Repairing Hunter 40 damage from Hurricane Matthew

May 8, 2013
629
Hunter 40 Dataw Island, SC
A side adventure and a lesson:

Hi guys - I spent a good chunk of the last few days helping out a friend with a small problem. Just three ceiling/overhead lights out. No biggy, right? Well, we're on day four and just now buttoning things up! (No worries, he's paying me in Captain Morgan so totally fair trade! :thumbup:)

He'd got a 2002 (or 01, or 03?) Tartan 36-ish, really nice boat, well taken care of and clean as a whistle. I have to say, based on what I've seen (and seen behind when I started taking things apart) well constructed and well thought out. For the most part. Now comes the rant!

During the diagnosis on the inop lights, obvious things like bad bulbs were ruled out straightaway and I proceeded to the wiring to check for bad connections, etc., and I checked the switches and fixtures as well. The light fixtures all tested good but eventually it was discovered that the + wire on all three was dead. Now comes the hard part. A thorough examination of the accessible wiring starting at the DC panel led - nowhere, and a query to Tartan to get a wiring diagram led - nowhere!

Next up, manually tracing the wiring. This led initially into the lazerettes (which I discovered I do NOT fit into - unfortunately after I slithered into them :yikes:) where once again the search led nowhere. It is extremely difficult to map out a wiring layout without having - the map of the wiring layout! Much headscratching at this point.

I then decided that the tiny hole Tartan drilled into the headliner for the wiring for each light was too small since I was now on Plan C - which involved the endoscope so I could visually see where the wires were going - so out came the Dremel to enlarge said holes. Afterward, eureka! On one light I found a broken connector! A quick repair and light #1 fixed. Progress :).

Remaining two lights, no such luck. And here's where my rant comes in, and it's not a true rant, more of a rage against a necessity inherent to boats. To have overhead lights one must run wiring along, into, through or somewhere in the vicinity of the overhead. And since modern boats usually have molded headliners, that means the wiring is trapped between the liner and the deck. And thus, inaccessible. :banghead:. :poop:. And that became the problem. Compounded by (how I finally discovered) the manufacturer decided to run the wiring.

Leaving out how I finally discovered this, the overhead wiring split off after the breaker and busbar into a single + and - feed for each side, port and starboard. Sandwiched of course between the headliner and deck. At every overhead light, the feed wire was cut and a Y was made with a branch wire and a butt connector. So here we have multiple failure points compounded by the fact that none of the connections had heat shrink or was weather-proofed in any way. And of course, the camera confirmed for me that each of these Y-connections was too far from the access hole to get to and the wiring itself was too short to pull through the access hole. More :banghead:.

Final solution (agreed to by the owner who watched all of this unfold) was to fish a new wire between the two remaining inop lights and run a new + from a good cabin light source around, behind and through various bits of cabinetry to one of the fixtures, leaving a few inches of exposed wire between the light and the cabinet. Luckily you have to know it's there to even see it. Connect everything up and - lights! Now to finish putting everything back together :(.

Now for the reason for this little sideways tale. A while back when I laid out my plan for the electrical system for my boat a few of you guys expressed doubts about why I wanted to do a distributed electrical panel system. In my mind, my idea was valid (for a few reasons but mostly) because it reduced the "bundling" effect the wiring has at the panel/breaker terminus. Which caused a major headache on the Tartan. The sheer volume of wiring behind the panel was mind-boggling!
My main panel will only have feed wires to each branch and each branch will have wires only to each switch or switch panel which will then branch to each end use.

Is this more complex to set up? Yes. Does it reduce the wiring amounts, lengths, etc? No. (Well, yes, sort of, but sort of no too ;)). Does it change the laws of electricity, physics and nutrition? Nope. But - and here's the but that in my mind makes me the hero - does it make repairing failures and faults easier? I say yes, yes, yes!

Another major departure from modern boat philosophy that I'm doing that will compound future ease of repairs is that, while I am hiding the wiring, I'm not burying it (and a massive amount of the wiring on the Tartan is buried)! I will have easy access to every inch of wire on the boat (even if I have to remove a panel or two to get to it) and my wire bundles will be much, much smaller, therefore easier to manage.

Ok, rant off, and back to regularly scheduled mayhem and chaos! And rant aside, I really was impressed with the Tartan.

Cheers,

Mark
 
May 8, 2013
629
Hunter 40 Dataw Island, SC
Working over my head:

With the mess somewhat under control and some of the errant parts & pieces re-installed I could start fixing up the headliner to get it ready for paint. First up was to cover up most everything I had just put back:





One spot on the headliner has bugged me for years:



Closer-up:



It looks suspiciously like a stress crack because I can't figure any other reason for a crack to be in this area. I broke out the grinder and found - you guessed it:



Another poor previous repair! The original problem was likely a stress crack or a gel-coat void. The repair was inevitably going to fail because you can't slop on a half-inch deep blob of the wrong type of filler. I'm so over griping about this - when I saw this I just sighed and fixed it correctly. Next up was to glass over the holes in the side of the liner and work on filling and smoothing it all out:



With that done, next up will be fresh paint on the headliner.

Cheers,

Mark
 
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Likes: Will Gilmore

Mikem

.
Dec 20, 2009
820
Hunter 466 Bremerton
Working over my head:

With the mess somewhat under control and some of the errant parts & pieces re-installed I could start fixing up the headliner to get it ready for paint. First up was to cover up most everything I had just put back:





One spot on the headliner has bugged me for years:



Closer-up:



It looks suspiciously like a stress crack because I can't figure any other reason for a crack to be in this area. I broke out the grinder and found - you guessed it:



Another poor previous repair! The original problem was likely a stress crack or a gel-coat void. The repair was inevitably going to fail because you can't slop on a half-inch deep blob of the wrong type of filler. I'm so over griping about this - when I saw this I just sighed and fixed it correctly. Next up was to glass over the holes in the side of the liner and work on filling and smoothing it all out:



With that done, next up will be fresh paint on the headliner.

Cheers,

Mark
What paint will you use and what prep work will you do?
 
May 8, 2013
629
Hunter 40 Dataw Island, SC
What paint will you use and what prep work will you do?
Prep for the overhead is just lots of cleaning to get any remaining dirt and grime off then sanding with 120 grit. The paint I'm using is Interlux Brightsides. It's a one part urethane, gives good coverage and (except for areas of filler) can go directly onto gelcoat without the need for primer. Usually two coats is plenty.
 

Mikem

.
Dec 20, 2009
820
Hunter 466 Bremerton
Prep for the overhead is just lots of cleaning to get any remaining dirt and grime off then sanding with 120 grit. The paint I'm using is Interlux Brightsides. It's a one part urethane, gives good coverage and (except for areas of filler) can go directly onto gelcoat without the need for primer. Usually two coats is plenty.
Thanks. I have used Brightsides before. Good product. I am so very impressed by your work and the outstanding documentation. Well done
 
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Likes: B757Captain
Apr 5, 2009
2,819
Catalina '88 C30 tr/bs Oak Harbor, WA
I used Brightsides to repaint the 1980's olive green hull of my first sailboat. It looked good and held up well as long as I owned the boat.

The next owner was not as careful as I had been, and it looked like crap after a year in his "care".
 
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Likes: B757Captain
May 8, 2013
629
Hunter 40 Dataw Island, SC
I used Brightsides to repaint the 1980's olive green hull of my first sailboat. It looked good and held up well as long as I owned the boat.

The next owner was not as careful as I had been, and it looked like crap after a year in his "care".
I did parts of my deck with the WM version of Brightsides and it has lasted for over ten years, though I will have to re-paint this summer. I have heard that the single part urethane's lifespan is about ten years or so and two-part urethanes can make it 15 to 20 years. the difference I have seen (opinion here :biggrin: only from personal observation!) is that single part paints will fade but eventually not look any worse than old, chalky gelcoat but when two part urethanes finally give up they look downright ghastly. On the other hand two part urethanes are much tougher, so that's the trade-off.
 
Last edited:
May 8, 2013
629
Hunter 40 Dataw Island, SC
Will spring weather make up its mind please!:

Its cold here!! Ok, only for a day or so but I have already gotten use to pleasant daytime temps. Its time for shorts!

In the meantime work continues. Where was I? Oh, yeah, painting the overhead:





And here's that repaired spot of the previously "repaired" spot:



I did the starboard side just like the port side a while back, Brightsides White + Hatteras White for the raised molding. Next was some cleanup and reassembly. Starboard cabinetry:





And reinstalling the portlight trim - after some cleanup:



Ok, I cleaned the trim, not the portlights themselves! :yikes:

And finishing some of the cupboard doors:



Next up - lots of work in the galley!

Cheers,

Mark
 
May 8, 2013
629
Hunter 40 Dataw Island, SC
Glorious, glorious spring!:

I had to un-winterize the air conditioner today! Of course, here, that actually means cleaning out the mud-dauber nest from the discharge thru-hull :biggrin:. Cooling water now flowing nicely and cool temps below! I looked through my pics waiting for the forum and I'm thinking I need to update a little more often - lots of work has been accomplished and I'm getting behind in documenting it!

I left off with re-assembling the various starboard side components so lets get back to that! Next up was to get the galley shelves and divider in:



I needed the shelves in so I could get the wiring run and galley breakers wired up:



It took me a little while to figure out the wiring requirements for the new style panels but now that I've got it down it goes pretty quickly. I still need to get a cover for the A/C panel since it's adjacent to the DC panel (ABYC stuff :)). Wired up an buttoned up, for now - I'm sure Ill be tearing into it two or three times still to come!



Continuing with buttoning up the galley, I finished insulating the a/c ducts:



When my wife saw this pic she commented that it looked like I stuffed an astronaut under the sink!

Next up, more work in the galley.

Cheers,

Mark
 
Jan 7, 2011
4,796
Oday 322 East Chicago, IN
Will spring weather make up its mind please!:

Its cold here!! Ok, only for a day or so but I have already gotten use to pleasant daytime temps. Its time for shorts!

In the meantime work continues. Where was I? Oh, yeah, painting the overhead:





And here's that repaired spot of the previously "repaired" spot:



I did the starboard side just like the port side a while back, Brightsides White + Hatteras White for the raised molding. Next was some cleanup and reassembly. Starboard cabinetry:





And reinstalling the portlight trim - after some cleanup:



Ok, I cleaned the trim, not the portlights themselves! :yikes:

And finishing some of the cupboard doors:



Next up - lots of work in the galley!

Cheers,

Mark
Mark,

Did you spray that interior paint, or roll/brush it on?

It looks so good!

Greg
 
May 8, 2013
629
Hunter 40 Dataw Island, SC
Mark,

Did you spray that interior paint, or roll/brush it on?

It looks so good!

Greg
The interior paint is rolled only. I have found some short nap (1/4") velour rollers that give a fantastic finish. Best thing, no tipping required :)
 
May 8, 2013
629
Hunter 40 Dataw Island, SC
More galley stuff:

Continuing with finalizing the galley, I needed to add some trim to the backsplash/bulkhead. First though I had to mount the faucet:



I added the top trim piece and a filler to the diagonal. My thought was I wanted a handhold there so a little work with various power tools (and no fingers injured this time!) and -voila! A handhold:



Next action - toss it in the trash since I messed up the cut on the upper part and try again. Version 2 looks much better!



Working around the galley to the stovetop, I wanted to elevate the stove off the countertop so a few pieces cut an screwed in place:



, then routed for that finished look:



There is a method to my madness here - I have a gimballing kit for the stovetop and a pretty good idea of how to make it work, so the trim is an interim measure that will eventually be modified to make gimballing the stove easier.

Next up, - uhh, - beats me, I gotta look through my pics to see what I did next :yikes:.

Cheers,

Mark
 
May 8, 2013
629
Hunter 40 Dataw Island, SC
Making holes in the galley:

I'm not sure if I ever said this somewhere in the previous 59 pages but things will shift a bit when parts are built and fitted while on the hard vs. in the water. Something to do with the boat sitting on the keel vs. 6000 lbs. of keel hanging from the boat when in the water!. So time to see if the galley parts & pieces will go back together :). Good news, they do! (mostly, there are a few gaps but I can fix most of them and live with the rest.

With the galley back together I could work out what openings I wanted (or needed) and finalize the placement and size of the drawers and trash bin:





The square openings near the bottom are for intake vents for the air conditioner:



The instructions for the a/c say that the natural gaps and spaces in a cabinet are good enough to allow airflow into the unit but I trend towards tighter gaps :biggrin: so I figured better safe than sorry!

Since I was in reassembly mode I figured I would verify my measurements made oh-so many years ago when I built the fridge cabinet - does the microwave actually fit?



Galley cabinets back in (temporarily):





An while I was at it I made the fiddles :



Next up, making drawers - not one of my favorite tasks!

Cheers,

Mark