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My 1980 Hunter 30 rennovation

Jun 25, 2013
140
Hunter 30 Montreal
Before I bring and install in the boat the new pieces of wood, I checked for leaking. I took a little bit more than 4 hours with my father to tighten all the rail bolts (joint of deck and hull) beaucause some were leaking.

I removed all the stanchions and made shims to redress them because some were fold.

In all cases, I use buthyl tape to seal all the potential leaking sources.

Now, no more water is entering in the cabin!

I don't have any pict for this step.
 
Jun 25, 2013
140
Hunter 30 Montreal
Here is what I did with the V-Berth.

In my woodworking shop, I prepared the small boards of mahogany and use tung oil to seal them. I really like working with oil. 5 layers have been applied in the shop and two more when the pieces were fixed in the boat.









I glued 4 vertical pieces of wood on the hull interior surface with contractor glue (I think it is a polyurethan glue), then I used solid brass screw to fix the boards. I wanted to keep them not permanent, so I can remove a board and pass wires or anything else. I could have paint the surface in black, but I did'nt take the time to do it. And with my new hull paint in marine blue, no more light is visible.

I also ordered marine exterior carpet si it fits with the color of the upholestery. Contact glue was used. Very easy to make and final result is clean. I kept all the teak pieces I could. I also painted in white the bulkhead covers.







 
Jun 25, 2013
140
Hunter 30 Montreal
Handrails have been added in the head and each side od the principal door of the boat (how do we call it in english?):



 
Jun 25, 2013
140
Hunter 30 Montreal
I worked a lot on the deck and the hull. On the deck, the gelcoat was very oxydized and there was many small holes. No cracks, except few ones in the cockpit. I removed all the the teak pieces that were easy to bring at home.


I began to fill the holes, cracks and sand all the surface with 220 grit sandpaper. I used 3M marine filler. Clean it with fresh water and solvent. Then, I applied 2 coats of prekote Interlux one component paint with roll and tip technic. Sanded between layers with 320 grit sandpaper and applied 2 coats of Brightside Interlux one component paint with roll and tip technic. I used good bristol brushes.


On non-slippery surfaces, I sand with rotary sanding machine with 80 grit sandpaper and applied 2 coats of primekote epoxy Interlux primer will roller. I finally applied 3 coats of Interdeck Interlux paint.














I made a temporary support for the mast to let me paint the cockpit













 
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Jun 25, 2013
140
Hunter 30 Montreal
I had a few works to do in the cabin, especialy to remove old fittings that were not serviciable. They are in bulkheads and they represent a risk of leak. A dirty, but easy job. Fiberglass clothing layers in and out of the hull to build a sandwich. The painted areas with autifouling on the exterior of the hull makes the light no trespassing.



I used the fifth thru hull for my new depth sounder.





 
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Jun 25, 2013
140
Hunter 30 Montreal
I fixed the V-berth hatche. He was leaking. I removed the glass, cleaned it, clean the hactch and sanded with 220 grit sandpaper. I applied a zinc base primer (automotive part) and a normal primer. Then, I communicate with the representant of BOMAR hatches and I bought the stuff he suggested to me: General Electric marine grade silicone I bought directly from BOMAR. I also installed a solar fan.







I also installed two hatche risers because the original was missing. I had to modifie them a bit, but it not a big job.

 
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Jun 25, 2013
140
Hunter 30 Montreal
Here are some pictures about painting the hull.


First, I redefined the water line because she was not right as you can see on the picture below.



I began to sand all the hull surface, fill holes, cracks or scratches. The water line took more than 15 hours of work to get it right and ready to paint. A dirty job...













First coat of epoxy primer. Roll and tip technic. Too long. All the next coats will be apply by gun application.













Water line and white line near the deck have been done with Perfection Interlux paint by roll and tip technic. It is not perfect as the flag blue color on the hull, but not so bad. The defference is not visible at more than 10 or 15 feet.





 
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Jun 25, 2013
140
Hunter 30 Montreal
In the shop when weather was'nt fair to work on the boat, I was working wood. New brass door hinges and borders because few were delaminated. I used scrap mhogany pieces and glue them to do a veneer for all border drawer and door.




I made a new solid mahogany table and compartement.



In the shop again, new hand rails and other wood pieces are varnished. I used Epifanes products. 8 to 10 coats. Bristol brushe.






To be continued...
 
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Jun 13, 2005
74
Hunter 30_74-83 Fowl River, AL
Fuligule, That is some beautiful work you have done. You should be very proud!
I am working on improving my 1982 Hunter 30, DreamBoat, but I will never be able to do that kind of work.
After chartering some newer boats, my sweetheart and I wanted a boat with some more modern amenities, but after looking at the cost of these newer boats, I decided it would make more financial sense to upgrade my existing boat. I have started with the hull, and will refinish the deck and the interior this fall.
I also removed the hot water tank on DreamBoat, since it didn't work. I like the engine access hatch you have in the cockpit, and will look forward to more information about that. My boat does not have this access, and I am scared to start cutting holes in the cockpit. After seeing yours, I see that it is possible to get better access to the engine.
Your cockpit table is beautiful! You obviously have some serious woodworking skills. You have given me a lot of ideas for improvements, and my "Boat List" has just grown longer. Thanks for sharing.
 
Jun 25, 2013
140
Hunter 30 Montreal
Fuligule, That is some beautiful work you have done. You should be very proud!

Thanks dbecker68! I am very happy of the result and this summer, I hope all the family with kids will appreciate all this work. The mast is still down and I got some modifications to do (lazy jack, changing bulb lights, VHF antenna, etc.) before raising it. After doing that, we will have the chance to sail really for the first time with kids onboard.


I decided it would make more financial sense to upgrade my existing boat. I have started with the hull, and will refinish the deck and the interior this fall.

If you are able to work with your hands, I alaways said that it make sense to upgrade our existing boat. I will never have the budget to buy a recent sailboat, so I try to make my sailboat boat customized and safe.


I also removed the hot water tank on DreamBoat, since it didn't work. I like the engine access hatch you have in the cockpit, and will look forward to more information about that. My boat does not have this access, and I am scared to start cutting holes in the cockpit. After seeing yours, I see that it is possible to get better access to the engine.

I will get again to the boat next week and I will take more pictures of the access to the engine/battery compartment in the cockpit. I though all Hunter 30 had this access. I visited several Hunter 30 before I buing the one I own and all of these had this access, except that newest (1982 and 1983's) had a lock like the one for the anchor pit. Maybe it was a option when buying this model?

For sure, I did'nt cut the hatch in the cockpit, it was already there but was leaking due ti cracks and screw holes. The previous owner put screws to attach wires in under the cockpit floor and screws were pointing up, as I hurted my fingers when I tryed to clean up the area for the first time. I discorved holes not filled, etc.

I fixed it all and I though about hinges, but I decided that it will be more simple to keep it like that. It is fast to remove and no more leaking now!

About the water thank, here are some pictures of Fuligule:


 
Jun 25, 2013
140
Hunter 30 Montreal

I used the old hand rails.



I glued with epoxy old teak pieces under the cockpit floor to tie up wires. I also used previous hand rails and the rest of linoleum (vinyl floor?) so it makes the compartment clean.





Got a lot of space for all kind and fenders too.



Here you can see the heating water tank I removed when I come back to Canada with my new purchase... I sold it couple months later and I bought my barbecue with the money, really good exchange!



To be continued...
 
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Jun 25, 2013
140
Hunter 30 Montreal
Here is fine details part of the project: overhead LED lights.

Segmented woodturning in brasilian mahogany. LED's, switches, shrink, and other electronic components have been bought on DealXtreme.com
.

They are really bright, little too bright. I would suggest using half LED pads I used.
























 
Jun 25, 2013
140
Hunter 30 Montreal
Here is the base of the mast. I wanted to be able to raise the mast by myself, so I built a hinge in aluminium. I cut the pieces with my wood band saw using an old blade with oil. I went to a machine shop for the welding.



I installed 2 new thru wires and sealed them with buthyl tape. I replaced sealed wires connections for lighting in the mast and the VHF fitting. Brand new!







To be continued...
 
Jun 25, 2013
140
Hunter 30 Montreal
Here is what I've done for raising alone my mast. I cut my pieces et make my holes, but a machine shop did the welding. I used 1/2 inches plate of aluminium.

 
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Jun 25, 2013
140
Hunter 30 Montreal
Aluminum and adjustable "A" frame for raisong the mast.






To be continued...
 
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Jun 25, 2013
140
Hunter 30 Montreal
In the cabin, I did a few modifications...

I removed bottom drawers on portside for more space.



I fixed the table because she was dangerous. I add these pieces of wood under the piano hing part:



New compartments in brasilian mahogany:



I changed portside and starboard deck thru hulls and hoses:



Previous owner gave me a support for the stove, but was not the original for this stove. I just fixed it.



In the electrical compartment, I moved the battery charger and moved the pressure water pump let me use the space for my tool box. Water pressure pump was placed beside the water tank.



To be continued...
 
Jun 25, 2013
140
Hunter 30 Montreal
I like the engine access hatch you have in the cockpit, and will look forward to more information about that. My boat does not have this access, and I am scared to start cutting holes in the cockpit. After seeing yours, I see that it is possible to get better access to the engine.
Hi dbecker68,

Here are more pictures of this access:




The previous owner scred the cover with SS scres, but he was not in the righ way. The front was in the back and the back at the front... I unscrewed the cover and fixed the holes.



I add 1/2" mahogany pieces to rise the borders, so the water does not enter. I add a flexible foam to seal the panel. It is now easy to remove without any tools!





Epoxy with fiberglass cothing.

It is a little bit dirty, but no one except me see that under the teck floor!



I hope this give you a better idea of the access!
 
Jun 25, 2013
140
Hunter 30 Montreal
Here are few more pict of the interior with brass pieces and personnal effects:











To be continued...
 
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