Good teak prep guide for a new boat owner?

Dec 23, 2008
771
Catalina 22 Central Penna.
A number of years ago when I visited the Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum, I asked a fellow working in the paint shop what they considered the best varnish finish on a boat? “Flagship, after 13 coats!”
 
Aug 27, 2015
58
Cal 2-46 Whitianga. New Zealand
To remove the plugs I recommend the attached tool. You can buy various blade sizes to suit. Plus a larger blade to make plugs.
For varnish we have been using Awlwood MA. Sensational. Incredibly durable and easy to use. Slop it on and it looks fantastic. Comes in matt and gloss. We used gloss. You have to use their primer first. Visitors to our boat all oggle at the result and I am the worst painter you will ever meet.
 

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Sep 20, 2014
1,320
Rob Legg RL24 Chain O'Lakes
I made my own grab rails on my last boat out of Brazilion Teak, more commonly known as Cumaru. What I can tell you is the wood is unbelievably hard and does not sand easily. I doubt you would easily sand through the stuff.
 
Jun 21, 2004
2,532
Beneteau 343 Slidell, LA
Would definitely remove as much teak as possible with exception of oval trim piece. Much easier to do this at home a little bit every day. Also, it will give you an opportunity to remove all of the varnish overflow that is staining the gelcoat and to renew the teak to deck sealant. To remove the old varnish chemical strippers or heat gun is good. An orbital sander is a must; I would avoid the belt sander. Use teak cleaner & neutralizer sparingly. Seal with varnish, cetol natural + gloss sealer, or Semco. I wouldn't allow it to turn gray and weather; over time the wood fibers deteriorate and cause grooves to develop in the teak surface---then you really have to get aggressive with the sander to eliminate the grooves to obtain a smooth surface. Again, this is a much easier task to do in the comfort of your home & you can control the work environment much easier to avoid wind blown dust, bugs, gnats, etc.
I am still trying to determine the best method to seal the teak seating surfaces in my cockpit; can't take them home!!
 
Oct 3, 2011
825
Anam Cara Catalina 310 Hull #155 155 Lake Erie/Catawba Island
Did you buy the boat to work on OR sail? Time is a consideration. We cetoled our Catalina 22, than bought a varnished teak Catalina 25, it was gorgeous,but after a few knicks and touch ups it was back to stripping. SO stripped and than CETOLED, came out nice and lasted. Now own a Catalina 310 only teak is the hatchboards.
once you take those hand rails off you may have a difficult time getting them back on in the same position!
I would hand sand the teak, maybe a 4 beer job, than cetol, 3 coats.
Than you can sit back and enjoy!
 
Aug 22, 2014
43
Hunter 40 Corpus Christi
Alan,

Most of us, (even those who won't admit it) actually bought our boats to work on, unknowingly of course. The reality is that the three most damaging agents identified by man are quite plentiful in the boating environment:
Sun, H2O, and Avian poop (acidic). Sailing is allowed only when the required removal tasks are completed. Mother Nature says so!
 
A

Annonymous User 98989

Been there done this. Having tried removing, stripping, re-attaching and re-plugging, which is a lot of work, we next tried the heat gun. Heat gun is a HUGE time saver. Leaving the teak all in place carefully apply heat and scrape slowly moving along until you get most of the old stuff off. I use a wide scraper as a guard around all the stainless fittings or if when I need to get close to the fiberglass. I clean with the mixture recommended for sunbrella (find that at the sunbrella site) which is a mix of water, mild dish soap, clorox and medium bristle brush with the grain. Rinse well, dry and then your finish of choice. We live in the pacific northwest and can actually grow mold and lichen on untreated teak so we have opted for Semco for now.

Good Luck!
 
Oct 2, 2008
1,424
Island Packet 31 Brunswick, Ga
PA as you can see, many different techniques. I have had three boats now and, for me, simple is better. I have removed the teak, my first boat, and did not find it was worth the effort. lots of Work for no gain, plus you make leaks, unless you already have leaks, the maybe it needs removal for that purpose. I like simply removing the old finish with a good paste. Wipe the paste off the Gell Coat as you go along and it will not (hardly) do any damage. Pick small areas you can do in stages. Remove the softened finish with a scraper and then again apply more paste and remove it with some heavy duty thick green 3m pads. You can clean those pads after they dry out and use them again. Lots of pads and lots of rags. I actually use either paste and/or heat gun, depending on my mood and the area. Then clean with your choice, sand smooth to about 220 grit, then prep surface for cetol. Cetol is not as pretty but the fastest and most forgiving. four coats. You will develope your own technique around the third season.
 
Jul 7, 2015
22
Hunter 33_77-83 Kemah
Recently bought an 81 Cherubini 33 and refinished the teak.
My advice is to work on small sections.
Do not make more work for yourself by removing items.
Tape off a single handrail, sand and I used 8 coats of varnish.
Remove the tape at the end of each day or you will make a lot more work for yourself.
After you get one done it looks great and motivates you to do the next.
Use a rag to apply and throw it away at the end of the day.
I bought a roll of old T shirt parts for rags ($3) and cut them down to about an 8" X 8" section.
The varnish looks fantastic and I could put a layer on the whole boat in less than 2 hours.
Enjoy sailing.
 

HMT2

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Mar 20, 2014
899
Hunter 31 828 Shoreacres, TX
So Patrickidd,
All kinds of good advice from experienced hands all of which will work nicely.....so we are all dying to know, what did you decide to do?