Tight furler

[Hayden Watson]

@Project_Mayhem, where did you source part #3: 1/4-20x3/8 screw in SS from? My local, and very well stocked, very extensive hardware store does not have anything short enough.

Also, my drum appears to be well set to the turnbuckle tube. I think what you’re seeing is the Swivel Top (part 9 in the diagram) free spin on its bearings.

Speaking of bearings - do I risk a bunch falling out when I lift the unit to inspect the turnbuckle?

That is a nylon screw. You can cut a longer one to length.

 

[Hayden Watson]

I was thinking a belt and suspenders approach. You go to release the furler, and something hidden lets loose.

These old hood furlers systems slide over the head stay and are completely independent from them. He should be able to slide the full drum assembly up over the foil after removing parts # 1, 2 & 3. The only time he would need to release the headstay would be if he needs to take any of the parts off the stay.

 

[skunther]

I managed to remove the vinyl screw and pull the tack sockets. The lowest extrusion is cracked where they sit. It does seem a weak point in the design of this system as the turnbuckle tube is centered at the bottom by the centering ring, and at the top it seems to rely on tha lowest extrusion, which is already structurally compromised by the holes drilled into it for the tack sockets and screw (where the crack is).

Regardless, it seems this is what needs fixing. Any input on where I can pick up a lower luff extrusion for a Seafurl 800?

 

[skunther]

I also found this broken part at the top of the turnbuckle, which doesn’t seem to be in the parts chart.

Is this integral to the operation/safety of the furler?

 

[Hayden Watson]

I managed to remove the vinyl screw and pull the tack sockets. The lowest extrusion is cracked where they sit. It does seem a weak point in the design of this system as the turnbuckle tube is centered at the bottom by the centering ring, and at the top it seems to rely on tha lowest extrusion, which is already structurally compromised by the holes drilled into it for the tack sockets and screw (where the crack is).

Regardless, it seems this is what needs fixing. Any input on where I can pick up a lower luff extrusion for a Seafurl 800?

I had the same type of cracking on my Hood 810. I took it to a welding shop and they tig welded it and I then used a file to clean it back down to flush with the original surface. That was about 20-years ago and that furler is still in use by a guy I sold it to down in Long Beach.

 

[Hayden Watson]

I also found this broken part at the top of the turnbuckle, which doesn’t seem to be in the parts chart.

Is this integral to the operation/safety of the furler?

That is one of the luff bearings. There is one on top of each foil joint sitting on top of the splice pieces plus the one that sits on top of the drum assembly that you found. The keep the foil centered on the forestay.

 

[skunther]

Fits in there like a charm. Seems maybe it wasn’t installed properly and that may be why the whole thing was shifting. Now I’m wondering if there’s a way to get these fused decapitated nylon screws out of the drum gate so I can secure it properly to the drum and stop the chaff that’s happening.