Motors always have a higher initial current draw. Was there a load on the motor, if not then that could be the reason the breaker didn't trip. If there is a load on the motor the initial current draw would be higher because it has to overcome both the internal resistance (magnetic field) and external resistance (the load).
Windlass suddenly tripping main breaker
- Thread starter skunther
- Start date
Here is a guess...
In your search for the problem, you fixed it.
Moving wires , loose contacts, etc.
Now you have the tools to find it, if it repeats.
You might look for evidence of melted insulation or blacken Electric Arcs marks, on the wires.
Jim...
This situation you are describing is the written about in the “Professional Boatbuilder“ Magazine. Issue No. 187, October/November 2020. The articles name is “ Multimeter Essentials”, page 54 -67 but describes a windlass problem you have.
See if you can get a copy of it on line or through them, if possible.
If not, I have the issue and would gladly send you copies of the pages for you to read.
Interesting and informative reading with or without the problem.
See if you can get a copy of it on line or through them, if possible.
If not, I have the issue and would gladly send you copies of the pages for you to read.
Interesting and informative reading with or without the problem.
I ran it both unloaded, then briefly while loaded (with the anchor against the roller, trying to free the seized clutch plates from the gypsy. No luck, but that is another issue). Neither tripped the breaker, though it seems it definitely should have when loaded, as it was previously tripping instantly without any load.
I removed the windlass, and it appears pretty abused and neglected. The positive wire is fairly corroded for what appears to be the full length. The wires are not tinned. Corrosion on the motor brush connectors seized them under the caps, and they do not eject. The motor boot seemed to catch water and mud, packing it against the brush caps and fasteners for probably over a decade. The Allen bolts are so seized I can’t remove the gearbox to inspect it. I have put T9 penetrating oil on them in the hopes I’ll be able to remove them and see what’s going on inside. My instincts are that the motor is toast though the gear box may be salvageable. I’m not sure if it’s worth trying to resuscitate this windlass or if I’m better off just buying a new Lewmar VX1 for $800.
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I found a worm drive motor and gearbox combo from a V2 for a decent price. Could I swap the motor and gearbox combo, or even just the motor with mine? Or are they incompatible?
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Professional BoatBuilder #187 October/November 2020
On the cover: Joni Blanchard, an independent yacht finisher in Port Townsend, Washington, tapes the boot stripe of Nevermore, a cedar-planked Howard Chapelle–designed schooner, before applying a coat of varnish. She has been looking after this boat for more than two decades.
www.woodenboatstore.com
When I went looking , I considered the specs, read the reviews on Practical Sailor, and the size of anchoring system I would need for my 35ft 15,000 lb displacement boat. This led me to buy the V3 Lewmar.
There are a lot of similarities among the V 1-3 systems. Not sure of the exact compatibility. I would check the bolt pattern as different sizes often have different torque and backing plate requirements.
There are a lot of similarities among the V 1-3 systems. Not sure of the exact compatibility. I would check the bolt pattern as different sizes often have different torque and backing plate requirements.
I'm going to pick up a new windlass. This one seems to be at the end of its serviceable lifespan.
After removing the windlass and seeing the motor in terrible shape, as well as other issues (seized clutch, broken mounting bolts on cover plate, etc), I bit the bullet and replaced the windlass with a Lewmar V2. 90amp breaker instead of a 70amp. Uses the same gauge cable. Powered it on after the install and it worked.
But today we took her out for a spin, and at our anchorage, the same problem arose. The House breaker on the DC parallel panel again trips immediately upon operating the windlass. I’m back to square one.
The problem is obviously not the windlass or the Contactor. What could possibly be causing this breaker to trip now every time I use the windlass? The weird part is that it isn’t consistent. The windlass worked fine when I tested it at at the dock. Suddenly, when I get to anchorage; it decides to trip the house breaker again each time.
How do I troubleshoot and address this issue? Is there any way to confirm that the house breaker hasn’t gone bad?
Once again, (post #24) the windlass SHOULD NOT be passing through that breaker, at all!!! That breaker is NOT designed for large motor starting loads and should NOT be in the windlass path.. Below is how it should be wired.
Battery > House Bank Battery Fuse > Battery Switch > Dedicated Windlass Breaker > Windlass
Here's why:
C-Series Breaker: Not designed to handle motor in-rush!!
285 Series Breaker: Better designed to handle motor in-rush!!
The main DC breaker (type C-series) IS THE PROBLEM.... The windlass should never pass through that type of breaker... See two posts above....
If you look at his diagram on his post #56, there is a remote switch that should be powered by his original DC Panel.
For my clarity of thinking there are 2- DC Breakers.
1) Original Panel DC Breaker or lets call it OB
2) The Parallel Panel DC Breaker by Blue Seas or lets call it PP.
Also noted, it works great when not at anchorage.
So there has to be a cross connection somewhere.
This leads me to the Battery Charger or Shore Power vs Anchorage.
I suspect the PP breaker is the issue as @Maine Sail noted.
Jim...
For my clarity of thinking there are 2- DC Breakers.
1) Original Panel DC Breaker or lets call it OB
2) The Parallel Panel DC Breaker by Blue Seas or lets call it PP.
Also noted, it works great when not at anchorage.
So there has to be a cross connection somewhere.
This leads me to the Battery Charger or Shore Power vs Anchorage.
I suspect the PP breaker is the issue as @Maine Sail noted.
Jim...
As I have read it, the breaker that is tripping is the one in house battery switch panel. This is a 100A C-Series breaker (per the OP). I believe the breaker that is tripping is top left of the grey colored Blue Sea panel labeled HOUSE.. A windlass or any other large DC motor CANNOT pass through a breaker such as this.
C-Series breakers should never be used for large DC motor loads with big in-rush draws. The trip-delay curves I posted above show exactly why.
Even 1kW DC motor can pull upwards of 400A just to start turning. A 285-Series breaker is better designed to handle in-rush loads such as a windlass.
Thank you. It seems the wiring is as you describe, but instead of a fuse there is the Blue Sea 100amp C Series breaker corresponding to the Trip Delay Curve chart you linked. Are you suggesting I change out the C Series breaker for an equivalent 100amp 285 Series breaker?Once again, (post #24) the windlass SHOULD NOT be passing through that breaker, at all!!! That breaker is NOT designed for large motor starting loads and should NOT be in the windlass path.. Below is how it should be wired.
Battery > House Bank Battery Fuse > Battery Switch > Dedicated Windlass Breaker > Windlass
Here's why:
C-Series Breaker: Not designed to handle motor in-rush!!
285 Series Breaker: Better designed to handle motor in-rush!!
No, not at all. The fuse needs to be within 7" of the battery bank and it needs to have an AIC rating to match your battery bank. 285 Series breakers only have an AIC of 3000A. A single G-31 AGM can throw 5000A into a dead short and can physically weld a breaker shut. An MRBF, ANL or Class T fuse should be the main bank protection at the bank..
Here is the electrical diagram for the new and installed Lewmar V2 windlass. Everything is wired according to the diagram (Contactor setup), with the exception of the battery isolator. The windlass is currently wired: Windlass>Bus>isolator switch>100amp breaker>battery + terminal.
This is correct.As I have read it, the breaker that is tripping is the one in house battery switch panel. This is a 100A C-Series breaker (per the OP). I believe the breaker that is tripping is top left of the grey colored Blue Sea panel labeled HOUSE.. A windlass or any other large DC motor CANNOT pass through a breaker such as this.
If you are not suggesting I install a 285 to replace the C Series, and there is not currently a fuse between the House bank and the C Series, then what is my path forward? The wiring diagram calls for the windlass to be connected to the battery isolator (as it is currently wired), which puts it downstream from the C Series breaker. Am I to remove the C Series and replace it with a 285 while also installing a fuse within 7” of the House bank + terminal?
My house bank is four GC25 batteries wired to provide 470ah at 12v.