MD17C rebuild

[BobM]

Did you check the valve timing? A friend of mine rebuilt his diesel and spent months telling mechanics what was wrong with it to no avail. He finally had one come in and didn't say anything. The guy set the valve timing and it now runs beautifully. No compression...no ignition. Simple as that.

 

[Mark Maulden]

Hmmm... well compression tests show 380/380/400 lbs.....spec'd at 17.5 ratio....

 

[sailcruiser]

Mark my MD17c hates the cold. It starts right up during the summer but during cold she fights me pretty hard. I don't have glow plugs but considering it. (I kept the info.). SC

 

[Mark Maulden]

SC, this one is about three sessions of 5 sec cranks with smoke. Then runs about 100rpm until it clears. Yours??? I don't crank long to save the starter. This weekend, I'm going to try and crank some with fuel off and then see what it does.

 

[sailcruiser]

SC, this one is about three sessions of 5 sec cranks with smoke. Then runs about 100rpm until it clears. Yours??? I don't crank long to save the starter. This weekend, I'm going to try and crank some with fuel off and then see what it does.

Mine is about the same under 50 degrees and worse around freezing. Let me know what you learn! SC

 

[Mark Maulden]

Started it today. It was in the high 40s. Started a lot better, however, with a lot of throttle. I did motor a mile to another dock and back on Monday to pull the mast. I ran it pretty hard. About nine hrs on the engine so far.

 

[BobM]

If you are in a slip

Mark my MD17c hates the cold. It starts right up during the summer but during cold she fights me pretty hard. I don't have glow plugs but considering it. (I kept the info.). SC

A dipstick heater might be the cheapest and easiest solution.

 

[bria46]

I don't know if your Volvo has glow plug, but if it does, easy Solution. Replace the glow plugs. I did that on my Westerbeke 10-2. It was cheap and easy to DYI. The black smoke went away on the first crank. This suggestion was from a factory trained Westerbeke Service Tech

 

[Mark Maulden]

no glow plugs by design. However, there is a retro kit available. I have blown hot air down the intakes at the heads with no difference. My mast gets planted on thur and then since I have to replace a ruted fuel line, I think I'll pull injectors and the pump and have them rebuilt. This is the latest advice from several diesel techs. After that, I'm done. The dipstick htr is intriguing though. Might be a good experiment If I can find one cheap.

 

[Mark Maulden]

Update: Mast is back in so I disassembled the fuel system and also part of cooling system. Objective was to remove the injector pump as I can get it rebuilt for ~$350. I also need to replace two high pressure injector lines. About 1.5 hrs of work. Right? Right. All was well until I tried to get injector pump out. I can't even get a sharp corner of a putty knife under any part of the flange. I've rapped on it with a 1/2" extension and hammer (not to aggressively). Also, need to save the gasket as it determines timing....So, now I'm stuck. For something that is supposed to come apart, I've never run across something like this. And, I don't know how "hard" I can hit it...

 

[Mark Maulden]

Got brave and tapped a 3" wide beveled chisel under the flange. Got it out but destroyed the gasket. I've been told by several diesel mechs that these "gaskets" are actually shims that are (or have to be) reusable. This is definately not a reusable gasket and the book actually calls it a gasket and not a shim. So, now I'm going to have to go through the timing procedure. Sorta strange as this gasket compresses when the bolts are torqued down. (assumed as I haven't seen the new one)

 

[Mark Maulden]

Got the report back on the injector pump. The delivery valves are scored and all the rubber seals are old/hard/flat. The plunger assemblies are still good. So, in a week or so I should be reassembling. Not a guarantee it will solve the starting problem but this is as far as I'm taking it. There's not much more I can do to it!! I also need to do everything possible to find out what scored the valves... Somehow, particulates had to get in there prior to when I bought the boat. The fuel line between the secondary filter and injector pump is the only thing still original so I think I'll replace it "just because"....

 

[Mark Maulden]

Got the injector pump back. The technician said it was definately showing it's "age" with bad supply valves and defunct/dried out/flat seals. He stated that the seals were probably letting air in. So, sometime this week will get it installed and timed. The local shop will do the install as I don't have the capability to perform depth micrometer measurements in fractional mm for timing. Then I'll put the rest of the fuel/cooling system together and we'll see what happens. Probably next weekend!!!! This reinforces my reason for using a good fuel additive. With my previous boats, it's always been Stanadyne and it will still continue to be.

 

[Mark Maulden]

Got things put back together and It runs worse than before. I put it in gear and advance the throttle and it stays at idle!!!! It will throttle up out of gear. Took some carb cleaner and sprayed all the fittings. No difference....When will this end?.......

 

[GeorgiaBII]

Did you bleed the air out of the system?

 

[Mark Maulden]

three times

 

[John Howitt]

I feel your pain.
My injector pump is out getting a rebuild.and I haven't spent half the money or time as you have.
Hope it gets better for you

 

[Mark Maulden]

This engine still does not start and run correctly. Currently, won't even start. We removed two gaskets under injector pump to adv the timing and no difference. We have 400lbs compression. Valve timing is gear to gear so chance of timing jump is nil. Even the mechanics are stumped. We're thinking of going in through the timing cover inspection plate and disconnecting linkage between governor and pump and operating pump rack manually to see what happens. This should show if it's pump or governor. If we can physically do it. But the governor worked before we removed/rebuilt the pump. The throttle lever actually works the governor and the governor then controls the pump. So I'm thinking the rebuild has problems. Another $85/hr experiment. If it's the pump, then I'm going after the rebuild house for compensation.....Hmmmm..

 

[Mark Maulden]

We couldn't do the experiment above, but we removed the injector pump and verified the linkage was still hooked up etc. We thought we had the problem licked as the Volvo manual shows a different injector tube schematic than how I hooked it up. Fortunately, I took pix of the fuel tube assembly before I took it apart. Then, found the firing order and the Volvo schematic in the manual is wrong. Drat..... Pump goes back to the rebuilder tomorrow a.m. Also, talked to a Volvo dealer and they stated that these pumps can be hard to bleed when installed dry (faint memory recollect). I don't see why as the supply valves are on the top. I'm going to talk to a few more people. If the pump is OK, then there has to be a big air problem somewhere. Everything is new and tight and I sprayed all fittings with carb cleaner when last running to see if it made a difference. With an electric lift pump, if there was a leak, you'd think it would leak under pressure............

 

[MSter]

Mark,
Been following your rebuild and am impressed with the effort and your persistence. When I was rebuilding an older Harley I was able to trouble shoot air leaks in the fuel line/carb by spraying with WD-40. The engine would speed up or smooth out if the WD-40 was drawn in at a leak in a hose clamp or carb connection. Needs to be running first though.
Good Luck !
MSter