I use the welded loops as well. Thru a block then up to the winch on the cabin roof. Never had a problem. But honestly running those lines can be a pain if I’m short handed or don’t have a long downwind run.
Hunter 41DS asymmetrical spinnaker sheet leads
- Thread starter MFD
- Start date
many thanks, what do you think is the best solution, a roller spy asimetrical or one with the socks ? I have seen many trouble when the wind pick up with the roller, but also problems with the sock.
I have a sock, presently. Works well for cruising around and is great for short-handed operation. Have not used it to race as deploying and dousing with it are too time consuming, IMO. We race with the Symmetrical chute. I have a Selden Top Down furler in the box that I haven't changed over to yet because I have not yet installed my retractable bowsprit. That was an over the winter project that time did not allow to take place. So, my plan is to do that this winter and change from the sock to the furler for the future. Don't get me wrong, I like the sock arrangement, just not for racing.
Do you think is wise to use the place of the second anchor to put a pole on it to attach the roller furling ?
In my case and one of the reasons I did not get the sprit installation done before this season is that I have been concerned about the upward pull on the anchor roller because with the pole being extended off the bow it will exact additional leverage on the anchor roller. Hence, I was investigating options to counteract that load. What I plan to do is put an eye in my bow on the centerline probably down near the bottom of where the anchor locker stops. From that I will install a fixed length cable (maybe dyneema) that will be attached to the bottom outboard end of the pole (a bob stay). That will limit the amount of upward load that can transfer to the anchor roller. Because the pole is retractable and removable, I will have to use a bungee to take up the slack when the pole is retracted and a shackle to allow the end to be removed from the pole when it is taken off the bow and stored. If your boat has a bob stay rigged to the anchor roller already, it may be sufficient. My anchor roller does not extend out far enough, in my opinion, that I could just rig a permanent bob stay to it and be done with it.
With a bob stay so close to the main stay will be impossible to take a jibe with the chute up, you will have to roller in an then take the jibe. I was imagine the same thing with a pole with an eye on the anchor locker, the thing is that i will need to remove all in order to get out the chain. How good can be a 150 genoa with a whisker pole instead on a second roller? Were i live we have more than 15 knots between 2 pm and 9 pm, only in august and september the wind is less strong. So with 18 knots with full main i am doing around 7 knots but the boat feel very unstable, is better to pull than to push, so 150 genoa whisker pole and a very reefed main how do yo see that for crusing ? Going close reach with my 90% genoa and the main open until i feel the helm balanced i do around 5.4 knots. I think is ok for a boat with that kind of interior space and equipment. I seldom race with my h41 because i have a j24 that i love to race, i do not like to push hard the hunter, it does not feel right for me.
First, there appears to be enough horizontal clearance to the aft winch. There might be some issue with the position VERICALLY for a good lead to the winch with a snatch or other removable block. You need to check that. Remember it's not only when the line is tensioned, but as you pull on the line as you're initially setting the sail.
Secondly, my bigger concern is how the big sail up front has it sheet lead. On our boats with asymmetric spinnakers we've always found that the really sheeting angle that was optimum was forward of the stern. Maybe your sail is cut a lot differently, but I doubt it. If you have a toe rail which allowed for attachment of blocks (or even spectra straps), then you could rig a "twing". As it is, you'll be attaching the sail in a position I would guess is not really optimum of reaching.
I believe you said you had UPS. That, as others have pointed-out is really more like a genoa (except it's more full, is lighter, and doesn't attach to the forestay). I think that would be sheeted much farther forward. On your 41DS, I'm not sure you'd have it sheeted inboard of the lifelines -- but however, I think the sheeting angle would different than a asymmetric spinnaker.
Here's a previous post on a UPS: https://forums.sailboatowners.com/index.php?threads/use-of-ups-sail.106529/
http://doylecaribbean.com/our-sails/downwind/ups-utility-power-sail/
Always glad to meet another J24 person! I had mine for 30 years and campaigned it quite a bit. Sold it in 2012 and replaced with the Beneteau First 310 - A compromise. I miss that boat!
As my Beneteau Asym is currently rigged, we find that jibing is a task because the sail is tacked right at the bow. Not much room between the forestay and the tack of the Asym. We are able to do it but it generally requires someone to go forward and help it through/around. The point of adding the retractable sprit is to allow us to project the sail out ahead of the bow and forestay so the sail can be jibed much easier. We generally don't fly that sail in much upwards of 15 and would instead be jib reaching or running wing and wing with a whisker pole or the Symmetrical chute. My plan for the bowsprit is to use the Selden 90 degree bracket bolted to the outside of anchor roller. The aft end of the sprit pole will be attached to the deck aft of the anchor locker and will snap into a bracket there. It will be able to be unclipped to remove it and slip the pole out of the bow bracket to clear the anchor locker should we need to access the anchor locker. We rarely use the anchor BTW. The pole will extend through the bow bracket and out front of the boat. On the bottom outboard end of the pole will be the bobstay which will angle back to the bow as I described previously.
what do you think is better to get dow in the case the wind is picking up ? a roller tryradial spy, a big over sized genoa like 150 with a whisker pole and no attach to the forestay or a tryradial spy with a socks ?
the wind here pick up in less than 10 min, can go from 12 to 18 is a beat. Also in summer time we have big puff of 25 to 35 knots made from big cloud, they can last from few minutes to several hours and they can show with very little time to get ready for them
It’s not the sail, it’s the helmsman, the control surfaces (rudder, etc , and the seaway.
Don’t start by going dead down wind. Reach at, say 130 to 140 degrees apparent and try to sail wing and wing without a pole. Later, if you’re going a long way in a decent seaway with predictable winds, you could try a pole
Dead downwind, we routinely go wing and wing with the150 without a pole if there is enough wind to keep the 150 from flopping around. In lighter air wing on wing we will use the whisker pole just to keep the 150 projected out to the side and keep it from collapsing. We will generally do that when we just don't want to mess with a chute and/or are shorthanded in a breeze. Our 150 is on a furler. Wind gets too much for that arrangement, we can just head up and go to reaching under the jib and if still too much we can then shorten sail on the jib using its furler. IMO I would say that the Asym chute on a top down furler would be easier to take down than the same with the sock. Sock setup requires someone to go forward to pull the sock down over the chute. With the furler, no need to go forward and once its furled, generally no immediate need to go forward to drop the furler. Not so with the sock setup as it needs to get dropped to the deck and put in its bag after taking down the chute.
You can see it in the picture I posted previously. Selden Furlex Furler is on the forestay (our only forward stay) with 150 furled on it in the pic. Our top down furler for the Asym will hoist with the spinnaker halyard and be tacked on the outboard end of the removable/retractable bowsprit.
how good sail your 150 when is only out let say 1/3 of the sail ? Can you still go close reach ?
With my Beneteau, when the wind is up above about 16, the boat sails better with a first reef in the main and a full 150 out. If it's in the 20's, we will roll in the 150 to say a 130-135 size (to about the shrouds). More than that, roll it in to about a 100 (front of the mast). If we are still overpowered at that point we generally head for the beach - no sense beating ourselves or the equipment up for no good reason. Unless, of course, we are racing! In that case we do what we need to in order to depower and keep the boat on its feet.
I think the area ratio between the main to the jib is totally different on the hunter, i also try to keep all out my jib and start to roll in the main, when racing (not very often) with less than 17 knots i fell that i need a bigger jib. I say very often with more than 20 knots because i what we have most of the year long. Last march sailing from isla mujeres down to Progreso we had gust of 55 knots, then we lost the wind indicator, i was sailing with a freedom 33 with a hull teoretical speed of less of 7 knots we were doing 8.5 with only the main and 3 reefs!!!, The hunter hold better the high wind, in may we travel from Alacranes reef back to Progreso with 25 knots and the wind on the beam, only with 1/3 of the main rolled out and the boat feels very safe. I was another hunter heater until i started to sail mine !!! Now i love my boat
That seems like a lot of sail for that Hunter to me...but you're sailing it Valerio ;^)))
I think you are correct, that your sail plan is different on your H 41DS. I don't think it depends on it's foresail as much as some "older" designs. Having said that, DON'T plan on the UPS with winds like you describe.
I think you are correct, that your sail plan is different on your H 41DS. I don't think it depends on it's foresail as much as some "older" designs. Having said that, DON'T plan on the UPS with winds like you describe.