"Free boat " reflexsions, and realizations
- Thread starter sailormanbigd
- Start date
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- Jul 24, 2006
- 628
thanks again
thanks again everyone. I have been contemplating location and quantity of seacocks. I want as little as neccessary. I oredered Peggy Halls book from this site for advice on installation of a head system. The current system had pressure water, maserrator ten gallon holding tank, but no pumpout fitting on deck. I think he just drained all the effluent overboard. I don't think that is legal anymore. I want to be able to be self contained for a week or more with 4 people on board. Think i need more holding capacity? What is the minimum "systems" you would have on a cruising sailboat? After ripping out miles of wireing, hoses, pvc pipe, pressure alcohol tank, oven/stove, airconditioner, sinks,etc., i am rethinking what is eccential cruising gagettery. Every system has its maintainence issues, in all actuallity all i want is to sail in comfort, have adequate lighting, a soft comfy place to lay my head & that of a female, be able to take fresh water shower, etc. etc. The reason for the queston is i am haveing to rebuild inside completely, and would like to prethink installation before the hard walls go in place. Think simple, easy, maintainence. Oh, thanks for the advice about marlone through hulls. I assume it is a stronger/harder version of plastic/pvc? I do plan on a haulout as soon as possible. But would like to get as much done as possible at the free location in the water. Once i haulout all i want to have to do is blast/scrape/barrior coat bottom, remove deck hardware and thru hulls/ rebed and replace, and finally paint top sides and deck. Thats enough work for about a month, maybe, and probably more. Thanks again all. Patrick
thanks again everyone. I have been contemplating location and quantity of seacocks. I want as little as neccessary. I oredered Peggy Halls book from this site for advice on installation of a head system. The current system had pressure water, maserrator ten gallon holding tank, but no pumpout fitting on deck. I think he just drained all the effluent overboard. I don't think that is legal anymore. I want to be able to be self contained for a week or more with 4 people on board. Think i need more holding capacity? What is the minimum "systems" you would have on a cruising sailboat? After ripping out miles of wireing, hoses, pvc pipe, pressure alcohol tank, oven/stove, airconditioner, sinks,etc., i am rethinking what is eccential cruising gagettery. Every system has its maintainence issues, in all actuallity all i want is to sail in comfort, have adequate lighting, a soft comfy place to lay my head & that of a female, be able to take fresh water shower, etc. etc. The reason for the queston is i am haveing to rebuild inside completely, and would like to prethink installation before the hard walls go in place. Think simple, easy, maintainence. Oh, thanks for the advice about marlone through hulls. I assume it is a stronger/harder version of plastic/pvc? I do plan on a haulout as soon as possible. But would like to get as much done as possible at the free location in the water. Once i haulout all i want to have to do is blast/scrape/barrior coat bottom, remove deck hardware and thru hulls/ rebed and replace, and finally paint top sides and deck. Thats enough work for about a month, maybe, and probably more. Thanks again all. Patrick
- Jul 24, 2006
- 628
thanks again
thanks again everyone. I have been contemplating location and quantity of seacocks. I want as little as neccessary. I oredered Peggy Halls book from this site for advice on installation of a head system. The current system had pressure water, maserrator ten gallon holding tank, but no pumpout fitting on deck. I think he just drained all the effluent overboard. I don't think that is legal anymore. I want to be able to be self contained for a week or more with 4 people on board. Think i need more holding capacity? What is the minimum "systems" you would have on a cruising sailboat? After ripping out miles of wireing, hoses, pvc pipe, pressure alcohol tank, oven/stove, airconditioner, sinks,etc., i am rethinking what is eccential cruising gagettery. Every system has its maintainence issues, in all actuallity all i want is to sail in comfort, have adequate lighting, a soft comfy place to lay my head & that of a female, be able to take fresh water shower, etc. etc. The reason for the queston is i am haveing to rebuild inside completely, and would like to prethink installation before the hard walls go in place. Think simple, easy, maintainence. Oh, thanks for the advice about marlone through hulls. I assume it is a stronger/harder version of plastic/pvc? I do plan on a haulout as soon as possible. But would like to get as much done as possible at the free location in the water. Once i haulout all i want to have to do is blast/scrape/barrior coat bottom, remove deck hardware and thru hulls/ rebed and replace, and finally paint top sides and deck. Thats enough work for about a month, maybe, and probably more. Thanks again all. Patrick
thanks again everyone. I have been contemplating location and quantity of seacocks. I want as little as neccessary. I oredered Peggy Halls book from this site for advice on installation of a head system. The current system had pressure water, maserrator ten gallon holding tank, but no pumpout fitting on deck. I think he just drained all the effluent overboard. I don't think that is legal anymore. I want to be able to be self contained for a week or more with 4 people on board. Think i need more holding capacity? What is the minimum "systems" you would have on a cruising sailboat? After ripping out miles of wireing, hoses, pvc pipe, pressure alcohol tank, oven/stove, airconditioner, sinks,etc., i am rethinking what is eccential cruising gagettery. Every system has its maintainence issues, in all actuallity all i want is to sail in comfort, have adequate lighting, a soft comfy place to lay my head & that of a female, be able to take fresh water shower, etc. etc. The reason for the queston is i am haveing to rebuild inside completely, and would like to prethink installation before the hard walls go in place. Think simple, easy, maintainence. Oh, thanks for the advice about marlone through hulls. I assume it is a stronger/harder version of plastic/pvc? I do plan on a haulout as soon as possible. But would like to get as much done as possible at the free location in the water. Once i haulout all i want to have to do is blast/scrape/barrior coat bottom, remove deck hardware and thru hulls/ rebed and replace, and finally paint top sides and deck. Thats enough work for about a month, maybe, and probably more. Thanks again all. Patrick
Head System
I'm in the process of replacing my entire head system. Everything except for the vented loop and the seacock. Only reason I'm not replacing the sea cock now is that it is stuck in the open position and I dont want to force it until I'm on the hard. Anyway, put on you seat belt so you dont fall over. Inflatable Bladder Tank 42 1/2 Gal : $420 "Y" Valve 65 Head 180 "T" Fitings (2) 30 Macerator Pump 160 Hoses 180 Deck Plate 30 --------- $1065 I think thats everything, but I'm not finished yet. Could I have done it for less? Yes, you could always do it for less. But if I wanted a bunch of old used parts, why would I change it out in the first place. The boat is 30 years old, although I doubt the head system is the original. Tony B
I'm in the process of replacing my entire head system. Everything except for the vented loop and the seacock. Only reason I'm not replacing the sea cock now is that it is stuck in the open position and I dont want to force it until I'm on the hard. Anyway, put on you seat belt so you dont fall over. Inflatable Bladder Tank 42 1/2 Gal : $420 "Y" Valve 65 Head 180 "T" Fitings (2) 30 Macerator Pump 160 Hoses 180 Deck Plate 30 --------- $1065 I think thats everything, but I'm not finished yet. Could I have done it for less? Yes, you could always do it for less. But if I wanted a bunch of old used parts, why would I change it out in the first place. The boat is 30 years old, although I doubt the head system is the original. Tony B
Head System
I'm in the process of replacing my entire head system. Everything except for the vented loop and the seacock. Only reason I'm not replacing the sea cock now is that it is stuck in the open position and I dont want to force it until I'm on the hard. Anyway, put on you seat belt so you dont fall over. Inflatable Bladder Tank 42 1/2 Gal : $420 "Y" Valve 65 Head 180 "T" Fitings (2) 30 Macerator Pump 160 Hoses 180 Deck Plate 30 --------- $1065 I think thats everything, but I'm not finished yet. Could I have done it for less? Yes, you could always do it for less. But if I wanted a bunch of old used parts, why would I change it out in the first place. The boat is 30 years old, although I doubt the head system is the original. Tony B
I'm in the process of replacing my entire head system. Everything except for the vented loop and the seacock. Only reason I'm not replacing the sea cock now is that it is stuck in the open position and I dont want to force it until I'm on the hard. Anyway, put on you seat belt so you dont fall over. Inflatable Bladder Tank 42 1/2 Gal : $420 "Y" Valve 65 Head 180 "T" Fitings (2) 30 Macerator Pump 160 Hoses 180 Deck Plate 30 --------- $1065 I think thats everything, but I'm not finished yet. Could I have done it for less? Yes, you could always do it for less. But if I wanted a bunch of old used parts, why would I change it out in the first place. The boat is 30 years old, although I doubt the head system is the original. Tony B
I'd slow down
Be careful of getting out too far ahead of yourself. First, fix the through-hulls so you wont sink. Then start on components, one by one. Fix one bulkhead at a time. Don't tear out all the wiring and plumbing at once. I gather you are not a boat expert (nor do I claim to be) but each of the components of the boat can be a "template" for its replacement. If you do a general tear-out you will be left with an empty hull and you'll need to figure it all out. Trust that the original builder was a boat expert and replace components one-by-one in an orderly fashion. I love building models and envy your getting to work on a life-sized one!
Be careful of getting out too far ahead of yourself. First, fix the through-hulls so you wont sink. Then start on components, one by one. Fix one bulkhead at a time. Don't tear out all the wiring and plumbing at once. I gather you are not a boat expert (nor do I claim to be) but each of the components of the boat can be a "template" for its replacement. If you do a general tear-out you will be left with an empty hull and you'll need to figure it all out. Trust that the original builder was a boat expert and replace components one-by-one in an orderly fashion. I love building models and envy your getting to work on a life-sized one!
I'd slow down
Be careful of getting out too far ahead of yourself. First, fix the through-hulls so you wont sink. Then start on components, one by one. Fix one bulkhead at a time. Don't tear out all the wiring and plumbing at once. I gather you are not a boat expert (nor do I claim to be) but each of the components of the boat can be a "template" for its replacement. If you do a general tear-out you will be left with an empty hull and you'll need to figure it all out. Trust that the original builder was a boat expert and replace components one-by-one in an orderly fashion. I love building models and envy your getting to work on a life-sized one!
Be careful of getting out too far ahead of yourself. First, fix the through-hulls so you wont sink. Then start on components, one by one. Fix one bulkhead at a time. Don't tear out all the wiring and plumbing at once. I gather you are not a boat expert (nor do I claim to be) but each of the components of the boat can be a "template" for its replacement. If you do a general tear-out you will be left with an empty hull and you'll need to figure it all out. Trust that the original builder was a boat expert and replace components one-by-one in an orderly fashion. I love building models and envy your getting to work on a life-sized one!
Spreadsheet Work Items
Sailorman - I think it may have been said before, about prioritizing work, and that's a good idea. Since you obviously have a computer it most likely has a spreadsheet program available. Organization will help save time and money over the long haul. When we got our boat I put together a spreadsheet of all the things I wanted to do to it - things to buy, fix, whatever. Have columns for cost, shipping, sales tax, etc., maybe labor hours, whatever. Anyhow, that's the idea. Be sure to consider having a column for actual or completed cost and maybe date. Another document(s) can be one in a text format which you can hyperlink the spreadsheet items to. For example, the work on the head. This can be written up in a text document with all the things you want to retain about doing the project, including links to web sites, shopping for prices on things, model numbers, etc. All these documents should be put in a folder, f.e., "Boat", and one with sub-folders with major work items, f.e., "Head". With the completed information you then have a record of what was done and this can be saved as another worksheet or spreadsheet. Completed work can be sorted by date and also grouped by area such as rigging, deck, electrical, engine, etc. Then when listing items you can insert, move them around, prioritize them, etc. It becomes much easier to see the big picture and budget time and money for the work. For everything you buy try to save the paperwork and put that in your boat information folder (or how ever you want to keep the stuff). For example, the thru-hulls will have the make and model info, installation requirements, and maintenance requirements (lubricants to be used and not used). All this will become valuable information in the years ahead. The light fixture will have the maximum wattage of the bulb that is acceptable, or maybe the bulb type. Do you know how many posts have been here about what bulb the anchor light or steaming light needs? Lots. Save the paperwork in an organized manner and you can put your finger on what is needed quickly. Even keep track of what kind of paints or plastic finishes you use and where. For example, if epoxy was used on the bottom and where. What kind of bottom paint, etc. This could all be rainy day stuff, or maybe for those really hot days when you want to stay inside with the air conditioner. Hope this helps. P.S. I'm glad to hear your trip was completed successfully.
Sailorman - I think it may have been said before, about prioritizing work, and that's a good idea. Since you obviously have a computer it most likely has a spreadsheet program available. Organization will help save time and money over the long haul. When we got our boat I put together a spreadsheet of all the things I wanted to do to it - things to buy, fix, whatever. Have columns for cost, shipping, sales tax, etc., maybe labor hours, whatever. Anyhow, that's the idea. Be sure to consider having a column for actual or completed cost and maybe date. Another document(s) can be one in a text format which you can hyperlink the spreadsheet items to. For example, the work on the head. This can be written up in a text document with all the things you want to retain about doing the project, including links to web sites, shopping for prices on things, model numbers, etc. All these documents should be put in a folder, f.e., "Boat", and one with sub-folders with major work items, f.e., "Head". With the completed information you then have a record of what was done and this can be saved as another worksheet or spreadsheet. Completed work can be sorted by date and also grouped by area such as rigging, deck, electrical, engine, etc. Then when listing items you can insert, move them around, prioritize them, etc. It becomes much easier to see the big picture and budget time and money for the work. For everything you buy try to save the paperwork and put that in your boat information folder (or how ever you want to keep the stuff). For example, the thru-hulls will have the make and model info, installation requirements, and maintenance requirements (lubricants to be used and not used). All this will become valuable information in the years ahead. The light fixture will have the maximum wattage of the bulb that is acceptable, or maybe the bulb type. Do you know how many posts have been here about what bulb the anchor light or steaming light needs? Lots. Save the paperwork in an organized manner and you can put your finger on what is needed quickly. Even keep track of what kind of paints or plastic finishes you use and where. For example, if epoxy was used on the bottom and where. What kind of bottom paint, etc. This could all be rainy day stuff, or maybe for those really hot days when you want to stay inside with the air conditioner. Hope this helps. P.S. I'm glad to hear your trip was completed successfully.
Spreadsheet Work Items
Sailorman - I think it may have been said before, about prioritizing work, and that's a good idea. Since you obviously have a computer it most likely has a spreadsheet program available. Organization will help save time and money over the long haul. When we got our boat I put together a spreadsheet of all the things I wanted to do to it - things to buy, fix, whatever. Have columns for cost, shipping, sales tax, etc., maybe labor hours, whatever. Anyhow, that's the idea. Be sure to consider having a column for actual or completed cost and maybe date. Another document(s) can be one in a text format which you can hyperlink the spreadsheet items to. For example, the work on the head. This can be written up in a text document with all the things you want to retain about doing the project, including links to web sites, shopping for prices on things, model numbers, etc. All these documents should be put in a folder, f.e., "Boat", and one with sub-folders with major work items, f.e., "Head". With the completed information you then have a record of what was done and this can be saved as another worksheet or spreadsheet. Completed work can be sorted by date and also grouped by area such as rigging, deck, electrical, engine, etc. Then when listing items you can insert, move them around, prioritize them, etc. It becomes much easier to see the big picture and budget time and money for the work. For everything you buy try to save the paperwork and put that in your boat information folder (or how ever you want to keep the stuff). For example, the thru-hulls will have the make and model info, installation requirements, and maintenance requirements (lubricants to be used and not used). All this will become valuable information in the years ahead. The light fixture will have the maximum wattage of the bulb that is acceptable, or maybe the bulb type. Do you know how many posts have been here about what bulb the anchor light or steaming light needs? Lots. Save the paperwork in an organized manner and you can put your finger on what is needed quickly. Even keep track of what kind of paints or plastic finishes you use and where. For example, if epoxy was used on the bottom and where. What kind of bottom paint, etc. This could all be rainy day stuff, or maybe for those really hot days when you want to stay inside with the air conditioner. Hope this helps. P.S. I'm glad to hear your trip was completed successfully.
Sailorman - I think it may have been said before, about prioritizing work, and that's a good idea. Since you obviously have a computer it most likely has a spreadsheet program available. Organization will help save time and money over the long haul. When we got our boat I put together a spreadsheet of all the things I wanted to do to it - things to buy, fix, whatever. Have columns for cost, shipping, sales tax, etc., maybe labor hours, whatever. Anyhow, that's the idea. Be sure to consider having a column for actual or completed cost and maybe date. Another document(s) can be one in a text format which you can hyperlink the spreadsheet items to. For example, the work on the head. This can be written up in a text document with all the things you want to retain about doing the project, including links to web sites, shopping for prices on things, model numbers, etc. All these documents should be put in a folder, f.e., "Boat", and one with sub-folders with major work items, f.e., "Head". With the completed information you then have a record of what was done and this can be saved as another worksheet or spreadsheet. Completed work can be sorted by date and also grouped by area such as rigging, deck, electrical, engine, etc. Then when listing items you can insert, move them around, prioritize them, etc. It becomes much easier to see the big picture and budget time and money for the work. For everything you buy try to save the paperwork and put that in your boat information folder (or how ever you want to keep the stuff). For example, the thru-hulls will have the make and model info, installation requirements, and maintenance requirements (lubricants to be used and not used). All this will become valuable information in the years ahead. The light fixture will have the maximum wattage of the bulb that is acceptable, or maybe the bulb type. Do you know how many posts have been here about what bulb the anchor light or steaming light needs? Lots. Save the paperwork in an organized manner and you can put your finger on what is needed quickly. Even keep track of what kind of paints or plastic finishes you use and where. For example, if epoxy was used on the bottom and where. What kind of bottom paint, etc. This could all be rainy day stuff, or maybe for those really hot days when you want to stay inside with the air conditioner. Hope this helps. P.S. I'm glad to hear your trip was completed successfully.
While I have no problem..
While I have no problem with the plastic Marelon, it's tough as nails, I do have a problem with RC Marine valves themselves. I have snapped the handles off of three different Marelon valves on two different boats in the last 12 years. Each of the three valves was no more than two years old on a boat used seasonally in New England. While the Marelon itself does not corrode or break, which is very nice, the plastic valve handele stud can and does break and the company does not stand behind the product they way I would have liked. When it came time to install new seacocks on my boat this past summer I passed on Marelon because no one at the company could confirm if they had beefed up the valve/handle design. In a perfect world Marelon is clearly the best choice but unfortunately, the product or at least the three I had break, are not so perfect. I'm not saying they are all junk, as I had 10 more that never broke, but that is a high failure rate at 3 out of 10.. Has anyone else had Marelon handles break off???
While I have no problem with the plastic Marelon, it's tough as nails, I do have a problem with RC Marine valves themselves. I have snapped the handles off of three different Marelon valves on two different boats in the last 12 years. Each of the three valves was no more than two years old on a boat used seasonally in New England. While the Marelon itself does not corrode or break, which is very nice, the plastic valve handele stud can and does break and the company does not stand behind the product they way I would have liked. When it came time to install new seacocks on my boat this past summer I passed on Marelon because no one at the company could confirm if they had beefed up the valve/handle design. In a perfect world Marelon is clearly the best choice but unfortunately, the product or at least the three I had break, are not so perfect. I'm not saying they are all junk, as I had 10 more that never broke, but that is a high failure rate at 3 out of 10.. Has anyone else had Marelon handles break off???
While I have no problem..
While I have no problem with the plastic Marelon, it's tough as nails, I do have a problem with RC Marine valves themselves. I have snapped the handles off of three different Marelon valves on two different boats in the last 12 years. Each of the three valves was no more than two years old on a boat used seasonally in New England. While the Marelon itself does not corrode or break, which is very nice, the plastic valve handele stud can and does break and the company does not stand behind the product they way I would have liked. When it came time to install new seacocks on my boat this past summer I passed on Marelon because no one at the company could confirm if they had beefed up the valve/handle design. In a perfect world Marelon is clearly the best choice but unfortunately, the product or at least the three I had break, are not so perfect. I'm not saying they are all junk, as I had 10 more that never broke, but that is a high failure rate at 3 out of 10.. Has anyone else had Marelon handles break off???
While I have no problem with the plastic Marelon, it's tough as nails, I do have a problem with RC Marine valves themselves. I have snapped the handles off of three different Marelon valves on two different boats in the last 12 years. Each of the three valves was no more than two years old on a boat used seasonally in New England. While the Marelon itself does not corrode or break, which is very nice, the plastic valve handele stud can and does break and the company does not stand behind the product they way I would have liked. When it came time to install new seacocks on my boat this past summer I passed on Marelon because no one at the company could confirm if they had beefed up the valve/handle design. In a perfect world Marelon is clearly the best choice but unfortunately, the product or at least the three I had break, are not so perfect. I'm not saying they are all junk, as I had 10 more that never broke, but that is a high failure rate at 3 out of 10.. Has anyone else had Marelon handles break off???
Marelon thru hull handles
Rod, we did have this reported sometime ago, never got definitive feedback, but it seems there was a "new" design of the handles http://c34.org/bbs/index.php?topic=2729.0
Rod, we did have this reported sometime ago, never got definitive feedback, but it seems there was a "new" design of the handles http://c34.org/bbs/index.php?topic=2729.0
Marelon thru hull handles
Rod, we did have this reported sometime ago, never got definitive feedback, but it seems there was a "new" design of the handles http://c34.org/bbs/index.php?topic=2729.0
Rod, we did have this reported sometime ago, never got definitive feedback, but it seems there was a "new" design of the handles http://c34.org/bbs/index.php?topic=2729.0
Mainesail , Is the problem with Marelon valves
the handle or the valve? Have they cut corners on the design of the handle? Do they provide wrench flats as a back-up? The handle should be as strong as the rest of the valve. I despise domestic plumbing valves that have carbon steel handles and a bronze valve body.
the handle or the valve? Have they cut corners on the design of the handle? Do they provide wrench flats as a back-up? The handle should be as strong as the rest of the valve. I despise domestic plumbing valves that have carbon steel handles and a bronze valve body.
Mainesail , Is the problem with Marelon valves
the handle or the valve? Have they cut corners on the design of the handle? Do they provide wrench flats as a back-up? The handle should be as strong as the rest of the valve. I despise domestic plumbing valves that have carbon steel handles and a bronze valve body.
the handle or the valve? Have they cut corners on the design of the handle? Do they provide wrench flats as a back-up? The handle should be as strong as the rest of the valve. I despise domestic plumbing valves that have carbon steel handles and a bronze valve body.
Ross
The handle itself is Marelon and that's not what broke. The valve ball, the part that turns inside the valve body to seal out water, and the stud the handle bolts to are not Marelon and instead made of a different material... If I can find one of the broken valves in my boat boxes I'll post a picture when I get home...
The handle itself is Marelon and that's not what broke. The valve ball, the part that turns inside the valve body to seal out water, and the stud the handle bolts to are not Marelon and instead made of a different material... If I can find one of the broken valves in my boat boxes I'll post a picture when I get home...
Ross
The handle itself is Marelon and that's not what broke. The valve ball, the part that turns inside the valve body to seal out water, and the stud the handle bolts to are not Marelon and instead made of a different material... If I can find one of the broken valves in my boat boxes I'll post a picture when I get home...
The handle itself is Marelon and that's not what broke. The valve ball, the part that turns inside the valve body to seal out water, and the stud the handle bolts to are not Marelon and instead made of a different material... If I can find one of the broken valves in my boat boxes I'll post a picture when I get home...
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