Is this the strainer your speaking of? Are you recommending both a new strainer and new hoses?
Seacock Quality... Replace?—Currently on the hard.
- Thread starter testingthewaters91
- Start date
jssailem
SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
- Oct 22, 2014
- 23,068
That strainer works. The connection is a 90º and has been down sized to match the hose. There are fittings that will match the strainer inlet.
Look to the pump inlet to identify the suggested hose diameter.
Look to the pump inlet to identify the suggested hose diameter.
Those are brass, not bronze, ball valves (just look at the extend of corrosion dribbling down). I think they are also replacements, not nearly as old as the boat, probably no more than 10 years. The handles are completely shot.
Hamond 8901 brass valve
Oh. And should have spotted these as brass valves at a glance from 10 feet away. These are one of the most common plumbing valves. It is a common model. Expensive, though, because of the high pressure rating. Common around boilers.
Hamond 8901 brass valve
Oh. And should have spotted these as brass valves at a glance from 10 feet away. These are one of the most common plumbing valves. It is a common model. Expensive, though, because of the high pressure rating. Common around boilers.
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My 2GM20F moves quite a bit of water. I am not sure if my intake is 1” or 3/4”.
Also curious why the galley sink discharge is smaller than the head sink discharge….opposite on my boat.
Greg
Depends on the mesh size and as @jssailem mentioned, there should be no downsizing or adaptors to fit the hose to the strainer. I like the Groco bronze strainer basket. And yes, I would replace the hoses. You don’t know how old they are….who knows, they may last a few more years or not. So as others have mentioned, after you replace the thru hull, valve, tail, backing plate, & hose; you can rest assured that you are good to go for many years. If you piece meal the repair, you’re going to forget what components were replaced & which ones are old. I don’t particularly like replacing thru hulls, so when I do, I replace the whole assembly and I am done with it!
I found two holes near the aft section of the hull and I’m not sure what they’re for. Any insight would be appreciated. I need to finalize a parts list for my contractor by tomorrow, so I’m trying to figure out if these require valves—and if they’re below the waterline. Thanks in advance.
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I went through the boat while it's on the hard and checked all the through-hulls. Here’s what I found:
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The larger black hose looks like engine exhaust. The corrugated white hose is the type of hose usually used for a bilge pump, or maybe cockpit scupper. My bilge pump is above the static waterline but below the sailing waterline and has a seacock. My exhaust is also between the static and sailing waterlines but has no seacock.
I wonder if these will need a seacock or if I can get by on these without one.
Careful about that plastic ShurFlo raw water strainer. If it’s inside the engine compartment, it should be bronze rather than plastic. Plastic quickly becomes brittle from exposure the engine compartment heat. Bronze, generally Groco brand, is recommended inside the engine compartment.
Others that have below waterline exhausts could probably say whether they have seacocks on them, but my guess is probably not. The corrugated hose below the waterline would worry me more, but if it’s a bilge pump you’d probably never close it anyway.
It is a bildge pump hose. I guess I would only close it in a catastrophic failure of the hose.
Does that mean those hoses can only be changed when I'm out of the water!? I just thought about this.
I would beware of that bilge pump discharge hose. It’s very close to waterline and if the hull floods at a rate that exceeds the pump capacity the waterline will rise and that hose could become a siphon. (e.g. Dead battery, failed pump or failed float switch). The siphon could be stopped by installing a check valve, an anti-siphon break, or a sea cock. I would want to evaluate further by looking at the entire run, then decide what it needs. Maybe a combination. Maybe it already has one not shown.
As long as the hose is attached to a valve that works, close the valve & you can replace a hose with no worries. If there is no valve, I would be reluctant to change the hose unless you are certain of thru hull exit in relation to water line.
On most boats, the exhaust is above the waterline. You need to that yours is above the waterline and then make a decision to add a valve or not..
There is some risk management balance there. Exhaust hose is much more robust than most other drain and intake hoses, so there is less likelihood of failure there. Also if you ever forgot to open an exhaust seacock before starting the engine it would make for a pretty bad day, worse than if you forgot to open any other seacock. I think (though I haven’t read the spec myself) that ABYC exempts exhausts from the seacock requirement for these reasons.