Sanitation Hose

[Suncatcher]

On the Sabre 30 I used to own, there was an unvented loop in the hose between the head and holding tank. When I replaced the hose and rerouted the inlet, I did not put the loop in nor add a vented loop. The inlet was located in a position that would minimize the chances of waste flowing back into the hose when heeled.

There were no issues that I found with this arrangement. The key is to limit the chances of the waste flowing back into the hose and then siphoning into the head. The vented loop breaks the siphon. Depending on your boat this may or may not be an option. The advantage to the shorter hose is less water is necessary to flush.

How do you ''minimize the chances of waste flowing back'' without a loop or vent?
To ''limit the chances of the waste flowing back'' is it necessary to copy the arrangement I have now in the boat? The only way I can put a loop above the holding tank inlet (without the hose showing) is by coping the present route.

 

[dlochner]

I relocated the inlet from the side to the top of the tank and moved it towards the center of the tank. You may not be able to do this on your tank. If that is the case, then continue using the vented loop.

 

[Peggie Hall HeadMistress]

Do I need to copy this path or just can I just have the hose go from the toilet directly to the holding tank?

If it's an uphill run to the tank, a loop--not necessarily vented, just a loop 'cuz no siphon break is needed here--immediately after the toilet (aim a 90 degree discharge fitting straight up) that's just a little higher than the tank is a good idea 'cuz not only will it prevent runback, but you only have to flush long enough to get bowl contents over the top of the loop...gravity will take it the rest of the way to the tank. The dry mode should easily push it over the loop...switch to wet to rinse the hose behind the flush. Saves a lot of pumping and you don't fill up your tank as fast.

 

[Suncatcher]

Thanks to all for your feedback. I'll be following up on your suggestion Peggie.

 

[Peggie Hall HeadMistress]

If you feel the need to brainstorm specifics one-on-one, feel free to give me a PM shout.

 

[Suncatcher]

I've removed the toilet. I see that there are bolts that come up from the floor to attach to the toilet.
I haven't got my new toilet yet but likely the footprint of the new one won't be like the old one...and anyway one of the bolts broke (rusted). The problem is that I can't get under the floor to inset new bolts. Any suggestions?

 

[Peggie Hall HeadMistress]

The mounting bolts don't come UP from anywhere...all toilets are installed using lag bolts...no nuts needed. Drill the right size holes where you need them, set the toilet down and insert the bolts through the holes in the toilet base.
If you can't get the rusted bolt out leave it where it is...put a fiberglass or other filler patch over it to keep water out. If it shows, a little touch up paint on it...if you're lucky the new toilet will cover it.

 

[Suncatcher]

Well that's excellent news!
I guess the procedure fortunately changed since 1982 because the bolts came up and I had to take the nuts off to remove the toilet.
Thx

 

[mz4wheeler]

I just installed a new head and used flexible PVC. Somewhere I read that it was good for sanitation hose. Our RV has PVC so I was thinking that is OK. Sure hope I did not make a mistake.

Uugh... Made that same mistake, because the previous owner used hose from HomeDepot (which stunk!!), so I just duplicated the same insanity!! I finally came to my senses and installed marine grade sanitation hoses, and now zero stink, even after 1 year.

 

[Suncatcher]

I got that message from Peggie's book...got Trident hose (couldn't get Raritan locally)... cost more than the toilet but don't want to go through this again for a long time

 

[dlochner]

There is an article in the current issue of Good Old Boat by Drew Frye (aka Thinwater) on head odors. The article identifies the strengths and weaknesses of the various sanitation hoses on the market. He assessment is based on research he did for Practical Sailor.

 

[jibes138]

Well that's excellent news!
I guess the procedure fortunately changed since 1982 because the bolts came up and I had to take the nuts off to remove the toilet.
Thx

They make a "screw" that looks like a lag bolt thread on one end and a stud on the other end. Is it possible these were used on your boat? Put two nuts on the stud and tighten them hard together. Then put a wrench on just the bottom nut and see if it will unscrew. If yes and it is what I mention you should be in good shape to replace them. If not you will need a different approach. It seems odd that it would be a standard bolt as what stops the bolt from turning underneath when you are trying to remove the nut on the top of the toilet flange or from the bolt falling out once the nuts are removed?

 

[dlochner]

They make a "screw" that looks like a lag bolt thread on one end and a stud on the other end.

They are called Hanger Bolts. https://www.mcmaster.com/#hanger-bolts/=186ys8s

 

[Suncatcher]

I'm guessing that the bolts' heads were epoxied in under the floor (?) However it's moot now...the holes for the new toilet are in different locations. So the old bolts were cut and grinded off. I will be using lag bolts as previously suggested. Right now I'm wrestling with the Titan 101 hose...stiff compared to the old hose. Holes need to be made slightly larger to get the new hose through. Also I thought I was being smart by laying the old hose next to the new hose when cutting it to length only to find it was too short. I think the difference is that the old hose could make turns at a sharper radius. At $15 CDN a foot (here in Ontario Canada) it can be an expensive mistake. FYI I priced the Ranitan SaniFlex...$25 CDN a foot...too rich for my blood but likely would have made the job easier.

 

[Suncatcher]

Thx for the hanger bolt suggestion. If the lag bolt doesn't hold properly I'll try them. I'm optimistic about the lag bolts .

 

[Peggie Hall HeadMistress]

I will be using lag bolts as previously suggested.

Use the bolts that are supplied with the new toilet and follow the installation instructions.

If/when you want to buy US products in the future, you should be able to save quite a bit, if only on the outrageous international shipping charges and "customs brokerage" fees that Canadian vendors have to pay too--and get stuff a lot faster too--if you can have your orders shipped to a US address, which are readily available and very inexpensive at Mailboxes etc (not just for postal shipments, Fedex and UPS too, including anything that needs a signature) and similar places in most cities and towns. Watertown NY, which looks like the closest, is only a 2 hr drive from Belleville. You'd still have to declare your purchases at the border, and it wouldn't help with the rate of exchange, but the difference is shipping charges should offset that quite a bit 'cuz Canadian retailers have to factor them into their pricing. I've known a number of Canadian boat owners who went together on a "mailbox" rental and took turns going over to collect their purchases.

 

[Suncatcher]

The Jabsco doesn't supply fasteners.

 

[Peggie Hall HeadMistress]

I'm 99% certain Raritan does.

 

[Suncatcher]

At 2.5 times the price of the Jabsco those would be expensive fasteners .

 

[Peggie Hall HeadMistress]

Oooops...should have checked before posting...
Additional Parts Required
• our stainless steel mounting bolts or lag screws
(minimum F1/4" [6mm]) and washers

But note that it does say "our" bolts and washers, so get them from Raritan or a servicing dealer if there is one near you.