I’m noticing that the furler on our 1993 Hunter is a bit tight when we are trying to furl under relatively moderate winds (above 17 to 20kn), and at times at lower winds, there will be a tight point as if it’s snagging and then it will come in, though it seems it could come in easier. The line is run fair. The furling drum seems to twist well by hand when inspecting it without the jib deployed. Is there anything I might want to do to give it a tuneup?
Tight furler
- Thread starter skunther
- Start date
It helps to round up into the wind so there's less load on the sail. Does your drum spin freely? Do you have a jib or a genoa? What model is your furler? What size line are you using? Did you remove any core from the line? How full does your spool get when you have full sail out? If you pull the line directly out of the furler, without the line going through blocks, is it any easier?
I roll up the jib while going downwind and the main blankets the jib. This takes the load off of the jib and it rolls up easily. Try that way.
Also check the distance on the top of the furler and where the jib halyard enters the mast. It should be no more than 6". If it is too long you will get halyard wrap.
Also check the distance on the top of the furler and where the jib halyard enters the mast. It should be no more than 6". If it is too long you will get halyard wrap.
jssailem
SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
- Oct 22, 2014
- 22,809
You may have a slack forestay. If the forestay has a lot of play this can cause the extrusion to be out of column and create friction.
So can I check the tension of the backstage to confirm this? How would I check the forestry tension. I can see some catenary in the forestay, so this may be an issue and make sense.
jssailem
SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
- Oct 22, 2014
- 22,809
If you adjust the back stay you tighten the forestay. It is the way adjustable backstays work. Adjustable backstays are great. Going up wind you tighten the backstay and sail closer to the wind. Down wind you ease the backstay and that helps to power up the foresail.
Hi Skunther
RE; I’m noticing that the furler on our 1993 Hunter is a bit tight when we are trying to furl under relatively moderate winds (above 17 to 20kn), and at times at lower winds, there will be a tight point as if it’s snagging and then it will come in, though it seems it could come in easier
Even an old furler that has been maintained should furl in reasonably easily.
If this a new(ish) situation, something has changed.
We still don't know what make and model of furler you have so hard to comment on bearings.
From the top.
1/ Halyard to top furler rotating fitting
2/ top furler rotating fitting
3/ Foils and foil connectors
4/ Drum
5/ Furling line.
1/ Project Mayhem has mentioned this. Usually if you get halyard wrap up top, it locks up and you have to unfurl to free.
Make sure halyard is tight, but not too tight. Loosen halyard and re-tighten. (You will do this when you remove the sail to check foil etc)
2/ How long since you have actually checked this fitting out?
If a while, it might be worth doing it now.
Haul down foresail, rotate the fitting and check for smooth movement and no bearing grind (refer to your manual for maintenance details)
3/ With sail removed sight up foil to check for bends or kinks. With binoculars try to visually inspect joints for loose attachment or mis-alignment.
As mentioned by John (JSSAILEM) a slack forestay can add resistance to the rotation of the foils. Check and adjust that.
4/ You have checked the rotation of the drum by hand, but that is different from the operating conditions with wind in the sail.
With the sail removed rotate the fitting and check for smooth movement and no bearing grind (refer to your manual for maintenance details)
5/ You say that the furling line is running cleanly. Just for fun, check the sheaves in the blocks the lead the furling line. (mine had groves in them and didn't rotate freely.)
All of these items are furler maintenance items.
Even if you think you have found the cause I would recommend going through the list and referring to the manual.
gary
RE; I’m noticing that the furler on our 1993 Hunter is a bit tight when we are trying to furl under relatively moderate winds (above 17 to 20kn), and at times at lower winds, there will be a tight point as if it’s snagging and then it will come in, though it seems it could come in easier
Even an old furler that has been maintained should furl in reasonably easily.
If this a new(ish) situation, something has changed.
We still don't know what make and model of furler you have so hard to comment on bearings.
From the top.
1/ Halyard to top furler rotating fitting
2/ top furler rotating fitting
3/ Foils and foil connectors
4/ Drum
5/ Furling line.
1/ Project Mayhem has mentioned this. Usually if you get halyard wrap up top, it locks up and you have to unfurl to free.
Make sure halyard is tight, but not too tight. Loosen halyard and re-tighten. (You will do this when you remove the sail to check foil etc)
2/ How long since you have actually checked this fitting out?
If a while, it might be worth doing it now.
Haul down foresail, rotate the fitting and check for smooth movement and no bearing grind (refer to your manual for maintenance details)
3/ With sail removed sight up foil to check for bends or kinks. With binoculars try to visually inspect joints for loose attachment or mis-alignment.
As mentioned by John (JSSAILEM) a slack forestay can add resistance to the rotation of the foils. Check and adjust that.
4/ You have checked the rotation of the drum by hand, but that is different from the operating conditions with wind in the sail.
With the sail removed rotate the fitting and check for smooth movement and no bearing grind (refer to your manual for maintenance details)
5/ You say that the furling line is running cleanly. Just for fun, check the sheaves in the blocks the lead the furling line. (mine had groves in them and didn't rotate freely.)
All of these items are furler maintenance items.
Even if you think you have found the cause I would recommend going through the list and referring to the manual.
gary
Last edited:
Do you have a Hood double line system? If so, the trouble could be the same as what we experienced with ours. See the article I wrote awhile ago that explained what I did to solve the problem.
Hunter 42 Owner Modifications and Upgrades
Hunter 42 Owner Modifications and Upgrades
hunter.sailboatowners.com
Please let us know if this helps solve your "tightness" problem.
I was exclusively referring to the line that goes around the drum. My last boat had a smaller Hood furler with a 150% genoa. The furler was undersized for my sail. As a result, too much line was on the drum and would jam against the metal housing. I removed the housing and the issue disappeared. The following year I modified the drum to accept more line. So long as the line was tied off when we weren't using it, it worked beautifully
As you can see by all of the suggestions above, there are many variables at play. Providing some more info and pics would help us help you
As you can see by all of the suggestions above, there are many variables at play. Providing some more info and pics would help us help you
I will pull the sail and check the top fitting, as well as foils and stay tension. I do notice some slight curve to the forestay, which seems would affect how easily the foils rotate. I assume I can only adjust the forestay tension by adjusting the backstay, correct? There are only turnbuckles at the back, no pump unfortunately.
Where can I find the recommended rig tensions for a 1993 Hunter Legend 35.5?
I will go through the other items as well. I have already checked and lubricated all the sheaves involved.
Where can I find the recommended rig tensions for a 1993 Hunter Legend 35.5?
I will go through the other items as well. I have already checked and lubricated all the sheaves involved.
When you check the drum and upper swivel, you need to check it under tension because problems can show up sometimes only when the bearings are under load. To do this, drop the sail and then take a short length of line and tie a bowline loop in each end. Connect this line between the tack and head shackles and then pull tension on the halyard. You will also need to run a line from the halyard shackle back to the mast to prevent the upper half of the swivel from turning and wrapping the halyard around the forestay. Once you have the system under tension, turn the drum to see how it rotates. then turn the top swivel and look for tight spots.
jssailem
SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
- Oct 22, 2014
- 22,809
When I refitted my mast I had the rigger add this backstay adjuster.
marine.wichard.com
Simple mechanical mechanism. Serves the needs of my boat.
Backstay adjuster - With wheel - For 5/6/7 wire - Dia pin 12 mm | Wichard Marine
The article Backstay adjuster - With wheel - For 5/6/7 wire - Dia pin 12 mm is on the Wichard Marine website! Discover all our @category and all our product ranges.
marine.wichard.com
Simple mechanical mechanism. Serves the needs of my boat.
Top swivel is fine. Drum swivel feels kinky every revolution, and again 90° further (call it at 270° and 90°).
Forestay does seem slightly slack (see picture). I will adjust the tension of the backstay and shrouds per the rigging specs and test the furler again.
Forestay does seem slightly slack (see picture). I will adjust the tension of the backstay and shrouds per the rigging specs and test the furler again.
Attachments
We still don't know what make and model or furler you have.
There idiosyncrasies with each type.
Maybe some one on here will be familiar with your furler.
The bend or cantanary in the forestay doesn't look too bad, but hard to say from a photograph.
I am not sure but I think 7/8 rigs have a slightly slacker forestay.
Again some one with more knowledge should be along soon.
gara
There idiosyncrasies with each type.
Maybe some one on here will be familiar with your furler.
The bend or cantanary in the forestay doesn't look too bad, but hard to say from a photograph.
I am not sure but I think 7/8 rigs have a slightly slacker forestay.
Again some one with more knowledge should be along soon.
gara
Here are some pix of the drum. I’m unable to find any Identifying markings on it. I believe it’s a Hood Seafurl. It is below deck (as were the Hunters of this vintage).
Attachments
Last edited:
Here is a short video of the “sticking” of the furler when turned by hand, sail removed, drum almost empty.
Last edited:
I think that part of your problem is a loose wrap of the furling line. When you let the sail out, you should hold tension on the furling line so that you get a tight wrap on the drum. If you let that line run free, it will wrap loosely like in your photo and then when you pull on the line, the last wrap slips down into the gap and then the other wraps tighten down on top of it. I have seen this problem completely lock a drum so that it could not be turned in or out even by rotating the foil by hand.
When I let the sail out, I keep at least a 90º hitch on a cleat to create some friction to hold the line in tension and then it wraps up as pretty as cable on a crane's winch drum.
When I let the sail out, I keep at least a 90º hitch on a cleat to create some friction to hold the line in tension and then it wraps up as pretty as cable on a crane's winch drum.
If I am seeing this correctly, your torque tube is rotating inside of the drum and that should not happen. There should be either two or four set screws that attach to the drum and fit into holes in the torque tube that make the two turn as one. It would appear that they have broken or backed out.
Last edited:
Here is a link to the Hood Seafurler manual. Since you have the sail off, I would recommend disassembling the drive unit and checking the four drum set screws, item 11 on page 16.