Hunter 41DS asymmetrical spinnaker sheet leads

Jake N Eggs · Jun 24, 2016

My gennaker sheets are led back to a block that I clip onto these loops. The sheets run outside of everything. I did this myself but I did get confirmation that the loos on the back of the arch were for the gennaker sheets. My boat is a little smaller but the principal is the same.

Kermit · Jun 24, 2016

I found this article to be very helpful.
http://www.fxsails.com/spinnarticle2.php
I'm pretty sure you will run your sheets back to blocks attached to those loops. The sheets go forward again to the winches. Good luck and have fun!

uncledom · Jun 27, 2016

MFD do not buy Doyle UPS. Buy a real, socked, Asym chute. As far as the block mount is concerned that is the correct location. I tack mine to the furthest hole on the anchor roller assembly but am working on making a better mounting point just forward of the anchor it's self. I'll post that when it happens.

Jackdaw · Jun 27, 2016

NO WAY I would trust those little braised-on loops on the pulpit to handle the loads of a spinnaker on a 40 foot boat. No way. Way too small, and non-articulating.

That's the builder cheaping out, and not putting proper Winchard D-rings on the deck. With a BIG ratcheting block. That's the proper setup from the builder.

A better setup that does not involve drilling the deck would be to use a block attached to the cleat with a dyneema soft shackle. Like this.

Kermit · Jun 27, 2016

Jackdaw said:
NO WAY I would trust those little braised-on loops on the pulpit to handle the loads of a spinnaker on a 40 foot boat. No way. Way too small, and non-articulating.

That's the builder cheaping out, and not putting proper Winchard D-rings on the deck. With a BIG ratcheting block. That's the proper setup from the builder.

A better setup that does not in love drilling the deck would be to use a block attached to the cleat with a dyneema soft shackle. Like this.

That's what I meant to say.

Phil Herring · Jun 27, 2016

uncledom said:
MFD do not buy Doyle UPS. Buy a real, socked, Asym chute.

A UPS is not an asym chute. They have different purposes and are not interchangeable. Talk to your sailmaker to determine which is right for your intended use.

uncledom · Jun 28, 2016

I'm not sure what you guys think your looking at but that is 2" traveler arch tubing and those weled rings are roughly 1/4 in of stainless. It's all welded not braised. Last time I checked my cleats don't articulate either. They were welded there just to take spinnaker blocks. They work like a dream. I fly my 1192 square foot asym from sheets led back to Harken blocks attached to those rings, NO PROBLEMS.

Ron20324 · Jun 28, 2016

Jackdaw has the close idea, but there is so little distance from either the cleat or that small loop. I suggest using Jackdaw's block and Dyneema line, put the line around that vertical pushpit piece, above that loop, and use that loop to keep the block up in the air. You could also unbolt the base off the deck and put a large SS round ring to attach to, then rebolt. Lash the ring to the vertcal pole, above the little loop.

Jackdaw · Jun 28, 2016

That winch looks VERY close, can the handle even turn? Maybe it's an optical illusion in that picture.

Clearly in any install you need a fair and clear run from wherever the block is to the winch.

Is that little loop strong enough? Pulled on straight under moderate load; well hell maybe. But I know the load our spinnaker comes under, any boat can load one up. When stuff breaks it breaks as the worst time.

uncledom · Jun 28, 2016

It's a lack of depth perception in the picture. I use 10" winch handles with no clearance problems on that winch. It's very strong actually and by the time you add a shackle and the block it's at a perfect angle to the winch bottom so as to wrap properly. I'm more leary about the anchor roller as the tack point. That's a 46 winch, not huge but not small either if that helps with size.

uncledom · Jun 28, 2016

My big question is why's the winch wrapped backwards? LOL

TFlight · Aug 25, 2016

MFD said:
Hi All,
I am thinking about getting an asymmetrical chute - actually one of the Doyle 'Utility Power Sails'.

It is pretty obvious with the attachment at the bow, and the mast has a string where the halyard would go and am empty clutch - but I am a bit unsure on the sheet leads.

The arch has these loops on each side that seem View attachment 125024 View attachment 125025 sturdy and would lead fairly.
See attached pic.

Seems like possibly they were made exactly for this but I am curious how the setup is for those of you that have a spinnaker have the sheets led and if it was setup professionally or if you did it yourself.

Thanks for posting, I had the exact same question about the spinnaker sheet attachment points for my Hunter 41DS.

I'm getting ready to buy a used asymmetrical spinnaker from a neighbor for $400. It appears to be in really good shape with only two small repair in the read panel from a hungry mouse and the sock needs a small repair.

I'm not sure it's a perfect match as I think the dimensions are off a little.. I think the Foot is a bit large at 29' 7" and the Luff 45' 9" and Leech 42' 7" are a bit small.
The "I" and "J" dimensions according to the manual are I =51' 6", J = 13' 0". So my understanding is an ideal Foot should be 23' to 26' and Leech 49' to 51' , so I'm told. I thinking for $400 it's worth a try.

uncledom · Aug 25, 2016

Luff = 52.99, Leech = 49.51, Foot =29, Area = 1192.76 on a 41AC. I usually fly it solo as it's more sail area than my jib and main combined.

TFlight · Aug 25, 2016

uncledom said:
Luff = 52.99, Leech = 49.51, Foot =29, Area = 1192.76 on a 41AC. I usually fly it solo as it's more sail area than my jib and main combined.

How do you attach the Tack line? Do you somehow route it back to the cockpit to the starboard winch and if so how. I have the higher deck salon and don't want it to rub on my gelcoat . Or do you cleat it off on deck limiting adjustments?

Thanks

uncledom · Aug 25, 2016

I use a 15' piece of line tied to the tack, run through a D ring on the most forward hole in the anchor roller center rib and tied off to a bow cleat. It's adjustable but not under a large load unless your Hercules. I am designing an A frame style sprite to put the tack further forward in front of the anchor and then will work on a dedicated tack line run to the cockpit. That will be fully adjustable. You could slack a jib sheet, tie the tack line to that and control it from the cockpit. It. Would be a reasonable cheat.

TFlight · Aug 29, 2016

uncledom said:
I use a 15' piece of line tied to the tack, run through a D ring on the most forward hole in the anchor roller center rib and tied off to a bow cleat. It's adjustable but not under a large load unless your Hercules. I am designing an A frame style sprite to put the tack further forward in front of the anchor and then will work on a dedicated tack line run to the cockpit. That will be fully adjustable. You could slack a jib sheet, tie the tack line to that and control it from the cockpit. It. Would be a reasonable cheat.

Thanks for the reply,
I did use a piece of line and tied it to the bow cleat. As you said, it's adjustable under lite load, so no Hercules here.

Valerio · Aug 13, 2018

Mfd how did you attach you assymetrical to the bow?

Ron20324 · Aug 13, 2018

Somewhat like post 17, I used a shackle on a blcok to turn the tack line aft.

Hunter 41DS asymmetrical spinnaker sheet leads

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