O’Day 322 Keel Bolts

Jul 17, 2012
22
Oday 322 Fairhaven
Ahoy!

I was hoping someone could help me.
I noticed when I hauled my 322 this fall that the winged keel had some movement where it attached to the hull. I’ve never tightened the bolts so it’s time to do so.

What are the torque specs? I’ve seen some really high numbers online that make me nervous. It’s on the hard sitting on the keel so do I need to torque it down to the full specification?

I hear people talk about rebedding, what is the process for that?

Any tricks/tips would be appreciated. My biggest fear is breaking one of the bolts...

Thanks!
 
Sep 23, 2009
1,475
O'Day 34-At Last Rock Hall, Md
Simple answer yes fully torque while on hard. However the 322 has had some keel issues. Please search the o'day big boats forum here as there is much more information to help you there. Rebedding is best done by yards with experience dropping and repairing keels although has been done by dyi.
Good luck and let us know how you make out.
 
Jan 7, 2011
4,727
Oday 322 East Chicago, IN
According to the article attached, 280 ft/lbs for the 1” bolts and 160 ft/lbs for the 3/4” bolt.
http://www.iheartodays.com/model_oday_322.html

I tried to tighten mine this year before I launched. Someone had left a 1/2 drive socket for the 1” bolts on the boat. My torque wrench is only 150 ft/lbs, and I could not budge the nuts last year. This year, I used a 2 foot cheater on the torque wrench. I did get 1/4 turn on each of the 3) 1”bolts, but I am not sure what the torque is.

What does your stub keel joint look like?

Dropping the keel and inspecting the stub keel layup would be ideal, but a big job not for novices like me. Then rebed the keel to the stub.

On mine, after tightening the bolts, I resealed the keel joint just to try and keep water out.

So far, so good. Bilge is dry after a week in the water.


Greg
 

DArcy

.
Feb 11, 2017
1,690
Islander Freeport 36 Ottawa
I have always torqued my keel bolts in the water; I believe that is how the torque is specified. Since you saw some motion in the keel, you will want to torque before you launch but then check again in the water. I'd be nervous about the keel joint sealant if there is much motion, you may want to get that checked out by a professional, check for structural issues or water ingress.
 
Jul 17, 2012
22
Oday 322 Fairhaven
Thanks for the responses!

The movement of the keel was noticed when the boat was on the trailer in the boatyard being moved. No water or any other symptoms noted prior to hauling. The bolts/nuts look pristine from the bilge side. The keel joint looks fine from outside now as it sits, the sealant (lifecaulk) I applied 10 years ago is still there (bottom paint always comes off of it so It’s visible).

I read a bunch of the posts about 322 keel stub attachment issues, my hull number is 100 built in 1997 so I think (hope) I’m ok in relation to the fiberglass thickness.

In terms of rebedding I was thinking more along the lines of removing the nuts and 3 inch backing plates from top, Cleaning and resealing with appropriate goop...I wasn’t thinking of removing and rebedding entire keel but understand that is the definitive fix. I will also recheck when in the water.

Any thoughts on my plan would be welcome.

Cheers!
 
Jan 2, 2017
765
O'Day & Islander 322 & 37 Scottsdale, AZ & Owls Head, ME
I read a bunch of the posts about 322 keel stub attachment issues, my hull number is 100 built in 1997 so I think
Oday 322s were built only in 1987-1989, when Oday went out of business.
 
Jul 17, 2012
22
Oday 322 Fairhaven
So after closer inspection not pristine after all.

I’ve removed the small nut and one of the big nuts. I’m not happy with the small nuts washers they are compressed and corroded See picture.

I’m thinking of having a single stainless plate fabricated to conform with the bilge area for the aft 3 bolts. If I do this I’m thinking of bedding it in G flex epoxy. Any thoughts on this? Is G flex the right stuff for the job? Any opinions would be appreciated.
10A242B5-B1A7-45C4-9E2A-00FE2932B05E.jpeg


1795A0E8-26B4-40BA-8709-56E06644160B.jpeg
 
Nov 6, 2006
9,884
Hunter 34 Mandeville Louisiana
heavy plate, like 3/16 or 1/4".. G-Flex is fine..
Carefully inspect the trace that looks like a crack that starts top right by blue wire and goes diagonally to under the middle bolt.. may be cosmetic, but check that out carefully.
 

DArcy

.
Feb 11, 2017
1,690
Islander Freeport 36 Ottawa
Is the small one with the damaged washer on the forward or aft end? Has there been a hard grounding? Inspect inside and outside for any signs of cracking in the resin or gelcoat. Clean up around that small stud and check for cracks, also check very closely around the stud at the opposite end.
It may just be the large nuts have not been torqued properly through their life and the load was transferred to the small stud which caused the damage to the washer you are seeing. If that is true, and there aren't any signs of damage to the laminate, torqueing everything up to spec could fix this issue. Don't be too optimistic in your inspection though, you don't want to find out the hard way there is a structural problem.
 
Jul 17, 2012
22
Oday 322 Fairhaven
Is the small one with the damaged washer on the forward or aft end? Has there been a hard grounding? Inspect inside and outside for any signs of cracking in the resin or gelcoat. Clean up around that small stud and check for cracks, also check very closely around the stud at the opposite end.
It may just be the large nuts have not been torqued properly through their life and the load was transferred to the small stud which caused the damage to the washer you are seeing. If that is true, and there aren't any signs of damage to the laminate, torqueing everything up to spec could fix this issue. Don't be too optimistic in your inspection though, you don't want to find out the hard way there is a structural problem.
Thanks! The small bolt is aft. There has been a couple bumps over the years but none in the last 10. No damage on exterior noted. I’ll do some more digging tomorrow and post the results.
 
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Jul 17, 2012
22
Oday 322 Fairhaven
I inspected the keel sump area in and out and am glad that what looked to be a crack in the picture I posted is actually just inconsistencies in the fibergalss layup. I’ve made a template and will have it made up this week.

8EF9E5B6-B83D-4E8A-B015-63947DF010FD.jpeg
 
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DArcy

.
Feb 11, 2017
1,690
Islander Freeport 36 Ottawa
Looks good Josh. What material are you using for the plate?
 

DArcy

.
Feb 11, 2017
1,690
Islander Freeport 36 Ottawa
1/4 inch stainless steel should be enough, if you like to be one or two sizes more than enough :) Are you using 316 stainless? 316 is a really good for corrosion resistance but not generally used below the water line. It looks like this is an easy area to inspect so just keep an eye on it, especially if there is standing water in your bilge.
 
Jul 17, 2012
22
Oday 322 Fairhaven
1/4 inch stainless steel should be enough, if you like to be one or two sizes more than enough :) Are you using 316 stainless? 316 is a really good for corrosion resistance but not generally used below the water line. It looks like this is an easy area to inspect so just keep an eye on it, especially if there is standing water in your bilge.
Yes, we just ordered a piece of 316. There is usually a bit of standing water but the existing smaller plates lasted this long so I should be good.
 
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Jul 17, 2012
22
Oday 322 Fairhaven
What size socket does the small keel bolt take?

Greg
The rear small bolt takes 1 1/8 extra deep socket. I bought Sunex 236xd. The front three take 1 1/2 extra deep socket. I bought a Sunex 248xd. You will also need a 10 inch extension Sunex 2510 worked for me. I originally tried an extension bought at autozone and it was really wobbly.
 
Jul 17, 2012
22
Oday 322 Fairhaven
One more note on a problem that I uncovered on my 322.

The rear keel bolt was not bonded. I never thought about it before this project but now think it presents a problem. The three larger bolts have plates that are bonded. I think the lack of bonding contributed to the poor condition of the washers on the small bolt due to electrolysis.

My fix will address the issue because I’m bonding the new stainless plate. If I wasn’t doing this I’d probably add a bonding wire to the top of the smaller bolt with a second nut.

I’m curious if anybody else has run into this.