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  • A
    1975 o'day 22
    will be changing to led lights both mast and cabin along with nav lights. adding solar, adding bbq, rebedding all deck hardware and below water...
  • Monsterfish
    Looking forward to V-berth.
    Wow.....dream home!
  • D
    MacGregor 26s
    Das sind Teakleisten, die aufgeklebt, dann mit Schwarzer Masse ausgegossen und geschliffen wurden. Sieht immer noch aus wie neu.....
  • P
    Marilee-Interior.jpg
    This interior is gorgeous! What type of boat is this in?
  • JohnScott
    DSCN8846
    CHILD LABOR

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DSC00404It was back in Septober or Octember of 2005 that I decided to bottom paint my boat. I hated to do it but it became a pain pulling it out of the water and cleaning marine growth. While I was at it I needed to paint the inside of the keel slot along with the centerboard. To do this the right way I decided to pull the centerboard out and check the pivot pin while I was at it.

DSC00404It was back in Septober or Octember of 2005 that I decided to bottom paint my boat. I hated to do it but it became a pain pulling it out of the water and cleaning marine growth. While I was at it I needed to paint the inside of the keel slot along with the centerboard. To do this the right way I decided to pull the centerboard out and check the pivot pin while I was at it.

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DSC00982 This is all that holds that centerboard in place. You have the fiber pin in which the board pivots on, the two Fiberglas wedges shown below the pin, and the two stainless steel plates that bolt to the bottom of the keel on each side of the keel slot under each wedge. Four 1/4" Phillips head bolts hold the plates to the bottom of the keel. Also there are two S.S. wood screws that go through each of these plates and into the bottom of each wedge. It is important to remember that each of these wedges were adhered to the grooves in the keel slot with an adhesive caulking. This is what really holds that centerboard in place. Make no mistakes. If you neglect to use a good adhesive such as 3-M 4000 or 3-M 4200 to adhere these wedges you'll lose the wedges. You could lose the wood screws with no adverse effects to the board or wedges, but you need to have the wedges adhered to the grooves.

DSC00982 This is all that holds that centerboard in place. You have the fiber pin in which the board pivots on, the two Fiberglas wedges shown below the pin, and the two stainless steel plates that bolt to the bottom of the keel on each side of the keel slot under each wedge. Four 1/4" Phillips head bolts hold the plates to the bottom of the keel. Also there are two S.S. wood screws that go through each of these plates and into the bottom of each wedge. It is important to remember that each of these wedges were adhered to the grooves in the keel slot with an adhesive caulking. This is what really holds that centerboard in place. Make no mistakes. If you neglect to use a good adhesive such as 3-M 4000 or 3-M 4200 to adhere these wedges you'll lose the wedges. You could lose the wood screws with no adverse effects to the board or wedges, but you need to have the wedges adhered to the grooves.

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DSC00981 This is what my board looks like. The board was easier to paint for the first time after I removed it. The pivot pin was still in good workable condition so I reused it.

DSC00981 This is what my board looks like. The board was easier to paint for the first time after I removed it. The pivot pin was still in good workable condition so I reused it.

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O'Day centerboard wedge set up: I'd like to take this opportunity right now to thank the guy who drew up this sketch and posted it on this forum. It's a great drawing and it illustrates how the pin is supported by the wedges and plates.

O'Day centerboard wedge set up: I'd like to take this opportunity right now to thank the guy who drew up this sketch and posted it on this forum. It's a great drawing and it illustrates how the pin is supported by the wedges and plates.

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centerboard wedge hardware: Again, many thanks to person who made up this display. It came in real handy when I needed to guestimate the length of the wood screws that were missing from my plates several years ago.

centerboard wedge hardware: Again, many thanks to person who made up this display. It came in real handy when I needed to guestimate the length of the wood screws that were missing from my plates several years ago.

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IMG 0005b I bought this shackle off Rudy years ago. It's an improved centerboard shackle with a sheave or spool to protect the braid eye splice from getting frayed. The rigging pin has a cotter pin that needs to be checked annually. I found a broken cotter pin last year on it and replaced it. I'm glad I caught it. Actually this is only my second pendant line and since I installed it I've inverted it and re spliced it. The first pendant line wasn't all that bad. I believe that because there is a single sheave up inside the keel slot for this pendant line to ride through, there really isn't going to be much wear on the line. The O'Day 26 has this same identical set up with the single sheave. I'm sure this is because the pendant line pipe that comes down from the companion way step in the cockpit has an "L" shaped bend in it whereas the O'Day 23s and 25s have a straight pipe that lines up with the centerboard shackle attachment on the centerboard. I'm pretty sure that the 1983 O'Day 22 also has a straight shot to the centerboard.

IMG 0005b I bought this shackle off Rudy years ago. It's an improved centerboard shackle with a sheave or spool to protect the braid eye splice from getting frayed. The rigging pin has a cotter pin that needs to be checked annually. I found a broken cotter pin last year on it and replaced it. I'm glad I caught it. Actually this is only my second pendant line and since I installed it I've inverted it and re spliced it. The first pendant line wasn't all that bad. I believe that because there is a single sheave up inside the keel slot for this pendant line to ride through, there really isn't going to be much wear on the line. The O'Day 26 has this same identical set up with the single sheave. I'm sure this is because the pendant line pipe that comes down from the companion way step in the cockpit has an "L" shaped bend in it whereas the O'Day 23s and 25s have a straight pipe that lines up with the centerboard shackle attachment on the centerboard. I'm pretty sure that the 1983 O'Day 22 also has a straight shot to the centerboard.

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IMG 0007b I use wooden blocks. These are 6"X6" X 3.5' that was used for landscaping. 4X4s and power company cross arms will also work just as well.

IMG 0007b I use wooden blocks. These are 6"X6" X 3.5' that was used for landscaping. 4X4s and power company cross arms will also work just as well.

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IMG 0006b I always make sure that the hull has good support when I work on the keel. I know that my centerboard and bottom of the keel is going to need some bottom paint touch up this spring and it's a heck of a lot easier to get my boat in this position to get at the board. I'll also wind up digging a hole under the keel so that I can let the board all the way down.

IMG 0006b I always make sure that the hull has good support when I work on the keel. I know that my centerboard and bottom of the keel is going to need some bottom paint touch up this spring and it's a heck of a lot easier to get my boat in this position to get at the board. I'll also wind up digging a hole under the keel so that I can let the board all the way down.

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IMG 0001b

IMG 0001b

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Loading her on the trailer 3 22 12 015 Well there she is! It's spring and I need to raise the mast on her and make sure everything is in good working order. I'll probably hang the boom with the sail and cover on her. Put up a tarp over the boom attached to the lifelines just as I do out on the water. I need to mount the outboard, fill the lower unit with gear oil, and start her up in a barrel of water. I also need to load up all my gear plus the most important items, like the food stocks.

Loading her on the trailer 3 22 12 015 Well there she is! It's spring and I need to raise the mast on her and make sure everything is in good working order. I'll probably hang the boom with the sail and cover on her. Put up a tarp over the boom attached to the lifelines just as I do out on the water. I need to mount the outboard, fill the lower unit with gear oil, and start her up in a barrel of water. I also need to load up all my gear plus the most important items, like the food stocks.

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Loading her on the trailer 3 22 12 012 OK. So she's raised up high over the trailer and ready to be lowered. Believe it or not, this can be the most dangerous step if you're not careful. Caution: Make sure that the trailer is centered and most important of all, make sure that the trailer is level from side to side. Shore up under the wheels if you have to. Put a carpenter's level on the trailer and make sure that it's not leaning. If the trailer is leaning while you're lowering the boat, the boat's hull could hit one of the bunks and upset the boat right off the stands. The trailer isn't going to move but the the stands will tip, and so will your boat. So keep this in mind. Just make sure that the boat clears everything and the keel finally comes to rest right square in the center of the trailer's keel board. If the trailer is off a little with the keel, just use the speedy jack trick under the trailer. If the boat is too far forward, just move the trailer ahead a little so that the bow comes to rest in roller on the winch stanchion. Just keep the boat level as she descends on to the trailer.

Loading her on the trailer 3 22 12 012 OK. So she's raised up high over the trailer and ready to be lowered. Believe it or not, this can be the most dangerous step if you're not careful. Caution: Make sure that the trailer is centered and most important of all, make sure that the trailer is level from side to side. Shore up under the wheels if you have to. Put a carpenter's level on the trailer and make sure that it's not leaning. If the trailer is leaning while you're lowering the boat, the boat's hull could hit one of the bunks and upset the boat right off the stands. The trailer isn't going to move but the the stands will tip, and so will your boat. So keep this in mind. Just make sure that the boat clears everything and the keel finally comes to rest right square in the center of the trailer's keel board. If the trailer is off a little with the keel, just use the speedy jack trick under the trailer. If the boat is too far forward, just move the trailer ahead a little so that the bow comes to rest in roller on the winch stanchion. Just keep the boat level as she descends on to the trailer.

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Loading her on the trailer 3 22 12 009 Of course, the ultimate ideal scenario would be to pay someone to do this work at the boatyard but I'm low on funds and can't afford the costs. Also, I'm a frugal retired "Geezer" who is always looking to save money. I even cut my own hair, but I degress. Sorry about that.

Loading her on the trailer 3 22 12 009 Of course, the ultimate ideal scenario would be to pay someone to do this work at the boatyard but I'm low on funds and can't afford the costs. Also, I'm a frugal retired "Geezer" who is always looking to save money. I even cut my own hair, but I degress. Sorry about that.

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Loading her on the trailer 3 22 12 006 We're getting there. The ideal scenario would be to use a long thin metal eye beam to support the bow and push the trailer into position in one shot.

Loading her on the trailer 3 22 12 006 We're getting there. The ideal scenario would be to use a long thin metal eye beam to support the bow and push the trailer into position in one shot.

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Loading her on the trailer 3 22 12 005 Make sure the boat is high enough to clear the bunks of the trailer. I've placed a long flat board under the tongue jack wheel of the trailer and I'm pushing the trailer under the hull by hand. It will roll.

Loading her on the trailer 3 22 12 005 Make sure the boat is high enough to clear the bunks of the trailer. I've placed a long flat board under the tongue jack wheel of the trailer and I'm pushing the trailer under the hull by hand. It will roll.

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Loading her on the trailer 3 22 12 001 To slide the trailer over and inch or two one side or the other just place the jack under the center of the trailer and jack it up. If the ground is soft or in this case has pea stones on it, just place the jack on a short plank and that trailer should slide over pretty easy on the jack's small steel wheels. I'm using a set of blocks to pull the trailer over but you should be able to push or pull the trailer over by hand. My trailer is 23 feet long and I'm able to push it over by hand as long as all the wheels are off the ground. Of course, the jack needs to be place somewhere near the balancing point of the trailer. Pretty nifty huh?

Loading her on the trailer 3 22 12 001 To slide the trailer over and inch or two one side or the other just place the jack under the center of the trailer and jack it up. If the ground is soft or in this case has pea stones on it, just place the jack on a short plank and that trailer should slide over pretty easy on the jack's small steel wheels. I'm using a set of blocks to pull the trailer over but you should be able to push or pull the trailer over by hand. My trailer is 23 feet long and I'm able to push it over by hand as long as all the wheels are off the ground. Of course, the jack needs to be place somewhere near the balancing point of the trailer. Pretty nifty huh?

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Loading her on the trailer 3 22 12 002OK. The bottom is all painted and it's time to get the trailer under her. Oh heck, the trailer's crooked! It needs to be slid a little to the left so that the keel lines up with the trailer's keel board. I came up with an easy solution to this problem by using my Speedy floor jack.

Loading her on the trailer 3 22 12 002OK. The bottom is all painted and it's time to get the trailer under her. Oh heck, the trailer's crooked! It needs to be slid a little to the left so that the keel lines up with the trailer's keel board. I came up with an easy solution to this problem by using my Speedy floor jack.

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DSC00406 As you can see in this pic, my boat had never been bottom painted. This was the first time for bottom paint. A word of caution here; Don't apply any paint to the bare hull of these boats until you clean it good with Acetone. These boats may be thirty or more years old but they still have mold release wax on them from when they were molded at the factory. Clean it all off first, then you can apply whatever you want. I like Super Shipbottom Ablative Paint myself. A couple of my friends in the YC also use it. Order it early because Ed has a tendency to be slow. He works by himself and he only makes one color a month. Call and find out what colors are available. If you only need one gallon, the mail man will deliver it. UPS gets and extra $20 for a hazardous waste handling charge. So keep that in mind.

DSC00406 As you can see in this pic, my boat had never been bottom painted. This was the first time for bottom paint. A word of caution here; Don't apply any paint to the bare hull of these boats until you clean it good with Acetone. These boats may be thirty or more years old but they still have mold release wax on them from when they were molded at the factory. Clean it all off first, then you can apply whatever you want. I like Super Shipbottom Ablative Paint myself. A couple of my friends in the YC also use it. Order it early because Ed has a tendency to be slow. He works by himself and he only makes one color a month. Call and find out what colors are available. If you only need one gallon, the mail man will deliver it. UPS gets and extra $20 for a hazardous waste handling charge. So keep that in mind.

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IMG 0005b The shackle looks OK. I found a broken cotter pin in the rigging pin of this shackle one year. I'm glad I checked it that year.

IMG 0005b The shackle looks OK. I found a broken cotter pin in the rigging pin of this shackle one year. I'm glad I checked it that year.

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IMG 0001b I get the boat in this position for checking the centerboard and pendant line Etc. I usually dig a hole under the keel so that I can let the centerboard all the way down to spot paint it.

IMG 0001b I get the boat in this position for checking the centerboard and pendant line Etc. I usually dig a hole under the keel so that I can let the centerboard all the way down to spot paint it.

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DSC01472 Years ago I went out and bought some el cheapo bottom paint from "Worst Marine" that required that the surface be primed first. After getting the paint home I read the small print that said, you need to apply the primer and put the bottom coat on while the primer is sticky. "Oh great! How the heck am I going to pull this off?" The answer was easy. Just stick some 2x4s and 2x6s under the gunwales to the ground, and remove all the stands. I wish I'd have taken a picture of that but I was running against time. Consequently, about the middle of the summer my boat was moving at a crawl. I anchored in a sandy cove and dove under the boat and discovered a soft thick mat of marine growth all over the bottom of my hull. I was scraping it off in sheets. Ya know what? I could have avoided all this by getting some Super Shipbottom Ablative bottom paint and applying it to the bottom at my leisure time. You don't need a primer. It has the primer built in and it has about 62% copper content. It will go over bare Fiberglas and most bottom paints. I've been using this paint for years. One coat can get me two seasons. You can't beat that.

DSC01472 Years ago I went out and bought some el cheapo bottom paint from "Worst Marine" that required that the surface be primed first. After getting the paint home I read the small print that said, you need to apply the primer and put the bottom coat on while the primer is sticky. "Oh great! How the heck am I going to pull this off?" The answer was easy. Just stick some 2x4s and 2x6s under the gunwales to the ground, and remove all the stands. I wish I'd have taken a picture of that but I was running against time. Consequently, about the middle of the summer my boat was moving at a crawl. I anchored in a sandy cove and dove under the boat and discovered a soft thick mat of marine growth all over the bottom of my hull. I was scraping it off in sheets. Ya know what? I could have avoided all this by getting some Super Shipbottom Ablative bottom paint and applying it to the bottom at my leisure time. You don't need a primer. It has the primer built in and it has about 62% copper content. It will go over bare Fiberglas and most bottom paints. I've been using this paint for years. One coat can get me two seasons. You can't beat that.

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DSC01469 As I mentioned, these keel/centerboard O'Days can take the full weight of the boat with the keel sitting on blocks. I don't think that the Catalina sloops can do this but I may be wrong.

DSC01469 As I mentioned, these keel/centerboard O'Days can take the full weight of the boat with the keel sitting on blocks. I don't think that the Catalina sloops can do this but I may be wrong.

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DSC01468 This is just the initial set up on the shoring. When I get ready to raise the boat, I'll block up under the stern and bow, as close to the front of the keel as possible, and start raising the boat with the five stands. I shore up as I raise the hull.

DSC01468 This is just the initial set up on the shoring. When I get ready to raise the boat, I'll block up under the stern and bow, as close to the front of the keel as possible, and start raising the boat with the five stands. I shore up as I raise the hull.

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DSC01467She's almost free of the trailer. I yoost take my time when I do dis. You can't rush "deze tings" you know. (Just practicing my Scandinavian accent.)

DSC01467She's almost free of the trailer. I yoost take my time when I do dis. You can't rush "deze tings" you know. (Just practicing my Scandinavian accent.)

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DSC01466As I mentioned previously, I usually shore up under the stern with blocks first just as a precaution. I don't know why I didn't do it this time.

DSC01466As I mentioned previously, I usually shore up under the stern with blocks first just as a precaution. I don't know why I didn't do it this time.

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