"Free boat " reflexsions, and realizations

[Ross]

Patrick, with what ever help you can get from your

kids start taking a inventory of the things that you can see needing done. Before you remove the bulkheads get the sticks off her. Coil the standing rigging and label each piece with a durable tag and permanent ink. When the bulkheards come out install a temporary brace from the low point in the hull to the cabin top at each station. As you start removing pieces you will be removing some of the stiffeners. Be watchful about keeping her shape. Measure her in several places for beam and height and record those numbers, use a tic stick to take shapes before you remove pieces where you can. There is a weather proofing putty used by electricians that is good for temporarily plugging above the waterline holes. The leaking through hulls can be helped just by tightening the nut on the inside. If you could get her on the hard for the long term you would be better able to work.

 

[Ross]

Patrick, with what ever help you can get from your

kids start taking a inventory of the things that you can see needing done. Before you remove the bulkheads get the sticks off her. Coil the standing rigging and label each piece with a durable tag and permanent ink. When the bulkheards come out install a temporary brace from the low point in the hull to the cabin top at each station. As you start removing pieces you will be removing some of the stiffeners. Be watchful about keeping her shape. Measure her in several places for beam and height and record those numbers, use a tic stick to take shapes before you remove pieces where you can. There is a weather proofing putty used by electricians that is good for temporarily plugging above the waterline holes. The leaking through hulls can be helped just by tightening the nut on the inside. If you could get her on the hard for the long term you would be better able to work.

 

[Capt Ron;-)]

BTW

Pat, DO NOT go off tearing out bulkheads (the walls) until you repair leaks, nail down the little stuff that can sink a boat...'packing-gland' hose clamps etc..etc ad nauseum...You can get retirees that are experienced to help you, some love tinkering, for some sailing crewing in the spring, a good trade off.

 

[Capt Ron;-)]

BTW

Pat, DO NOT go off tearing out bulkheads (the walls) until you repair leaks, nail down the little stuff that can sink a boat...'packing-gland' hose clamps etc..etc ad nauseum...You can get retirees that are experienced to help you, some love tinkering, for some sailing crewing in the spring, a good trade off.

 

[Capt Ron;-)]

Pearson FMV

TOTAL NUMBER OF SOLD BOATS: 287,491       Selected Search Criteria:Mfgr/Model : Pearson (2721)Boat Type : [(Sail) Cruiser] (71005)Length: Between 30 ft and 30 ft (16947)Year: Between 1972 and 1974 (8488) Total records found: 89  --------------------------------------------------------------------------------Click on one boat to view the full listing, or view full listings for all the boats on this page. Revise Search  Items: 1 - 30 of 89 Page 1 2 3 Next  Length Boats Year Listed US$ Sold US$ Location YachtWorld Member  30' Pearson 1974 21,900 (10/02) 18,900 (07/03) GA, USA Snug Harbor ...  30' Pearson 1974 19,900 (10/04) 17,000 (12/04) WA, USA Sailboats At...  30' Pearson 1974 17,000 (09/03) 15,000 (03/04) NY, USA  30' Pearson 1974 16,900 (05/02) 16,900 (09/02) MA, USA  30' Pearson 1974 16,900 (09/02) 14,000 (01/03) MA, USA Tripp Marine...  30' Pearson 1974 16,000 (06/99) 16,000 (08/99) CT, USA Brewer Yacht...  30' Pearson 1974 9,900 (10/02) 7,000 (04/06) NY, USA Boscola Yach...  30' Pearson 1974 9,900 (10/02) 9,900 (01/03) CT, USA Hellier Yach...  30' Pearson 1974 6,500 (02/05) 4,000 (05/05) GA, USA Snug Harbor ...  30' Pearson 1974 5,900 (01/05) 4,000 (09/05) MI, USA Holland Yach...  30' Pearson 1974 -- (04/05) 6,125 (07/05) GA, USA Snug Harbor ...  30' Pearson 1973 16,800 (08/00) 15,000 (09/00) MA, USA Lawson Yacht...  30' Pearson 1973 16,205 (08/05) 11,211 (05/06) NS, Can Sunnybrook Y...  30' Pearson 1973 15,900 (12/02) 15,000 (06/03) RI, USA  30' Pearson 1973 14,500 (10/04) 13,000 (01/05) CT, USA SAILING SPEC...  30' Pearson 1973 14,500 (10/06) 13,000 (03/07) RI, USA Brewer Yacht...  30' Pearson 1973 13,500 (04/04) 12,500 (06/04) NY, USA McMichael Ya...  30' Pearson 1973 12,900 (08/99) 12,900 (06/00) WA, USA Admiralty Ya...  30' Pearson 1973 12,000 (09/00) 11,000 (07/02) MI, USA Irish Boat S...  30' Pearson 1973 11,500 (03/06) 10,500 (06/06) RI, USA Brewer Yacht...  30' Pearson 1973 10,000 (10/03) 10,000 (01/04) NY, USA Bruce Tait &...  30' Pearson 1973 10,000 (10/04) 10,000 (07/05) ME, USA East Coast Y...  30' Pearson 1973 9,500 (09/03) 9,500 (12/03) NY, USA Boscola Yach...  30' Pearson 1973 9,000 (08/05) 8,000 (09/05) ME, USA Kingman Yach...  30' Pearson 1973 7,000 (10/05) 6,500 (07/06) ME, USA East Coast Y...  30' Pearson 1972 15,900 (07/02) 15,900 (07/02) MI, USA Dilworth Yac...  30' Pearson 1972 12,000 (12/00) 10,000 (10/05) NC, USA Triton Yachts  30' Pearson 1972 9,900 (12/99) 9,900 (05/00) CT, USA SAILING SPEC...  30' Pearson 1972 9,900 (11/06) 9,900 (10/07) NC, USA Triton Yachts  30' Pearson 1972 8,500 (09/07) 4,500 (09/07) CT, USA Sailaway Yachts   Items: 1 - 30 of 89 Page 1 2 3 Next       Home - About Us - Copyright - Terms of Use - Contact Us Copyright 2008 Dominion Enterprises All Rights Reserved.

 

[Capt Ron;-)]

Pearson FMV

TOTAL NUMBER OF SOLD BOATS: 287,491       Selected Search Criteria:Mfgr/Model : Pearson (2721)Boat Type : [(Sail) Cruiser] (71005)Length: Between 30 ft and 30 ft (16947)Year: Between 1972 and 1974 (8488) Total records found: 89  --------------------------------------------------------------------------------Click on one boat to view the full listing, or view full listings for all the boats on this page. Revise Search  Items: 1 - 30 of 89 Page 1 2 3 Next  Length Boats Year Listed US$ Sold US$ Location YachtWorld Member  30' Pearson 1974 21,900 (10/02) 18,900 (07/03) GA, USA Snug Harbor ...  30' Pearson 1974 19,900 (10/04) 17,000 (12/04) WA, USA Sailboats At...  30' Pearson 1974 17,000 (09/03) 15,000 (03/04) NY, USA  30' Pearson 1974 16,900 (05/02) 16,900 (09/02) MA, USA  30' Pearson 1974 16,900 (09/02) 14,000 (01/03) MA, USA Tripp Marine...  30' Pearson 1974 16,000 (06/99) 16,000 (08/99) CT, USA Brewer Yacht...  30' Pearson 1974 9,900 (10/02) 7,000 (04/06) NY, USA Boscola Yach...  30' Pearson 1974 9,900 (10/02) 9,900 (01/03) CT, USA Hellier Yach...  30' Pearson 1974 6,500 (02/05) 4,000 (05/05) GA, USA Snug Harbor ...  30' Pearson 1974 5,900 (01/05) 4,000 (09/05) MI, USA Holland Yach...  30' Pearson 1974 -- (04/05) 6,125 (07/05) GA, USA Snug Harbor ...  30' Pearson 1973 16,800 (08/00) 15,000 (09/00) MA, USA Lawson Yacht...  30' Pearson 1973 16,205 (08/05) 11,211 (05/06) NS, Can Sunnybrook Y...  30' Pearson 1973 15,900 (12/02) 15,000 (06/03) RI, USA  30' Pearson 1973 14,500 (10/04) 13,000 (01/05) CT, USA SAILING SPEC...  30' Pearson 1973 14,500 (10/06) 13,000 (03/07) RI, USA Brewer Yacht...  30' Pearson 1973 13,500 (04/04) 12,500 (06/04) NY, USA McMichael Ya...  30' Pearson 1973 12,900 (08/99) 12,900 (06/00) WA, USA Admiralty Ya...  30' Pearson 1973 12,000 (09/00) 11,000 (07/02) MI, USA Irish Boat S...  30' Pearson 1973 11,500 (03/06) 10,500 (06/06) RI, USA Brewer Yacht...  30' Pearson 1973 10,000 (10/03) 10,000 (01/04) NY, USA Bruce Tait &...  30' Pearson 1973 10,000 (10/04) 10,000 (07/05) ME, USA East Coast Y...  30' Pearson 1973 9,500 (09/03) 9,500 (12/03) NY, USA Boscola Yach...  30' Pearson 1973 9,000 (08/05) 8,000 (09/05) ME, USA Kingman Yach...  30' Pearson 1973 7,000 (10/05) 6,500 (07/06) ME, USA East Coast Y...  30' Pearson 1972 15,900 (07/02) 15,900 (07/02) MI, USA Dilworth Yac...  30' Pearson 1972 12,000 (12/00) 10,000 (10/05) NC, USA Triton Yachts  30' Pearson 1972 9,900 (12/99) 9,900 (05/00) CT, USA SAILING SPEC...  30' Pearson 1972 9,900 (11/06) 9,900 (10/07) NC, USA Triton Yachts  30' Pearson 1972 8,500 (09/07) 4,500 (09/07) CT, USA Sailaway Yachts   Items: 1 - 30 of 89 Page 1 2 3 Next       Home - About Us - Copyright - Terms of Use - Contact Us Copyright 2008 Dominion Enterprises All Rights Reserved.

 

[Patrick S/V Shangra-La]

A journey of a thousand miles

begins with one foot step. Fix the leaks, get some peace of mind that your boat won't sink....then one at a time, finish a task. Remember each time you stroke a paint brush, thats one less stroke you have left. Good luckPatrick

 

[Patrick S/V Shangra-La]

A journey of a thousand miles

begins with one foot step. Fix the leaks, get some peace of mind that your boat won't sink....then one at a time, finish a task. Remember each time you stroke a paint brush, thats one less stroke you have left. Good luckPatrick

 

[frank balcer]

Splash zone

Patrick,the Splash Zone, that Tony B mentioned will work. You knead it together in a bucket of water or with wetted hands, it can be applied underwater and will cure underwater. It can be drilled and does not splinter or crack. Last year I hauled my Pearson 30 for 2 weeks on the hill. As it has a poured keel, there was a small area on the bottom of the keel that the glass was rubbed darn near through and weeped continusally. Applied spash zone, ground it smooth the next day and launched. Nine months later I have a dry bilge. It is as close to a "magic bullet" as they come and i keep some aboard for emergencies. Good luck in the New Year! Frank

 

[frank balcer]

Splash zone

Patrick,the Splash Zone, that Tony B mentioned will work. You knead it together in a bucket of water or with wetted hands, it can be applied underwater and will cure underwater. It can be drilled and does not splinter or crack. Last year I hauled my Pearson 30 for 2 weeks on the hill. As it has a poured keel, there was a small area on the bottom of the keel that the glass was rubbed darn near through and weeped continusally. Applied spash zone, ground it smooth the next day and launched. Nine months later I have a dry bilge. It is as close to a "magic bullet" as they come and i keep some aboard for emergencies. Good luck in the New Year! Frank

 

[Capt Ron;-)]

Advice for a life

Right! Tonyb, who has been posting here some time, has always had something useful to write, I don't know of him giving bad advice ever, except 1,200 nm across the gulf...;-) Joke, and the splashzone is a good one, I keep some abord myself. Good on ya Tony!Stu Jacson has always gone out of his way to post accurate usable information and I have learned much from his engineering and electrical writngs.Randy, Fred Ficarra, and many others including Bill Roosa who is over risking his neck in Iraq have all posted good posts in my humble opinion.Would one and all please jump right out there and way what an idiot I am if I do, have in the past i'm sure, post any that is not accurate information or something I 'just read' rather than know for a fact. If'n ya can't stand the heat git outta the kitchin!I was just WRONG on that garbage dumb dump in the paciifc. I posted an apology too. I couls see someone getting caught up there if they tried to cut the high or a power boat trying a great circle.I try to keep my tiny ego at bay, admit to mistakes, and post what I have some experience or facts about. Sure was wrong on the 'plastic Texas' tho.We all make mistakes, but don't post cause your bored and need to keep in touch, E mail works good for that.

 

[Capt Ron;-)]

Advice for a life

Right! Tonyb, who has been posting here some time, has always had something useful to write, I don't know of him giving bad advice ever, except 1,200 nm across the gulf...;-) Joke, and the splashzone is a good one, I keep some abord myself. Good on ya Tony!Stu Jacson has always gone out of his way to post accurate usable information and I have learned much from his engineering and electrical writngs.Randy, Fred Ficarra, and many others including Bill Roosa who is over risking his neck in Iraq have all posted good posts in my humble opinion.Would one and all please jump right out there and way what an idiot I am if I do, have in the past i'm sure, post any that is not accurate information or something I 'just read' rather than know for a fact. If'n ya can't stand the heat git outta the kitchin!I was just WRONG on that garbage dumb dump in the paciifc. I posted an apology too. I couls see someone getting caught up there if they tried to cut the high or a power boat trying a great circle.I try to keep my tiny ego at bay, admit to mistakes, and post what I have some experience or facts about. Sure was wrong on the 'plastic Texas' tho.We all make mistakes, but don't post cause your bored and need to keep in touch, E mail works good for that.

 

[sailormanbigd]

some strange replies

Some strange replies, but that's what makes things interesting. Guess I'll add some to my pot of chili. Thanks all Patrick

 

[sailormanbigd]

some strange replies

Some strange replies, but that's what makes things interesting. Guess I'll add some to my pot of chili. Thanks all Patrick

 

[higgs]

Haul out

After you strip out your interior, hauling the boat and rebedding all the through hulls may be a good idea. Use good brass seacocks with proper backing plates. It will be a lot easier now, before you start putting in a new interior. I would think you have a 5+ year project here, but swhat else are going tobe doing with your time. When your done, you will have a boat you know inside and out and you will be able to repair anything on it.

 

[higgs]

Haul out

After you strip out your interior, hauling the boat and rebedding all the through hulls may be a good idea. Use good brass seacocks with proper backing plates. It will be a lot easier now, before you start putting in a new interior. I would think you have a 5+ year project here, but swhat else are going tobe doing with your time. When your done, you will have a boat you know inside and out and you will be able to repair anything on it.

 

[Ross]

Keep the location of the through hulls

in mind when you are putting cabinetry back in place. You want to be able to reach those valves quickly and easily. Higgs, I am sure you meant bronze valves. ;D

 

[Ross]

Keep the location of the through hulls

in mind when you are putting cabinetry back in place. You want to be able to reach those valves quickly and easily. Higgs, I am sure you meant bronze valves. ;D

 

[jcherubini]

Seacock location

Ross, you raise a very good point about seacock location. My rule of thumb is ten seconds-- if I can't access and shut off the seacock ten seconds after realizing it has to be done, the seacock is poorly located and the situation must be remedied. This is enough time, once knowing where it actually is, to peel up a simple cushion and lift out a plywood panel, or to open a locker door and reach into a clear area, and turn the handle. Any further labor needed is annoying and definitely not safe.I do not agree that bronze seacocks are the 'only' way to go. As an OEM/engineer my experience with Forespar/RC Marelon seacocks has been that they are the best solution. They are much stronger than you want to believe-- a 500-lb weight slid down the hull into it will not hurt it, and that would probably crack a midlife bronze one. They do not require electrical bonding. They do not add to electrolysis underwater. They are lightweight and easy to install or remove. They are inexpensive and work easily.Cherubini Yacht has been retrofitting Marelon seacocks to all boats that have come in for refit, as well as to all new boats (currently no.34 and no.35). I've done a lot of that work myself.My H-25 has nothing but Marelon and so there are exactly TWO pieces of water underwater-- the keel, sealed in epoxy paint and antifouling, and the SS rudder stock. Unless I put over the ladder.

 

[jcherubini]

Seacock location

Ross, you raise a very good point about seacock location. My rule of thumb is ten seconds-- if I can't access and shut off the seacock ten seconds after realizing it has to be done, the seacock is poorly located and the situation must be remedied. This is enough time, once knowing where it actually is, to peel up a simple cushion and lift out a plywood panel, or to open a locker door and reach into a clear area, and turn the handle. Any further labor needed is annoying and definitely not safe.I do not agree that bronze seacocks are the 'only' way to go. As an OEM/engineer my experience with Forespar/RC Marelon seacocks has been that they are the best solution. They are much stronger than you want to believe-- a 500-lb weight slid down the hull into it will not hurt it, and that would probably crack a midlife bronze one. They do not require electrical bonding. They do not add to electrolysis underwater. They are lightweight and easy to install or remove. They are inexpensive and work easily.Cherubini Yacht has been retrofitting Marelon seacocks to all boats that have come in for refit, as well as to all new boats (currently no.34 and no.35). I've done a lot of that work myself.My H-25 has nothing but Marelon and so there are exactly TWO pieces of water underwater-- the keel, sealed in epoxy paint and antifouling, and the SS rudder stock. Unless I put over the ladder.