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  • A
    1975 o'day 22
    will be changing to led lights both mast and cabin along with nav lights. adding solar, adding bbq, rebedding all deck hardware and below water...
  • Monsterfish
    Looking forward to V-berth.
    Wow.....dream home!
  • D
    MacGregor 26s
    Das sind Teakleisten, die aufgeklebt, dann mit Schwarzer Masse ausgegossen und geschliffen wurden. Sieht immer noch aus wie neu.....
  • P
    Marilee-Interior.jpg
    This interior is gorgeous! What type of boat is this in?
  • JohnScott
    DSCN8846
    CHILD LABOR

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Approaching Angel Island to tie to a buoy for the night.

Approaching Angel Island to tie to a buoy for the night.

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Sailing back from Tomalles, we averaged 7.1 knots for the whole trip to the Golden Gate. Our top speed was 12.1 knots. Our buddy boat clocked gusts to 35 K (Add his boat speed of 10 K = 45K = 53 mph). Truly an adventure that gets more fun with each telling!

Sailing back from Tomalles, we averaged 7.1 knots for the whole trip to the Golden Gate. Our top speed was 12.1 knots. Our buddy boat clocked gusts to 35 K (Add his boat speed of 10 K = 45K = 53 mph). Truly an adventure that gets more fun with each telling!

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Hiking up from White Gulch in Tomalles Bay.

Hiking up from White Gulch in Tomalles Bay.

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Hobies at Woodward

Hobies at Woodward

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Oliver in lookout mode

Oliver in lookout mode

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Bantam Lake

Bantam Lake

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1st mate Oliver

1st mate Oliver

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outtawater

outtawater

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New Dodger

New Dodger

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DSC00729 This is what the companionway step looks like when it's in place along the sole plate covers. When I first bought my boat I had a heck of a time getting my cooler in the area behind this step. I had to remove the quarter birth cushions on the left in the picture, and slide the 48 quart cooler in, behind the step each time. Boy what a PITA that was!!! After I modified the step, it became easy to lift my 50 qt. cooler over the mounts after removing the step. Last year I omitted those two quarter birth cushions in those cubby holes under the cockpit seats. They really aren't needed and I gained more space for a second cooler and all my gear. My cabin looks less cluttered now and I have better access to my settee compartments in there.

DSC00729 This is what the companionway step looks like when it's in place along the sole plate covers. When I first bought my boat I had a heck of a time getting my cooler in the area behind this step. I had to remove the quarter birth cushions on the left in the picture, and slide the 48 quart cooler in, behind the step each time. Boy what a PITA that was!!! After I modified the step, it became easy to lift my 50 qt. cooler over the mounts after removing the step. Last year I omitted those two quarter birth cushions in those cubby holes under the cockpit seats. They really aren't needed and I gained more space for a second cooler and all my gear. My cabin looks less cluttered now and I have better access to my settee compartments in there.

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1986 OD 222 Centerboard I made a sketch of my centerboard when I had it out. I also posted a sketch of my friend Ray's 86 O'Day 26 centerboard on this site in the download section.

1986 OD 222 Centerboard I made a sketch of my centerboard when I had it out. I also posted a sketch of my friend Ray's 86 O'Day 26 centerboard on this site in the download section.

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DSC01479 Here we see the two boards that cover the pipe. You can see part of the pendant line pipe in the pic. This is where I place my 50 quart cooler and also a small waste basket in the upper left hand corner in the pic.

DSC01479 Here we see the two boards that cover the pipe. You can see part of the pendant line pipe in the pic. This is where I place my 50 quart cooler and also a small waste basket in the upper left hand corner in the pic.

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DSC01478 This the sole plate cover in place.

DSC01478 This the sole plate cover in place.

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DSC01477 As I mentioned previously, this hump is really the outer side of that small single sheave pocket way up in the keel slot. In the pic you can see the small S.S. back up plate with the two nuts that hold the U bolt assembly.

DSC01477 As I mentioned previously, this hump is really the outer side of that small single sheave pocket way up in the keel slot. In the pic you can see the small S.S. back up plate with the two nuts that hold the U bolt assembly.

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DSC01476 The pendant line pipe goes directly to the that hump with a short piece of rubber hose in between the pipe and hump flange. I'm wearing my slippers in this shot.

DSC01476 The pendant line pipe goes directly to the that hump with a short piece of rubber hose in between the pipe and hump flange. I'm wearing my slippers in this shot.

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DSC01475 This pic shows the pipe heading toward the hump which is really the outer side of the pocket in the keel slot. You can also see the bilge pump inlet hose next to the pipe. I have two boards that enclose the pipe and inlet hose and this area is where I place a 50 qt cooler. Also, you can see the mount for my companionway step. I had made this step detachable to make it easer to get my cooler behind it. This was probably one of my most successful mods ever. A real work saver there never was until I came up with this brain child.

DSC01475 This pic shows the pipe heading toward the hump which is really the outer side of the pocket in the keel slot. You can also see the bilge pump inlet hose next to the pipe. I have two boards that enclose the pipe and inlet hose and this area is where I place a 50 qt cooler. Also, you can see the mount for my companionway step. I had made this step detachable to make it easer to get my cooler behind it. This was probably one of my most successful mods ever. A real work saver there never was until I came up with this brain child.

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DSC01474 This is the pendant line pipe that come from the cockpit companionway step. This pipe is L shaped to provide enough space for a cooler to fit in this area of my cabin. The shape of the pipe is probably the reason for the pendant line sheave. That corrugated plastic hose is the outlet for my manual bilge pump which I've never had to use thank God. It goes to a thru hull fitting out my stern and between the rungs of my swim ladder. There's a detachable handle that is used to operate the pump from inside the cockpit.

DSC01474 This is the pendant line pipe that come from the cockpit companionway step. This pipe is L shaped to provide enough space for a cooler to fit in this area of my cabin. The shape of the pipe is probably the reason for the pendant line sheave. That corrugated plastic hose is the outlet for my manual bilge pump which I've never had to use thank God. It goes to a thru hull fitting out my stern and between the rungs of my swim ladder. There's a detachable handle that is used to operate the pump from inside the cockpit.

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DSC01012 My O'Day 222 has a small pocket way up inside the keel slot with a sheave U bolt assembly attached to it. They probably inserted the assembly with a long tool at the factory. The U bolt has a strap welded to it and resembles a bow eye for the winch hook. The O'Day 26 has a similar set up.

DSC01012 My O'Day 222 has a small pocket way up inside the keel slot with a sheave U bolt assembly attached to it. They probably inserted the assembly with a long tool at the factory. The U bolt has a strap welded to it and resembles a bow eye for the winch hook. The O'Day 26 has a similar set up.

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DSC01015 Here's a closer shot of the grooves. OK, so now we were able to remove the plates. The next thing we need to do is remove the wedges without damaging them too much. I took a torch and heated the blade of one of my fish fillet knives and stuck it into the caulking behind the wedge in order to free it. I also did the same with a putty knife blade. What the heck. Luthiers have been using heat to remove guitar necks for hundreds of years, why not use it here? If you screw up the wedge, just clean it up and reconstruct it with West System filler and Epoxy. That's what I wound up doing. Once the wedges are removed the pin won't slide down until you get the grooves cleaned of all the caulking which bring up an important step that your ought to do in preparation for removing the board. You need to Mickey Mouse some way of letting that board down easy so it won't drop down on your head. I took a couple of long lines and went over the top of the cabin with them and tied a Bowline at one end of each line and ran the other end under the keel and through the bowlines with a round turn and two half hitches. I was able to access the line while lay under the keel. I also took a short piece of strapping and cut a V notch on one end and used it to help support the board from the ground. The centerboard isn't that heavy, but you need to be able to control it once you get it free. When you're ready, just loosen the lines and let the board slide down horizontally with the pin sliding down through the grooves. I cleaned the inside of the keel slot and later bottom painted it. I left the groove unpainted for the caulking to adhere to the back of the wedges. Later on after I installed the board and hardware back on, I painted over the wedges.

DSC01015 Here's a closer shot of the grooves. OK, so now we were able to remove the plates. The next thing we need to do is remove the wedges without damaging them too much. I took a torch and heated the blade of one of my fish fillet knives and stuck it into the caulking behind the wedge in order to free it. I also did the same with a putty knife blade. What the heck. Luthiers have been using heat to remove guitar necks for hundreds of years, why not use it here? If you screw up the wedge, just clean it up and reconstruct it with West System filler and Epoxy. That's what I wound up doing. Once the wedges are removed the pin won't slide down until you get the grooves cleaned of all the caulking which bring up an important step that your ought to do in preparation for removing the board. You need to Mickey Mouse some way of letting that board down easy so it won't drop down on your head. I took a couple of long lines and went over the top of the cabin with them and tied a Bowline at one end of each line and ran the other end under the keel and through the bowlines with a round turn and two half hitches. I was able to access the line while lay under the keel. I also took a short piece of strapping and cut a V notch on one end and used it to help support the board from the ground. The centerboard isn't that heavy, but you need to be able to control it once you get it free. When you're ready, just loosen the lines and let the board slide down horizontally with the pin sliding down through the grooves. I cleaned the inside of the keel slot and later bottom painted it. I left the groove unpainted for the caulking to adhere to the back of the wedges. Later on after I installed the board and hardware back on, I painted over the wedges.

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DSC01014 This is what the forward edge of the bottom of my keel looks like. You can see where the plates fit on each side of the keel slot and also the rabbet grooves where the wedges fit in place. I think it's the best centerboard set up that was ever out on the market. Removing the bolts to the plates was a problem. I had two that were stubborn and it took hours to finally remove them. I used an impact driver which was very tiresome after a while because you need to bang the tool while laying on your back. It would be nice if I could tip the boat upside down and bang down on the tool but I honestly believe that a cordless electric drill/driver like a Makita with an adjustable clutch for the Phillips bit in the chuck would work a whole lot easier and better. Less tiresome too. I was told by Rudy Nickerson of D&R Marine http://www.drmarine.com/ that there are two bronze plates embedded into the lead on each side of this keel slot for the bolts to thread into. This is always good to know just in case you break a bolt and need to drill and re-tap the hole for threads.

DSC01014 This is what the forward edge of the bottom of my keel looks like. You can see where the plates fit on each side of the keel slot and also the rabbet grooves where the wedges fit in place. I think it's the best centerboard set up that was ever out on the market. Removing the bolts to the plates was a problem. I had two that were stubborn and it took hours to finally remove them. I used an impact driver which was very tiresome after a while because you need to bang the tool while laying on your back. It would be nice if I could tip the boat upside down and bang down on the tool but I honestly believe that a cordless electric drill/driver like a Makita with an adjustable clutch for the Phillips bit in the chuck would work a whole lot easier and better. Less tiresome too. I was told by Rudy Nickerson of D&R Marine http://www.drmarine.com/ that there are two bronze plates embedded into the lead on each side of this keel slot for the bolts to thread into. This is always good to know just in case you break a bolt and need to drill and re-tap the hole for threads.

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