Deck restoration/painting. What will it take?

[AP0196]

Okay so im the proud new owner of a cat 22. The deck/cockpit/rubrail could be in better shape. I’d like to get this boat looking as best I can with my skill level and resources, which admittedly isn’t much.
The PO owner freely admitted he used rustoleum from a spray can to paint the deck (wut) so my current plan it to sand it all down as much as necessary to get a good surface.
My questions.
1. Spiderweb cracks in the paint/fiberglass. Can I sand it down and hope it’s surface level? Or do I need to dremel it out and epoxy it? What kind of epoxy is best?
2. The cock pit floor is uneven. Is laying down a complete sheet of new fiberglass the way or can I use a thickened epoxy and sand it even by look.
3. At what point do you sand so much you need a fairing compound?
4. Is a new layer of gelcoat necessary? Or can I go straight to primer?
5. If I sand through the nonskid, im guessing I need to tape off the nonskid areas and use a nonskid paint. But if I sand it smooth how do I know where to tape it off?? Can I just paint the whole deck nonskid? Or would that look horrible?
6. Is a two part paint absolutely necessary or could I get 90% of the results with a good one part?

I know it’s a lot and there’s lots of threads on this so I appreciate whoever actually reads this. This boat is my life now and I’d like to give her the facelift she deserves! Thank you

 

[Project_Mayhem]

Don't under estimate the amount of time this can take if done properly. Paint only last so long before it starts peeling or deteriorating. Once you prep and paint, you can't go back so let's see what the deck looks like. Your hull looks decent.

There's an appliance spray paint that's a super close match to Catalina's white. I discovered someone had used spray paint on the back of my boat after I had it detailed. It can't be seen unless I point it out up close

I'd recommend sailing it as is for a season and then see what you're still interested in rehabbing.

 

[AP0196]

Appreciate the reply! Im not with the boat currently but here’s what I have of the deck. Structurally it’s in good shape. No soft spots that ive found. But the up close the paint has seen better days, and there’s damage to the sliding hatch.

 

[dlochner]

The spider cracks are gelcoat crazing, something quite common in older boats. It is cosmetic, not structural. They can be repaired but it is a time consuming tedious job.

The damage in image 0574, does need to be repaired. Where on the boat is that damage?

 

[AP0196]

Whats all involved in repairing the gel coat cracks? And it I sand/prime/paint over it without full on grinding it out and epoxying it will it eventually come through the new paint?
The damage is to the sliding top hatch. I plan to remove that along with the teach rails and restore them this winter.

 

[Project_Mayhem]

I'd prioritize that repair. Dave has offered me some wonderful advice over the years (Thanks @dlochner!). Trust in Dave

 

[capta]

If you decide to go ahead with this project, you can replace the original non-slip deck look.
I was going to explain how to get a male mold to reproduce your non-slip on the deck, but they actually sell it here; Patterns | Gibco Flex-Mold, Non Skid Surfaces
Well, I was doing repairs in far off lands and had to work that stuff out for myself. That's my excuse, anyway.

 

[jssailem]

A good resource for your project would be Andy at BoatworksToday.com.

His ideas and shared skills have helped many a boat owner. Me included.

 

[AP0196]

Thanks for the replies everyone! I will check out the resources!

 

[PaulK]

You are learning from the Rustoleum that if you paint, you will paint again. Painting with 2 part polyurethane allows you to wait ten or more years before having to do it again. We found Interlux Interdeck looked 90% as good as 2 part paint for about a season before needing touch-ups and more attention. Another single-part paint - Brightsides (now discontinued IIRC) lasted about a week in a sample patch we did on deck. It was simply not tough enough for getting walked on. Since the preparation for both 1 and 2-part paints is essentially the same it is less work and expense over the long term to go with 2-part. It calls for a LOT of work and the directions need to be followed scrupulously at each step. These include temperature, humidity and wind conditions, so doing the project inside a garage might be a good idea. Good luck.