H34 minor issues

[thelocoman]

rubber bumpers

Get the bumpers here http://www.westfloridacomponents.com. they have a large selection at great prices. Look in rubber feet section.

 

[Phil Herring]

What Dave said. Hunter used several different sizes, mostly multiples of 1/4", because the hull and cockpit locker lids are laid up by hand and vary just a bit from boat to boat. No one size is going to work for every application. They recommend using 1/4" bumpers and if you need 1/2" use two.

splax -- I think I put a couple in the mail to you earlier this week. Or maybe it was someone else. Long week.

 

[Scott]

Phil,
You sent me a 3/8" and 3/4". Thanks very much. As soon as I find out what size I should use, I'll submit the order.

Thanks again,
Scott

 

[Fast Ed]

On the rubber bumpers: I bought some thick dock line and hook it throught the Self Tapping screws that originally held the bumpers. This provides a better support for cockpit lockers.
fast ed

 

[splax]

Fast Ed,
I like the rope idea, and the more consistent support it might offer the seat. I am thinking that the line would mash down over time and the screw heads would end up really being the support. What do you think?

 

[coxwaine1]

Splax,

I have a complete interior set that I would be willing to sell to you. The fabric is blue, good condtion and is only a few years old. My H34 was totaled in Sandy. It didn't sink, just was demasted and had some hull damage. Let me know if you are interested, and I can send photos.

 

[splax]

I was down to the boat yesterday and have decided to put a floor drain in the sole where it's water damaged to drain that area to the bilge. The boat looked in decent shape for being in the water the last 3 years.

 

[splax]

I am interested in the cushions. Please send pictures to capt0splax@gmail.com .

 

[splax]

I have a two blade propeller, and I would like to go to a 3-blade 15-9. What are some opinions?

 

[Richard Bryer]

Depending on the type of prop ( CS, Michigan etc) You will find that different dia is recommended. I went from my original 2 blade ( 15 dia 12 pitch) to a CS 14X9. I found I was over-propped with this combination and I returned it for repitching to 7 as recommended by Norm. I still cant get up to the same revs at WOT as with the 2 blade but I can cruise at 2500 (on the Yanmar Tach). Speed is ~6 knts

Complex business sizing props.

If you would like a 14X9 I have one that I would sell

 

[splax]

Yes, I am interested in the propeller. What engine do you have and what was the performance with the 14x9 propeller?

 

[cjfj]

Is that a Beckson access port in you main cabin sole? What does it access? Was there a need for it?

Not sure what brand of access ports but yes that is what they are. The replaced the floor plate to access the bilge areas. more support on the floor no worries about the plates swelling making them hard to get open or close.

 

[splax]

sole drain

cjfj,
The round, black thing on the floor under the cabin table is your bilge access port? How do you access the bilge pump from there?
Do you think there is something like that to drain to the bilge for the problem area near the companionway where water will pool after falling from the sliding cover?

 

[Dan Johnson]

Sole Drain...

Splax, where cjfj has a black Beckson port at the companionway stairs, I have a factory lift-out cabin sole panel like the one for the bilge sump, only much smaller. It is to access the aft keel bolt nuts on my shoal keel model.

 

[splax]

Hello again,
I changed the raw water cooling through-hull valve to a ball valve last Monday, but couldn't get the new, stiffer hose to the existing fitting at the raw water strainer. When removed I was surprised to find it was plastic, cut down and bent. Yesterday I replaced that fitting with a 45 elbow to a bronze fitting. It is still too tight a fit, but I will remove the little bit of wood in the way to give a good conection.

 

[splax]

I replaced the two 5/8" plastic through-hull fittings that are outboard the head. I also found my tranmission bone dry. I thought maybe the PO had forgot to fill it when he winterized, but he pled ignorance when I asked. Hmmm...

 

[Claude L.-Auger]

Hello again,
I changed the raw water cooling through-hull valve to a ball valve last Monday, but couldn't get the new, stiffer hose to the existing fitting at the raw water strainer. When removed I was surprised to find it was plastic, cut down and bent. Yesterday I replaced that fitting with a 45 elbow to a bronze fitting. It is still too tight a fit, but I will remove the little bit of wood in the way to give a good conection.

Try using a heat gun on the new hose before slipping it on the fitting. It makes things a lot easier. Don't forget to put your 2 clamps on the hose before doing so.

 

[Claude L.-Auger]

I replaced the two 5/8" plastic through-hull fittings that are outboard the head. I also found my tranmission bone dry. I thought maybe the PO had forgot to fill it when he winterized, but he pled ignorance when I asked. Hmmm...

Getting a reading on the tranny dipstick is not evident as it should read only to the etched line about 1/4" from the end of the stick. If you checked it with the cap unscrewed you will not see any oil on it. If indeed it is dry, do not trust the P.O add whetever is necessary. Good luck

 

[onecoolair]

Try using a heat gun on the new hose before slipping it on the fitting. It makes things a lot easier. Don't forget to put your 2 clamps on the hose before doing so.

A little soap on the fitting may help too. Either bar or liquid.

 

[splax]

I spoke to a friend about the transmission fluid, and he recommended pressurizing the heat exchanger. His assumption being that the transmission is cooled and a tube leak allowed the transmission fluid to be pumped into the raw water side of the heat exchanger. Scary if true.