The question you ask is pretty wide open. One would need to know the usual prevailing winds/current and dock circumstances. I will tell you my situation. I have a 36’ boat in a single slip. A pier on both sides. Everything floating. We get quartering winds from the bow in the winter. Sometimes up to 70kt gusts with steady winds around 50kts. This only happens several times/yr and I have walked the (floating) dock with some trepidation to check on the boat. Up and down...you would think I’m drunk walking the dock! So here is my tying lashup to the piers. I use 5/8” three strand nylon lines. They stretch! I do a four pt tie to both piers. I tie it pretty loose so the boat can move around but not much jerking on the lines. I have two springs fwd (each side) and two springs aft (each side) both from mid ship to cleat at ends of pier. The springs are long and stretchy. That’s what they are supposed to be and it works. Short springs and lines in strong winds are not good as they pull cleats out..The boat stays in the middle bouncing around and is happy. In the spring, I just tie it to a pier and not use the “other” side lines as we don’t have such strong winds. The important thing is I let the boat bounce around but not so much as to pull cleats etc and use stretchy lines. It takes me twice as long to tie up in the winter months to get all lines “just right”.I always struggle to understand this, should docklines be tight to limit boat movement or loose to allow boat to move freely with surge/waves?
Advise please.
It doesn’t seem to make much difference where I am...I always struggle to understand this, should docklines be tight to limit boat movement or loose to allow boat to move freely with surge/waves?
Advise please.
I would not say so. I have a Boomkicker, but if I were to do it again, I would, probably, buy a rigid vang from Garhauer. Keep in mind that regardless of what you do, you would need a vang for Boomkicker (and if you don't have one already, it would be an extra cost).There is a HUGE cost difference between a rigid vang and a boom kicker.
Use lines with plenty of stretch. The bow and stern lines hang loose but short enough to keep you off of the pilings or dock on the other side. Long spring lines hold you to the side you board from and allow for the rise and fall of the tide. Bow spring lines go aft and stern spring lines go forward. The shorter bow line and stern line also keep the boat from swinging out at one and or the other ends. If there is room, like along a seawall, you can run extra spring lines forward from the bow and aft from the stern, if hard winds or big waves are expected. The more tidal range, the longer you want your spring lines, the looser you want your bow and stern lines. Spring lines should be as tight as practical. Tidal ranges get larger in storms, so accommodate.I always struggle to understand this, should docklines be tight to limit boat movement or loose to allow boat to move freely with surge/waves?
Advise please.
...the "Might as wells." Watch that your combined projects don't exceed the cost of dropping the mast and doing all the stuff you need done.It might be a good time to get the anchor light fixed and wire a new wind speed sensor.
Will that line be worth $500? Topping lifts are typically small diameter lines good for holding up booms and not much else. The main halyard can serve the same purpose.then I would be missing a line to the top of the mast that could come in handy later
autocorrect....
Ducklings!
Worthy article though.
-Will (Dragonfly)