The wheel bearings on my trailer make a horrible noise - likely in bad need of grease. The caps are rusted on tight - penetrating oil and tapping and nothing can get the cap to budge. Any secrets I'm not aware of, or should I destroy and replace the cap?
Destroy and replace the caps. They are a consumable and should be replaced anyway.
Thanks. I got the cap off, it's destroyed. Now I am puzzled.
Axle nut and washer behind it are off. The bearing housing will not move off the axle. Tire is off. Can't see anything holding the hub on the axle but it will not move - other than rotate.
Once you wrestle the hubs off and replace the bearings, replace the caps with "Bearing Buddies" to keep the new bearings in good shape.
One bearing inner race may have rotated on the spindle, making a groove which will make it difficult t get the hub off. That spindle may be unusable because of that.. although, some trailers have easily replaceable spindles ..
One bearing inner race may have rotated on the spindle, making a groove which will make it difficult t get the hub off. That spindle may be unusable because of that.. although, some trailers have easily replaceable spindles ..
Thanks for the note about the spindle - I'll take a close look. Rotating by hand the noise is very bad.
... and use silicone-based or lithieum-based grease sometimes marketed as "water proof" grease. You can get "marine" grade grease but you will pay an extra $5 for the word "Marine" on the lable.
I’m a firm believer in Murphy’s laws. When towing anything I always have at least one set of bearings, already greased, a good jack, the correct sized trailer lug nut wrench with extra lug nuts and the tools required to change a wheel bearing along side of the road. (Also a good properly inflated spare tire.) I’ve never had to actually do it along side the road myself but have assisted several others who found themselves in that very same predicament.
A policy of prevention means inspect and repack those bearing every season.
I’m a firm (somewhat anal) believer that if you maintain your bearings every season and you’re prepared to deal with a bearing failure on the road it will never happen.
Also, take a good hard look at your trailer tires and suspension. Dry rotted or tires over ten years old should be replaced regardless of tread depth. Seized spring shackle bolts can prevent the springs from flexing and puts a lot of shock load on tires, the trailer frame and your boat.
Tom G
A policy of prevention means inspect and repack those bearing every season.
I’m a firm (somewhat anal) believer that if you maintain your bearings every season and you’re prepared to deal with a bearing failure on the road it will never happen.
Also, take a good hard look at your trailer tires and suspension. Dry rotted or tires over ten years old should be replaced regardless of tread depth. Seized spring shackle bolts can prevent the springs from flexing and puts a lot of shock load on tires, the trailer frame and your boat.
Tom G
Thank you all for helping with your advice. If the poster wishes me to contact him, please advise. Former retired Hunter dealer
Brand new grease gun, slipped onto the fitting, grease came through before attaching. Gun would NOT be removed from fitting.
I can imagine an automatic lock that requires a slide and release or twist near the nozzle what did the instructions say for the new grease gun?
The instructions tell how to put it into service the first time, but have nothing to say about how to use it. It's a basic gun, no mechanism on the nozzle to releasing.
Google Search
www.google.com
I did search and read and watch several article and videos. Clean fitting and new gun. No amount of pulling & twisting budged it. Ended up pulling the fitting out of the Bearing Buddy. Grease Gun still attached.