Sander / Paint removal gut check...

agprice22 · Jun 15, 2016

As for lifting a 19 ft boat, build a cradle for the stern. Lower the trailer tongue to the ground to raise the stern high as you can. Slide the cradle under the stern as far as you can. Raise the tongue on the trailer jack, and the boat will lift right off the trailer, suspended between the bow roller and the cradle.
You can make the cradle from a sheet of plywood cut to the form of the stern and built into a stand. Lots of ways to do it.
Before I had a cradle, I used an engine hoist / crane at the stern with a towing strap looped forward around the keel (C22 swing keel). Raise the hoist and lift the hull off the trailer from the stern with the bow resting on the roller.
You could use a floor jack with some blocks of wood too. In that case, raise the tongue as high as you can to lower the stern to the floor jack. Brace the stern with blocks of wood, raise the jack to lift the boat off the trailer, suspending it between bow roller and floor jack.
You could use the hoist on a boat up to 22 ft with shoal draft. You could use a cradle on a larger boat, but again with shoal draft.
Also, if you are gonna trailer sail this boat, you don't need bottom paint.

CloudDiver · Jun 16, 2016

I don't get what you are talking about wit the trailer? Does it need to be painted? Maybe... but worry about the boat first.
You should only be sanding below the waterline (boot stripe). If you sanded above that line, you shot yourself in the foot.
BELOW the waterline, when you are done sanding, you only need TWO paints;
1. Interlux Interprotect 2000. This is an epoxy barrier coat, it seals everything and is also the primer for the bottom paint.
2. Bottom Paint. Your antifoul paint, ablative is only one type of several you can use. If your boat stays in the water for more than weekend at a time, anti-foul paint is a good idea. If you are a trailer sailor every time, meaning you ALWAYS haul the boat out on the trailer after only a day or no more than three in the water, you DO NOT need an antifoul paint! You can use regular glossy 'topsides' paint which will be slick and make you faster. You need to do your research on antifoul paint if you decide to use it. If you decide you still need anti-foul paint, but you will still haul the boat on the trailer sometimes, you need to know that some types of anti-foul paint will break down in open air and become ineffective. Some anti-foul paints are 'soft', they rub off easily so are not suitable for trailerable boats. I picked an anti-foul paint that does not break down in oxygen and is also tough enough for trailer bunks, Interlux CF (copper free). For racing, there are anti-foul paints that can be 'burnished', basically take a steel putty knife and rub over the surface (hard) of the dried paint... it gives it a somewhat glossy and slick surface. This job is a royal pain in the butt and has to be repeated since the antifoul paint sloughs off and looses its slickness after a few races.

That's all you need below the boot stripe.... If you sanded above that line, then you'll have to paint that too. There are numerous paints and primers you can use but that's a whole different beast. Get the bottom done and get her back on the trailer, then you can work on other stuff later.

BTW, if your trailer needs to be painted, take it to a professional and have it sand blasted and sprayed with an epoxy primer. trust me, the work and time involved in cleaning up and painting a trailer isn't worth it. JMO

Sunbird22358 · Jun 16, 2016

Unless she has been modified, your boat does not have a dagger board. However, she does have a CENTERBOARD and there is no "pivot bolt" per se, the O'DAY 19 has the same setup as other O'DAY centerboard and Keel/Centerboard boats at the time had, the CB pivots on a hard plastic (Nylon?) pin, about 3/4"-7/8" In diameter, and the pin is held into the boat by a pair of fiberglass wedges inserted from under the boat and held in by 2 stainless-steel plates, one on each side of the centerboard slot. The pate are held on by 2 stainless-steel screws each, there may also be a third screw In each plate that screws into the wedge. The pivot pins are pretty durable, but if it is worn, a new one can be purchased from D&R Marine (www.drmarine.com ). I'll include a drawing of the basic assembly below (it is labeled DSII, but 19 is basically the same, and I actually got the drawing from a 222 owner) and a few pics of the O'DAY 19 CB slot with the centerboard removed.
Minor Terminology: Daggerboard usually housed In a vertical trunk and is moved vertical up and down like a knife In a sheath to adjust depth. Centerboard is the general term for an fin that can be raised/lowered allowing variation in depth, also changes balance of center of resistance to leeway In relation to center of sail area. A Centerboard, often called a "swing centerboard" if it pivots fore and aft as it is raised/lowered, usually retracts like a jackknife being closed/opened. Usually a Centerboard pivots up and down, a daggerboard slides up and down and can often be completely removed right out the top of it's trunk.
Now to REALLY confuse you! A daggerboard is technically a type of centerboard (that retracts vertically in the trunk), the old every square is a rectangle, but a rectangle isn't always a square. Tomato vs Tomaato.....

agprice22 · Jun 22, 2016

For the cradle:
Drop the tongue of your trailer as low as possible.
Climb forward from under the stern of your boat a few feet.
Measure from the ground up to the center of the bottom
Measure from the ground up off the center about 2 ft.
Make a cradle that fits those measurements.
Slide it forward under the stern til it contacts the bottom. Put some carpet to protect the bottom and blocks to shim any gaps.
Raise the trailer tongue til the boat is suspended between the bow roller of the trailer and the cradle far enough off the trailer to do your work.
Here is a photo:

Meriachee · Jun 23, 2016

If you're going to apply barrier coat, you must remove all the old paint. What that statement doesn't say, is that if you use an 80 grit in an orbital sander, you can get down to gelcoat and the "old blue" will still be there, as the dust will get into the sanded areas and appear to still be on the hull, when in fact it's just dust. Most gelcoat is not inches thick, so attempting to get the gel really clean with the sander is a recipe for disaster most likely.
You might consider one coat of barrier when the old paint is off, and if the boat is strictly trailer sailed, don't even bother with ablative because the boat won't be in the water, unused, for extended periods of time.

Meriachee · Jul 6, 2016

Yep. 40 is quite probably too aggressive. I used 60 this spring, and got about 2-3 sq ft per disk, went through 3 100-packs, 2 sanders and I didn't keep track of how many cartridges for the respirator.
It looked like this, more or less for 4 weeks.

Ward H · Jul 7, 2016

Having the yard media blast the bottom instead of me scrapping or sanding was one of the best spends I made. If I had to sand or scrap the bottom I never would have gotten in the water the first year.

Justin_NSA · Jul 8, 2016

Brett C said:
I did buy a sanding disk that drops in a drill. Much better than a random orbital. Hopefully quicker.
QUOTE]
You may not like the results of the circular action. Be careful. And lighten up on the grit. You probably shouldn't be more aggressive than 80.

Meriachee · Jul 8, 2016

Brett C said:
I did buy a sanding disk that drops in a drill.

This won't end well. It's not a job that can be "hurried up", it's dirty, messy and takes time. attacking it with harsher tools will lead you to a big patch of gelcoat removed from the bottom that will be an order of magnitude harder to repair. All you want to do is remove the old paint. The gelcoat may not be much thicker than the old paint, and once removed, the fiberglass is exposed.
Your boat, your choice. There are many people here who have done this job, and nobody ever came on here saying what fun it was.

agprice22 · Jul 8, 2016

I do not think you will like the results of using the disk sander. It will be more tiring, and it will wobble and make divots. Also, the speed will be harder to control.
I think you will be happier with the orbital palm sander. You can use 40 grit. I used it on my boat. It had years of old paint, but I got through it. It is tiring, pressing upwards beneath the boat. Just press lightly, and use the vacuum attachment. Keep your eye on the bottom. When you see white, you are done.
Also, you do not have to smooth it out with 180 later. If you put Interlux 2000 barrier protectant on the bottom, it will come out great. Mine did!

Justin_NSA · Jul 11, 2016

Can't argue with success! Good job. It will look great once it's done!

Meriachee · Jul 11, 2016

It will. The ip2000 wants an 80 grit finish. I found that to maybe be too aggressive, and offer that as what I saw. I would not deviate too far from the recommendations, as you've unquestionably experienced, this isn't a job you want to do very often.
Also, take the paint to a store and if it costs you $10 to get it shaken, it IS money well spent. The stuff is like runny peanut butter when mixed properly, and you cannot do it by hand.

Sander / Paint removal gut check...

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