Boom rigging
- Thread starter John6275
- Start date
@Hunter216
No worries. I'm just glad I'm able to help.
@John6275
Be sure to post more photos of your boat. Being such a rare model, I'm curious to see how it compares with my Siren and others in it's size. According to SailboatData.com, they only built 22 of your Weekenders!
No worries. I'm just glad I'm able to help.
@John6275
Be sure to post more photos of your boat. Being such a rare model, I'm curious to see how it compares with my Siren and others in it's size. According to SailboatData.com, they only built 22 of your Weekenders!
Your newest photos didn't include this item. I remain curious about what that is??
Ok, cool. I was replying that you should just reverse the block, but then I saw there was another page of replies... So, yeah, you should be good now.
I like to use this riveter for pulling stainless steel rivets: 17-1/2 In Heavy Duty Hand Riveter Set With Collection Bottle and I always coat the rivets and SS hardware where they contact aluminum generously with Ultra Tef-gel, which is a teflon paste which insulates the SS and AL to prevent galvanic corrosion.
too late on the Ultra Tef-gel. Never heard of that but will look into it. I did get the block reversed and used my compressor driven riveter to attach the rivets.
i am having difficulties with the app and adding pics today. i think it has to do with the droid update i did this morning.
So, I will post pics as soon as I get it worked out. Pics of the new set up as well as backstay set up etc.
Also, I did start removing all shrouds when trailering as suggested. much neater and cleaner as well as I'm sure better for them.
regarding the shrouds, how tight should they be, esp the upper and lower on port and starboard sides? It appears my lowers are adjusted on to their limit and seem a little loose to me.
i am having difficulties with the app and adding pics today. i think it has to do with the droid update i did this morning.
So, I will post pics as soon as I get it worked out. Pics of the new set up as well as backstay set up etc.
Also, I did start removing all shrouds when trailering as suggested. much neater and cleaner as well as I'm sure better for them.
regarding the shrouds, how tight should they be, esp the upper and lower on port and starboard sides? It appears my lowers are adjusted on to their limit and seem a little loose to me.
Lots of posts here about standing rigging tuning posted by people a lot more knowledgeable than me but your comment about the lower shroud turnbuckles being maxed out and still loose concerns me. Hard to tell without photos of the full boat rigged but it’s a reasonable assumption that they weren’t like that when new so what has changed. My concern is that if there isn’t much adjustment left in any of the turnbuckles including the lowers you mention that would imply the top of the mast is lower than original spec. or a previous owners did a really poor job replacing the standing rigging. Maybe a wedge is missing at the mast step or a compression post or bulkhead in the structure of the hull is compromised. I guess my point is you probably shouldn’t sail the boat again until you sort this out.
Great job on the reefing. Did you notice how much flatter the sail is when reefed?
That certainly looks like an adjustable backstay to me. Lots of nice gear on your boat! Again respectful suggestion to read up on its usage before you crank on it.
I hope I haven’t caused stress about my standing rigging comment. If you can take some photos of the entire boat with mast up, turnbuckles, mast step etc it might lead to figuring out what’s up so you can get out on the water.
That certainly looks like an adjustable backstay to me. Lots of nice gear on your boat! Again respectful suggestion to read up on its usage before you crank on it.
I hope I haven’t caused stress about my standing rigging comment. If you can take some photos of the entire boat with mast up, turnbuckles, mast step etc it might lead to figuring out what’s up so you can get out on the water.
Take a photo of the lower mast inside the cabin, particularly where it meets the hull. On some boats there's often a block of wood under the base that compresses with age.
In your photos, it looks like you have a tabernacle that may have been added to your boat to make it easier to step the mast. Without one, you have to balance the mast vertically, drop it down through the hole in the top of the cabin, and align it with the base on the hole, all the while balancing yourself and hoping you don't fall off the boat! My DaySailer II was like that. After stepping the mast one time, I bought the tabernacle to avoid ever having to do that again. Anyway, it's a DIY project to add the tabernacle. You make two cuts on the mast, add the tabernacle in between, and secure them in place with tapped bolts. If this is the case on your boat, it's possible that one of the POs cut too much of the mast when installing it, which in turn causes your shrouds to be too long.
In your photos, it looks like you have a tabernacle that may have been added to your boat to make it easier to step the mast. Without one, you have to balance the mast vertically, drop it down through the hole in the top of the cabin, and align it with the base on the hole, all the while balancing yourself and hoping you don't fall off the boat! My DaySailer II was like that. After stepping the mast one time, I bought the tabernacle to avoid ever having to do that again. Anyway, it's a DIY project to add the tabernacle. You make two cuts on the mast, add the tabernacle in between, and secure them in place with tapped bolts. If this is the case on your boat, it's possible that one of the POs cut too much of the mast when installing it, which in turn causes your shrouds to be too long.
Interesting, I will include those pics as well. Raining here today and tomorrow and she is covered. Hopefully Sunday will be decent.
it's strange that only the lower shroud turnbuckle seem to be adjusted to their limits (unless I'm looking at them incorrectly).
it's strange that only the lower shroud turnbuckle seem to be adjusted to their limits (unless I'm looking at them incorrectly).
While your waiting for better weather here are a couple of photos to consider with regard to how your mast might be stepped.
I grabbed them from the photo you posted about the PO info.
If I’m correct the yellow circle looks like there is a compression post in the cabin and the tech drawing indicates the mast is stepped on the coach roof. If that is the case on your actual boat and there is no sign of any “sag” in the coach roof due to a comprised post etc then the fix might be pretty simple. If there is sag things are a little more complicated.
I grabbed them from the photo you posted about the PO info.
If I’m correct the yellow circle looks like there is a compression post in the cabin and the tech drawing indicates the mast is stepped on the coach roof. If that is the case on your actual boat and there is no sign of any “sag” in the coach roof due to a comprised post etc then the fix might be pretty simple. If there is sag things are a little more complicated.
Regarding your pics with the main reefed, it looks pretty good to me. Some thoughts, my main halyard comes down the starboard side of the mast, and my reef line cheek block and cleat are also on the starboard side of the boom, as well as the reefing hook on the gooseneck. So I completely stay on the starboard side as I reef, which is convenient as one could make the case that you are the stand-on vessel if hove-to on starboard tack (which is how I do while reefing.)
If your halyard is on the port side of the mast, and we know your reef line and hardware is all on the port side, I would also hook the tack reef cringle on the port side reef hook if it were more convenient.
I would replace your white reefing line with some 3/16" polyester double braid line at a minimum, 1/4" if your clam cleat can handle it. The line you have looks to be some form of home store nylon, which is not strong enough and way too stretchy for sailing application. I use New England Ropes VPC for my reefing and control lines. It's a blended core for less stretch, but not as expensive as high performance stuff like Dyneema cored line. VPC: Performance Cruising - New England Ropes But honestly, for cruising/non-racing boats, any double braid polyester such as NER Sta-set or similar is fine, and more economical. I waste a lot of money on my boat...
Sta-set: Performance Cruising - New England Ropes
If your halyard is on the port side of the mast, and we know your reef line and hardware is all on the port side, I would also hook the tack reef cringle on the port side reef hook if it were more convenient.
I would replace your white reefing line with some 3/16" polyester double braid line at a minimum, 1/4" if your clam cleat can handle it. The line you have looks to be some form of home store nylon, which is not strong enough and way too stretchy for sailing application. I use New England Ropes VPC for my reefing and control lines. It's a blended core for less stretch, but not as expensive as high performance stuff like Dyneema cored line. VPC: Performance Cruising - New England Ropes But honestly, for cruising/non-racing boats, any double braid polyester such as NER Sta-set or similar is fine, and more economical. I waste a lot of money on my boat...
Sta-set: Performance Cruising - New England Ropes
so, currently my main haylard is on the starboard side but what you said makes since so I'll see if it can be easily switched. I thought as far as hooks for reefing it depended on conditios, etc. and you went with the hook that worked best?
the line is double breaded from Academy, so lower end I'm sure. cleat will not accommodate larger.
thanks for info. I will keep learning.
the line is double breaded from Academy, so lower end I'm sure. cleat will not accommodate larger.
thanks for info. I will keep learning.
So, while I'm waiting on better weather for pics, as far as the back stay goes, it appears in pics of boats supplied that it should be braided lines and mine is steel cable. Thoughts on changing that back? One block is defective due to cable getting stuck over time, so replacing it. They all appear to be set up for line rather than cable.
Also, thoughts on changing haylards from cable to braided lines and adding blocks at base of mast (some how/way) and cleats further aft to allow for single handling from cockpit? Is it a good idea? Better left as is?
Also, thoughts on changing haylards from cable to braided lines and adding blocks at base of mast (some how/way) and cleats further aft to allow for single handling from cockpit? Is it a good idea? Better left as is?