Unfortunately I do not have experience doing Formica with epoxy. You might call the help line at West Systems and see if they can answer...
I just know the epoxy will stick to the epoxy...
dj
Looking for ideas on galley remodel
- Thread starter fred1diver
- Start date
I just know the epoxy will stick to the epoxy...
dj
Did you sand the epoxied surface before applying the contact adhesive? Cured epoxy leaves a very slick surface, making it difficult for non-epoxy substances to stick to it. Also, some epoxy will leave an amine blush (waxy film) when it cures, especially in high humidity. This film is water soluble, so you should be able to wipe it off with a damp rag. Maybe your epoxy left this layer that prevented the contact cement from spreading evenly.
The surface needs to be very clean (no dust, oil) and smooth so there is as close to 100% contact between both surfaces (formica and substrate).
Quick update of today’s work
Dry fitted the counter, started making the sink counter
Tomorrow will be a very busy day, will start on the stairs and try to finish the counter
Dry fitted the counter, started making the sink counter
Tomorrow will be a very busy day, will start on the stairs and try to finish the counter
Attachments
Ok worked a bit on it today, making progress, well, was, I wanted to clean up the wiring and it is turning out to be a real pain.
But it will be worth it in the end
I made the main stair panel, still a bit of fine tuning left, and cut the steps.
But it will be worth it in the end
I made the main stair panel, still a bit of fine tuning left, and cut the steps.
Attachments
To add to @UpperPintle 's post, if you used West Systems epoxy, the amine blush must be washed off with soap and water before sanding. Sanding does not remove it - it drives it into the grooves making it even harder to remove. It's in the West Systems manual, along with most everything else you ever wanted to know about epoxy.
BTW, I admire your ambition and progress.
BTW, I admire your ambition and progress.
Worked hard again tokay, but no pictures today!
Painted/sealed the wood trim used for the stair/sink countertop, epoxied the stair back panel and some more parts, started working/cutting on the steps, need to round them off at the corners and the edges… more to come tomorrow
Painted/sealed the wood trim used for the stair/sink countertop, epoxied the stair back panel and some more parts, started working/cutting on the steps, need to round them off at the corners and the edges… more to come tomorrow
jssailem
SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
- Oct 22, 2014
- 22,945
Fred. Have you considered how you will stop the crew from stepping into the sink as they enter the boat through the companion way while the boat is beating hard to port in a storm?
I would have placed the sink on the starboard counter area to keep it clear of companionway. A slip on wet stair step and foot into the sink could result in fall onto cabin sole & serious injury. I had that happen a couple years ago that scared the hell out of me as I lay on the sole in severe pain. Thankfully no sink involved & just severe bruising. At minimum an insert to cover the sink with bracing on bottom side to firmly capture & retain the sink insert should be placed when not using sink or underway. The insert can also expand the working surface area.
Hello everybody
Worked very hard today, did not have time to take pictures of everything we did today, but we managed to finally remove the port salon window, which has an aluminium frame, held by interior screws, seems simple, at least the starboard one was, this one was held in place with the dreaded 5200
Started working on it yesterday and finished removing it today end of day.
my wife worked so hard on that, bless her soul.
managed to install the counter and glass it in place, tomorrow comes the laminate
Did some carpentry for the galley/stairs.
Very happy, still a lot to do
Worked very hard today, did not have time to take pictures of everything we did today, but we managed to finally remove the port salon window, which has an aluminium frame, held by interior screws, seems simple, at least the starboard one was, this one was held in place with the dreaded 5200
Started working on it yesterday and finished removing it today end of day.
my wife worked so hard on that, bless her soul.
managed to install the counter and glass it in place, tomorrow comes the laminate
Did some carpentry for the galley/stairs.
Very happy, still a lot to do
Attachments
Going to start on the cabinets next week.
Still a lot to do before splashing
Our club is finally putting the docks in this weekend, late start due to high water levels, was supposed to splash next Tuesday (even took the day off for it) but they moved it a week
Oh well more time to work I guess
Still a lot to do before splashing
Our club is finally putting the docks in this weekend, late start due to high water levels, was supposed to splash next Tuesday (even took the day off for it) but they moved it a week
Oh well more time to work I guess
Ok, time to do cabinet work, drawing a blank on design, have a few ideas, but need more inspirations !
Thinking double height plexi sliding doors for the aft end of the cabinet.
The forward end, I am thinking of a sliding mini cabinet that houses the coffee maker and coffee storage in the back of it.
Besides it I am thinking about having the butane stove on locking sliders so it is easy to put away, on top of that I was thinking of T slots to hold the dishes.
Still debating a few options.
Would like some input on these ideas
I keep looking on the net for ideas, keep finding a lot, but my counter to the top is only 14” high at the high end.
so is a double high sliding door cabinet a good idea or do I make it single height door with a shelf inside?
For the stove, do I make the opening larger to hold the coffee cups on the side? Or make it around 16.5” and make the top 17” wide to hold the dishes?
Or do I make the top wider to have more room for them?
I already have the tracks for the sliding panels.
The wood will be birch (we want a lighter colour for the inside) epoxied and varnished,
Side note, birch is tougher to route than I thought.
the plexi panels will be black for contrast.
In front of the stove slider shelf I plan on installing a plexi panel with wood trim to complement the cabinet.
The coffee maker will have a small fiddle on the bottom and a birch panel to hide the top of it(filter housing)
I am open to comments and suggestions
thank you in advance
Thinking double height plexi sliding doors for the aft end of the cabinet.
The forward end, I am thinking of a sliding mini cabinet that houses the coffee maker and coffee storage in the back of it.
Besides it I am thinking about having the butane stove on locking sliders so it is easy to put away, on top of that I was thinking of T slots to hold the dishes.
Still debating a few options.
Would like some input on these ideas
I keep looking on the net for ideas, keep finding a lot, but my counter to the top is only 14” high at the high end.
so is a double high sliding door cabinet a good idea or do I make it single height door with a shelf inside?
For the stove, do I make the opening larger to hold the coffee cups on the side? Or make it around 16.5” and make the top 17” wide to hold the dishes?
Or do I make the top wider to have more room for them?
I already have the tracks for the sliding panels.
The wood will be birch (we want a lighter colour for the inside) epoxied and varnished,
Side note, birch is tougher to route than I thought.
the plexi panels will be black for contrast.
In front of the stove slider shelf I plan on installing a plexi panel with wood trim to complement the cabinet.
The coffee maker will have a small fiddle on the bottom and a birch panel to hide the top of it(filter housing)
I am open to comments and suggestions
thank you in advance
