Morgan 323 Rebuild

[Will Gilmore]

You can't 3D print one? You could also rewire the key for a toggle switch inside a locked console cabinet. But then, you already have one key. You can get a copy printed online by taking a picture with your phone. Or there is this option, which I like for its convenience and security

-Will ("Adding complexity", Dragonfly)

 

[dLj]

Speaking of the inboard, what is the best place to order a spare ignition key for a Yanmar inboard? I think they are all the same. I just don’t like only having one.

Do you know what Yanmar you have? The old Yanmars only had two keys, a flat one and a round one. If you post a photo of your ignition, I might be able to tell you. You could also take a photo of the engine, someone here can probably tell you what it is.

dj

 

[kappykaplan]

Since there are few independent hardware stores around any more, which brand had them? Ace? Best?

It was an Ace hardware store.

 

[BitsPerSecond]

Do you know what Yanmar you have? The old Yanmars only had two keys, a flat one and a round one. If you post a photo of your ignition, I might be able to tell you. You could also take a photo of the engine, someone here can probably tell you what it is.

dj

I dont know offhand. The service manual is for models 1 GM (10 L), 2 GM (F) (L), 3 GM (D)(F)(L), 3 HM (F) (L).

You can't 3D print one? You could also rewire the key for a toggle switch inside a locked console cabinet. But then, you already have one key. You can get a copy printed online by taking a picture with your phone. Or there is this option, which I like for its convenience and security

-Will ("Adding complexity", Dragonfly)

That is a little overboard isn't it? Even for me.

 

[Will Gilmore]

That is a little overboard isn't it? Even for me.

Sometimes innovation is discovered when you go overboard. You never know what lurks below until you dive in, as you are discovering .
This project is getting more and more interesting to follow, thanks for bringing us all along.

-Will (Dragonfly)

 

[sailnoproblem]

Sometimes innovation is discovered when you go overboard. You never know what lurks below until you dive in, as you are discovering .
This project is getting more and more interesting to follow, thanks for bringing us all along.

-Will (Dragonfly)

I have to agree with BitsPerSecond, that Password protected starter is a bit much for her project.

 

[agprice22]

I have that arduino and kepad! It only takes a small sketch to program it! I thought of a keypad lock for the companionway, but... then you gotta connect a servo or linear actuator to activate the thumb turn.
The ignition lock would be a cinch! What fun!

 

[Will Gilmore]

I have to agree with BitsPerSecond, that Password protected starter is a bit much for her project.

Maybe so.
I was thinking it more of a replacement for a key. You'll never loose it. We use a keypad lock on our vacation rental home. It is very convenient. I can program up to 6 codes so each renter has a unique code based on their personal information. That way, they can't lock themselves out or go home with the key and they will remember it. There's a default code and our own personal code. It is also good for temporary access for workers. Of course, there is a key override in case the battery dies. I think there is a mechanical version, so the electronics can't have issues either.

-Will (Dragonfly)

 

[sailnoproblem]

Maybe so.
I was thinking it more of a replacement for a key. You'll never loose it. We use a keypad lock on our vacation rental home. It is very convenient. I can program up to 6 codes so each renter has a unique code based on their personal information. That way, they can't lock themselves out or go home with the key and they will remember it. There's a default code and our own personal code. It is also good for temporary access for workers. Of course, there is a key override in case the battery dies. I think there is a mechanical version, so the electronics can't have issues either.

-Will (Dragonfly)

I agree with you Will I have the same system on my Vacation rental in Fort Myers Beach. It's great for that but for her project I think it is overboard.

 

[Apex]

.....I think it is overboard.

I think so too, as in first time it malfunctions I would chuck it overboard. If you are having trouble finding a key BPS, look at the mechanism, mine didn't even have any key mechanism, a blank would have worked fine, or even a quick file on the cover plate and a screwdriver would work. Wanna get fancy? Just put in a momentary push button switch, security isn't high on a boat anyway, let's not kid ourselves.

 

[dLj]

I dont know offhand. The service manual is for models 1 GM (10 L), 2 GM (F)

How about just a photo of the ignition switch? A close-up of the key slot also would be good.

dj

 

[BitsPerSecond]

Life is kicking my behind, as usual. So no real progress lately.
I'll post those pictures, including the 3d printed part. It needs paint before it can go on the boat and its been raining non-stop. I made a couple mistakes on the part. I extruded from the wrong part of the sketch for the bottom portion so it came out a little big, no big deal. Just have to whip up a spacer piece. Also, I ended up printing it out of PLA because I was out of the flexible filament I was going to use. So the part to hold the hose clamp didn't work out. Oh well. I also forgot to radius or chamfer my corners so it came out a little stringy. Also not a big deal, just more cleanup.

I went to the boat the other day, and attempted to drain the water out of the engine. Need to winterize it, but the antifreeze wasn't here yet. Will hopefully deal with that Wednesday. Luckily it isn't supposed to be cold enough to be a problem.

 

[BitsPerSecond]

So not gonna lie, I suck at remembering this and I just kinda forgot this existed. So I'm gonna necro my own thread.

A lot has happened. I flunked out of grad school after my grades slipped. I got back on my feet, got readmitted. Finally graduated. Only took me almost four years to get my masters. Having trouble finding a 'real' job. I've been an adjunct at the university this semester. Which I thought would be great as far as "time to work on the boat", but that didn't work out because my car has been out of commission.

I never ended up moving her. Due to a variety of reasons it was just easier to keep her in the water for now. More expensive, but that's okay. We all know if really cared about money I wouldn't have kept the boat. I actually think it worked out in my favor with some of the things that have happened since then (without writing you guys a novel).

Progress has been slow (even by rebuild standards), but there has been progress. A lot of it has just been fixing things to prevent further damage like patching damage from a storm, making a fender board, replacing the bilge pump, fixing leaky bits like the mast boot, that kind of thing.

I'll try to remember to do a good write-up, but a quick list of some of it:

- installed that 3d printed vent over the old dorade hole
- cobbled together 1 working solar fan from two broken ones
- installed the solar fan on a temporary box over the other dorade hole
- installed semi-permanent/"temporary" lightning and other electrics (fuses etc)
- cleaned/sealed/painted the fuel tank compartment
- cleaned the fuel tank inside and out
- fabricated and installed larger inspection hatches in the fuel tank
- pressure tested and re-installed the fuel tank
- redesigned overkill fuel filters / fuel manifold
- built and installed new fuel filter system
- replaced fuel fill hose (but not the actual fuel fill...yet)
- tried (and mostly failed) to take a sailing class

I recently bought some "new" (very gently used) batteries from someone that was upgrading to lithium. So installing those soon.
I've been avoiding installing the new fuel fill because of the fiberglass work that will entail (I can do it I just don't want to).
Oh and I never did finish inventorying everything. I'd rather spend my time on actual progress.

Right now, I think the only thing keeping me from sailing is replacing the halyards and reattaching the boom. There are messenger lines up the mast that I've avoiding dealing with. I believe the boom was removed for convenience and not because of any issues. So fingers crossed. I will likely need both to get the new batteries onto the boat because the weigh about 100 pounds each.

As for the engine, I've done maintenance on it. I have a bunch of parts for it. Mostly whats left on it is minor maintenance (new belts, new zincs, oil change, etc) and routing the new fuel hose from the filters to the engine and back to the tank. The hoses I just haven't done because it involved routing the hoses in an inaccessible part of the bilge. I'm tempted to remove that last scrap of cabin sole but it is very tight to the hull.

So short term plan right now. I'm gonna super busy through mid December with work.
Ideally, I want to have her sailing by new years day, for the frostbite "race". Might be a big ask depending on the issues I encounter.
Failing that I would at least like to have her motoring around and in a condition where I can raft up / camp on board.

 

[jssailem]

Welcome back Chris
Boat rebuilds are a start and stop type of project. Pleased to hear you still have the beast/boat and are still working to get her sailing.

You mentioned “zincs” in your text. While they’re are often called zinc’s the better term is sacrificial anodes. In a fresh water lake it is better to use sacrificial anodes made from magnesium or aluminum. It looks like you have the boat on a lake in Tennessee. Check with other boaters on your dock as to what they are using.

The last picture shared of your project was in 2018. We look forward to seeing what progress you have accomplished.

Know that sailing is not like Grad school. You really never stop learning about sailing, and for sure you never flunk out of sailing.

Before you untie the lines to go racing this winter, inspect the wire rigging (standing rigging) that is holding up the mast on the boat. If this seems daunting ask one of the racing boat owners to take a look. No good comes from jumping into competition and finding out the mast is not ready.

 

[dLj]

Know that sailing is not like Grad school. You really never stop learning about sailing, and for sure you never flunk out of sailing.

Well, I agree with the never stop learning part, but running around and breaking your boat is kinda like flunking out...

dj

 

[jssailem]

DJ.. what grades are you giving yourself…
I thought breaking in your boat was part of the fun… You then get to refurbish her.
It is not flunking out just getting a lower grade on your preparation.

 

[BitsPerSecond]

Welcome back Chris
Boat rebuilds are a start and stop type of project. Pleased to hear you still have the beast/boat and are still working to get her sailing.

You mentioned “zincs” in your text. While they’re are often called zinc’s the better term is sacrificial anodes. In a fresh water lake it is better to use sacrificial anodes made from magnesium or aluminum. It looks like you have the boat on a lake in Tennessee. Check with other boaters on your dock as to what they are using.

The last picture shared of your project was in 2018. We look forward to seeing what progress you have accomplished.

Know that sailing is not like Grad school. You really never stop learning about sailing, and for sure you never flunk out of sailing.

Before you untie the lines to go racing this winter, inspect the wire rigging (standing rigging) that is holding up the mast on the boat. If this seems daunting ask one of the racing boat owners to take a look. No good comes from jumping into competition and finding out the mast is not ready.

Yeah, race is in quotation marks for a reason. Its not a proper race. They just call it one for fun. I know shes not ready for proper racing.
I have had a couple of the guys from the sailing club out to take a look at her already, probably shortly after I quit posting. They gave her a clean bill of health. Planning to have one of them come go over the rigging with me again before I try sailing her.

As for the "zincs", I've always heard the two terms used interchangeably. I have some spares that came with the boat, I'm gonna have to double check what they are. I'll ask around.

DJ.. what grades are you giving yourself…
I thought breaking in your boat was part of the fun… You then get to refurbish her.
It is not flunking out just getting a lower grade on your preparation.

Thanks. Progress is progress. I'll get her there.
I guess I should have given more context. I signed up for a local sailing class over the summer. But I ended up missing most of it because I took a job that made me miss the first two weeks and then my roommate was in the hospital. So yeah, failed to take the class, not failed the class. haha.

 

[Tally Ho]

.
As for the "zincs", I've always heard the two terms used interchangeably. I have some spares that came with the boat, I'm gonna have to double check what they are. I'll ask around.


Thanks. Progress is progress. I'll get her there.

I have used the terms interchangeably too. And always used zincs even in fresh water. But now I know that Magnesium works best in my waters (and aluminum is OK), that is what I use and try to be specific that they are anodes and not necessarily “zinc”.

Keep working on the boat, as you said, you will get there.

Do you have any boat friends to lean on? Or handy friends who would like to learn about working on boats? That could shorten the refit time substantially.

If you stick with it, you will learn a ton, and know your boat very well.

Prioritize the issues and that can help you figure out what needs to be done before you can start sailing…then work on the less serious stuff as time permits (while you can still get a sail or 2 in each week). If you can’t make it fun, you won’t stick with it.

I am jealous that you can keep the boat in the water all winter. I had to pull Tally Ho out a few weeks ago…and she is winterized and covered for the winter. I did go out this week and remove the prop so I can measure for a new Max Prop feathering prop.

Always something to tinker with on a Good Old Boat

Greg

 

[jssailem]

If you can’t make it fun, you won’t stick with it.

 

[BitsPerSecond]

Let's see if I can dig up some photos of the last couple of years.

Fuel Tank Clean-up (Circa 2019-2020)

I knew that Sam had issues with the diesel because he had recently had the injectors rebuilt after at least one of them got trashed. So I took a look at the tank. It had a serious case of diesel bug. Some of the stuff that came out of the tank was almost like gravel. It was bad. There was a significant layer of sludge also. I drained the diesel out of tank 5 gallons at a time and took it to a local oil recycle place that said they could use it. Then I pulled the tank and took it home. Once home, I opened it up and got to cleaning.



Not a great picture but you can kind of see some of the gravelly crud that was in the tank in the bottom of the bucket. I cleaned the inside of the tank. Then steamed it to kill anything inside the tank. The next issue I noticed while cleaning the tank was the inspection ports. They were tiny. I could barely get my forearm into the hole and my arms are skinny. This made it difficult to access many areas of the tank. Since I plan on owning the boat for a long time and the tank was otherwise in good shape I decided to install new ones.

I considered the sea-built aftermarket product but they are pricey. Probably well worth the money but I have tools.
IIRC they were $400+ (COVID prices) and I needed to two of them, one for each side of the baffle. They are nothing fancy just a cover and a split backing ring with gaskets. So I made my own. Honestly the longest part of the process was waiting for the guy at the shop to fix the waterjet and then finally getting fed up and doing it with one of the mills. Aluminum is pretty easy to work with with wood tools, so this is definitely a project that could be done without the fancy cnc mill. You just have to mind your feeds/speeds or it can gunk up your tools.

First order of business was to decide on the size I wanted. Since I was fabricating these myself I could have my them any size/shape I wanted but I chose to go with circles. IIRC, I went with 6" access holes and 8" covers. I sketched the design up in CADD and cut a plastic template so I could look at possible placements. I played with the placement/orientation of the template until all but one of the old screw holes was covered by the new bolt holes / access holes.

There was no helping the outlier hole as it wasn't part of the screw pattern for my old covers and it was only on one of the covers. I'm assuming it was an oops when the covers were originally installed. I opted to just plug the outlier screw hole as it is well within my gaskets. Our rogue screw hole was over drilled slightly and then tapped for the nearest size bolt. I ran a bolt into the hole with a diesel resistant sealant then cut it flush on top. I probably could've just left the hole and it would've been fine with the gasket and the backing plate,but I felt better plugging it.

To make the new holes in the tank and get everything lined up the way I wanted, I started with another template. I took my laser cut template from earlier and transferred the access hole to a piece of scrap plywood and marked the locations of the new bolts. I used the new bolt locations for a couple self taping screws to attach the new template directly to the tank. Because the screw holes line up with the bolt locations they will just get drilled out later. Then we used an endmill in my router, with a template bushing to mill out the new access hole. Then I drilled the bolt holes out to the appropriate sizes.



These are just the pictures I could find easily. I know I have more somewhere.

The new covers have a split backing ring that folds in half, much like the sea-built version. There are 8 bolts in each cover, 4 in each half. Three of the four bolts are tapped into the backing ring and a through hole in the tank. The fourth has through hole in the backing plate and a tapped hole in the tank. The result of this is that you can remove all the nuts/washers without the whole mess falling into the tank.

The last picture is a test fit of the the cleaned up tank. The PVC caps are just there to keep crud out.
With the new inspection ports installed, I can now reach every corner of the tank!

With the new covers installed the tank was pressure tested on my bench at 3 PSI for 24 hours. No leaks.