When the deck was worked on last time i added expoxy plugs in the foam and drilled holes for the screws. This is for the strap that holds the trolling motor battery. Going to reuse those since they look beautiful sanded down. Trace with paper and try not to put filler in there.
Parting out H170 in AZ
- Thread starter Mik
- Start date
Not sure if it is closed cell, usually, when any foam is cut all bets are off. The entire surface was sealed with epoxy just in case. Once the seal coat was jellled i wrapped a single sheet of glass around it.
Remind me to seal the edges once i bond it to the centerboard trunk, but not to bond the brace to my scissor jack
I’m starting to feel like the stereotypical back seat driver “Don’t take Main St, East St is better!!!!” Said in a VERY irritating voice
Couldn’t you just put screws in the holes, apply your filler and then while it’s still green take the screws out before they get stuck?
If you do that you will have to buy two new jacks, one for the car and the other to repeat the process on the other side of the boat so everything stays balanced!!!Remind me to seal the edges once i bond it to the centerboard trunk, but not to bond the brace to my scissor jack
You say that like that's how everyone does it. Keep throwing common sense my way.I’m starting to feel like the stereotypical back seat driver “Don’t take Main St, East St is better!!!!” Said in a VERY irritating voice
Couldn’t you just put screws in the holes, apply your filler and then while it’s still green take the screws out before they get stuck?
AAAAAAAHHHHH! The Gods hate me and my boat.
The brace under the deck and epoxied to the centerboard trunk fell off in my hands while touching it. The surface of the centerboard trunk must be some kind of polyethylene.
The foam deck is being held up by the Pl3X under the foot stop. I dont dare stand on the deck yet until thats resolved and glassed.
The brace under the deck and epoxied to the centerboard trunk fell off in my hands while touching it. The surface of the centerboard trunk must be some kind of polyethylene.
The foam deck is being held up by the Pl3X under the foot stop. I dont dare stand on the deck yet until thats resolved and glassed.
I can hear your frustration!!!
The photos of the trunk certainly look like epoxy layup and it doesn’t make a lot of sense for Hunter to introduce poly in the hull as they would have the same issues. However if your brace didn’t stick there’s a reason.
I have no experience with dealing with this issue but I found this.
www.jamestowndistributors.com
I don’t know about the flame treatment part inside the hull???
The photos of the trunk certainly look like epoxy layup and it doesn’t make a lot of sense for Hunter to introduce poly in the hull as they would have the same issues. However if your brace didn’t stick there’s a reason.
I have no experience with dealing with this issue but I found this.
Jamestown Distributors
I don’t know about the flame treatment part inside the hull???
Set the boat on fire...maybe there is a market to sell this boat as crumbled bits for homes heated by incinerators.I can hear your frustration!!!
The photos of the trunk certainly look like epoxy layup and it doesn’t make a lot of sense for Hunter to introduce poly in the hull as they would have the same issues. However if your brace didn’t stick there’s a reason.
I have no experience with dealing with this issue but I found this.
Jamestown Distributors
I don’t know about the flame treatment part inside the hull???
I thought the epoxy was going to be a slam dunk on the centerboard truck. It clearly looks like stitchmat.
You know what does stick? PL3X. Problem solved.
The glass is down for the deck. 105 ounces of 1700 biaxial stitchmat, three layers thick just like the benches. I did not measure the epoxy i used, but I cleared through the rest of my gallon container, so, about .75 gallons. Some of that was used with microballoons to fair the foam first. The foam core was all beat up from tearing off the luran and from sanding the core to remove the luran adhesive. That opens ip the gas pockets in the foam. I knew the glass wouldnt level up to the center foot stop so i also did two additional things. One, was to add filler between the foam and the luran to create a rounded fillet. The fillets were made with plastic "tongue depressors", the second, was to bevel the luran to a 1/8 in radius. As soon as the fairing coat jelled it was busy time for the next 2 hours adding layers.
One trick I have been doing is scraping the PL3X off the luran when done gluing the luran back to foam. I take a sharp chisal and drag it on edge like a planer. This gives a pure surface eith a very rough cut.
I have some epoxy left over, but not enough for the two topcoats. Tomorrow, ill pick up some more and finish it off after i do some minor sanding of the edges.
The flexing is gone. The deck feels great under foot. I purposely had the layers get larger and cover the luran, ysing the luran foot stop as a support shelf. No MMA work here.
This is pretty easy to do and I have almost 6 yards of stitchmat left. I might do the cuddy cabin floor too if there is enough epoxy after clear coating and finsl faring. There is one delamination bubble up there.
One trick I have been doing is scraping the PL3X off the luran when done gluing the luran back to foam. I take a sharp chisal and drag it on edge like a planer. This gives a pure surface eith a very rough cut.
I have some epoxy left over, but not enough for the two topcoats. Tomorrow, ill pick up some more and finish it off after i do some minor sanding of the edges.
The flexing is gone. The deck feels great under foot. I purposely had the layers get larger and cover the luran, ysing the luran foot stop as a support shelf. No MMA work here.
This is pretty easy to do and I have almost 6 yards of stitchmat left. I might do the cuddy cabin floor too if there is enough epoxy after clear coating and finsl faring. There is one delamination bubble up there.
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I also noticed you fixed your mast step area. Thought I would cross link to your post about that here for historical reasons.
Keep this up and you won’t have anything left to fix, you will just have to sail all the time!
Keep this up and you won’t have anything left to fix, you will just have to sail all the time!
Hunter 170 Mast Step - More Rotten Plywood
So I'm working on the deck of A Hunter 170 and there was a need to remove the metal Mast Tabernacle. The screws were very loose, so much so that I was able to remove the screws with just my fingers. The wet wood smell hit me right away. There was trouble down below. The repair is going to...
forums.sailboatowners.com
The good sailing season started about 2 weeks ago. I look forward to getting going again. too bad the budget was blown. Was getting excited for new sails.
Does anybody get a free ride on any year?
Boat would have been a loss in about 2-3 years without this recent repair.
Why not? There was a small bubble just fore of the tabernacle so rather than work on it next year I'm feeling like it should be dealt with now. My back is killing me and its time to wrap thus up.
This section was completly delaminated. It felt solid when walking on (except for the warped section), but after it was cut out it came right off with only a couple bits of glue. The adhesive is spread all over the foam, but it wasnt sticking to the luran. The only battle was the bottom right. I repaired a crack last spring there. That was well attached. There i not only cut a v notch, but also cut into the foam to increase the grip.
The perimeter is already glued down with weight. I left about 2-3 inches of luran so there would be more for gripping. The luran is very thin in this area. Tomorrow, the excess glue is removed and will sand the foam to get rid of the factory adhesive. Should be able to do a complete layup after work. Patterns are aready cut out.
The deck and benches got a faring this evening. The goal is to be painting by Friday.
This section was completly delaminated. It felt solid when walking on (except for the warped section), but after it was cut out it came right off with only a couple bits of glue. The adhesive is spread all over the foam, but it wasnt sticking to the luran. The only battle was the bottom right. I repaired a crack last spring there. That was well attached. There i not only cut a v notch, but also cut into the foam to increase the grip.
The perimeter is already glued down with weight. I left about 2-3 inches of luran so there would be more for gripping. The luran is very thin in this area. Tomorrow, the excess glue is removed and will sand the foam to get rid of the factory adhesive. Should be able to do a complete layup after work. Patterns are aready cut out.
The deck and benches got a faring this evening. The goal is to be painting by Friday.
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Thats interesting that it would be thinner. I envisioned the top Luran layer being one piece that got formed and the thickness would be consistent. Do you think the “shaping” process stretched it thinner or they used different pieces?
Good for you to stick it out and do this area while your on a roll so to speak.
One more quart of resin needed. Good lord the stuff vanishes into thin air once it is spread out. I drop a beer and it covers the entire kitchen and finds it way under the fridge.Have to say the west system is really tough to work with. The fast hardener is jelling up about 5 minutes into the layup, have to work super fast. The total boat fast hardener gave plenty of time. US composite the same, plenty of time. I made the mistake picking up enough fast hardener for a gallon of resin and used up that quart of resin. Ideally, the west system would be gone and i put in another order for US Composite kit.
Have to say the west system is really tough to work with. The fast hardener is jelling up about 5 minutes into the layup, have to work super fast. The total boat fast hardener gave plenty of time. US composite the same, plenty of time. I made the mistake picking up enough fast hardener for a gallon of resin and used up that quart of resin. Ideally, the west system would be gone and i put in another order for US Composite kit.It thins out from the centerboard trunk forward, but is really thin in the cuddy. Im getting really good at putting a sloping fillet between the foam and the luran, but there is very little transition up there. Probably stretched out going down those long vertical sections.
The paint is on! 3.5 cans of gloss white rustoleum universal. Its better than faired epoxy, but not longboard sanded like the hull is. Lets call it a "3 foot" job. I was getting tired of sanding and went beast mode with the disc sander. 80 grit is a godsend, but I took it real slow for the most part. As i got better the pressure increased untl for the last bit it seemed like fast movements at high rpm was more predictable than esay does it at low speeds. I blocked most of the surfaces with 100 grit but there are curves that make longboard sanding difficult and mist curves are concave. When i touched up with 220 using the disc sander it made a plume of dust that filled the garage. The uick pass with 220 was over in 20 minutes. The surface is uniform and looks good for birds to shit on. There are stilk some areas i could touch up, but id like to get some sails bended back on before i care further. By the time i put the hydro turf back on it will be fantastic. Gonna do a couple sails without the padding just so the paint can bake on with sun and uv.
