New O'Day 25 owner

[JRT]

For these old boats I would not trust the deck structure to support the load. I worked for Bath Iron Works Shipyard and I can tell you the ships do grow and expand with temperature changes, so some flex in the chain plates is more then expected. Also the deck really isn't the right load path to the keel either as the boat is currently designed. In addition the hull doesn't have the right structure designed into it either after I looked at it a bit closer. She is a tough heavy boat, but I think maintaining the chain plates and bulkheads is far easier and safer then trying something out that hasn't been proven on a 40+ year old hull.

 

[JRT]

So last time out with mild wind I had more time to really look at the sails. I noticed the foot of the main seems to be pulling up in the middle. I tighten the outhaul line and it helped some. I noticed the rope in the foot of the main seems to be bowing out of the boom in the middle. I've never removed the main, is there something I should be doing or is it just bagged out? I have a second main, the bag says race main, maybe it is time to use that one to get a flat sail.

 

[JRT]

Toe Rail Removal Help

So I have the Bed-it tape and plan to attack the removal and rebedding of the toe rails on Friday prior to a Saturday planned sail. I really don't know how to get the plugs out, I assume just dig our with knife / flat head screw driver. I also assume they are fasten down with self tapping SS Screws. Any hints or tricks, I'd like to try and bang this out in a few hours for all 6 if possible.

 

[LeeandRick]

I'm guessing teak toe rails. I've seen a few different methods on the internet. Most involve drilling the center of the bung and prying them out. The issue I've had is in the process the edge of the hole is damaged occasionally. I would suggest slowing down and cleaning and varnishing while the toe rail is off.

 

[JRT]

Thanks, I am considering that too. I'm not sure they really help for our sailing routine anyway and it would be nice to start making them look nice too.

 

[Jackdaw]

For these old boats I would not trust the deck structure to support the load. I worked for Bath Iron Works Shipyard and I can tell you the ships do grow and expand with temperature changes, so some flex in the chain plates is more then expected. Also the deck really isn't the right load path to the keel either as the boat is currently designed. In addition the hull doesn't have the right structure designed into it either after I looked at it a bit closer. She is a tough heavy boat, but I think maintaining the chain plates and bulkheads is far easier and safer then trying something out that hasn't been proven on a 40+ year old hull.

That's not the reason. The reason is due to manufacturing/built tolerances, and the (in)ability to create equal tension both above the deck (easy) and below it (hard). Its easy above because the the rigging turnbuckles. Hard below because the plate is bolted, fixed to the bulkhead.

The exact thing @Windtherapy suggests is done on boats where the lower chain-plate connection is a SS tie-rod to the hull, with an in-line turnbuckle. Then you can create matching tension and the deck does not factor.

 

[kloudie1]

LeeandRick.. usually ya can get the bungs out by drilling a small hole in the center of the bung then screwing a wood screw into that hole.. the screw will bottom out on the head of the covered screw and continued torque on the screw will jack the bung out. The jacking screw needs to be about 3/4" long to get down to where it bottoms out on the internal screw.

 

[JRT]

LeeandRick.. usually ya can get the bungs out by drilling a small hole in the center of the bung then screwing a wood screw into that hole.. the screw will bottom out on the head of the covered screw and continued torque on the screw will jack the bung out. The jacking screw needs to be about 3/4" long to get down to where it bottoms out on the internal screw.

Wow, this sounds perfect and faster to me!

 

[LeeandRick]

LeeandRick.. usually ya can get the bungs out by drilling a small hole in the center of the bung then screwing a wood screw into that hole.. the screw will bottom out on the head of the covered screw and continued torque on the screw will jack the bung out. The jacking screw needs to be about 3/4" long to get down to where it bottoms out on the internal screw.

Thanks Claude I left that description out in hopes John would search around and find a way to use that procedure and not breakout the edge around the bung like I do. Maybe you guys on Pontchartrain with humidity don't have this problem or maybe my boats are just so old and the wood is so dry. I've never tried to heat the bung and release the glue.

Speaking of humidity we are at 5% right now. John and You can probably add 90% to that number. Since moving off the Gulf Coast 34 years ago I sure miss the humidity .

 

[JRT]

So spent the day on the boat doing some work and decided to put the main up and try the single line reefing setup. Seems to work ok, but the luft atthe clew is kind of stuck up because of the sail slides stack together. I assume this is ok as long as the reefing line is pulled down tight.

 

[LeeandRick]

On most boats you have to pull any slug below the reef cringle (grommet) out of the track to get it to pull down tight.

 

[Ward H]

On my 25, the slugs stay in the track and the reef cringle is pulled down to the top of the stack of slugs. No problem.
The attached photo shows how it looks but the sail shape isn't real good due to other reasons.
First photo was the wrong one. Here is the photo showing the main reefed.

 

[JRT]

Thanks Ward, my slip neighbor thought it was wrong and wanted me to open the slug gate and take them out. That seemed like a lot of work.

 

[JRT]

Awesome day today, did my first heave to for lunch and then again gorkids to swim around the boat. I decided also to take over primary sailing and let my wife relax. Works pretty good and I did tacking by myself in the cockpit which worked a lot better.

 

[JRT]

 

[LeeandRick]

This early in June I'll bet the water is still too cold for me. I do remember water skiing in Guntersville in May when I was their age. You should add a cunningham to the sail to help out the shape. Looks like they enjoy the boat.

 

[JRT]

Yup, I was having issues with the luft above the tack. Basicly my reefing line was hanging it up from yesterday. I'll eventually get it all together someday!

 

[Ward H]

John, in your sailing photos are you in mid tack or sailing? It looks like you are sailing. If so, you should release the windward jib sheet, let the jib cross over to the leeward side and adjust with the leeward jib sheet.

For a cunningham, I tapped and threaded for a machine screw to hold the boom gooseneck stationary. Then I used that horn cleat for the cunningham. The sliding track for the boom had to much resistance to slide up a bit when I was raising the main, which was needed to pull it down to tighten the luff.
One more tip. I would never trust a stopper knot to keep from losing the CB pendant. I alway cleat it off after letting the board down. The stopper know is secondary.

Sounds like you are having a blast.

 

[JRT]

No that was my heave to position for the sails. It seemed to work pretty good, probably need more practice.

Great idea on fixing the the boom, will be doing that change for sure. So what is the purpose of a sliding boom anayway?

So I think the CB pendant line was cut short. If I cleat it off, it will be all the way up. The good news is it swings up and down freely now with no issues so far. I'll keep an eye on it for sure, thanks.

 

[LeeandRick]

.
So what is the purpose of a sliding boom anayway?

It allows for easier luff tensioning because you are using gravity in your favor, weight of sail, to get effective luff tension. With a fixed gooseneck a winch would be required for proper tension to overcome the weight of the sail. Some people with fixed goosenecks hoist and use the cunningham cringle for luff tension.

When you hoist your sail release the downhaul, hoist to a predetermined point cleat the halyard and tension the luff with the downhaul. Then use the cunningham for quick fine trim of the draft position.