And so it begins

[SailingCal21]

Notice anything different? To do: Handrails, Water system, Batteries, Paint bottom, Lifelines, Fore and aft stays, Paint or reanodize mast and boom. Call for truck, go sailing. Just short of 2 years and there she is. Damn pretty ain't she? :dance: :wow:

Fantastic! She looks great.

 

[Panta Rei]

Look great.
Did the boat have an emblem outboard to the companion way? Are you thinking replacing it?
Not a big need for it , the boat looks great without it. I have so left over RTV urethane rubber molding compound. If some one had one we could make a mold from it.

 

[25yearslater]

First a round of applause for all my Oday owner friends who have been my constant companions on this journey. You have kept me goin through the times when I began to doubt my own resolve. I can't thank you enough. With a bunch of folks providing encouragement, advise and humor along the way 2 years doesn't seem that long now. To answer a few questions, jibes, the spinnaker and pole were left at the marina since I had no desire to use one. I will be replacing it with an asymetric in the near future. The original owner thought he might be the second coming of Dennis Conner or something as he had installed every gadget and gilhickey that might get this boat to move a wee bit faster. Who needs seamanship huh? I will be reverting back to the hanked on headsails for the cloth weights for specific wind speeds. The new main and 100% are here now and the asym and storm jib will be forth coming. I will be having the 150 reworked for hank on for the time being. Now for Todd's question. Seems somebody was saying something about WAXING it. The family got real wide eyed at that thought but has capitulated. Actually I have the emblems all made and ready to go. When those last few details are complete on they go. Sort of a ceremonial finish type of thing. So again thanks everybody and I'll be posting the pictures of the last few details as they occur.

 

[jibes138]

always look forward to your interesting posts 25. Been really fun following your project. I can't wait to see your work on the 37. Now for some discussion on sails. I've managed to build several from Sailrite kits including a cruising chute (asym), storm sails, 130 Jib, etc. I found a 150% headsail too large for most conditions and was having to sail with it partially rolled up more often than not, a situation that ruins the performance of the sail and limits pointing ability. I find a 130% is perfect for most conditions and then in the spring or fall when the winds are a little stronger I switch to my 110%. I don't know the conditions up on lake Ontario so you may be happy with a 150%. You can cut down a jib to a smaller size by removing material from the luff in a very specific way, Sailrite has instructions on how to do this if you are so inclined. Also a cruising chute is a bear to pull in. You usually pull it in when the winds pick up so it is really tough, of course mine is a lot larger than yours will be. Consider a dousing sock. I had my cruising chute explode on me one day, it was very spectacular :>) .

 

[rajhnsn]

Although my congratulations are in concert with others here, didn't we see a considerable list of things yet to be done. Your track record proves that you will complete the list but I just wonder if these props are premature. Regarding your sail choices, I agree with Jibes about the 130% depending on the conditions of the area that you are primarily sailing in. When we sail on my previous boat, a Cal 25 on the Deleware River we use a 165% on a regular basis because the often light winds make it difficult to overcome the current. While racing this is a significant issue. The sails on this boat are hanked on and we would not have it any other way because a roller furling would decrease sail area. My O'day 35 has a 130% roller furling head sail and is kept on the Chesapeake Bay. Since we are cruisers with this boat, we very much appreciate the roller furling and since there is little current to overcome, the 130% is more than enough for most conditions. I would not give up a roller furling on a cruising boat ever. I'm considering getting one for my spinikar which currently is doused by a sock.

 

[jibes138]

I'm considering getting one for my spinikar which currently is doused by a sock.

rajhnsn,
I'd be interested in how you rig your spinnaker on your 35, how you connect the tack and how you run the sheets. For the halyard I added the masthead plate with a block and run the halyard forward of the roller furler, I was thinking about running a short cable under the anchor roller for the tack to get it outboard of the bow pulpit. Just curious how you set it up.
For the sheets I made two lines with blocks atttached and I tie the lines to the stern cleats and run the sheets through the blocks then to the primary winches. This works well and I didn't need to add more tracks or winches. Again looking to compare notes. Thanks.

 

[25yearslater]

Todd, help. I seem to recall you had Panta Rei shipped at a cost far less than I had YOT driven across town. I am going to send my mast, boom and spreaders to Sparcraft Spars in, are you ready jibes, North Carolina. There it will be stripped and reanodized and at this point I will probably go with the additional trifle of having it powder coated. The total cost will be around 650.00. If I get lame I might just get the anodizing at 166.00 or the powdercoat at 450.00 Shipping will be the killer. Best thing about it is no time pressure for temperature dependant paints. Not really Raj. Those are just normal springtime chores or quick drill and caulk. No fancy batteries or charging setup so that's as easy as it gets. Batteries from Advance Auto are 86.00 each before core charge refund for the marine dual purpose. They always have silly discounts if ordered online as well. Most of the stuff are nice wintertime projects.

 

[Panta Rei]

Todd, help. I seem to recall you had Panta Rei shipped at a cost far less than I had YOT driven across town. I am going to send my mast, boom and spreaders to Sparcraft Spars in, are you ready jibes, North Carolina. There it will be stripped and reanodized and at this point I will probably go with the additional trifle of having it powder coated. The total cost will be around 650.00. If I get lame I might just get the anodizing at 166.00 or the powdercoat at 450.00 Shipping will be the killer. Best thing about it is no time pressure for temperature dependant paints. Not really Raj. Those are just normal springtime chores or quick drill and caulk. No fancy batteries or charging setup so that's as easy as it gets. Batteries from Advance Auto are 86.00 each before core charge refund for the marine dual purpose. They always have silly discounts if ordered online as well. Most of the stuff are nice wintertime projects.

http://www.uship.com/boats/ This is what I used. It's like ebay for shipping boats. My hauler was on the east coast and had a pickup in Chicago. My load saved him from running empty. My hauler had a trailer that could haul several masts and other long parts right along side of the boat. You in no hurry so I think you will do well.

 

[rajhnsn]

Jibes, my spinnaker is symetrical so I use a traditional method using a pole, sheet and guy. I added a topping lift for the pole but the PO had rigged a spin halyard that goes to the top of the mast. The pole is actually a three part extendable wisker pole which creates a bit of a tangled mess of the harness and release lines that I added this year (not shown in picture from last year). It is dowsed by a sock which works well but adds another level of complication. When my ship comes in, I would like to buy an asymetric and put it on a continous furler off a fixed pole on the bow but I need to invest in air conditioning first. I think I would lose some down wind angle but I would probably use the spinnaker more.

 

[jibes138]

Thanks rajhnsn.
Hey 25 Can you rent a flatbed from like U-haul or something and just drive it down. Just the cost of fuel will be several hundred....probably over 400.00. Then the tolls in Jersey and Maryland will add a hundred or so. As Panta Rei noted the only way to do this economically is to piggy back on other shipments. Maybe some independent eighteen wheeler would take it for some extra cash if going that way.

 

[Panta Rei]

This shipping auction has got a lot of small players into the game. Often driving nothing more than pickup trucks with or w/out trailers. You will be surprised at your options. (both projects)

 

[25yearslater]

Anyhow a quick update. The electric is done. Put one 120V outlet in the galley for the shore power. Not much on this thing that will require juice. Blue wires are nav lights. Yellow are cabin lights. Black from the panel is anchor. Red is power fed to the panel and there is an addition black that is the ground for the illuminated rocker switches. Now at some point a PO put in a West Marine panel buuuut because some real nice guy, who I won't mention Todd, sent me some neat decals the relabeling is a cinch. So with the mast, boom and spreaders heading to Sparcraft Spars in the next few weeks for anodizing and powdercoating at 787.00 which is about 50 bucks more than a self inflicted paint job that I'm not keen on anyway and YOT is done other than cleaning and waxing with batteries and bottom paint in the spring. Then at launch, wrap up the rigging. Next up, well getting it is the first order of business.

 

[jibes138]

If you are really intent on another project you might want to shop around. Just about every boatyard has a few derelicts around. Often people just abandon boats rather than pay the storage fees. Spicer's in Noank Ct use to auction them off periodically. Since that 37 was sailing right up to her demise I'd assume it is in decent shape, so it is probably a good project.

 

[jibes138]

Hey 25 Someone on another thread is having bulkhead problems on a 27. Can you chime in on how they are attached since I know you put in new ones.
Thanks.

 

[25yearslater]

I got him jibes. Something of potential concern there. As to YOT. Bottom sanding underway. I have no idea what in hell the black stuff is that was applied over the gelcoat. Possibly some sort of coal tar epoxy perhaps. I've used this to seal porous industrial coolant tanks. The real disgust came in that it seemed to have been applied with a trowel. The ridges and bumps had to affect the laminar flow across the bottom. Undaunted I'm almost done with this part. One thing I'm doing besides twisting and squirming is to attach my sander to a shop vac with Hepa filter so very little paint is reaching the ground or my lungs. This might be a way to perform some work at even the most eco psycho marinas. The containment of the dust occurs as it is generated. The blow the nose test revealed no noticable paint boogers.

 

[Panta Rei]

I got him jibes. Something of potential concern there. As to YOT. Bottom sanding underway. I have no idea what in hell the black stuff is that was applied over the gelcoat. Possibly some sort of coal tar epoxy perhaps. I've used this to seal porous industrial coolant tanks. The real disgust came in that it seemed to have been applied with a trowel. The ridges and bumps had to affect the laminar flow across the bottom. Undaunted I'm almost done with this part. One thing I'm doing besides twisting and squirming is to attach my sander to a shop vac with Hepa filter so very little paint is reaching the ground or my lungs. This might be a way to perform some work at even the most eco psycho marinas. The containment of the dust occurs as it is generated. The blow the nose test revealed no noticable paint boogers.

My boat had the coal tar treatment as well. It was so tough we could not blast it off with cinder blasting media. Fortunately , it prevented any blisters from forming. It's rough but I will live with it.

 

[rajhnsn]

I found that 3M paint remover worked well when I took my old C-22 down to the glass. Present boat was soda blasted soon after I purchased it. We did find blisters. Any on YOT so far?

 

[jibes138]

it sounds like some brand of barrier coat was applied to your boats. The barrrier coat on mine is a brown color, I think the Interlux brand is the brown. Perhaps another company has the black. If it is epoxy and bonded to the hull it will be like trying to remove a layer of laminate. I wouldn't think blasting would get it off unless something very aggressive. Also those barrier coats are put on in multiple layers like maybe eight or so, they end up being quite thick so sanding it off will be a nightmare also as 25 is experiencing.
If you remove the barrier coat I hope you plan on putting on another one?

Hey 25, my bottom paint is light blue so everytime I do the sanding I end up looking exactly like a smurf.

 

[Peter Brennan]

I am exhausted just reading about all that hard work. Did it myself years and years ago -- down to the gelcoat, barrier coat, Briteside topsided, etc., etc. Sure wish one of you guys could get hold of our old 37 CC and bring her back to life.

 

[25yearslater]

Jibes it is in fact a very dark brown. As some areas are thin it shows as a dark brown. Hey Raj, I've got about 6 little dots that are showing, should be a quick grind with the dremel and fill. All the thin spots will be overcoated with some new West epoxy. I figure since it is coming out smooth and the bottom looks very good other than some stress cracks in the gelcoat I will leave well enough alone. I will grind out the cracks and refill with new epoxy. Looks like the old gal was set on the cradle with too much shimming under her keel. From my poking and probing the cracks stop at the laminate so no harm no foul. Other than that everything looks good for April including the move, marina and the mast will be headed south soon as the hauler has a boat headed that way. I tried twice more to get your boat Peter. I got nothin. If you want to grab it and send it to me. I will put the same care into restoration I did with YOT. I want to bring another back to as close to new as possible. Let me know on that.