False bilge issue Hunter 34

[Capt Robbie]

Just started new winter project false bilge issue. Have owned this boat senses 1983 well Over 30 plus years with this false bilge issue. I have always kept the bilge clean, always flushing it with fresh water and cleaning products every weekend.
I never could get rid of this foul odor that seemed to come from the bilge no mater how clean it was. I found a post on this site about false bilge and think I have finally solved the mystery. After probing the bilge liner (aka false bilge) I drilled a small hole into the liner and found that water was trapped between the hull and liner. Used a right angle Dremel tool to cut out the bottom of thr bilge liner and removed it. Found under the false bilge a 30 plus year old piece of rotted ply wood along with 30 plus years of the most disgusting layer of sludge. The odor of that sludge was horrific. After flushing the area with bleach and other cleaning products the odor seams to be gone. Next stage will be to paint the area with bilge paint and reinstall the bilge pump and float switch in the spring. A few weeks after I started the project so far no more odors. Looks like the mystery has finally been solved!

 

[Allan12210]

Glad it worked for you. We were sure glad when we did that modification on ours.

How about that little screen stuffed in the fuel pick up tube? Compression post OK?

Congratulations on owning your boat for so long. You beat us by 2 years.

 

[Benny17441]

Do not break out the champagne just yet. That water and sludge found under the bilge liner is just a small amount of the many gallons of water and sludge trapped in the hull stringers below the sole. That fouled water will be slowly released into the false bilge once you get the boat in motion. It sets a repetitive situation where you dry and clean and it fills back up. Some have opted to try and flush out the foul water by dumping a chlorine solution into the hull and this will help with the smell. The bilge liner acts as an odor barrier but once it is breached you may understand why the smell was upgraded from "foul odor" to horrific odor". Nothing to do but eliminate leaks and other possible sources of ingress, clean up the water by flushing and pumping and drying the bilge after every outing.

 

[Capt Robbie]

Everything seams good knock on wood no issues!
Boat is a superstorm hurricane Sandy survivor.
Even after all the storm damage no issues with compression post.

 

[Capt Robbie]

Thanks for the tip, flushed out a lot of sludge so far approximately 3 five gallon bucket worth of thick nasty stuff from the engin compartment, ice box, sink, hot water, and all three bulkheads for about thee hrs. Think I got most of it. Your probably wright after I get the boat sailing again this spring more of that crud will make its way into the bilge for sure.

 

[SFS]

I've read the existing threads on this topic, all of which are related to H34 models. I have inferred that folks think this can be done on an H31 as well, but I can't find anyone that has actually done it. Is there anyone out there that has actually done this mod on a H31 (1983-1987)? If so, please post your findings.

 

[Mike Kegley]

Good report! I'm about to take on this project in the next couple of weeks. Taking advantage of the unseasonably warm weather I spent a couple of hours on Sunday flushing the hull/liner from every accessible point on the boat. Eventually the bilge water cleared up. I'll probably do the flush again after I cut out the false bottom.

 

[Capt Robbie]

When you go to cut out the false bilge the absolute best tool to use is a Dremel with right angle attachment with a metal/ceramic cutting wheel. "Best $40 bucks I ever spent at lowes"! As you are aware the space in that area is tight! Try to use a shop vac close to where you are cutting as you cut into the liner, because the tool makes a lot of dust. If you are lucky most of the dust will get sucked up as you cut thru.

I wish I thought of using the vac before I got half way thru the job.
What a mess it made.

When I cut thru mine I made about ten pilot holes along the cut line as a depth gauge. This give my a little more peace of mind.
As others have posted you can expect to have about 1/2 to 1 inch space between the hull and the liner

Good luck!

 

[Mike Kegley]

Thanks Capt Robbie. I don't have the right angle adapter for my Dremel and plan on using a side cutting bit. I've cut some access panels through some pretty thick fiberglass with relative ease with the side cutter in the past. I just need to make sure my initial plunge cut doesn't go to deep. How did you end up attaching the pump and switch to the bottom of the bilge? From what I've read I believe the hull is over 1" thick un that location. Still makes me nervous to drive a screw into the hull there.

 

[Mike Culik]

Yes I have done this "mod"
The H31 also has a false bilge bottom, although not as deep. If I recall it was a gap of about 3/4" with the mentioned nasty crud and wood to clean up once opened.

The best tool for the job is a Harbor Freight oscillating cuter tool.
And yes, what a deference in fragrance!

I continue to occasionally flush the inner hull via the access ports and under V birth with a diluted big box store "plant safe" deck cleaner.
That along with a Nicro Solar vent has made the boat pleasant to be in.

Regards, Mike

 

[Capt Robbie]

Mike,
I have not finished the job yet. I plan to use some west system 105 two part epoxy and thickening compound to make into a paste. Then cut a scrap piece of star board to the size of the bottom of the false bilge cut out (now the true bilge floor) and epoxy the star board to the now true bilge floor. That west system is strong stuff and has hundreds of uses. After the star board is secured I plan to seal the edges with some caulk. Then I with reinstall the pump and float switch to the star board (now true bilge floor). I may use some more caulk on the screw threads if I think that they penatrate the star board. This is overkill I am sure but that just how I do things.

I'm sure that you can mount the pump and float directly to the hull with short ss screws I believe that the hull in this location is about 1 or 1-1/2 inches thick there but why take the chance. I am planing to do it with the star board method for three reasons.
1st it will look more professional.
2nd it will be easier to keep clean.
3rd peace of mind that I don't put a screw completely thru the hull.
Highly Unlikely but again why take a chance if you don't need to.

 

[RvrSailor]

Thanks for the update on this topic. I'm cutting mine out this spring.

 

[Mike Kegley]

Capt Robbie,

I can't help but think it would be nice to figure out a way to eliminate use of the starboard thus keeping the bilge pump as low as possible.

 

[markwbird]

You don't need the starboard. The bottom is there. Lots of folks who have done this painted the bottom but that is all.

 

[Capt Robbie]

Took some measurements to Finnish false bilge project. Made a template of the now true bilge to cut piece of star board and plan to Finnish the job in a few weeks. Still not sure yet if it is necessary to paint with bilge paint or not. I most likely will paint it mostly for ascetics.

 

[CoastLife]

Interesting... Is that part of the bilge that is cut out cored? Is there exposed wood? or is that just fiberglass? Would it require some type of epoxy sealant wouldn't it? I need to do this to our boat. But, It's a block of ice right now..

 

[Capt Robbie]

Coastlife,
Not corded. Mine had a piece of rotted plywood just laying between the false bilge (liner) and the the actual hull. Don't know why Hunter placed it in there. When you cut away the false bilge liner and remove the rotted plywood if you have that, all that is left after you clean away all that disgusting foul sludge is the fiberglass hull.
I would not seal it with epoxy because that will not allow the space betel thr liner and the hull to be flushed clean. I am going to paint the Fiberglas with bilge Côte paint an then reinstall the pump and float switch .

I will tell you that after all the rotten slugd is remove it wil make a huge difference. No more bilge odor.

Note:
when you winterize boat you should always dry out the bilge and then add some nontoxic antifreeze into the bilge then pump thru the pump. Years ago, forgot to do it and split bilge hose and crack bilge pump. Cost me about $150 and all could have been prevented. That what happens when you rush and don't pay attention.

Good luck.

 

[Richard Bryer]

I have never put antifreeze in my bilge for winter- I make sure I pump it down as low as possible, sponge the rest out AFTER disconnecting the output hose and letting the water that sits in it drain back into the bilge. Then I cover the boat.

 

[Capt Robbie]

Finally finished false bilge modification I started this winter.
Didn't used the starboard on the bottom of the bilge cut out.
I just painted with bilge Côte and reinstalled the pump and float switch smaller ss screws directly to the true bilge hull.

 

[Capt Robbie]

Finished false bilge modification