And so it begins
- Thread starter 25yearslater
- Start date
Well hows about an update 25? Since you asked I'll tell you. I won't bother with photos until I have all this complete. Rubrail. Snizbot snarfle grunda floble. This is a real pain in areas I didn't know I had. If you are buying the whole shebang from Rudy get it unwrapped and layed out as soon as it arrives. The stuff will stay in a coil if you let it sit this way for an extended period of time. It will take several days of weights to pin it down in sunlight to get it straight again. So the next headache was the holes were drilled at random locations. Somebody at the manufacturer needs a tape measure or one made by a reputable company. Better yet just don't drill them at all. No job is better than a poor job. Couple that with Oday random drilling and it is a challenge to get anything to coincide. The solution was run masking tape along the boat and perforate the tape at the holes from the boat. Remove and apply to the rubrail and drill holes from the tape. Bingo they line up with your boat holes eliminating filling and redrilling. Looks like a drunk did it but the insert will cover these quite well. I have opted to run two full length pieces along each side and which will allow me to experiment on bending around the bow and stern with smaller pieces. This results in 4 joints rather than the original 3 but in the event of a mishap there is plenty that should be left over. Once I get this done I'll update with photos and commentary.
How did you keep the form from distorting where the vinyl insert is installed? Or did it hold it's shape?
Starboard side is on. Caulked and screwed in. Now for the port side. Then I think I'll pick up the heat gun. What type do you have? This is good information for this thread. The more info we can accumulate the easier it will be for others to keep these gems seaworthy.
I wish I could remember, but It's on my boat. I currently use in to soften heavy duty vinyl re-enforced hose when attaching hose to barbed hose fittings.
You have done so much excellent work on Yot. have you thought of adding a PSS - Drippless Shaft Seal? I bought and.... did the installation myself. I bought mine from Deep Blue Yacht Supply. The best spent $200 I've ever spent! Shaft size: 1 inch X Stern Tube O.D. 1-1/2" to 1-5/8". No more packing and adjusting for rate of drip. No more rags under the engine.
You have done so much excellent work on Yot. have you thought of adding a PSS - Drippless Shaft Seal? I bought and.... did the installation myself. I bought mine from Deep Blue Yacht Supply. The best spent $200 I've ever spent! Shaft size: 1 inch X Stern Tube O.D. 1-1/2" to 1-5/8". No more packing and adjusting for rate of drip. No more rags under the engine.
That is an excellent suggestion. I think that will go on the list. Some other posts have rave revues of these. The skank water from the dripping breeds all kinds of nasties in the well aft of the keel. I did quite a bit of scrubbing with a bottle brush to clean it out.
I experimented with a heat gun and an old piece of rubrail. It was difficult to keep the shape of the channel on a 90 degree bend, but it may have been impatience on my part. I have also heard of soaking it I'm hot water.
Let's give this rub rail situation a little more thought. What is it for? To prevent damage from minor bumps against pilings and docks primarily or maybe when tied to another boat while rafted. It will not protect in case of any significant hit. It is also cosmetic in that it hides the screws from the hull to deck joint. From an impact standpoint the rub rail around the bow where the tight bends are is useless and the same for the stern where the other two tight bends are. Why not just cut matching 45 degree angles at the stern and terminate the side pieces at the bends and then use one long piece across the sternmatching at the corners instead of trying to form a continuous bend? Same at the bow? I have had to splice in repair sections on mine so have a little experience with it, as it gets old it gets brittle so small impacts start to shatter the extrusion. Haven't messed with the corner bends however. Just a few thughts to ponder, I know YOT wants to be "original" but this might be an improvement.
So while the rest of you were enjoying a sail or having your families pay you homage, yours truly never rests. Indy is right. First thing this morning it was up to Lowes for a heat gun. A cheap Wagner model. Hey it works OK? Having enough holder on hand a practice bend was made. Just as predicted by Indy the stuff collapses. Bria with the heat gun had the right method. Without substantial heat it is gonna bust. Jibes corner pieces would be fantastic if somebody made them. In their absence it was devise a diabolical plan for bending while maintaining the shape so the insert would fit. Install a piece of insert then heat and bend. This holds enough of the shape to doctor it up after. A spreader tucked in with the thick part under the lip works quite well. Heat the holder and pry out on the spreader until everything cools. If some additional fudging is necessary a flat blade screwdriver GENTLY inserted and pried upon brings the lip out quite well. Only heat the lip very carefully as it is easy to scortch. All this initial bending was done on the boat with the touch up off the boat. Attach the holder on one side first so you have a good seam then bend it around to eliminate a lot of screwing around. Leave extra at the other end for trimming after the forming is complete. So here are the photos submitted for your consideration. And HAPPY FREAKING DAD'S DAY.
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Great info 25, thank you, we can all learn something every day and hopefully now we can do this correctly when the time comes. What is your third picture trying to show? It is a picture of the end of a line dangling from your boat or enclosure? Not sure how it fits into the context of your post.
Is the Wagner heat gun the same outfit that makes those paint sprayers? I tried to paint a car with one once, what a disaster. Another use for a heat gun is shrink fit tubing for electrical connectors, so I'm sure it will come in handy, they are also used to remove golf club shafts by heating the epoxy adhesive to the failure point allowing the shaft to be pulled out. So get some clubs, take some lessons, play a few hundred rounds, and then reshaft a club for a new learning experience. Just figured now that YOT is done you'll need some new hobbies for all your free time.
Is the Wagner heat gun the same outfit that makes those paint sprayers? I tried to paint a car with one once, what a disaster. Another use for a heat gun is shrink fit tubing for electrical connectors, so I'm sure it will come in handy, they are also used to remove golf club shafts by heating the epoxy adhesive to the failure point allowing the shaft to be pulled out. So get some clubs, take some lessons, play a few hundred rounds, and then reshaft a club for a new learning experience. Just figured now that YOT is done you'll need some new hobbies for all your free time.
One other thought, the boat looks fantastic. What are you doing with the below waterline section? Is the hull barrier coated? Will this just be in fresh water lakes and hauled each year? It looks like you have bottom paint on it, just wondering if now is a good time after it has dried out for a long time to do a moisture check, soda blast and barrier coat? Would take a bout a week with all the time to dry the multiple coats.
Joe, was reading your post about n xt spring on the Oday 39 project boat thread. If you get to Port Credit area when doing your Canada run be sure and look me up, would love too see the "YOT"
Will do e-pod. hey jibes, good questions all. The line, not quite sure. Maybe the mate is trying to tell me mutiny is in the offing. Bottom was previously barrier coated by a previous owner. Well at least they got that right. There wasn't a blister on it. This has been a fresh water boat hauled every winter so far as I am able to track. I will be keeping it's home port here on Lake Ontario and have it hauled when the water is about to get stiff. The heat gun was a Wagner model HT1000. Yes they are great for shrink tube and I often use them for that purpose. The finish her up list is down to about 15 items then I will be proceeding to the mast. At this point I am looking at Alodine to bring back the gold color. Nasty stuff but does work well on aluminum. So ta everybody for now but I'll be back.
Tip of the day by Joe 25yearslater. So I'm struggling with the water tank and fittings. Standard plastic hose barbs and pipe thread stuff. Using 1-1/4 nylon reinforced tube. Have you actually tried getting these things on? I know Todd Panta Rei struggled. Heat gun forget it if you don't include this simple trick. The stuff mushes up and doesn't slide. One thing we do with hydraulic fittings that are assembled to hose is lubricate them before we insert. Now don't run for your garage or something and grab the petroleum based stuff. That will degrade the plastic. Beg, plead and make promises to the Mrs. for some Crisco or other vegatable shortening. Smear it on the barbs then heat your tubing and slick as you please it will push right on. In my case I assembled the fitting to the hose first so the shortening allows them to spin in the hose and they can be threaded to the tank and deck fill. Non toxic and non degrading to plastics, what more could we ask.
Hi YOT, you should still get your hands on a varible temp & blower speed unit like the Greenlee unit I'm using. I installed a 1.5" re-enforced hose from my deck fill fitting to my fresh water tank, Just a slight warming of the hose and soapy water was all that I needed. Ho, don't forget to slip S/S hose clamps down the hose before installation.