Bedding Deck Hardware With Bed-It Butyl Tape

[Steve Dion]

Re: Bedding Hardware With Butyl Tape

One of the most overlooked advantages of the high quality bed-it butyl tape the MS is offering is the "real cost". When we open a tube of most any marine grade caulking you have from a few weeks to a few months before the product hardens and it is junk. These tubes cost $5-$20 and when you have an old tube, you just throw it away.

The butyl tape will last indefinitely and the price/qty make it a real deal.

Someone mentioned using 5200 to bed deck hardware. This is probably one of the worst products to use for such an application. I wish that the marine stores would put this stuff behind the counter so most sailors could not purchase it without a prescription from MainSail before they are allowed to buy it (ie: Pseudoephedrine). Some of you are hooked on that stuff.<g>

 

[Maine Sail]

Someone mentioned using 5200 to bed deck hardware. This is probably one of the worst products to use for such an application. I wish that the marine stores would put this stuff behind the counter so most sailors could not purchase it without a prescription from MainSail before they are allowed to buy it (ie: Pseudoephedrine). Some of you are hooked on that stuff.<g>

Ha ha! A class 2 controlled substance requiring a prescription for use. Brilliant! 5200 = Satan's Glue.:cussing:

 

[prroots]

Maybe I missed it, but where do you buy butyl tape and what is it called (mfg and model)? Thanks Maine Sail
Pete

 

[Steve Dion]

Re: Bedding Hardware With Butyl Tape
I just used a counter sink (1/4" - 3/8" deep).

Maybe I missed it, but where do you buy bed-it butyl tape? Thanks Maine Sail
Pete

http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/buy_bedit_butyl_tape

 

[Merlin Clark]

Maine Sail,
I know I'm late getting in on this thread but hopefully you'll see this post.
I'm replacing my toe rail on my old Morgan and was wondering about butyl tape for this application?
The arrangement is a 1/4" through bolt every 8 inches for the hull to deck joint and then another 1/4" through bolt every 8 inches for the toe rail.
Thanks, this advice on butyl tape is golden!

 

[Maine Sail]

Maine Sail,
I know I'm late getting in on this thread but hopefully you'll see this post.
I'm replacing my toe rail on my old Morgan and was wondering about butyl tape for this application?
The arrangement is a 1/4" through bolt every 8 inches for the hull to deck joint and then another 1/4" through bolt every 8 inches for the toe rail.
Thanks, this advice on butyl tape is golden!

That is a perfect place for butyl. The teak often expands/contracts differently than the fiberglass and you wind up with leaks. The butyl is highly flexible and if you do get a leak you can easily remove the toe rail, re-finish if off the boat and re-install it all without destroying a $600.00 piece of teak because a polyurethane sealant would not let go....

 

[Merlin Clark]

Thanks for the info! I was really dreading getting that white crap all over my new paint job.

 

[GaperDelay]

Chainplate - bed or not to bed ?

REF: http://web.me.com/dadidoc/Dadidoc_Rigging/Chain_Plate_Replacement.html

I recently found and replated a CRACKED main aft stay chain plate.

Yesterday I removed my main upper chain plates. Took them to a metallurgist friend and he did an up and close visual with magnifying glass and did not see cracks. He advised me to clean them up, get them shot peened, then passivize and keep using them.

I need to check the others as well of course !

BACKGROUND TO QUESTION: Following removal, I noticed he bolts had sealant around them in the holes - the holes through the hull were coated well, there was some evidence of sealant around he holes at the face of he hull, but 80% of the contact area of the hull and the face of he chain plate did NOT have evidence of sealant, hmmm. Seems that they want a rigid surface between chain plate and hull and the surface area is better left WITHOUT sealant in case he sealant, acting as a gasket, fails as most gaskets do and flex develops between the hull and chain plate.

QUESTION: So, what is wrong with cleaning up the mating area of the chain plate and hull and putting a barrier coat at the small site where the chain plate contacts hull ? Mine, as yours, is an older boat and there is going to be moisture in the hull - so why not use West System with the barrier additive 422 for this small area ?

Your thoughts captains ? Please report in on this !

Mike Barnes
SV Dadidoc

 

[Merlin Clark]

Thanks for the connection to Compass Marine MS.
They got the tape to me in 2 days! That's fantastic service.

 

[Maine Sail]

Thanks for the connection to Compass Marine MS.
They got the tape to me in 2 days! That's fantastic service.

Glad you were happy with the quick turnaround!

 

[SVTatia]

Maine Sail

I got your Bed-It tape shipment, thanks much.
I am also planning to replace the wooden toerail as Merlinuxo mentioned above with bolts every 8".
Further to his question, we will use the butyl between the wood and deck, now two questions:

1) Do you also recommend a butyl collar around the bolt's head that will be "in" the wood or should we use something else?
2) Just to confirm - you will only be able to ship tapes once you get back (after Apr 25), correct?

Thanks

 

[Maine Sail]

1) Do you also recommend a butyl collar around the bolt's head that will be "in" the wood or should we use something else?

Will these bolts have bungs or exposed? If exposed then butyl will work but do this after varnish or use tape to keep the butyl out of the teak.

2) Just to confirm - you will only be able to ship tapes once you get back (after Apr 25), correct?

Business trip was canceled so I am home and shipping. Orders ship out five days per week..

 

[SVTatia]

Actually the bolts will be countersunk with bungs but I stil need something around the bolt's neck, perhaps a bit of ecpoxy then?
To use butyl for this purpose chances are a bit will be on the teak. I wasn't sure about the the teak/butyl relationship.

Thanks.

 

[Maine Sail]

Actually the bolts will be countersunk with bungs but I stil need something around the bolt's neck, perhaps a bit of ecpoxy then?
To use butyl for this purpose chances are a bit will be on the teak. I wasn't sure about the the teak/butyl relationship.

Thanks.

Teak & butyl works very well together and the same butyl cones apply. Under the head and around the bolt shank between the wood and deck. You'll also want butyl the entire length of the toe rail between the bolts. Do not put the bungs in until the bolts are all tight and the butyl has squished out.

 

[SVTatia]

Teak & butyl works very well together and the same butyl cones apply. Under the head and around the bolt shank between the wood and deck. You'll also want butyl the entire length of the toe rail between the bolts. Do not put the bungs in until the bolts are all tight and the butyl has squished out.

Sounds like a good plan, all clear now. Very helpfull as always, Maine Sail.

Thanks Much.

 

[Merlin Clark]

I got 4 hand rails (2 loop), slider rails and companionway tracks installed in a couple of hours yesterday with no mess!
Great stuff!

 

[Maine Sail]

I got 4 hand rails (2 loop), slider rails and companionway tracks installed in a couple of hours yesterday with no mess!
Great stuff!

Glad you liked it!!

 

[stickboy]

Just got my New Found Metals ports in today, I'll be giving the Butyl tape a try on those!

 

[Steve Dion]

Stickboy:

I don't know which NFM ports you purchased but my understanding is they do not need caulking (they have gaskets).

If you do need caulking, this is great stuff.

 

[stickboy]

Stickboy:

I don't know which NFM ports you purchased but my understanding is they do not need caulking (they have gaskets).

If you do need caulking, this is great stuff.

Actually for this particular port, New Found Metals recomends butyl tape. They even sell it but they have the black stuff, not the grey.