No worries. Was just curious. At over $5 per ft. didn't want to be too much over. Will wait and take some measurements at the boat.I will get back to you on that one
No worries. Was just curious. At over $5 per ft. didn't want to be too much over. Will wait and take some measurements at the boat.I will get back to you on that one
Hi Scott,No worries. Was just curious. At over $5 per ft. didn't want to be too much over. Will wait and take some measurements at the boat.
Hi Scott,
Did you get this figured out? I realized I did not get back to as quick as I said I would.
From the battery to the breaker I used 5'
from the breaker to the solenoid I used 25'
Solenoid to neutral bus bar 25'
Solenoid to motor 2' x 2 .
BTW,
I am rethinking the rocker switch at the helm. I have found that when I use the windlass to bring in the chain I have to continuously feed the chain into the anchor locker. If I am not feeding chain then the windlass will only bring in about 10' before the chain bunches up and locks up the windlass. If I'm not feeding the chain then I am hosing off mud and weeds. This weekend I must have removed a hundred pound of weeds from the chain. I know it was heavy because the windlass stopped working until I removed them! Anyway point being, somebody needs to be at the bow when raising the anchor hence on my boat at least the rocker switch at the helm would be redundant. If I had a different anchor locker where the chain had a higher free fall and didn't bunch up then yes I could see a use for it. I am toying around with the idea of installing some type of roller to try to manipulate the chain further forward. My chain is galvanized. Starting to wish i had spent the extra $ on stainless steel.
I brought up a huge mud ball a couple of weeks ago. It was almost like wet concrete just before it set hard. The windlass handled it no problem. The weeds though were tangled around the chain and got bunched up on the roller. The chain couldn't pass through they were that tight.Thanks for the lengths. That's roughly what I figured. I haven't picked up the windlass yet, will be this weeks project. The one I bought has the helm switch, so I also ordered the wireless control. I've read about the bunching issues so figured I'd need to be at the bow and also return tot he helm for control when I'm solo. The wireless was $300, and 2 foot switches for the bow would have been over $200 so went wireless for full convenience. I'll let you know how the install goes.
I typically bring up a big mud ball, so hoping the windlass will handle as has been the main reason for getting one. Wore me out big time this past weekend when we moved / relocated 3 times.
Do you have any pictures of your set up? Got mine installed and it jams and the gypsy stops spinning ut the motor and cap keep going. Even with tension off all together it stops turning.I brought up a huge mud ball a couple of weeks ago. It was almost like wet concrete just before it set hard. The windlass handled it no problem. The weeds though were tangled around the chain and got bunched up on the roller. The chain couldn't pass through they were that tight.
Hi ScottDo you have any pictures of your set up? Got mine installed and it jams and the gypsy stops spinning ut the motor and cap keep going. Even with tension off all together it stops turning.
View attachment 169143
Nope. Won't pull unless Im pulling on the chain both side. Tightened down the cap with the wrench but the cap will spin fire of the gypsy.Hi Scott,
How did you make out? Hope everything is now working.
Hmmm. Yeah never thought of that one. Was just using the plastic one but seemed tight but maybe not tight enough.Sorry to hear that. I found the wrench that they provided to be useless. I use a spare winch handle to crank it way down.
Sorry to hear that. I found the wrench that they provided to be useless. I use a spare winch handle to crank it way down.
You can splice your rope to the chain and it goes through fine although I just pull the rope just during to the transition to get the chain to drop and feed into the locker without bunching up.
Jeff
The splice is paretially visible in my pic above. I beieve it was done correctly and taperes, it's just thicker due to the splice itself.Scott B could it be that the splice may need some attention. Not all splices are created equal. I know that I have had to pull a splice or cut a splice out and redo to get it to lay down correctly. Sometimes in a hurry the splice is not properly tapered. So it comes out looking like the Hunchback of Notre Dame. Redoing the splice with a proper taper may just solve the issue.
Glad to hear it Scott.Ok, so that finally worked. Used the big handle and cranked down hard and worked great. Thanks !!!!
Just have to figure out now how to get the rope /chain splice through. May end up adding more chain and skip the rope altogether.