Completely gone zinc may suggest that you now have corrosion/rust building up inside. I have seen passages rust up inside to the point where they were basically closed. Those zinc sticks can be important.
No Hot Water
- Thread starter jviss
- Start date
The white protrusion is the temperature probe, not an anode. It is the other half of T&P or Temperature & Pressure relief valve.
I am thinking that over the winter my heating circuit sucked air via the pressure cap on the remote expansion tank. I recall that the overflow tank was not full, and there was air in the line from overflow tank to the pressure cap seat nipple. There's a pool of coolant in the sump pan under the engine, but that was there when things worked last Fall, and was explained as a spill during maintenance; I had a chance to clean it up. So, I'm going to clean that up, open the remote tank and fill it, fill the recovery tank and line to the proper level. Then I don't know; maybe run the engine 'til the thermostat opens before I fit the remote pressure cap? Fill as the engine's running and then cap it? Thoughts?
Here are Westerbeke docs on this. I have the system on the right, bottom of page 58, since my water heater is well above the engine.
Here are Westerbeke docs on this. I have the system on the right, bottom of page 58, since my water heater is well above the engine.
The conclusion:
I pumped the excess coolant out of the under-engine fiberglass pan; about a quart. No signs of a leak, though. It was there when I bought the boat, I think a spill that was never cleaned. Apparently this can happen if you open the engine expansion tank cap once the higher remote tank is filled.
I opened the remote tank, and it was empty. The cap was wrong, too, a 13psi pressure cap that should be 7psi. I pumped in about 1 gal. to fill it, and also added to the overflow tank to the correct level.
Now I have hot water!
The bad news is there's a weeping leak from the remote tank. It's only a very small dribble. Of course, since it's Westerbeke, it's a $449 part! My plan is to bypass it with a piece of pipe and hose barbs temporarily so I can remove it to repair it - either JB Weld, or real aluminum welding.
http://discountmarinesource.com/sto...oNIgQny3_5zJXEcQkl0TFWuLqxxH7p6RoCXGQQAvD_BwE
I pumped the excess coolant out of the under-engine fiberglass pan; about a quart. No signs of a leak, though. It was there when I bought the boat, I think a spill that was never cleaned. Apparently this can happen if you open the engine expansion tank cap once the higher remote tank is filled.
I opened the remote tank, and it was empty. The cap was wrong, too, a 13psi pressure cap that should be 7psi. I pumped in about 1 gal. to fill it, and also added to the overflow tank to the correct level.
Now I have hot water!
The bad news is there's a weeping leak from the remote tank. It's only a very small dribble. Of course, since it's Westerbeke, it's a $449 part! My plan is to bypass it with a piece of pipe and hose barbs temporarily so I can remove it to repair it - either JB Weld, or real aluminum welding.
http://discountmarinesource.com/sto...oNIgQny3_5zJXEcQkl0TFWuLqxxH7p6RoCXGQQAvD_BwE