Hunter (e)33 - Issues, Concerns and Solutions

Scott B · Jul 31, 2012

Hey Serena... congratulations .... finally

Don't worry, you'll look back shortly on all the good sails you'll have. I can't believe we're now on our 6th season, but remember the long wait over the couple of winter months until we could get in the water.

Dunham, the boat will take more than you're willing to withstand

We've been in heavy weather a few times and I'm impressed how she handles it,... the boat that is.... My wife gets nervous when the bow buries into the waves and we have water crashing into the cockpit. Me, I just smile and hold on....

Hello Below · Aug 2, 2012

While my boat is at the dealer's, this week, to address some warranty issues, I have been reading through the Hunter's Owner Manual. Three things I want to ask other owners about before I go to pick up my boat tomorrow.

1. The owner's manual Chapter 9 page 7 (9.7) "Fresh Water Layout" shows a water filter just before the water pump. Looks like a good idea but I don't believe I have one. Did a filter come fitted or have you installed one since or are you thinking of installing one?

2. The owner's manual Chapter 10 page 12 (10.12) "Shower Sump Plumbing System (Grey Water)" shows a 3/4" thru-hull with ball valve. I don't remember seeing a ball valve. Does anyone have a ball valve (shut-off ???) fitted on the sump pump discharge hose? And if yes then where is it located?

3. The owner's manual Chapter 10 page 3 (10.3 and just above Fig.10.2) leads one to believe that a copy of "Chapman's Piloting, Seamanship and Boat Handling" comes with the boat. Did anyone receive one?

Ken Honeycutt · Aug 2, 2012

Dunham,

Just a suggestion but have you considered buying a small wet/dry shop vac. I use this to suck out my bilge after every weekend on the boat. Saves a lot of hassle with the manual pump.

GreggL · Aug 2, 2012

Not sure about the through hull, I'll have a look as well.
Also haven't seen any filters in the fresh water system.
I do however have a copy of chapmans that came with mine.

Scott B · Aug 3, 2012

1. filter would be a sediment filter, if there is one, stainless steel screen, attached to the water pump, not a separate filter.

2. you should learn where ALL your thru-hulls are located in case of emergency. Mine are all located under the floor at the base of the stairs ( older 33). The location (s) will be listed in your manual. Check yours out and its also good practice to close them when you leave the boat.

2. check for your thru-hulls as soon as you get to the boat, first thing, right away......... have you looked yet ?????

kloudie1 · Aug 3, 2012

Fresh Water Strainer

Here is the fresh water straineer in my old 34.. the little blue topped mesh strainer.. It keeps the larger rodents and reptiles and rocks out of the pump.. but I wouldn't call it a filter.. If ya have one, it is probably very similar.

Hello Below · Aug 3, 2012

Scott B said:
1. filter would be a sediment filter, if there is one, stainless steel screen, attached to the water pump, not a separate filter.

2. you should learn where ALL your thru-hulls are located in case of emergency. Mine are all located under the floor at the base of the stairs ( older 33). The location (s) will be listed in your manual. Check yours out and its also good practice to close them when you leave the boat.

2. check for your thru-hulls as soon as you get to the boat, first thing, right away......... have you looked yet ?????

Scott, I located all the thru hulls that exist below the water line and their shut off valves when my boat was hauled for the 30 day/25 hour sail drive oil change at delivery. I also know where the thru holes are that are above the water line. The Hunter owner's manual (see above) shows a ball shut off valve on the sump hose leading to it's above water thru hole. My boat is currently with the dealer (7 hours away) so I don't have ready access to it. I don't remember seeing a shut off for the sump. Ergo the post question. I too always close the shut off valves and DC power when I leave the boat.

Scott B · Aug 4, 2012

Hello Below said:
Scott, I located all the thru hulls that exist below the water line and their shut off valves when my boat was hauled for the 30 day/25 hour sail drive oil change at delivery. I also know where the thru holes are that are above the water line. The Hunter owner's manual (see above) shows a ball shut off valve on the sump hose leading to it's above water thru hole. My boat is currently with the dealer (7 hours away) so I don't have ready access to it. I don't remember seeing a shut off for the sump. Ergo the post question. I too always close the shut off valves and DC power when I leave the boat.

Ah, got it. I was thinking thru-hull below waterline and was not thinking about the above water outlet for the shower sump. Mine does not have a ball valve on this line, just the pump.

GreggL · Aug 7, 2012

Serena1 said:
Our boat is still at the dealers dock. Every time we take her out, we come across some things that need work or an adjustment. Our plan to to take her across Lake Ontario to our home marina.

Here is a list of the more significant issues:

Leaking around shower door. After a short navy shower, water drips onto the salon fllor from the corner of the door. Further investigation shows that on the inside of the head, there is a 1/4" gap between the plastic frame around the door and the acrylic wall. This is being looked into today.

Furling issue with forsail. - I beleive this is more my issue, but everytime I go out, our jig will not furl back in. The furling line gets jammed inside the drum. I need to do fore and rotate the sail by hand. What am I doing wrong?

I have been told by the dealer, that last week while working on the boat, they discovered an issue with the water pump and fixed it right away. (Unfortunately, I actually don't even know what was wrong...yet)

Raymarine Seatalk NG connection...this was described in another post....and it's being worked on this week as well.

I feel your frustration. I was having the same issues one after another. Unfortunately my dealership was not addressing them promptly and it was only after a call to hunter that they solved the major problems.
I'm now at my home port and there hasn't been anything new, thankfully. I hope they get it all straightened out for you, it's really a great boat once all these annoyances are solved.

Hello Below · Aug 8, 2012

While waiting for my allocated time at the dealers so they could change out the one 12v house battery with four 6v golf cart batteries that the boat was to come with, I made a loooong list of items (approx. 40) to be addressed. The vast majority was cosmetic and primarily chips and cracks in the gel coat. But there were a few other larger issues such as a noisy top loading freezer/fridge fan and also the fridge intermittently stopped working for a couple days at a time, a leak in the galley hose at the ball valve and steps/engine room door rubbing against the after cabin door trim, V-berth door not latching, some NMEA interfacing issues, etc, etc. Last week, with the exception of a couple, all this issues were addressed. After a somewhat lengthy wait, I am very pleased with their workmanship and very happy with the support I have received from the dealer and his service manager. Neither questioned any of the repairs that were on my list. I could not ask for anything more. I love the boat and love the follow up service I am now receiving.

Hello Below · Aug 8, 2012

Hello Below said:
While my boat is at the dealer's, this week, to address some warranty issues, I have been reading through the Hunter's Owner Manual. Three things I want to ask other owners about before I go to pick up my boat tomorrow.

1. The owner's manual Chapter 9 page 7 (9.7) "Fresh Water Layout" shows a water filter just before the water pump. Looks like a good idea but I don't believe I have one. Did a filter come fitted or have you installed one since or are you thinking of installing one?

2. The owner's manual Chapter 10 page 12 (10.12) "Shower Sump Plumbing System (Grey Water)" shows a 3/4" thru-hull with ball valve. I don't remember seeing a ball valve. Does anyone have a ball valve (shut-off ???) fitted on the sump pump discharge hose? And if yes then where is it located?

3. The owner's manual Chapter 10 page 3 (10.3 and just above Fig.10.2) leads one to believe that a copy of "Chapman's Piloting, Seamanship and Boat Handling" comes with the boat. Did anyone receive one?

Here we are:

1. a Fresh Water Pump Inlet Strainer not a filter is plumbed at the water pump on the inlet side. Installint and inline charcoal filter will now go on the to do list. Also plan on using a sediment (5 or 10 micron) filter with standard garden hose connections for filling the water tank at dockside in the future.;
2. No ball valve on the sump pump hose to the thru hull. Well above water line and beside the auto bilge pump thru hull (which of course will not have a ball valve);
3. No Chapman's from Hunter. I purchased the newest copy last year and highly recomend it for any sailboat owner.

Thanks to all.

GreggL · Aug 12, 2012

Fellow e33 owners,

It seems my dealership made a very serious mistake when installing my in mast furling roller, curious to know what your experiences have been.
I have two settings, ratchet and free. Free allows it to roll either way. Ratchet allows it to roll out but not in. This seems backwards to me, and I believe I am correct. Ivenhad a few very close calls due to this and am in the process of contacting the dealership to rectify it.
How are your rollers set up? Is this normal? Because I have no way of locking the main in the mast if the furling lines slip, which they have..

Scott B · Aug 13, 2012

Gregg, that is set up backwards. Ratchet is to allow you to furl the sail and stop it from coming out in able to reef the main.

Jake N Eggs · Aug 13, 2012

Gregg, make sure that your sail is furled the correct way. The furling winch should turn clockwise when furling in. The sail enters the mast on the starboard side.

Scott is correct, the ratchet should hold the sail from coming out of the mast.

GreggL · Aug 13, 2012

Spoke to selden and yes it was backwards thanks to my dealership labeling the wrong lines so I was pulling it in reverse. All is solved except my continuous line which now needs new splicing.
Thanks!

Hello Below · Aug 14, 2012

Gregg it is surprisng you were able to bring the mail sail all the way in given the mix up of lines. It should be a w h o l e lot easier now. I find turning the bow off the wind so you have about 30 degrees of apparent wind to port and let out the main sheet so the boom is free to point directly into the wind makes reefing/furling the main very easy.

Hello Below · Aug 14, 2012

Here is one for probably any new boat owner with a Dometic CR1065 front loading fridge. This ia a new model from Dometic/Waeco.
I fully understand that front loaders are very ineffecient fridges. When the door is opened cold air flows out just as if it is water. Thus open door as little as possible. The amount of food loaded inside and the ambient temperature have a major effect on run time. So here is the scenario after 6 days of crusing some nights connected to shore power others not.:
fridge pretty well loaded up with pre-chilled food
ambient temp in galley 65 - 75 F
door not opened from 8 PM to 7 AM
temp inside fridge at 8 PM is 40F, temp at 7 AM is 36F
fridge set to about thr 4 out of 7 position.

The problem is the fridge seldom (as in rarely) shuts off. It draws 3.58 amps times 24 hours while at anchor is a big draw on the house bank. (4 x 6v golf cart batteries) Our Waeco top loading freezer/fridge seems to run about 20 minutes every hour with similar contents and when set to the same temp as the front loader.
Comments from other Domtic CR1065 users appreciated.

Hunter (e)33 - Issues, Concerns and Solutions

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