Hunter 34 Refit Help

[chloe]

It is not paint. It is a gelcoat strip sprayed into the mold at the time the boat hull was built. To remove it you would need to sand it. Then you would need to barrier coat the hull and paint the hull. It is the same material as the white gelcoat.

On the other hand, if it is just oxidized and you want to make it pretty, you could wet sand and polish the stripe smooth like you would polish a car paint job. That often brings the gelcoat shine back.

Thank you so much for the input. I have a ton of work to get done for the spring on this boat as I am sure you can see from the original image,
I am considering wrapping the boat with a 3m vinyl, I have experience applying it and it could be done fairly inexpensively for a good quality finish!

A little update on my progress:

I am planning on having some of the last remaining teardown work done by the yard the boat is at as I seem to get sick every time I go below (due to mold) even with a respirator. The boat still needs the cabin sole, head, holding tank, false bilge floor, galley icebox and silly wall carpets torn out before I can go forward with getting it professionally remediated. I have never seen so much black mold in my life!

I will keep you all updated with new pictures once I get the boat all cleaned up!
Then I can begin to build my new cabin layout which is exciting as well...

 

[jssailem]

Normally I would not use a OZone generator on a boat, but if black mold is a bad as you say, it might be an optional method. Check with the experts as OZone is a corrosive gas. I had one used by a car detailer and it was a miracle solution for the vehicle.

 

[chloe]

Normally I would not use a OZone generator on a boat, but if black mold is a bad as you say, it might be an optional method. Check with the experts as OZone is a corrosive gas. I had one used by a car detailer and it was a miracle solution for the vehicle.

This boat will need some very serious remediation. Fogging can damage seals and other components quite badly from what I’ve been told. However, I will almost certainly try ozone as well, as I’ve used it on my car with good results.

I’m looking to have the work done by a company that specializes in boats (mold.ca) here in Canada.

My current concern is getting under the pan thoroughly enough to remove everything. I almost need some kind of heavy-duty foaming solution for that! One of the more frustrating aspects of these production boats is not being able to access everything.

 

[splax]

welcome to the forum !

3 upgrades I highly recommend:
replace potable water piping with PEX
aluminum tube for compression post
lifeline stanchion bases weld repaired

leaks are probably not from the toe rail, the sea hood and genoa track are likely culprits

wiping clean the interior with apple cider vinegar will inhibit mold

 

[splax]

I would also suggest replacing the bilge pump tubing with smooth walled tubing, the bilge pump with a smaller one to reduce cycling, and the installation of a large pump for emergency purposes.

you might consider larger genoa winches

 

[chloe]

welcome to the forum !

3 upgrades I highly recommend:
replace potable water piping with PEX
aluminum tube for compression post
lifeline stanchion bases weld repaired

leaks are probably not from the toe rail, the sea hood and genoa track are likely culprits

wiping clean the interior with apple cider vinegar will inhibit mold

Thank you so much!

I plan on completely replacing all of the piping with pex, this is excellent advice.
I am currently in the process of cleaning the boat out, a massive job as almost everything has some form of rot on it. I am likely going to be changing the layout a good bit over the course of this project and am looking into changing the compression post. It does look alright under the teak so that may be a later project when I am able to get the mast down.

My latest question for all of you is how you all go about removing the nasty (mold filled in my case) hull carpeting? On my boat, it is pretty well on there surprisingly and it seems to be attached behind the headliner in a couple of places which concerns me on my ability to properly remove it...

Thank you all again for the amazing help, It has made a huge difference!

 

[jk kudera]

hi, welcome ,
I had leaks from the 100 bolts that hold the jib tracks, make sure you check them for leaks too.

 

[chloe]

hi, welcome ,
I had leaks from the 100 bolts that hold the jib tracks, make sure you check them for leaks too.

Oh boy, that sounds like a fun job.
Might just throw some hull preservation tape on there for now until I can re-bed everything on deck in the spring. Just wanting to get it dry inside for now.

I appreciate the help.

 

[Capt Robbie]

hey there congratulations and welcome to the club.
I’m one of the few original owners of 1983 h34 and about ten years ago had to basically rebuild mine from the keel up after hurricane damage. Long process ahead but definitely worth it. To many things to list as projects to do however two things that came to mind.

1st cut out the false bilge pan and get rid of 40 years of the most disgusting sludge build up you can ever imagine. Nothing can ever prepare you for what you will find under the pan. Omg I still have nightmares from the smells and sludge that was underneath it !!! After you remove it and can properly hose and clean it out. That will be a game changer. No more horrible mildew smells after it’s been cleaned.

2nd is install an inspection plate under both chain plate rods into the pan underneath the table on on the opposite side. Need access to inspect the chain plates and unfortunately these boats used steel angle iron instead of aluminum or stainless steel and they have been known to rot away, causing the mast to fail. For years this bothered me not being able to inspect them. This modification I finally figured out how to do was a game changer and gives me peace of mind every season.
It’s an easy modification and you can see how it’s done In owner mods section by model

good luck on your project