Oh my sweet rotten unicorn.
- Thread starter monocerosin
- Start date
Posted the switch board which I yanked out. Plan on buying a more simplified master as I want minimal electric on board. Maybe I will repurpose one set of the bus bars and switches if I test them and they seem good. Any feedback on whether I should salvage or pitch it is appreciated. I am not using a/c or shore power at all.
Ripping everything rotten out. Forward port shroud chain plate with literally no wood left and only some fiberglass holding it in place, shroud is hand loosened.
Bulkhead aft of said chainplate is also rotten and will be replaced.
Removed electrosan today in hopes of refurbishing it rather than buying a new one.
Citristrip on the rudder worked really well. Will continue the rest of the bottom.
Temporarily set up the solar power in the aft compartment as it stays dry and I put the panel up on the Bimini rails. I am using the power to charge power tool batteries and keep my starter battery charged. But I am going to pull out the yanmar and rebuild it on a table.
More updates to come. We just finally got it pulled out of the water and can really get into all of it.
Going to keep updating this page and making videos. Please feel free to give any and all advice. You folks here seem the most friendly and helpful! Thanks.
Ripping everything rotten out. Forward port shroud chain plate with literally no wood left and only some fiberglass holding it in place, shroud is hand loosened.
Bulkhead aft of said chainplate is also rotten and will be replaced.
Removed electrosan today in hopes of refurbishing it rather than buying a new one.
Citristrip on the rudder worked really well. Will continue the rest of the bottom.
Temporarily set up the solar power in the aft compartment as it stays dry and I put the panel up on the Bimini rails. I am using the power to charge power tool batteries and keep my starter battery charged. But I am going to pull out the yanmar and rebuild it on a table.
More updates to come. We just finally got it pulled out of the water and can really get into all of it.
Going to keep updating this page and making videos. Please feel free to give any and all advice. You folks here seem the most friendly and helpful! Thanks.
What do we see on the rudder ?
Is the remaining surface scuffed gel coat or epoxy ?
I presume the black was only the black bottom paint as Citristrip isn't going to attack either epoxy or gel coat.
Now you're at the crossroads ..................... what do you intend to do with the hull bottom ? If you have a good solid epoxy coating on the bottom, you're lucky and can lightly sand it and proceed with bottom paint. If it's gel coat, is it solid enough to lightly sand and bottom coat. You're going to have to make some decisions here which could impact you're future work on the hull.
How do I know if it's epoxy or gelcoat? Is there a test I can do to the surface? I figure doing this first strip will take awhile and I can research more about what bottom paint I want to use.
Attachments
The boat is not made of epoxy, it is likely polyester resin and glass. If there is epoxy on the bottom, it will be a barrier coat to prevent blisters. Gelcoat is usually white. If you sand through the gelcoat you will see the polyester resin and glass, it will e quit obvious. Citristrip is safe for gelcoat so it will not remove it. Gelcoat has to be mechanically removed by sanding, grinding, or soda blasting.
So I can sand the black and blue off down to all white everywhere, and then prep for new barrier coat or just new bottom coat? I've only found one blister so far and will remedy it.
Yep. The fiberglass usually has a slight blue tint to it, but it doesn't look anything like blue bottom paint.
The gel coat on the bottom of the hull flows into the gel coat above the water line hence the same colour.
The epoxy barrier coat I applied was a gun metal grey. If you have a epoxy barrier coat, it will unlikely be the same colour as the gel coat above the water line.
If you plan to pour your heart and soul into this boat, I would ensure it has a sound barrier coat even if it means applying a new one. So far you only show one blister and it would be nice to avoid any others into the future.
Excellent! I did find some grey just above the white so yes to the gelcoat layer. I will carry on with the citristrip and scrape and sand so it's all white, do repairs and I'm looking at silic one bottom paint system.
It is correct, not an auto correct.
Not sure it is available in the US.
Never heard of them before. Technical material up the ying yang. I'm somewhat skeptical until I could see some user's unsolicited comments. Not impressed by their statement of only good for two years when I can get seven years out of West Marine CPP+ Ablative paint. Yeah, yeah, I know, can't be done but I'll just keep on doing it.
oh, yeah, i think i'm into this for the Love not the fame. If we can get this boat stronger and lighter than its ever been, I believe it will take us wherever we want to go.
I'm looking at "silic one" system for the bottom. Thanks to everyone here helping me out, identifying what I have and what i need was a big first step.
Probably wait until spring to rip up the decks around the chainplates, but I think I might tackle re-coring the cockpit sole and rebed the helm if anyone here has tip on that process!
Here's a side by side test over 8 months of daily use.
I sent the Denmark office an e-mail and they forwarded It to an office in Texas so I will see if I get a response. Looks like they may have an American version with a different name but without talking to them I'm not sure. More updates to come.
hempel is a world-wide company.
I use their railcar exterior paints and interior linings on the rail cars I manage.
But I had not hard about their marine AF paint before.
These YouTube’rs applied it to their 40 foot Bene…and the really like it.
I use their railcar exterior paints and interior linings on the rail cars I manage.
But I had not hard about their marine AF paint before.
These YouTube’rs applied it to their 40 foot Bene…and the really like it.
I very much suspect this will be the future of bottom paints. One cannot keep wandering around shedding great clouds of toxic material into the ocean. Bottom paints will have to develop into slicker and longer lasting coatings with no ablating.
Somehow I knew you were a railroading man. Here's a few pictures of my son and me pretending to be working and shoveling coal on a 4-6-2 Baldwin 1904 engine.
Pretty cool Ralph!
Here is one of mine…. But no coal or steam… but a 12 cylinder diesel!
Greg
Beautiful.
Never driven a diesel but when you started to open the throttle on this beast, it surged right through your body. Smoother that a Rolls Royce when it stared moving from standing still. You'd build up to about 200 PSI when approaching a hill to keep the speed up. We were pulling 5 loaded ore cars for the feel of how the engine worked. I was born 100 years too late.
Never driven a diesel but when you started to open the throttle on this beast, it surged right through your body. Smoother that a Rolls Royce when it stared moving from standing still. You'd build up to about 200 PSI when approaching a hill to keep the speed up. We were pulling 5 loaded ore cars for the feel of how the engine worked. I was born 100 years too late.