Preparing for an ICW Journey

[Ran-Dee9229]

Thanks for all the helpful advice! I'm spending money like no one's business getting this boat in shape and can certainly save $ by skipping the washdown, the windlas, the 12-volt refrig, the wifi booster and the outboard on the dinghy. I recall my parents made the trip in 1980 on a Newport 30 with none of those fancier provisions. They had a hard dinghy with paddles.

I hear I really need 2 anchors. Where do I stow them in an O'Day 28? I have a single anchor locker on the bow that fits one. Do I mount the 2nd one somehow on the stern pulpit? When I deploy 2 anchors and quit swinging with the tides and wind how do I account for other boats nearby that may have just one anchor and be more likely to swing? I guess by having clear space between us but one cannot always count on that being available.

 

[The Garbone]

Dink, On our 27 we did the Achilles dink and deflated it on the foredeck, never towed on trips over 1 hour. Can be inflated in 10 minutes. OB always on the pushpit unless in use.

Get a good quality cooler, no need for a fridge, eggs don't need to be cooled. An Ipad or Android tablet with Active Captain is nice for finding anchorages.

 

[Jerry Clark H356 SV Persi]

Have done the west side and a Panhandle. Three pieces of advice.
1. Get a Lrehr propane 4 stroke 5HP for your dinghy motor. Gas will clog your small outboard carb and is very frustrating.
2. Get Sailflow and use Garmin for Active Captain with Verizon LTE.
3. When crossing the Gulf from Clearwater area monitor the West Tampa buoy. 42036. If winds forecast less than 10 Knots, waves less than 2 feet then go. If not, then wait for a window.

Have fun. It is a great trip.

 

[CarlN]

Very few people use a 2nd anchor on the ICW on a regular basis. I think I used my 2nd anchor once on th last trip. But it's good to have a backup. Tie the Danforth to the stern rail and keep a rode coiled in a plastic bucket. Only takes a moment to connect the shackle and cut the lashings on the anchor. or you may find a spot deep in a locker that's OK for rare use.

Rowing a hard dinghy is great (not so an inflatable) but you need to be able to bring your hard dinghy onto the foredeck for truly rough weather. Finding a hard dinghy that fits the bow and a way to lift it can be challenge on a 28ft boat. As Gary mentioned, a partially deflated dinghy on the bow and a small (2hp) outboard on the stern pulpit may be more convenient. Are you singlehanding? If so, a kayak either inflatable or solid is another option. It's a lot of fun to kayak up the many little inlets you'll see.

Be sure to have screens for the hatches and companionway and a bug swatter for those that past your defensive perimeter. My favorite is atill the traditional flyshooter. An "elegant" amd satisfying weapon from a simpler time....
https://www.amazon.com/Martin-Paul-...e=UTF8&qid=1472759933&sr=8-2&keywords=Bug+gun

Finally, make space for a good set of tools. There is truth to the saying "cruising is boat repair in exotic locations"

 

[gettinthere]

5 years of east coast cruising Maine to Bahamas and I have not used 2 anchors once and I dont recall seeing anyone else except permanent squatters.

Verizon has the best coverage but nobody does well in eastern carolina.

Hermine will make a mess of the ICW, cruisersnet.net will be a great resource for up to date info on the icw.

It does get cold in October north of Canaveral. We use a 'trawler lamp' burning lamp oil. Takes the chill off. Only use the good stuff, Weems and Plath, everything else stinks...literally.

Navionics on a tablet will provide current predictions, very important. Pablo Creek, for instance, runs 5 knots at full ebb!! You need to plan for this.

 

[Charlie Jones s/v Tehani]

one anchor or two?

As you enter an anchorage, pay attention to the boats already there. If they are all on a single, do likewise.

I seldom need the second anchor either, but sometimes it's a very important thing. Such as when anchored near the ICW and setting the stern anchor off to the shore side, to stop you from swinging out into the channel. And yeah, sometimes you NEED that.

Some spots in the Carolinas, and Georgia, have serious tides, and you'll anchor in narrow creeks. Ideal set ups for a Bahamas moor

Best to have the second, and not need it, ,than---

 

[Randall Schmidt]

I'm advised to get a plow anchor or some other non-fluke/danforth anchor for this trip. My boat has a small anchor locker on the bow and a bow roller at the tip of the bow. The roller does not extend very far forward of the edge of the bow. Given that plow (or other fluke anchor alternatives) tend to have a sharp angle edge to them I believe my current roller will position the anchor in a dangerous way that could end up damaging the bow below the topside of the boat in rough weather. How do others handle this? Don't use the roller while underway? Get a roller that extends farther forward?

 

[Randall Schmidt]

I'm also advised to have 2 anchors. On an O'Day 28 there is not much space for 2 anchors. Should I build some sort of mount on the stern pulpit and run the rode into the lazaret?

 

[Davidasailor26]

I'm advised to get a plow anchor or some other non-fluke/danforth anchor for this trip. My boat has a small anchor locker on the bow and a bow roller at the tip of the bow. The roller does not extend very far forward of the edge of the bow. Given that plow (or other fluke anchor alternatives) tend to have a sharp angle edge to them I believe my current roller will position the anchor in a dangerous way that could end up damaging the bow below the topside of the boat in rough weather. How do others handle this? Don't use the roller while underway? Get a roller that extends farther forward?

We had a CQR on our 28 that we kept on the roller. There was plenty of clearance between the tip of it and the hull. Not sure if other styles would be the same. We also had a danforth that we kept in the locker under the rode for the CQR, just in case of emergencies.

 

[okawbow]

On your trip down the ICW, you will benefit from using 2 Danforth anchors when you stop at night in a river or channel with current. When I did the trip, I anchored fore and aft well outside of the barge channel. The fore and aft anchoring in the river, allows you to pull the anchor lines tight, and stay in one place, without swinging into the channel or the shore.
In the sand and rocks with tidal switches, you may need a plow type anchor. I used a 33 pound Lewmar Claw, and 33 feet od 3/8" chain, all the way from Mobile to northern Maine without dragging or having trouble getting set.

 

[Kings Gambit]

For the second (i.e., kedge) anchor, make it a Fortress which can be disassembled and easily stowed. When needing it you can assemble and hang it at the stern on a simple stanchion-mount made for that type of anchor (below; get from Defender Marine). Keep the rode, including the chain lead, in a tote bag or anchor bag tied to the same stanchion or nearby life line. Hook up the anchor to the rode and you're ready to pay out. I have this set-up for my smaller kedge tackle (the size "normal" for your boat); 20 ft of 3/8" chain on 300' of 1/2" nylon 3-strand rode which all fits into the tote bag. In the bag, it's much easier to move around than in a bucket. Might be able to drop the whole thing into your lazarette. You can also buy a zippered tote which works better keeping the stuff in the bag when moving it about, etc.

IMHO, you do not need a windlass unless using all chain rode. I would go to nylon myself b/f buying and installing a windlass for a 28 footer. You do not need refrigeration; use the icebox. Large blocks of ice can get you through several days at a time even in FL during summer. Otherwise, provision mostly with non-perishables. Get a dinghy you can stow below and assemble on your fore deck when needed, such as a roll-up inflatable Zodiac Cadet (6' 7''). It will hold two persons. Get either a 2-hp four-stroke or a 4-hp two-stroke outboard if you want one. Do not tow long distances.

 

[Kings Gambit]

IN the fall you need to be concerned with weather during the hurricane season from Maryland and down. I would have all the charts and learn where hurricane holes are for example Blunt's Bay on the Pamlico River or those anchorages that are less affected by the winds. If anchoring for major storms, you may want a second anchor and when setting, throw the first to the east, motor back and let the anchor dig in. The second anchor should be thrown out to the south and again dig in making darn sure you are using chafe gear where the line comes over the boat so it will not rub thru. Ensure that the swing of your circle will not hit any other anchored boats.When charting your course, make sure you will clear all bridges if your mast with antennas and what ever you have on the mast will clear as I use to repair many where the sailor did not consider this. Most important, generally local knowledge is the best vs. weekend warriors who really do not know. It is a good idea as you mentioned going with a group who has made the trip before. Enjoy your trip and wish I could be a part but now living in the mountains overlooking the head of the James River.

Now I know where the "Crazy" comes from. Advising a veritable Newbie on his first trip down the ICW to head for a hurricane hole and drop two ("working") anchors, likely into mud, with a hurricane on the way! Geeze Louise! RS--get your ass to a marina and tie up, or haul the boat to the hard, unless, perhaps, you really believe that you know what you are doing. In any event, do whatever you're going to do earlier rather than later.

 

[Kings Gambit]

5 years of east coast cruising Maine to Bahamas and I have not used 2 anchors once and I dont recall seeing anyone else except permanent squatters.

Yeah?-- how many folks carrying life rafts have you ever seen deploy one? How many EPIRBs are out there that have never been activated? Have you ever once fired a single flare in distress, etc.? It doesn't matter how many trips one takes where a certain piece of gear is not used; what matters is, is it there when you need it? A second anchor is an important, even vital, piece of equipment--don't leave home w/o one! Most folks carry a bower (main bow anchor) and a smaller second anchor (a kedge); each with its own chain/rode. Some would say, however, that you need a bower and a larger storm anchor. I carry two anchors, either one of which could serve as the bower based on its respective rated holding power, plus a one-size-smaller kedge.

 

[gettinthere]

I never said HAVING 2 anchors is unnecessary. I have 3; 65, 45, 35.

What I said is I have never seen anyone actually anchor to two anchors...with my own eyes, while anchoring up and down the east coast for the last 5 years. So I have actually seen thousands of boats at anchor vs never actually seeing a liferaft deployed. Apples and lawnmowers. Try again.

 

[Kings Gambit]

I never said HAVING 2 anchors is unnecessary. I have 3; 65, 45, 35.

What I said is I have never seen anyone actually anchor to two anchors...with my own eyes, while anchoring up and down the east coast for the last 5 years. So I have actually seen thousands of boats at anchor vs never actually seeing a liferaft deployed. Apples and lawnmowers. Try again.

Sorry-- your intimation, seemed to me, was that two anchors were not needed [on the boat] travelling the ICW.

 

[Charlie Jones s/v Tehani]

I never said HAVING 2 anchors is unnecessary. I have 3; 65, 45, 35.

What I said is I have never seen anyone actually anchor to two anchors...with my own eyes, while anchoring up and down the east coast for the last 5 years. .

Well, I have, and have done it, several times. In many thousand miles of coast cruising, including two compllete trips from Annapolis to Port Isabel, Texas

Annapolis off the Naval Academy. Solomons Island, Boot Key Harbor in Marathon. All tightly filled, and many lying to two anchors. Plus several spots through the Carolinas where I deployed a second anchor off to one side, from the stern, to prevent swinging into the channel. It's true, I usually only lay out the main anchor, but the other DOES get used

 

[CarlN]

Randall,

One reason you're getting some conflicting anchor advise is anchor designs got much better starting about 20 years ago. The new designs changed a lot of the "rules" for anchoring. I have one of the new designs. Once set (which normally happens on the first try), it has NEVER dragged in hundreds of nights even with wind and current changes. Back when I had an old design (CQR and Delta), I often set a 2nd anchor because they dragged fairly frequently.

There are a bunch of the 'new gen" designs - Spade, Manson Supreme, Mantus, Rocna are some of the most popular. They all work vey well. If you go to their web sites, they will have dimensions that you can use to make sure it will work on your bow roller. If you're worried, make a cardboard pattern.

I strongly recommend that you put one of the above anchors on your bow roller for your ICW trip. You'll be using it all the time. Stick your existing anchor deep in the bilge somewhere. Always good to have a spare but I doubt it will get wet often.

If you aren't going to have a windlass, use rope and about 12' of chain. More chain is better but you need something that's easy to lift by hand. You'll be doing this almost every day - sometimes more than once a day. When you anchor, always put out at least 5:1 scope (including the height of the bow). After the anchor seems to be set, put the engine in reverse and leave it there for at least a minute. If your little engine can move the anchor, so can a 30 knot wind.

Carl

 

[Kings Gambit]

Forgive, but normally one does not use two anchors off the bow--one as a potential check to the dragging of the other-- as you are implying. The only common exception I know of is when setting up a Bahamian moor; there, the two anchors are each set from the bow. When two anchors are used it is usually one from the bow and the other from the stern to align the boat to on-coming sea or swell in contrary wind, or to keep it from swinging into something on one side or the other with a change in wind direction. So, the development of second-generation anchors really has nothing to do with the decision to equip the boat with a second anchor for one or both of the two reasons above. There's also the possibility than the principal anchor might be lost--then what? But, by all means, if you wish that extra security that folks here sing the praises of regarding the newer anchor designs, then get one. The one that people seem to like the most is the Rocna.

 

[Randall Schmidt]

Which Rocna do you recommend? vulcan, fisherman or original or does it matter?

 

[CarlN]

I wasn't "implying" that at all. The OP wants advice on the ICW. There's no swell and lots of places to anchor away from obstructions.

The primary dragging risk on the ICW is when an anchor fails to reset after a 180 degree current switch. Many ICW anchorages have several knots of current. The Bahamian moor WAS a very common anchoring technique on the ICW with old style anchors because an anchor was alighed with each current direction. The new gen anchors I have owned (Manson Supreme, Spade and Ultra) have all been astonishing good at this reset compared to my old CQR's and Delta which held great but didn't reset well - especially at 3AM.

I'm aware of no consensus of which is the better new-gen anchor. The Ronca (regular) has a good track record (except for a few years of shoddy manufacturing) but it is one of the oldest "new" designs. If I was buying an anchor for your boat it would be a 25lb Mantus. It is a far newer design than the Rocna with many fans (as all these anchors have fans). On their web site they have a full size paper template you can print out to check the bow roller clearance.