Help!! Did I make a huge mistake?
- Thread starter reefsider
- Start date
First - find and join a local sailing club in your area. There is likely a Catalina 22 fleet somewhere nearby or a local yacht club will have a fleet of racing Catalina 22s. Those people know their stuff and will be able to offer you advice.
Second - join the Catalina 22 National Association - and get the technical documentation. Filled with helpful hints, tricks and repairs.
Third - search this site for specific items/repairs. I go back and re-read old threads all the time and they are filled with discussions and various input on almost every repair you will face.
Finally - remember that you really can't make things much worse and just do it.
Second - join the Catalina 22 National Association - and get the technical documentation. Filled with helpful hints, tricks and repairs.
Third - search this site for specific items/repairs. I go back and re-read old threads all the time and they are filled with discussions and various input on almost every repair you will face.
Finally - remember that you really can't make things much worse and just do it.
Unfortunately there is no C22 NSA fleet in Canada, not am I aware of an independent group of c22 racers in Canada. even in southern Ontario.
There are a bunch of c22s in Canada, but maybe we just don't join clubs ?
(There are still active Tanzer 22 groups around. They seem much more common in Canada than the c22.)
Someone will have a c22, you just may have to walk some docks or connect up with someone local online.
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Washed the boat today with the power washer and it looks amazing. Still have some scrubbing to do but I can't believe what just a power washer will do. There was a bit of scrubbing done in the cockpit but I didn't scrub the rest at all.
I have joined the National C22 association and paid for the download of the tech file. Still need to download it though. The internet here is terrible.
I have joined the National C22 association and paid for the download of the tech file. Still need to download it though. The internet here is terrible.
Looking good !
That teak looks salvageable.
@CloudDiver did a post that explains using epoxy and varnish/cetol etc. To refinish teak and fill the surface.
My neighbour used that method to salvage his teak. It filled the surface and helped hold it together/prevent splitting.
Maybe some here has done the same ?
That teak looks salvageable.
@CloudDiver did a post that explains using epoxy and varnish/cetol etc. To refinish teak and fill the surface.
My neighbour used that method to salvage his teak. It filled the surface and helped hold it together/prevent splitting.
Maybe some here has done the same ?
definitely save that teak-- nothing that can be rehabbed quite nicely there.....good looking boat.
Thanks guys I'm Really excited about the boat but trying to keep things in perspective as I haven't looked at the keel at all yet. It seems pretty solid in there but it also hasn't been serviced in a long time.
Can anyone give me an idea of how much it would cost to have a marina redo the keel and winch cable? I would order the cd centering kit, modified pivot block set and cable repair kit for them to install.
I know it's possible to do it myself but it's a big job when doing it on the trailer. There is so much other work to do on the boat I'd rather have that dealt with but I'll do it if it's really pricey.
Thanks
I'm Really excited about the boat but trying to keep things in perspective as I haven't looked at the keel at all yet. It seems pretty solid in there but it also hasn't been serviced in a long time. Can anyone give me an idea of how much it would cost to have a marina redo the keel and winch cable? I would order the cd centering kit, modified pivot block set and cable repair kit for them to install.
I know it's possible to do it myself but it's a big job when doing it on the trailer. There is so much other work to do on the boat I'd rather have that dealt with but I'll do it if it's really pricey.
Thanks
So I got underneath the boat today and got a good look at the keel and keel hanger. It looks to me like the CD oversized blocks are already in and hopefully the centering kit also but I can't see in there. I also tried to loosen the hanger bolts to make sure they weren't stuck. 3 turn so smooth it's like a fluid filled camera tri-pod. One of the bolts is very tight and I'm afraid of breaking it. I got it to unscrew about 2 turns and then went back in. The bolt is now easy to turn for the first two turns and then tight again.
Do you think this is corrosion or loc-tite? Should I try heating the bolt or just try to undo it and hope for the best?
I also got a look at the keel locking bolt, it turns but I tried to take it out and it stopped turning before I could get it out. Not sure if it's bent or just corroded.
Here are some pics of the keel hangers and a couple of the mess that's left of the lifting cable and hack job by previous owner.
Do you think this is corrosion or loc-tite? Should I try heating the bolt or just try to undo it and hope for the best?
I also got a look at the keel locking bolt, it turns but I tried to take it out and it stopped turning before I could get it out. Not sure if it's bent or just corroded.
Here are some pics of the keel hangers and a couple of the mess that's left of the lifting cable and hack job by previous owner.
Don't rush it with the keel hanger bolts. A liberal spraying of PB Blaster every couple days. Don't waste your time with WD-40. GREAT stuff, just not penetrating oil, (the "WD" stands for water displacement). Worked it back and forth like you're doing, and keep spraying them. Looks like someone filled the area around the bolt holes in the hangers with epoxy. Pick all that out to make sure you're not trying to turn the bolts against some left over piece of epoxy. But, in the worst case you break off the bolt. NO BIG DEAL! Weldments are easily replaced, especially on the new design boats like yours. The factory already knew this could be a maintenance issue and designed the interior for easy access and replacement. Just one of the MANY improvements the factory made on these models. Plan on replacing the keel hanger bolts anyway, and their replacements are not at Home Depot, Lowes, or Ace Hardware. Buy the correct bolts and save yourself problems down the road.
Unbelievable difference in her appearance. I like a good cleaner with Clorox, or Soft and Scrubb. Apply it in the cool of the day and just let it sit and do it's thing. Moisten and scrub every now and then to keep it moist and on the surface. Does a great job on many stains, and without much effort.
Welcome to the C-22 Association, we've been around a LONG time,(over 40 + years), and have the answers to help get her back in the water where she belongs!
Don
Unbelievable difference in her appearance. I like a good cleaner with Clorox, or Soft and Scrubb. Apply it in the cool of the day and just let it sit and do it's thing. Moisten and scrub every now and then to keep it moist and on the surface. Does a great job on many stains, and without much effort.
Welcome to the C-22 Association, we've been around a LONG time,(over 40 + years), and have the answers to help get her back in the water where she belongs!
Don
Hi, Just an update:
I have a pro coming to look at the boat Friday to help me figure out if it is worth continuing to work on it.
I have removed all the old rotten wood from the boat and cut most of the new pieces from marine teak ply I bought. I stopped when I removed the bulkhead and saw what looks like either a crack or a molding imperfection above one of the bulkheads. I have my concerns about the boat already so I decided to call a pro and have him look over the boat.
I'll keep you posted as I know what's going on.
I really appreciate all the help and advice I've gotten here so far, thanks!
I have a pro coming to look at the boat Friday to help me figure out if it is worth continuing to work on it.
I have removed all the old rotten wood from the boat and cut most of the new pieces from marine teak ply I bought. I stopped when I removed the bulkhead and saw what looks like either a crack or a molding imperfection above one of the bulkheads. I have my concerns about the boat already so I decided to call a pro and have him look over the boat.
I'll keep you posted as I know what's going on.
I really appreciate all the help and advice I've gotten here so far, thanks!
So I got the boat looked at. The boat is solid but needs a lot of work. The crack was nothing to worry about, as were all the other cracks. The Keel is a big expensive job though so I may have to do that myself as much as I don't want to. Also, he thinks the boat will need all new stainless lines so that adds up fast. He's going to get back to me in a few days to give me a quote and recommendation.
I'm in the club of "let's go sailing!!!". There is a LOT of things to be done for that boat, but 90% of it is cosmetic. What *I* would do is give it a good cleaning (the pressurewasher idea is a good one - you'll be AMAZED at the difference!), then concentrate on what needs to be done to get her sailing. Things like:
- keel: you'll need to drop it to have a look at it, make sure the pivot bolt is in good shape and get the winch cable attached and working. I'd probably do some glasswork where the pivot bolt goes through the centerboard box just to strengthen it up a bit.
- mast: hard to kill aluminum! Clean it up, get the halyards working, check the shrouds, especially the tabs where they attach to the mast.
- mast step and chainplates: make sure they're servicable and repair as needed.
- running rigging: easiest/best to just buy new halyards, sheets, docklines... also check pulleys, etc. and replace if needed.
- sails: You'll need new sails eventually, but just to get her out on the water the ones it came with will probably do.
- Electronics: GPS and VHF (Sounder is good especially if you're going to anchor)
- Safety Equipment: check Coast Guard requirements and make sure you have at least the minimum.
- Engine: buy a decent used one - 6 - 7.5 hp is plenty.
First time you drop her in the water, be prepared to bring her back on the trailer if there's a problem. Sit at a dock for a few hours and make sure there's no leaks, she sits properly in the water (check the waterline), the keel goes up and down properly, etc. Then... take her out for a sail!
druid
- keel: you'll need to drop it to have a look at it, make sure the pivot bolt is in good shape and get the winch cable attached and working. I'd probably do some glasswork where the pivot bolt goes through the centerboard box just to strengthen it up a bit.
- mast: hard to kill aluminum! Clean it up, get the halyards working, check the shrouds, especially the tabs where they attach to the mast.
- mast step and chainplates: make sure they're servicable and repair as needed.
- running rigging: easiest/best to just buy new halyards, sheets, docklines... also check pulleys, etc. and replace if needed.
- sails: You'll need new sails eventually, but just to get her out on the water the ones it came with will probably do.
- Electronics: GPS and VHF (Sounder is good especially if you're going to anchor)
- Safety Equipment: check Coast Guard requirements and make sure you have at least the minimum.
- Engine: buy a decent used one - 6 - 7.5 hp is plenty.
First time you drop her in the water, be prepared to bring her back on the trailer if there's a problem. Sit at a dock for a few hours and make sure there's no leaks, she sits properly in the water (check the waterline), the keel goes up and down properly, etc. Then... take her out for a sail!
druid
Thanks Druid, That's pretty much my plan except I'm also doing the interior wood. I needed to do the bulkheads anyways so I bought a sheet and it did every piece in the boat. I have them all cut and just fitted my first piece yesterday . I am using a miniature table top bench sander with disc sander on the side. It does an amazing job rounding edge, rounding corners and shaping pieces.
My biggest concern has always been the keel and making the boat completely sea worthy without any of the sailing rigging. I was hoping to get someone else to do the keel but that looks like its not going to be in my budget so i'll be doing it myself in the driveway probably.
Does someone have a cradle design I can look at? It would really help me out.
After the keel I plan to refit almost everything on the boat. I want to make sure everything is sealed well and not going to be a problem later.
Once that is done I'll focus on getting it sailing.
I already have a ton of boating stuff my parents had for their boat a while ago. VHF radio, Chart plotter, anchor, bumpers, lines etc. I also traded an old project for a 5hp Honda outboard so all I really need is to get the boat done and I'll be good to go
. I am using a miniature table top bench sander with disc sander on the side. It does an amazing job rounding edge, rounding corners and shaping pieces.My biggest concern has always been the keel and making the boat completely sea worthy without any of the sailing rigging. I was hoping to get someone else to do the keel but that looks like its not going to be in my budget so i'll be doing it myself in the driveway probably.
Does someone have a cradle design I can look at? It would really help me out.
After the keel I plan to refit almost everything on the boat. I want to make sure everything is sealed well and not going to be a problem later.
Once that is done I'll focus on getting it sailing.
I already have a ton of boating stuff my parents had for their boat a while ago. VHF radio, Chart plotter, anchor, bumpers, lines etc. I also traded an old project for a 5hp Honda outboard so all I really need is to get the boat done and I'll be good to go
Many Many good versions of a keel cradle out there-- designed for everyone's particular needs and circumstances: CloudDvier / StingySailor / RJD and many others have posted pics of theirs throughout their build forums as well.
Attached are a few shots of mine-- used scrap pieces of dimensional lumber and screws. I may add casters to it for re installation later this summer, and as you can see this one has been fork lifted successfully more than once as well.
Thanks for the pics pclarksurf.
I found a YouTube video of someone doing the job and I plan to follow that video. I copied the cradle and bought all the wood today. I moved the boat to a good spot and level. I went to remove the tongue so I can jack up the front of the boat and ITS STUCK!!
Like really stuck. I've been spraying as much penetrating oil in it for 2 days, tapping with a hammer and smashing on the brake system (which is garbage) with a cinder block then a sledge hammer.
I bought 2, 10,000 lb winch straps and used one to tie the back end of the trailer to a tree from both rear corners of the trailer. Then I used the car as an anchor and tried to winch the tongue out. No luck.
Then I attached the largest vehicle we have (dodge minivan) to the trailer and tried to pull it out with that. The wheels just squeeled and nothing happened.
I'm not sure what to do now. I am tempted to cut the extension so I can just get the jack under the front but would really prefer to get the tongue out.
I saw in the forums that others have pulled it out with a truck with the trailer tied to the tree but I'm afraid I'll break the trailer somewhere else and have a real problem.
Any advice would be really helpful
I found a YouTube video of someone doing the job and I plan to follow that video. I copied the cradle and bought all the wood today. I moved the boat to a good spot and level. I went to remove the tongue so I can jack up the front of the boat and ITS STUCK!!
Like really stuck. I've been spraying as much penetrating oil in it for 2 days, tapping with a hammer and smashing on the brake system (which is garbage) with a cinder block then a sledge hammer.
I bought 2, 10,000 lb winch straps and used one to tie the back end of the trailer to a tree from both rear corners of the trailer. Then I used the car as an anchor and tried to winch the tongue out. No luck.
Then I attached the largest vehicle we have (dodge minivan) to the trailer and tried to pull it out with that. The wheels just squeeled and nothing happened.
I'm not sure what to do now. I am tempted to cut the extension so I can just get the jack under the front but would really prefer to get the tongue out.
I saw in the forums that others have pulled it out with a truck with the trailer tied to the tree but I'm afraid I'll break the trailer somewhere else and have a real problem.
Any advice would be really helpful
I tried heating it also but couldn't seem to get enough heat in it to even warm the tube really.
I'm thinking maybe a larger bottle jack between the winch upright and the back of the brake system with a block of wood between?
I just hooked the van up to it and went back and forth fairly with the trailer attached to the tree letting the momentum do most of the work. I got the thing to move about 1/32" lol. I am going to spray more penetrating oil on it, tap it a bunch with a hammer and try again in the morning.
I'm thinking maybe a larger bottle jack between the winch upright and the back of the brake system with a block of wood between?
I just hooked the van up to it and went back and forth fairly with the trailer attached to the tree letting the momentum do most of the work. I got the thing to move about 1/32" lol. I am going to spray more penetrating oil on it, tap it a bunch with a hammer and try again in the morning.
I sprayed Sea Foam Deep Creep down the aft of the channel and then lowered the trailer jack so that it oozed forward. The next day I was able to beat the extension out with a sledgehammer but destroyed the surge brake in doing so. Later had a welder cut it off and weld a new one on.
I got the tongue out :-D
I used a bottle jack against the upright for the winch and the back of the brake system. Worked really well I was surprised how easy it made the job. I had to smack it with a small sledge hammer at first. When it started moving the upright I stopped and hit it and it was easy from there on. Once it was about a foot out I used the sledge hammer from there as it was just faster. Here's a pic
I also got the one stiff keel hanger bolt off without breaking it I'm pretty relieved about that.
I cut all the wood for the cradle and I'll start building it tomorrow.
I used a bottle jack against the upright for the winch and the back of the brake system. Worked really well I was surprised how easy it made the job. I had to smack it with a small sledge hammer at first. When it started moving the upright I stopped and hit it and it was easy from there on. Once it was about a foot out I used the sledge hammer from there as it was just faster. Here's a pic
I also got the one stiff keel hanger bolt off without breaking it I'm pretty relieved about that.
I cut all the wood for the cradle and I'll start building it tomorrow.