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  • A
    1975 o'day 22
    will be changing to led lights both mast and cabin along with nav lights. adding solar, adding bbq, rebedding all deck hardware and below water...
  • Monsterfish
    Looking forward to V-berth.
    Wow.....dream home!
  • D
    MacGregor 26s
    Das sind Teakleisten, die aufgeklebt, dann mit Schwarzer Masse ausgegossen und geschliffen wurden. Sieht immer noch aus wie neu.....
  • P
    Marilee-Interior.jpg
    This interior is gorgeous! What type of boat is this in?
  • JohnScott
    DSCN8846
    CHILD LABOR

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DSC01385 I've got about six of these containers which are chock full of can goods and dry food goods. I usually buy it in the spring and store it in the containers and keep replenishing the food stuff as needed during the season.

DSC01385 I've got about six of these containers which are chock full of can goods and dry food goods. I usually buy it in the spring and store it in the containers and keep replenishing the food stuff as needed during the season.

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A sketch a customer/friend of mine did.

A sketch a customer/friend of mine did.

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Island Dreams at sunset!

Island Dreams at sunset!

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Island Dreams under sail in the Gulf off Naples, Florida

Island Dreams under sail in the Gulf off Naples, Florida

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Island Dreams on a breezy day in the Gulf! Check out the Opti's in the background!

Island Dreams on a breezy day in the Gulf! Check out the Opti's in the background!

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DSC01108 I used to attach my yacht ensign to my backstay years ago till I got an idea of making a flag staff out of a short 1" S.S. pipe. I took the pipe to the marine fabricator one day and had him put a bend in it for me. I made a round cap out of a piece of Teak and attached it to the top of the staff and bored a hole in the other end of the pipe for the Fast Pin to hold it to my fore way fitting. It came out real nice. I keep the flag attached to the staff and I usually remove the staff and stow it in the cabin when the boat is on the mooring.

DSC01108 I used to attach my yacht ensign to my backstay years ago till I got an idea of making a flag staff out of a short 1" S.S. pipe. I took the pipe to the marine fabricator one day and had him put a bend in it for me. I made a round cap out of a piece of Teak and attached it to the top of the staff and bored a hole in the other end of the pipe for the Fast Pin to hold it to my fore way fitting. It came out real nice. I keep the flag attached to the staff and I usually remove the staff and stow it in the cabin when the boat is on the mooring.

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DSC01042 The curved pipe that the welder made up is about 30" high from the top of the transom and it leans forward in order for the mast crutch pipe to fit in the 90 degree base flange on the sole plate with the pipe straight up and down. The guy did a superb job I think and he only charged me $230. The straight mast crutch pipe stows pulls out of the four way fitting and is stowed down below in one of my settee compartments when not in use.

DSC01042 The curved pipe that the welder made up is about 30" high from the top of the transom and it leans forward in order for the mast crutch pipe to fit in the 90 degree base flange on the sole plate with the pipe straight up and down. The guy did a superb job I think and he only charged me $230. The straight mast crutch pipe stows pulls out of the four way fitting and is stowed down below in one of my settee compartments when not in use.

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DSC00450 This is a mast crutch attachment that I had made up for me years ago by a marine metal fabricator. I made the wooden crutch and later install a small roller in it. The weight of the mast is being supported by the 90 degree 1" base fitting which is screwed to the cockpit sole just in front of the self bailing well.

DSC00450 This is a mast crutch attachment that I had made up for me years ago by a marine metal fabricator. I made the wooden crutch and later install a small roller in it. The weight of the mast is being supported by the 90 degree 1" base fitting which is screwed to the cockpit sole just in front of the self bailing well.

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Nan Sea in slip at Harbortown

Nan Sea in slip at Harbortown

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Nan Sea after detailing

Nan Sea after detailing

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Nancy on Nan Sea

Nancy on Nan Sea

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Me on the boat

Me on the boat

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Ericson 29 - purchased 1/13 - docked Oriental, NC

Ericson 29 - purchased 1/13 - docked Oriental, NC

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Sailing Charlotte Harbor in Guppy - Sanibel 17

Sailing Charlotte Harbor in Guppy - Sanibel 17

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Small door

Small door

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DSC01249 Here's my boom vang. It has about 55' of 3/8" braid line on it and I use it to raise my mast as well as it's intended use which is a boom vang.

DSC01249 Here's my boom vang. It has about 55' of 3/8" braid line on it and I use it to raise my mast as well as it's intended use which is a boom vang.

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SS Gin Pole sketch The Gin Pole. I keep it down below in my quarter birth compartment. It's there whenever I need it.

SS Gin Pole sketch The Gin Pole. I keep it down below in my quarter birth compartment. It's there whenever I need it.

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IMG 0027 With a rear mast crutch mounted on the stern rail you can mount your rudder on the transom before you back down the ramp. All you need to do is center the tiller and tie it off to keep the rudder blade straight. It also helps if you have a rudder blade hold-up pendant line.

IMG 0027 With a rear mast crutch mounted on the stern rail you can mount your rudder on the transom before you back down the ramp. All you need to do is center the tiller and tie it off to keep the rudder blade straight. It also helps if you have a rudder blade hold-up pendant line.

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DSC01268 This is another method of attaching the baby stays to your mast. I tried it for one season and abandoned it for the mast yoke. Some dude wrote and article in Small Craft Advisor on mast raising and this is one of his "brain children." In essence what you see here is a S.S. ring attached to a sail slide in the mast track. The baby stays are tied to the ring and then snapped into the rings of the pivot bridles on both sides of the boat. The Main Halyard is attached to the ring and pulled up, cleated off at the bottom of the mast to tension the baby stays. I really found that setting this up was a big PITA. No hard feelings to the writer of the article but I'll stick with my mast yoke. Don't get me wrong. These are all good ideas. Try them out and if you like them, adopt them. There's always something better and easier though. You just have to come up with the idea.

DSC01268 This is another method of attaching the baby stays to your mast. I tried it for one season and abandoned it for the mast yoke. Some dude wrote and article in Small Craft Advisor on mast raising and this is one of his "brain children." In essence what you see here is a S.S. ring attached to a sail slide in the mast track. The baby stays are tied to the ring and then snapped into the rings of the pivot bridles on both sides of the boat. The Main Halyard is attached to the ring and pulled up, cleated off at the bottom of the mast to tension the baby stays. I really found that setting this up was a big PITA. No hard feelings to the writer of the article but I'll stick with my mast yoke. Don't get me wrong. These are all good ideas. Try them out and if you like them, adopt them. There's always something better and easier though. You just have to come up with the idea.

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DSC01265 Years ago, I didn't have a mast yoke to connect my baby stays to. All I did was tie a "Lineman's Rolling Hitch" to each of my lower stays and it worked OK. That's one hitch that won't slip, not even around an 1/8" stay wire.

DSC01265 Years ago, I didn't have a mast yoke to connect my baby stays to. All I did was tie a "Lineman's Rolling Hitch" to each of my lower stays and it worked OK. That's one hitch that won't slip, not even around an 1/8" stay wire.

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DSC00447 This gadget is indispensable on my boat. It's called a Johnson Handy-Lock. It's like a backstay adjuster. I don't use it for that. I only use it to throw slack into my fore stay to remove my furler when I want to lower my mast. One of the reasons why I had this installed was to rid my boat of the end of boom to the backstay sheeting by mounting a traveler in front of my companionway. It's important to leave the open turnbuckle on the backstay just above the HL so that the backstay can be removed from the mast head. The turn buckle also provides some extra adjustment if needed. These Handy-Locks are pricey but you may be able to buy a used one like I did, or buy a newer different adjustable lever type back stay adjuster similar to what is used on the Mac boats. This particular HR has a lever that you need to turn. They make one that works a little different than this one for cheaper money. I think that this HL would work on an O'Day 22 but I'm not sure. I never need to mess with my side stay turnbuckles when I want to loosen my forestay to drop my mast and this is the beauty of this gadget. It does it all.

DSC00447 This gadget is indispensable on my boat. It's called a Johnson Handy-Lock. It's like a backstay adjuster. I don't use it for that. I only use it to throw slack into my fore stay to remove my furler when I want to lower my mast. One of the reasons why I had this installed was to rid my boat of the end of boom to the backstay sheeting by mounting a traveler in front of my companionway. It's important to leave the open turnbuckle on the backstay just above the HL so that the backstay can be removed from the mast head. The turn buckle also provides some extra adjustment if needed. These Handy-Locks are pricey but you may be able to buy a used one like I did, or buy a newer different adjustable lever type back stay adjuster similar to what is used on the Mac boats. This particular HR has a lever that you need to turn. They make one that works a little different than this one for cheaper money. I think that this HL would work on an O'Day 22 but I'm not sure. I never need to mess with my side stay turnbuckles when I want to loosen my forestay to drop my mast and this is the beauty of this gadget. It does it all.

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DSC00445 Here's a good shot of my Port pivot bridle. You can't see it in the picture but the rope on the left is shorter than the the rope of the right. I had to keep remembering that the short rope on each bridle faces toward the bow. Once you install the pad eyes on the deck, there is no way to get your bridles even so that the rings come right with the pivot point of the mast. You really need to get your bridles made up first and get them even with the rings centered and at the right height, then you can mount the pad eyes. In theory, if you were to stand perpendicular to the mast with a plumb bob and try to mark the deck with the line going through the pivot point of the tabernacle, whatever measure you come up with from the shackle on the chainplate toggle should be the same measurement from that point on the deck to the pad eye. The centerline on my deck is 6" and my pad eye is mounted approximately 12" from my chainplate.

DSC00445 Here's a good shot of my Port pivot bridle. You can't see it in the picture but the rope on the left is shorter than the the rope of the right. I had to keep remembering that the short rope on each bridle faces toward the bow. Once you install the pad eyes on the deck, there is no way to get your bridles even so that the rings come right with the pivot point of the mast. You really need to get your bridles made up first and get them even with the rings centered and at the right height, then you can mount the pad eyes. In theory, if you were to stand perpendicular to the mast with a plumb bob and try to mark the deck with the line going through the pivot point of the tabernacle, whatever measure you come up with from the shackle on the chainplate toggle should be the same measurement from that point on the deck to the pad eye. The centerline on my deck is 6" and my pad eye is mounted approximately 12" from my chainplate.

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DSC00454 I needed to be able to stow my Gin Pole on board my boat so I got fancy and built it so it can come apart in two equal sections. Back in 2005 they were digging up my street and installing city sewage. You can see a construction device in the background which is used to keep a hole from caving in on the workers. There's my old GMC pickup. I got over 200,000 miles on it before I decided to trade it in for a newer one.

DSC00454 I needed to be able to stow my Gin Pole on board my boat so I got fancy and built it so it can come apart in two equal sections. Back in 2005 they were digging up my street and installing city sewage. You can see a construction device in the background which is used to keep a hole from caving in on the workers. There's my old GMC pickup. I got over 200,000 miles on it before I decided to trade it in for a newer one.

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DSC00434 Here's a pic of my old Gin Pole. Anyone can make one of these. It doesn't have to come apart and you don't need to use stainless steel hardware. The Gin pole provides the angle needed to raise your mast by using the Jib halyard and a boom vang or mainsheet blocks. You could also mount a small boat winch on the Gin pole and use that to pull your mast up. I have the yoke tied to the mast near the goose neck fitting and the end of my Gin Pole is about 1" to 2" from my forestay when the mast is up. If the Gin Pole is too short, the boom vang will have a tendency to pull the yoke out of the mast once the mast is up. If you set the Gin Pole too low on the mast, the Gin Pole will be too long and you'll have trouble reaching the end of the pole to snap your bridles in when the mast is laying horizontal and ready to be raised. For this reason I chose to set my Gin Pole so that the yoke is near the goose neck fitting. Note how close the blocks of the boom vang are in this picture. Before I inverted the line locking cam on the pulling block, I used to extend the boom with a wire tail piece that cam off my back stay that was connected to that triangular plate. By inverting the cam on the block, I was able to do away with the tail piece and be able to connect the block to a shackle on my bow stem chainplate. This gave me more space for my blocks. The is another reason why the Gin Pole needs to be set near the goose neck fitting. If you decide to use a boat winch to pull your mast up, you could mount the Gin Pole lower but the lower the Gin Pole on the mast, the longer it has to be.

DSC00434 Here's a pic of my old Gin Pole. Anyone can make one of these. It doesn't have to come apart and you don't need to use stainless steel hardware. The Gin pole provides the angle needed to raise your mast by using the Jib halyard and a boom vang or mainsheet blocks. You could also mount a small boat winch on the Gin pole and use that to pull your mast up. I have the yoke tied to the mast near the goose neck fitting and the end of my Gin Pole is about 1" to 2" from my forestay when the mast is up. If the Gin Pole is too short, the boom vang will have a tendency to pull the yoke out of the mast once the mast is up. If you set the Gin Pole too low on the mast, the Gin Pole will be too long and you'll have trouble reaching the end of the pole to snap your bridles in when the mast is laying horizontal and ready to be raised. For this reason I chose to set my Gin Pole so that the yoke is near the goose neck fitting. Note how close the blocks of the boom vang are in this picture. Before I inverted the line locking cam on the pulling block, I used to extend the boom with a wire tail piece that cam off my back stay that was connected to that triangular plate. By inverting the cam on the block, I was able to do away with the tail piece and be able to connect the block to a shackle on my bow stem chainplate. This gave me more space for my blocks. The is another reason why the Gin Pole needs to be set near the goose neck fitting. If you decide to use a boat winch to pull your mast up, you could mount the Gin Pole lower but the lower the Gin Pole on the mast, the longer it has to be.

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