Then again, I don't have a lot of experience on boats with loose foot sails. Most boats I've sailed have had the foot of the sail attached to the boom for the full length of the foot. Perhaps with a loose foot sail, your method might be more correct. I don't know.
Hunter 170...Anything to beware of?
- Thread starter JimInPB
- Start date
https://www.quantumsails.com/en/resources-and-expertise/articles/a-quick-guide-to-reefing
You nailed it with the loosefoot part.
Dont give me credit for this stuff. I just google it like everyone else
You nailed it with the loosefoot part.
Dont give me credit for this stuff. I just google it like everyone else
She said that she will be back. I may opt for the 212, rather than the 170 next time. With nearly 4 times the displacement & only about 1/3 more sail area, the 212 is a bit more stable.
The whole story is actually a bit funny. We were fishing at the time. She had a fish on when she went overboard. When I did the U turn to pick her up, I found her floating in her life jacket, still fighting the fish. I had thought that for sure the rod & reel would be lost, but all the equipment came back into the boat & we even got the fish to the docks. She's a real trooper. She's one in a million.
The whole story is actually a bit funny. We were fishing at the time. She had a fish on when she went overboard. When I did the U turn to pick her up, I found her floating in her life jacket, still fighting the fish. I had thought that for sure the rod & reel would be lost, but all the equipment came back into the boat & we even got the fish to the docks. She's a real trooper. She's one in a million.
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The motor mount repair, parts 1 & 2 are now posted.
https://hunter.sailboatowners.com/mods.php?task=article&mid=11&aid=100114&mn=170
https://hunter.sailboatowners.com/mods.php?task=article&mid=11&aid=100115&mn=170
https://hunter.sailboatowners.com/mods.php?task=article&mid=11&aid=100114&mn=170
https://hunter.sailboatowners.com/mods.php?task=article&mid=11&aid=100115&mn=170
I would have loved to seen a picture of her still fighting that fish with the fishing pole after being thrown overboard. As for a loose foot main, all in the learning.
In the future use Gorilla Glue vs. 5200 securing the ACP to the foam. Not sure if you went back with a wood lamininate or not. If wood, I drenched every piece with resin and harderner that was thinned as another layer of coating so water would not penetrate.
In the future use Gorilla Glue vs. 5200 securing the ACP to the foam. Not sure if you went back with a wood lamininate or not. If wood, I drenched every piece with resin and harderner that was thinned as another layer of coating so water would not penetrate.
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Unfortunately, I was single handing that boat for the first time & I was in a semi-fresh breeze, off shore. That left me focused on figuring out how to get my MOB back in the boat. I really wasn't thinking about reaching for a cell phone to snap a picture at the time. The only snap shot I got was one of her back at the docks, sitting on the back of the boat, wearing an inflated Spinlock, with a pole in one hand & a fish in the other.
One interesting side note: The Spinlock vest had developed a slow leak from being worn regularly for several years without being inflated & inspected periodically as the manufacturer's instructions specify. She had to keep blowing it up every now & then to prevent deflation. Fortunately, the crotch straps did work correctly, so she did not have an Incredible Urge - 2013 Islands Race type failure. The small leak developed at a crease, where the bladder material was folded to fit it inside the shell.
I didn't put any wood back in my 170 when I fixed the mount. It was 2 layers of glass mat on the bottom, then foam, shot in & cut to shape, then topped off with a thick plate made from alternating layers of glass mat & roving. It's pretty darn solid. When I horse it around, the whole boat & trailer moves. The motor mount does not move. I'm pretty sure that the current mounting system is significantly stronger than the original mount was when the boat was new.
Thanks for the Gorilla Glue recommendation. I may try that in the future if I see further delamination. What do you use to thin the resin before soaking the wood?
One interesting side note: The Spinlock vest had developed a slow leak from being worn regularly for several years without being inflated & inspected periodically as the manufacturer's instructions specify. She had to keep blowing it up every now & then to prevent deflation. Fortunately, the crotch straps did work correctly, so she did not have an Incredible Urge - 2013 Islands Race type failure. The small leak developed at a crease, where the bladder material was folded to fit it inside the shell.
I didn't put any wood back in my 170 when I fixed the mount. It was 2 layers of glass mat on the bottom, then foam, shot in & cut to shape, then topped off with a thick plate made from alternating layers of glass mat & roving. It's pretty darn solid. When I horse it around, the whole boat & trailer moves. The motor mount does not move. I'm pretty sure that the current mounting system is significantly stronger than the original mount was when the boat was new.
Thanks for the Gorilla Glue recommendation. I may try that in the future if I see further delamination. What do you use to thin the resin before soaking the wood?
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That repair is epic. Looks like you could also use that bar for a tiller tamer support.
My son noticed some deck flexing on portside along the grip tape. Looks like ill be doing something similar to firm that up.
No plexus?
I refilled some rudder mount holes with marinetex and its holding up very well. Epoxy seems safe.
One interesting issue i have with those plastic mounts is i cant get a good grip on the clamps. When i turn the prop 90 degrees the motor tries to free itself from the mount.
My son noticed some deck flexing on portside along the grip tape. Looks like ill be doing something similar to firm that up.
No plexus?
I refilled some rudder mount holes with marinetex and its holding up very well. Epoxy seems safe.
One interesting issue i have with those plastic mounts is i cant get a good grip on the clamps. When i turn the prop 90 degrees the motor tries to free itself from the mount.
Right now, I'm just stretching some 1/4" shock cord between the two stern cleats & wrapping it around the tiller when needed. I don't think that I'm going to put a real tiller tamer on it.
I had a bit of the deck flex thing on my 212. I drilled a couple of small holes, blew dry air through them for a few days, then squirted in 5200 & weighted the skin down while the "glue" dried. That was a few months before Irma came to visit. So far, all looks good with that little repair.
I agree about the plastic on the motor mount being a little too slick for comfort. If you look closely at the picture of my finished mount, you might be able to see the pocket that I milled into the plastic. The way it is now, the motor can only slide sideways about 1/4" before it hits a hard stop. In order for that motor to come off, a piece of HDPE needs to actually break or the mounting clamps on the motor need to loosen by more than a full revolution. I still use a safety rope though. I'm a belt+suspenders kind of guy when it comes to preventing motor loss. I've rebuilt enough salt logged outboards for one lifetime.
I had a bit of the deck flex thing on my 212. I drilled a couple of small holes, blew dry air through them for a few days, then squirted in 5200 & weighted the skin down while the "glue" dried. That was a few months before Irma came to visit. So far, all looks good with that little repair.
I agree about the plastic on the motor mount being a little too slick for comfort. If you look closely at the picture of my finished mount, you might be able to see the pocket that I milled into the plastic. The way it is now, the motor can only slide sideways about 1/4" before it hits a hard stop. In order for that motor to come off, a piece of HDPE needs to actually break or the mounting clamps on the motor need to loosen by more than a full revolution. I still use a safety rope though. I'm a belt+suspenders kind of guy when it comes to preventing motor loss. I've rebuilt enough salt logged outboards for one lifetime.
Yeah, thats the ticket, cut a seat for the clamp. Liking the leash idea. It came free once on me and once on my son as he attached it and was docking pilot. Thing turns on ya like a buddy bitten by a zombie beserker.
Told my son id rathet tbe clamp break from overtighting while its sitting on a trailer than lose tbe motor while fighting wind next to a million dollar catamaran.
Told my son id rathet tbe clamp break from overtighting while its sitting on a trailer than lose tbe motor while fighting wind next to a million dollar catamaran.
The close-up picture below shows the pocket that I milled into my motor mount.
You can see the leash that I use in the last photo in the part 2 of my repair document. It's just a piece of 1/4" 3-strand nylon line. It only takes a minute to put it on.
You can see the leash that I use in the last photo in the part 2 of my repair document. It's just a piece of 1/4" 3-strand nylon line. It only takes a minute to put it on.
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I might try that milling idea. The block cost $115 so its a measure twice, cut once deal. Then buy a new one if i get a gas engine with a different mount.
With my luck the motor would free itself, then while still tethered start chewing on the rudder as it races side to side on power level 5. I gotta make choice, catch the motor or calmly loosen tbe red twist knob to cut tbe power.
With my luck the motor would free itself, then while still tethered start chewing on the rudder as it races side to side on power level 5. I gotta make choice, catch the motor or calmly loosen tbe red twist knob to cut tbe power.
I milled my pocket a little tall & a little wide. The pocket has room to swap between several different motors. It will fit a Honda 2.3, an Evenrude (Tohatsu) 3.5 & a Minn Kota trolling motor. It will probably fit most other motors, that are an appropriate size for the boat, with no other changes.
I should be able to make another one of those blocks from scratch for you, if I have enough scrap material of the right thickness kicking around in the shop. Please let me know if your motor mount looks like mine or not.
I should be able to make another one of those blocks from scratch for you, if I have enough scrap material of the right thickness kicking around in the shop. Please let me know if your motor mount looks like mine or not.
The plastic plates on mine are each 3/4" thick. They are 6-1/8" wide by 6-1/8" high. The taper starts 2-1/8" down from the top. The bottom is 4" wide. For the pocket, you can figure 2" high by 5-1/4" wide by 1/8" deep, starting 1/2" down from the top edge.
Someone mentioned their Hunter 170 being top heavy - and prone to capsize when at the dock in bad weather. Just wanted to share my experience (and lessons learned) in that situation. I was actually caught on on a lake in a sudden thunderstorm. I sailed to a small island and anchored on the lee shore with my Hunter 170 (Joycee) blowing downwind. I lowered and furled the mainsail (IMPROPERLY! by rolling the head of the sail downward to the foot), tied it to the boom (which was still lifted up with the boom/topping lift line), left the keel down but cleated the rudder up. Locked the boom downward by hauling and cleating the mainsheet. I had a turtle ("Hobie Bob" (weight about 4-5 pounds) preventer atop the mast. In the 10-15 minute storm we had 30-35MPH gusts and very heavy rain. Joycee went over onto her side after 5-10 minutes... but did not turtle. I swam out and righted her and discovered that the mainsail was HOLDING a few gallons (about 8 pounds per gallon) of rainwater due to the way I "furled" the mainsail. I now carefully flake the mainsail (I've added a simple lazy jack system) - AND I lower the aft end of the boom by extending the topping lift line (to it's limit) by about 12" to minimize retained rainwater weight. Might be a good idea to leave some play in the mainsheet too so that water slings/flings out of the aft end of the main sail as the boat rocks to port/starboard.
I've not be caught in a storm like that again but I think that she'd do a lot better now.
I've not be caught in a storm like that again but I think that she'd do a lot better now.
Further evidence that the H170 is a fair weather and top heavy unstable boat that is unlikely to fare well on its own at anchor or dock in a storm. Thanks for sharing, and glad to hear you came through with a good story.
PS - It’s a good performer though.
PS - It’s a good performer though.
Thats not entirely honest. The 170 is a centerboard dinghy. Its a lightning without hiking straps.
Some older 170's dont even have the wieghted centerboard. The list of sailing dinghy's one can abandon on a mooring are pretty slim. The flying scott and lightnings should have the mainsail covered and the whole boat covered.
If the 170 has the wieghted centerbord down and the mainsail in the cover it should be fine. Add the mast float and the worst that can happen is boat rests on its side until someone lifts the mast float 2-3 feet up.
Bam, all better and self draining to boot. Its all about preparation and planning.
If you can list 5 planing dingies that can be left on a mooring that dont flip or sink that would be awesome. Then we could learn how to modify the 170 to match specs.
A 2 liter soda bottle filled with 2 inches of concrete would be a just fine after any storm if left on a mooring. Keelboats are less reliable, centerboard dinghys, the worst.
Some older 170's dont even have the wieghted centerboard. The list of sailing dinghy's one can abandon on a mooring are pretty slim. The flying scott and lightnings should have the mainsail covered and the whole boat covered.
If the 170 has the wieghted centerbord down and the mainsail in the cover it should be fine. Add the mast float and the worst that can happen is boat rests on its side until someone lifts the mast float 2-3 feet up.
Bam, all better and self draining to boot. Its all about preparation and planning.
If you can list 5 planing dingies that can be left on a mooring that dont flip or sink that would be awesome. Then we could learn how to modify the 170 to match specs.
A 2 liter soda bottle filled with 2 inches of concrete would be a just fine after any storm if left on a mooring. Keelboats are less reliable, centerboard dinghys, the worst.
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Who anchors a H170??? ;^)
But like Bobby said, any centerboard boat that is left on a mooring it can possibly blow over in a squall. These boat rely on human mass for righting moment.
I've left my 170 at anchor in moderately snotty conditions with no problems. Both the jib & main were furled. The canvas cover on the bow probably had about 30# of gear under it. A Group 27 battery was in a box mounted just forward of the stern. A trolling motor was hanging on the motor mount. The board was probably about 1/2 way down due to shallow water. I don't have a mast head float nor noodles in the mast. I ran a line from the stern cleats up around the end of the boom to stop it from swaying.
Under sail, she is a bit tender, but I have not had trouble keeping her right side up. Once she gets to where the mast is about 10 degrees shy of horizontal, she stops trying to heal more (unless someone grabs the boom to steady themselves). She's not a flip happy little boat, like a Sun Fish or a Laser. If the crew doesn't make mistakes, she should not go over. Failing to reef in 20 knots would count as making a mistake though. The sail area to displacement ratio on that boat is something like 20:1. When she is reefed in 20 knots, she's a little rocket ship on a reach. It's a fun little boat in the hands of someone who knows how to work a sheet & a tiller in unison.
Under sail, she is a bit tender, but I have not had trouble keeping her right side up. Once she gets to where the mast is about 10 degrees shy of horizontal, she stops trying to heal more (unless someone grabs the boom to steady themselves). She's not a flip happy little boat, like a Sun Fish or a Laser. If the crew doesn't make mistakes, she should not go over. Failing to reef in 20 knots would count as making a mistake though. The sail area to displacement ratio on that boat is something like 20:1. When she is reefed in 20 knots, she's a little rocket ship on a reach. It's a fun little boat in the hands of someone who knows how to work a sheet & a tiller in unison.
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