Call these guys
ruddercraft.com
I had one of their rudders on a Balboa 26. The lift from the foil shape really helped and you don't drag your rudder as much. ... equals faster sailing.
Rudder Craft | Custom Rudder and Tillers
ruddercraft.com
I had one of their rudders on a Balboa 26. The lift from the foil shape really helped and you don't drag your rudder as much. ... equals faster sailing.
If it's warped because it was exposed to rain and sun on only one side, you might be able to fix it by adding moisture (hot sponges perhaps) to the concave side. If that works, you would want to clamp it straight with cauls and let it dry, then refinish it.
If you are not concerned with preserving the look, you could flatten the sides with that router table and add fiberglass to build it back up.
If you are making a new one, mahogany would be standard but expensive. Waterproof plywood would work, but not look as nice.
If you are not concerned with preserving the look, you could flatten the sides with that router table and add fiberglass to build it back up.
If you are making a new one, mahogany would be standard but expensive. Waterproof plywood would work, but not look as nice.
Thanks! Not too concerned with appearance. It was exposed to sun and rain by previous owner. I will protect the wood parts and sails from this point forward.
What sealant/paint is recommended?
If you are vanishing, get a good brand like Epifanes or Mccloskey, the less expensive Minwax spar doesn't really do very well for such high exposure purposes. I've lately tried the Rust-oleum spar based on some others advice but haven't had it long enough to decide how well it lasts.
As for paint, I'm not sure. I expect the normal two part paint that is great on fiberglass might be too brittle on a solid wood rudder, you need something that going to flex with the wood. Check out what Jamestown Distributors recommends, they have a lot of products intended for wood.
THANK YOU! I have yet to closely examine the daggerboard. Had to make a new tiller, so the rudder was first.
Just shopping for wood in case I need to make a rudder. Cannot find anything suitable that is 1 inch thick, actual. Everything is 1 inch dimensional = 3/4 inch. What I have is actual 1 inch - that is the space available in the bracket that holds the top of the rudder.
1) You could, of course, fudge it. Make it out of 3/4 (actual) plus some thin straps or veneer or whatever to build out where the tiller is.
2) You could also find a lumber yard or wood working store that sells "four quarter" aka 4/4 (1 inch actual). You can find it online as well. This will normally be rough cut, so you will lose some to finishing.
3) You can rip up the planks and build a strip laminate. That would look beautiful and would be better at resisting warping.
Depends on how much work you want to put in to it.
2) You could also find a lumber yard or wood working store that sells "four quarter" aka 4/4 (1 inch actual). You can find it online as well. This will normally be rough cut, so you will lose some to finishing.
3) You can rip up the planks and build a strip laminate. That would look beautiful and would be better at resisting warping.
Depends on how much work you want to put in to it.
I found a nice article showing how to do option 3. If I keep the wood parts protected while the boat is on the trailer, warpage should not be a problem, should it?
Yes, warping should not be a problem if you do a laminate. You alternate the strips so that each strip warps in the opposite direction, canceling each other out. They also look great, especially if you use two different types of wood. Mahogany or teak paired with holly, maple, or cedar are traditional, but for your rudder pretty much any wood that appeals to you will be fine. If you can only go to a big box store, they will have red oak and maple boards which would look great together.