Near Disaster
One part of the job I was most proud of was how I was able to epoxy in the SS Pin bushing and the seal it from both sides with a 'collar' of thickened epoxy. It all sounds well and good, but this process almost became a complete disaster.
I did not have a 1.25" tapered ream, those are big & expensive to use for just one job. At my local Industrial Over-stock Fastener & Supply place they had reams, but not that size and not tapered. Instead I picked up a huge 1.25" drill bit for $4. I welded up a small piece of 1/2" round bar to the end so I could chuck it up in my big drill. Long story short, the hole did not drill very well at all. It took forever and almost burned up my drill in the process and it was a H-D DeWalt 1/2" chuck, corded. (It spit grease all over me but it still works) The bit started well but didn't go through, so I also went at both sides with a 1.25" hole saw. That hole saw almost finished the job but it lost a few teeth in the process. I had to finish it up with a carbide tooth burr on my pneumatic die grinder. Needless to say, the hole was 'almost' completely jacked. It was in the correct position and roughly square to the centerline but just barley. Not enough to just epoxy the bushing in and walk away to let it cure. Basically I had to epoxy just the center part of the bushing, using the pin inserted to hold it square. Luckily there was a good portion of the center of the hole that was pretty much right on, so I was able to use light pressure of my finger to hold it square for about 15 minutes while the fast cure hardener kicked off.
Moral off the story... Use a tapered 1.25" Ream to open your Keel Pin hole! Don't try a 'cheaper' alternative! Don't buy the tool if you can avoid it, they are expensive... Borrow one if you can.
