H23.5 Centerboard parts

Jan 13, 2017
34
Hunter 23.5 Panama City, Florida
I'm preparing to refit my centerboard as the pins and roller are worn and the spacers are cracked. The Centerboard moves side to side when up, is hard to pull up (need to use the winch) and it appears to want to come up sideways.
Anyway, listing in the store is a Centerboard Bushing, Delrin. Anybody know where this part goes? There is no picture and my owner manual doesn't show it.
 
Sep 30, 2016
301
Hunter 23.5 Patoka Lake, IN
EDIT: If I understand correctly, the centerboard bushing is for the board its self. It should go in the hole that the centerboard bolt goes through and is a bearing for the keel to swing.

Im preparing to drop the keel to replace the up haul. Im curious about this myself. As I recall, thats an expensive part for a piece of plastic. Im wondering if I should buy all the bits that can be replaced while Im down there or not. I doubt the keel has been dropped since new. Cost a lot more money and may not need the parts. Or, Ill have to delay floating the boat waiting for parts and have to rent the lift again. Hmmmm.

Im planning on taking some good pics while Im down there. Seems to be lacking for those wishing to do this chore.
 
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Jan 13, 2017
34
Hunter 23.5 Panama City, Florida
Thanks for your reply. I'm going the route of buying all new parts and replacing regardless of the look of the old parts. From what I can see by shining a flashlight up there, things are fairly worn. I believe that bushing is for the centerboard also but don't understand why it would be made from delrin. I would think it should be brass or stainless steel. I have a suspicion that my centerboard pivot pin hole may be worn and need repair when removed. I hear of people on this board saying that their centerboard comes up by hand while mine must be winched up. It winches up okay except for the last few inches. to get that, I sometimes wonder if I'm overstressing the structure the winch is mounted on.
 
Sep 30, 2016
301
Hunter 23.5 Patoka Lake, IN
Yes, thats not right if you have to winch it up. I would suspect the plastic roller. Because of the geometry of the design, its under a lot of force when the keel isnt down. If a piece cracked off the roller and it isnt round anymore, that would cause a lot of effort to raise the keel up.
 
Feb 5, 2018
9
Hunter 23.5 Florida City
I Just completed an overhaul of the centerboard and mechanism, it was worn so stainless steel rods were replaced by the local welding shop at a cost of $5.00! You need to raise up the hull to remove the centerboard, I used short jackstands at the stern and placed 6x6 on the front of the bunks to obtain clearance, leaving the hull supported by the trailer. There is one 1&1/8" bolt holding in the mechanism and centerboard in, it's a two man job to remove and replace the unit. The roller is the same as used on an anchor roller bowsprit sold at West Marine, I believe.
 

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Feb 5, 2018
9
Hunter 23.5 Florida City
Hunter replacement parts $535.00. I did the job for $75.00 labor and $5.00 parts, and improved the design of the mechanism, refer to the diagram in the owners manual or you may have to do it nice because you do it twice!
 
Feb 5, 2018
9
Hunter 23.5 Florida City
See my post and photos, just did the job at South Dade Marina, without the cost of lifting slings, saved over $300.00!
 
Jan 13, 2017
34
Hunter 23.5 Panama City, Florida
Love your idea of raising the boat while still supported by the trailer. I will have to look into that myself.
 
Jan 13, 2017
34
Hunter 23.5 Panama City, Florida
Will do. Just getting ready to purchase all the parts just in case they need replaced. I assume parts will be worn through normal use since 1993. It also appears I will need minor fiberglass repair around centerboard trunk.
 
Feb 5, 2018
9
Hunter 23.5 Florida City
Saved the cost of paying $300 to use lift and slings, auto jack and blocking plus 2 jackstands did the job
1
 
Jun 8, 2004
8,881
-na -NA Anywhere USA
JL Stratton;
I would ask Tom if he has put his boat back into thee water to check for leaks at the tank lid to the hull. I am not a fan of where jacks were placed as I have seen damage occur in the past. Good example is at the stern and I could not see the two stands chained to the back of the trailer to prevent them from kicking out. The purpose of the buck board through out the two sides is to distribute the load of the boat weighing dry weight of 2000 pounds. This is a decision you will have to make. Also, when you do this, mark with permanent majic marker where the pins are and check to make sure the holes where the pins go thru are not worn out and if so will need weld repair. Also put duck tape over the holes to keep the pins in place when reinstalling the centerboard trunk housing. I wrote the b ook on this.
 
Feb 5, 2018
9
Hunter 23.5 Florida City
Sailed her over a hundred miles in the last 6 weeks, no leaks. Also used chains to prevent kick-out of stands (this is basic safety procedure) and placed the wide plywood pads under the the hull to distribute weight evenly, also used 6x6 4 ft long on top of front of trailer bunks and jackstand under hull at bow to support hull. I had the help and advice of the marina mechanic who has been working on boats for 40 years or more. As for the wear on the holes supporting the pins, he welded stainless reinforcements to the metal frame that also retain the pins in place. I would like to read a copy of your book, as we will be repairing the centerboard and rudder on a Hunter 260, one of several waterballast trailer-sailers stored in our sail only marina.
 

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Sep 30, 2016
301
Hunter 23.5 Patoka Lake, IN
Saved the cost of paying $300 to use lift and slings, auto jack and blocking plus 2 jackstands did the job
1
Wow, $300 for a lift! I can get one for the day for $85. Didnt seem too bad to me. Thanks for the pics. Helpful.
 
Jun 8, 2004
8,881
-na -NA Anywhere USA
Tom
I was involved with these boats from the beginning to include design, introducing them, sales but most importantly service at a time in the beginning most dealers scoffed at the notion of water ballast and trailering. When it started taking off, some dealers were trained by me. Many times I was asked how to repair by Hunter and traveled in certain cases all resolved. You have no idea what I saw going on experience and knowledge. It is up to the owner how they want to repair but when I see a potential for damage and/or injury, I will comment. Again it is up to an individual what they want to do
 
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Apr 14, 2018
52
Hunter 240 San Diego
Thank you very much. I just bought a H240 and need to replace the cb line. Can I do it without jacking the trailer? It looks like I can get access from within the cabin.
 
Sep 30, 2016
301
Hunter 23.5 Patoka Lake, IN
Thank you very much. I just bought a H240 and need to replace the cb line. Can I do it without jacking the trailer? It looks like I can get access from within the cabin.
The boat has to come up off the trailer, due to the location of where the uphaul line attaches to the keel. Here is a link to the defacto keel up-haul replacement thread: https://hunter.sailboatowners.com/mods.php?task=article&mid=20&aid=6224&mn=260

But I see you have a 24. Im not certain what the differences are. The 23.5 and the 26 are pretty much the same set up.
 
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Apr 14, 2018
52
Hunter 240 San Diego
Thank you very much. I think I got in over my head on this boat. Just purchased the boat for $5500 from the Sea Scouts in San Diego. Hoping to enjoy family outings with my grandchildren on Lake Skinner near our home in Temecula, CA. The boat's in great condition except the cb line looks worn and don't want it to fail while on the water. Don't mind minor repairs but did not want major ones. I guess I should have done more homework before buying the boat. Perhaps I should just stick with my little Lido. The other problem I encountered is that the cb seems to be stuck in the hull - it will not release when I slacken the line.