Exhaust flange gasket on Universal M18

[adamv]

I recently did a bunch of work on the engine on the hard - it's been almost a month so very keen to get it back on the water!! I had hoped I could reuse the square 3 hole thick card gasket which connects between the radiator and exhaust flange but low and behold coolant drips out.
Catalina direct do them for $4 but I don't want to wait another week (this $4 will translate into $304 including yard use!)
Has anyone tried using gasket card from Napa or Canadian tire etc for this? Would it need to be coated with liquid gasket etc?
Thanks

 

[dlochner]

Order the correct gasket from CD. In the mean time, buy some cheap gasket card from the local auto parts store and cut a new gasket and install it. It should be more than sufficient to get your boat from the TravelLift to your slip. When the new one comes in, replace. More work for sure, however, to save $330, not much work at all.

 

[adamv]

Thanks yes this is basically what I'm going to do - the question is whether I can just use regular impregnated gasket card (which I have) or whether I need something high heat specific and whether I should add some permatex etc to it?
I'd of course rather have the CD one as a backup and keep with one I made if it can be done in a way which lasts

 

[Stu Jackson]

Would it need to be coated with liquid gasket etc?

Only coat the flange side. Why? Because the engine side is a bear to clean off next time and properly tightened the gasket will work just fine without goop. I goop the flange side so I know it's properly lined up before I slide it on to the studs.

 

[Ralph Johnstone]

whether I should add some permatex etc to it?

Try some temporary gasket material but be careful what you coat the gasket with. You don't want just "Permatex" on the flange faces. It must be Permatex Anti Seize. Permatex sealants are difficult to remove even if the flanges are sitting in your lap. Place the flange face attached to the engine in a difficult location and -you-will-lose-it- trying to get it clean. A sealant is not required on these flanges as the exhaust pressure is near zero.

My exhaust flange faces are nearly inaccessible and I refuse to remove the riser just to clean it. Once you are back there, you are working blind The stud guides shown are removed and replaced in order with the original grade 8 bolts. Both flange faces and the gasket are well coated and the gasket drops away when the flange faces are separated.

 

[adamv]

Thanks everyone so I have silver anti seize spray and gasket material from napa. It's for high temp and coolant. I didn't realise but turns out it's adhesive on on side.
Should the adhesive side be on the flange side and anti seize on the manifold side?
Thanks

 

[Stu Jackson]

Should the adhesive side be on the flange side and anti seize on the manifold side?

If you must, then yes. Please note that Ralph's engine and pictures are different than your Kubota engine.
I still recommend nothing on the manifold side, and NON-adhesive gasket material on the riser/flange side because you want to/have to eventually remove that gasket material from the flange next time. You don't need an adhesive for a stud/nut connection. Make it easier for yourself now for later.

 

[adamv]

If you must, then yes. Please note that Ralph's engine and pictures are different than your Kubota engine.
I still recommend nothing on the manifold side, and NON-adhesive gasket material on the riser/flange side because you want to/have to eventually remove that gasket material from the flange next time. You don't need an adhesive for a stud/nut connection. Make it easier for yourself now for later.

Thanks okay so sounds it's probably best to spray the anti seize over the adhesive to make life easier later

 

[Stu Jackson]

Thanks okay so sounds it's probably best to spray the anti seize over the adhesive to make life easier later

Have you considered just doing it right the first time with the proper materials? The lengths folks go to do things wrong astounds me. I believe we've all seen this quote: It doesn't take you twice as long to do it wrong...

 

[Ralph Johnstone]

Thanks okay so sounds it's probably best to spray the anti seize over the adhesive to make life easier later

I'd spray anti-seize on everything that doesn't move, and if in doubt, spray a few of the things that do move as well. Small children are one example.

As shown in post #4, I put so much anti-seize on the gaskets and flanges that when the joint is opened up years later, it can drop down behind the engine if not caught first. Without the anti-seize, it is near impossible to see and clean the flange face on the engine exhaust outlet.

 

[adamv]

Have you considered just doing it right the first time with the proper materials? The lengths folks go to do things wrong astounds me. I believe we've all seen this quote: It doesn't take you twice as long to do it wrong...

Thanks Stu, yes I've ordered the correct gasket from CD so this is just to tide me over. I'm fortunate that the riser and flange are two things on the boat which are easy to access so this just has to get me to the slip so I'm not paying a week extra being on the hard.