MD17C rebuild

Jan 25, 2011
2,403
S2 11.0A Anacortes, WA
Going to start on Sunday10/30. Maybe FWC system, starter, manifold and dig into cyclinders as time permits. Have to figure out where to dispose of antifreeze. Get it all apart and appropriate parts sent to machine shop before my foot surgery. And then order the parts I'm going to need to re assemble. I'd like to figure out a way to relocate the heat exch so I can get injectors out without FWC disassembly. If anything weird happens, I'l try and photograph.
 

BobM

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Jun 10, 2004
3,269
S2 9.2A Winthrop, MA
Good luck Mark

When boat shopping we found what seemed to be a great deal on a Cape Dory Intrepid. Half the price of the same boat repowered. The owner had put some money into the Volvo MD11 and it ran fine. We ultimately decided on our S2 instead, due to the T shaped cockpit and more head room. The only thing I could ever find to justify the lower price for that Intrepid was the well known lousy parts availability for old Volvo diesels.
 
Jan 25, 2011
2,403
S2 11.0A Anacortes, WA
Ok.. I had to post this. I started a day early and got the coolant drained and disposed of (legally), work area setup, etc. In order to get access to the first cylinder coolant drain, It would be a lot easier to remove the starter which I was going to do anyway as I'm going to open it up. So, the very, very first nut to remove on this whole project was seized!!!!! It was the the post for the big starter wire. Tried kerosene, liquid wrench, some freeze stuff from CRC etc. Ended up twisting the stud off.....Good start!!!! It was surprising as I had this off six months ago when I rewired......
 
Oct 24, 2011
258
Lancer 28 Grand Lake
If you are burning oil, its the piston rings. If you are burning that much oil, you are not going to sort it with some new rings. What i would do, is get the block re bored, new pistons, I wouldnt bother with the bearings, its not them that are causing the problem. However, if you are going to do the labour yourself, and that means taking the engine apart, if you did the bearings, and the cylinders, you would effectively have a new engine. I used to be a mechanic, so i know what i am talking about, but, what you should really do, is a compression check to see what is happening, you could find its something simple, like a blocked breather, that is causing too much back pressure. I would look at the simple things first, even if it means leaving the oil cap off and running the engine, and seeing how much oil it uses. After that, i would go for the big things. You used to be able to get oversised rings for volvo, and they made a huge difference, you had to use a glaze breaker on the bores first, then you just put the same pistons back in with the oversize rings, dont know if you can still get them.
 
Jan 25, 2011
2,403
S2 11.0A Anacortes, WA
thanks for the thoughts. And you're absolutely right about cylinder boring etc. Not sure if you're aware of this particular engine design. It has external cylinders that have liners. So, instead of overboring and oversize pistons/rings, it would mean new liner/piston/rings. Oil pressure is still within new specs so I'm not touching the crank/cam. All this can be done leaving the block in the boat. Oil breather stays dry when running. Increase in power and it starts leaving a smoke screen. It's better when gets to temp. I had a sistership with same engine some 25 yrs ago and I had to do the same thing. Boat was never used and never broke in properly......
 
Jan 25, 2011
2,403
S2 11.0A Anacortes, WA
alright!!! I"m down to two cylinders to remove. Both of those heads are stuck to the cylinder. The head has to come off first and then the cylinder and then the bolts. Can't pull the bolts first as they hit the cockpit sole. So, cannot remove head and cyclinder at same time. Any ideas how to separate the two? Have smacked with big deadblow. (rubber hammer). Thought about driving a putty knife at the gasket line. I don't want to "mar" the mating surfaces.....
 
Sep 6, 2011
435
I think volvo loves loctite. I have a William issue with the saildrive. I bought some liquid gasket remover and will let you know if it works. I'm leery of heat bt it may come to that. SC
 
Jan 25, 2011
2,403
S2 11.0A Anacortes, WA
I got em... got rid of the deadblow and tapped underside of heads with a carpenter's hammer. No surprises!! Friday is trip to the machinist...
 

manus

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Nov 5, 2011
13
Westsail 32 Vallejo
Hopefully, since the MD17c is saltwater-only cooled, your cooling passages aren't clogged. This was the death knell of my old MD17c. Something to think about before spending dollars for an overhaul....
 
Jan 25, 2011
2,403
S2 11.0A Anacortes, WA
This one is factory fresh water cooled. Looked surprisingly clean!!!! Hopefully, Mon/Tue will know results of machinist measurements. Then order parts.
 
Jan 25, 2011
2,403
S2 11.0A Anacortes, WA
Results are in:
heads pass pressure chk-don't have to replace injector sleeves
valves ok but need work along with seats
guides ok
stem seals really bad
cylinder liners are still well within spec and hone out well
manifold ok
heat exchanger ok

Life is good!! Rings/gaskets/machine work and back together it goes!!!!
 
Jan 25, 2011
2,403
S2 11.0A Anacortes, WA
And, I guess I have to stand corrected on the fresh water cooling!!!! After the hot tank process, I found a stamp on the heat exchanger that said "Seattle Radiator" with a number..... It had to have had the conversion early in life cuz the cooling passages are now looking new after tanking....I have to admit the conversion is factory looking....
 
Jan 25, 2011
2,403
S2 11.0A Anacortes, WA
Waiting for paint (engine) to dry, I was perusing MPE schematics and I found the exact same installation as mine for FWC. So, it does appears to be factory. Everything on the drawing has Volvo Part numbers. The only difference is the dwgs show heater hose where my installation is all hard copper tubing outside the engine which is going to be interesting as it looks like it all has to go together at the same time....
 
Sep 6, 2011
435
Mark Maulden said:
Waiting for paint (engine) to dry, I was perusing MPE schematics and I found the exact same installation as mine for FWC. So, it does appears to be factory. Everything on the drawing has Volvo Part numbers. The only difference is the dwgs show heater hose where my installation is all hard copper tubing outside the engine which is going to be interesting as it looks like it all has to go together at the same time....
But Seattle Radiator when built in Michigan? Maybe done shortly after new?
 
Jan 25, 2011
2,403
S2 11.0A Anacortes, WA
Who knows?? Maybe Seattle radiator did some work (or replaced) on the heat exch. and stamped it....All the pump brackets/pump/small parts etc have Volvo part numbers per dwg, but still could have been a conversion. I just pulled the liners out of the cylinders. Sure does NOT look like any salt water has been in there or in the manifold...Currently, shopping around for parts. Decided to also replace pistons as one had scuffing and one had "some" and decided to just replace all three. Found some good deals so far. This post sure has a lot of views. I have some foot surgery scheduled for 11/28 which will lay me up for about 3-4 weeks after that. So, probably not much progress then....
 
Jul 1, 1998
3,062
Hunter Legend 35 Poulsbo/Semiahmoo WA
Geeze Mark - I could'a told ya...

Unfortunately, I just started reading your post and the replies right now and after reading the your original first post I was thinking I should say something but then I read this:

Ok.. I had to post this. ....In order to get access to the first cylinder coolant drain, It would be a lot easier to remove the starter which I was going to do anyway as I'm going to open it up. So, the very, very first nut to remove on this whole project was seized!!!!! It was the the post for the big starter wire. Tried kerosene, liquid wrench, some freeze stuff from CRC etc. Ended up twisting the stud off.....Good start!!!!
Yup! *stuff* happens. And on a boat, boat engine, this is probably going to be what one is going to encounter.

What gets me is you said the bolt was off just a few months before. Dang it anyway, right?

I kinda grew up with Liquid Wrench so that's an old standby in my garage. I got some new stuff which is supposed to be better but I don't remember the name of it. Hopefully the rest of the project goes better.

We like to read about projects in progress but please don't forge ahead until we get a chance to ridicule.... I mean.... help with ideas. Can't believe I said it that way.

Now to read the rest of the replies.
 
Jul 1, 1998
3,062
Hunter Legend 35 Poulsbo/Semiahmoo WA
Valve Stem Seals

I had this same issue with a '63 Falcon that I had. Rand good but smoked.

Results are in:
stem seals really bad
The engine was burning quite a bit of oil and I replaced the valve stem seals and that totally stopped the smoking. The seals were really hard like bakelite and, in fact, actually cracked while the new ones were soft and pliable.

If the valve guides are good then that should cure the smoking problem.

For anybody that's interested, just remembered the old test for this: go down a steep hill with the engine on compression and stand on it at the bottom. If there is a cloud of smoke behind you then it's likely to be valve stem stem seals. Kinda hard to do with a boat though. :)
 
Sep 6, 2011
435
Mark what color was this smoke? I'm keeping an eye on our MD17 for issues. It was smoking a bit at the end of the season as it got colder. At haul out she really struggled to start but it was also 35*F. It's something I plan to watch and will get into in the Spring. She did start on the cradle for winterizing and was smoking pretty good. I did note having burned about a half a quart in about 75 hours of run time. Hope the surgery goes smoothly. SC
 
Jan 25, 2011
2,403
S2 11.0A Anacortes, WA
Upon starting, I had a smoke screen of blue and grey smoke. Blue from oil and grey from fuel with a lot of cranking. After it cleared and got to temp, it was just a constant slight blue. I went to order my piston kits and the lists identify quantity of three for the price. So, I thought one kit consisted of three pistons/ring sets/pin. WRONG....One kit=one piston/rings/pin...the "3" means three required for the engine. So, I added up prices and then looked into the cylinder liner kits. For the total engine, the liner kits (includes piston kit and o-ring kit etc) added up to just a couple hundred more for all three. So, might as well go all the way. BTW, two of the pistons showed scuffing which I thought was OK. I was talking with a mechanic on the dock he volunteered to look at them. He said "replace two maybe the third is OK"....Oh well, I was prepared to do this when I first started...I'll have close to $2K in this engine.
 
Jan 25, 2011
2,403
S2 11.0A Anacortes, WA
Sitting here on my hands waiting for parts. supposed to be here late this week or around next Tue. Foot surgery on Monday which will lay me up for three weeks. I might have the local mech stuff the cylinders and connect them to the rods and make the neccessary mic depth measurements. Hopefully, the current shims will work. Everything is painted and I'll build it from there. Shouldn't take him to long. Few hrs. Took the starter apart and aside from my broken solenoid post from wrenching on the nut, it seems to run fine. Pulled the brushes out and they're still quite new and commutator is good. Now that it's apart, going to replace bushings/grease etc and clean it up. It was acting up a bit and now I think it's the small (probably corroded) primary wire to the solenoid. I also find a terminal strip under the cockpit combing that the whole instrument panel goes to. Not good. Probably why my tach is off. I can rewire that in short order. Maybe I can go down and do some work with a bandaged leg on crutches.....Will need pix for that
Happy thanksgiving everybody...Mark