Boom rigging

Oct 18, 2019
129
Johnson 18 Weekender 4 corners marina
My wife and I are new to sailing. We are currently studying course material for a sail in learn in St Vincent the first part of December. We bought a Johnson 18 Weekender to have a step up when we started the course as it will be 101, 103, 104 and 114. There were only about 20 to 24 of these made, so very little on line. I'm sure my issue is generic so I'm looking for some help here. The boat did not come with a boom-vang attached but I believe I found the system intended for it. IN addition there is nothing rigged on the rear of the boom for reefing the main. However, there is a pulley as well as cleat near the stern end of the boom. I am going to attach photos of the boom and points in hope someone can help me install what I need. Hopefully someone has a similar boom set up and can send me some pics. Thanks for the help.
 

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Nov 23, 2018
46
Vandestadt & McGruer Ltd. Siren 17 Choctawhatchee Bay
I'll take a shot... I edited your photos to make it more simple.

The red line is where the boom vang attaches to the mast and boom. The blue line is for jiffy reefing. The line should start from the padeye on the end of the boom, go up to the reef point on the sail, down to a block on the opposite side of the boom, and forward to the cleat. This setup was very similar to what was on my 17' O'Day DaySailer.

And the last photo is the boom vang on my Siren, just to give you an idea what one looks like.
 

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Sep 22, 2018
1,869
Hunter 216 Kingston
First of all welcome to the forum and also to the sailing community in general.

I don’t see a pulley near the end of the boom for reefing. What makes sense from what I see is you tie a length of line to the padeye on the boom I see in the last photo. The line would run up and through the reef cringle (grommet in the sail), then down the other side, through the cheek block (pulley that you mention) and to the cleat I see in photo 2. To reef you lower the sail, hook the forward cringle over the horn and retighten the mainsail halyard, tighten the reef line and sail on. With the cleat near the mast on the boom you can reach everything from the cockpit.

There are some other things I see in the photos that have me curious as to their purpose. There is a cable tied off to the bail on the mast?? There is a rope and what appears to be a cable tied to the aft end of the boom in photo 5???

Hope this helps.
 
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Oct 18, 2019
129
Johnson 18 Weekender 4 corners marina
thanks to you both. Added a couple more pics.
So, the reefing line will attach on the starboard side of the boom aft, at the cleat (not sure what that type of point is called as I have not seen it in any of the books yet) and go up through the reef cringle and then down to the pully on port side aft on the boom. Then run forward to the cleat on the port side near the gooseneck on the boom.....correct?
The new pic of the blue sheet system is I believe for the boom-vang. Not sure what the one cleat on the starboard side of the boom is for near the gooseneck. Unless it is for the end of the line through the outhaul, which is not that long.
I believe something might be missing on aft end of boom but not sure. The line around the end of the boom is attached to the topping lift. Not sure if that's the norm on this type or not.
Attaching a pic of boat the day we got it. Still cleaning and fixing on it but we are using it.
 

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Oct 18, 2019
129
Johnson 18 Weekender 4 corners marina
"There are some other things I see in the photos that have me curious as to their purpose. There is a cable tied off to the bail on the mast?? There is a rope and what appears to be a cable tied to the aft end of the boom in photo 5???"

The line and cable on base of mast is how they had the haylards tied off to keep them from going over the top pulley. I believe that one is for the jib. On the aft of the boom is the line I mentioned above and the cable and pulley are for the outhaul....I believe.
 
Sep 22, 2018
1,869
Hunter 216 Kingston
thanks to you both. Added a couple more pics.
So, the reefing line will attach on the starboard side of the boom aft, at the cleat (not sure what that type of point is called as I have not seen it in any of the books yet) PADEYE and go up through the reef cringle and then down to the pully CHEEK BLOCK on port side aft on the boom. Then run forward to the cleat on the port side near the gooseneck on the boom.....correct? CORRECT

The new pic of the blue sheet system is I believe for the boom-vang. CORRECT

Not sure what the one cleat on the starboard side of the boom is for near the gooseneck. ( I see a grey colored jam cleat on the port side but no cleat at all on the starboard? The jamb cleat is for the end of the reefing line) Unless it is for the end of the line through the outhaul, which is not that long. (How is the outhaul cleated now?)

I believe something might be missing on aft end of boom but not sure. The line around the end of the boom is attached to the topping lift. Not sure if that's the norm on this type or not. (you don't have a rigid vang to hold the boom up when you drop the main so it's normal to have a topping lift for that purpose otherwise the aft end of the boom ends up on the cockpit floor. An adjustable topping lift can also be used to shape the sail in light wind)
Attaching a pic of boat the day we got it. Still cleaning and fixing on it but we are using it.
My comments/questions in RED
 
Sep 22, 2018
1,869
Hunter 216 Kingston
"There are some other things I see in the photos that have me curious as to their purpose. There is a cable tied off to the bail on the mast??


There is a rope and what appears to be a cable tied to the aft end of the boom in photo 5???"

This is in your boatpic6.jpg

boom rigging pic6.JPG


The one piece is the line you define as your topping lift. Just aft of that is the shiny line that looks like a cable with sun reflecting off of it??

The line and cable on base of mast is how they had the haylards tied off to keep them from going over the top pulley. I believe that one is for the jib. (Makes sense now) On the aft of the boom is the line I mentioned above and the cable and pulley are for the outhaul....I believe.
 
Oct 18, 2019
129
Johnson 18 Weekender 4 corners marina
My comments/questions in RED
I'll have to get a pic of it but it appears to be a type of clip on the pulley built unto the out haul set up, kind of out the side of it.
Really appreciate the help.
 
Oct 18, 2019
129
Johnson 18 Weekender 4 corners marina
The shiny cable is the back stay before it gets down to the pulley and splits.
Thanks for your help as well.
Hoping to attach a reefing line Sunday and take her back out.
 
Sep 22, 2018
1,869
Hunter 216 Kingston
I was just looking at the full boat photo and was curious if the black object in the attached photo is a furling drum for the headsail?
C43DB7C3-ED80-4460-953C-01A39CFC27B5.jpeg



The shiny cable is the back stay before it gets down to the pulley and splits.
Thanks for your help as well.
Hoping to attach a reefing line Sunday and take her back out.
If you have a split backstay (typically a single cable from top of mast to a tang and then two cables leading to the corners at the stern) you might also have or could have a backstay adjuster. Basically a set of rollers and a block and tackle rig that let you “squeeze” the two short cables together putting more/less adjustable tension in the backstay. The purpose is to shape the sails as the adjuster lets you move the tip of the mast.

This illustration is a little elaborate but it will give you the idea.

FBCEF9F1-988F-4CF3-97D5-D38A0C606AC0.jpeg
 
Oct 18, 2019
129
Johnson 18 Weekender 4 corners marina
I was just looking at the full boat photo and was curious if the black object in the attached photo is a furling drum for the headsail?
View attachment 171007




If you have a split backstay (typically a single cable from top of mast to a tang and then two cables leading to the corners at the stern) you might also have or could have a backstay adjuster. Basically a set of rollers and a block and tackle rig that let you “squeeze” the two short cables together putting more/less adjustable tension in the backstay. The purpose is to shape the sails as the adjuster lets you move the tip of the mast.

This illustration is a little elaborate but it will give you the idea.

View attachment 171008
Yes, that's is a small roller furler for the jib
My back stay comes down and connects to a pulley. Through that pulley is another cable anchored on the port side and then attached on the starboard side with a pulley- cleat like set up. Kinda like the main sheet or boom-vang. Was wondering if that is done correctly as well. I will post a pic of when I have it out and up Sunday. Let me know if I need to change something. Trying to get things set up correctly.
 
Sep 22, 2018
1,869
Hunter 216 Kingston
I hope I’m not stepping out of line but the cables that support the mast (shrouds - stays) look sort of kinked in the full boat photo. I would recommend inspecting them carefully for any signs of damage (broken strands etc). Hard to do if the mast is stepped and they are under tension, easier and safer to check when the mast is down. If you trailer each time you sail and the “cables” are too long to just lash to the mast you can coil them carefully and secure that way for travel, just don’t bend them.
 
Sep 22, 2018
1,869
Hunter 216 Kingston
Yes, that's is a small roller furler for the jib
My back stay comes down and connects to a pulley. Through that pulley is another cable anchored on the port side and then attached on the starboard side with a pulley- cleat like set up. Kinda like the main sheet or boom-vang. Was wondering if that is done correctly as well. I will post a pic of when I have it out and up Sunday. Let me know if I need to change something. Trying to get things set up correctly.
Sounds like an adjustable backstay to me but photos always help:)
 
Oct 18, 2019
129
Johnson 18 Weekender 4 corners marina
I hope I’m not stepping out of line but the cables that support the mast (shrouds - stays) look sort of kinked in the full boat photo. I would recommend inspecting them carefully for any signs of damage (broken strands etc). Hard to do if the mast is stepped and they are under tension, easier and safer to check when the mast is down. If you trailer each time you sail and the “cables” are too long to just lash to the mast you can coil them carefully and secure that way for travel, just don’t bend them.
So they usually all come off? I was securing them inbound of the cockpit with bunggies. Should I do more?
I will take some more pic of it set up to show hopefully get some advise.
 
Sep 22, 2018
1,869
Hunter 216 Kingston
So they usually all come off?
The idea is to not kink the cable at any time, doing so can weaken it and if it breaks bad stuff happens:yikes:
The other issue is you don’t want them flopping around during transport.
So having said that you don’t have to remove them any more than it takes to store them safely for transport. I would probably leave the cables going through the spreaders on and remove the pins that connect the turnbuckles to the hull. Pull the turnbuckle end down to the mast base and determine if you need to coil any excess If you don’t want to coil or the excess is just a little long you can lash a 2X2 or suitable size piece of wood to the side of the mast and then lash the cables to it.

Nice straight lines with no sharp bends is what your after.
 
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Joe

.
Jun 1, 2004
8,004
Catalina 27 Mission Bay, San Diego
Please, I know this may sound trivial, but if I hear the term "pulley" anymore, especially from our "experienced" forum members, I'm gonna scream!
Here's some pictures.... You don't really need a high powered backstay adjuster on a boat this size.... some of the pictures show a mid cockpit traveler, others show the split mainsheet version with no traveler to allow space for the tiller.... study the pictures... try linking to various ones to get more.
 
Oct 18, 2019
129
Johnson 18 Weekender 4 corners marina
The idea is to not kink the cable at any time, doing so can weaken it and if it breaks bad stuff happens:yikes:
The other issue is you don’t want them flopping around during transport.
So having said that you don’t have to remove them any more than it takes to store them safely for transport. I would probably leave the cables going through the spreaders on and remove the pins that connect the turnbuckles to the hull. Pull the turnbuckle end down to the mast base and determine if you need to coil any excess If you don’t want to coil or the excess is just a little long you can lash a 2X2 or suitable size piece of wood to the side if the mast and then lash the cables to it.

Nice straight lines with no sharp bends is what your after.
I will look into tomorrow and get some more pics. I have note noticed any kinks but I want to be sure now.
 
Sep 22, 2018
1,869
Hunter 216 Kingston
I will look into tomorrow and get some more pics. I have note noticed any kinks but I want to be sure now.
They are likely OK but it’s good safe sailing practice to inspect things all the time so you can know if something is getting worn or tired before you find yourself in a pickle out on the water. I applaud the fact that you are learning as much as you can about your boat.
 
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Oct 18, 2019
129
Johnson 18 Weekender 4 corners marina
Well weather was beautiful today but no wind so no sailing and no pics. I did replace my main and jib halyard lines as well as the jib furler line.
As my small boat has no extra cleats I'm curious how much extra line should I have on each halyard and how much is too much extra? The PO had both rigged where they tied together at the base of the mast in a mess but kept excess up and ends from coming loose and over the mast head. Probably not a bad idea but I'm sure not the right way from what I'm studying now. However , I have no place to hang excess line but maybe I could add some cleats to the mast?
Also, it appears my main sail should have slugs on the luff to slide up the mast and mine does not.
Going to set the mast tomorrow and check these things out, take some pics and post for help and direction.
 
Nov 23, 2018
46
Vandestadt & McGruer Ltd. Siren 17 Choctawhatchee Bay
I was looking up the very same information the other day! The rule of thumb with jib sheets is 1.5 times the boat length, or sufficient length that the lazy sheet can reach the clew other side of the boat. As for the mainsheet, it needs to be long enough to allow the boom to achieve a broad reach and still have about four feet left in the cockpit.

It appears in your photos that your mainsail has a bolt rope. You can feed it into the mast opening, the same as you would with slugs. You can add slugs to the sail if you like, which allow for easier hoisting and furling.
 
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