34/35 Prop Shaft Strut?
- Thread starter eherlihy
- Start date
I believe that you are correct... When speaking with Rudy, he indicated that IF the screws come out, and IF the holes are drilled in the strut exactly as the holes in the original strut, then I could simply screw in the bolts to reattach the strut. Otherwise, the tank has to come out, and the nuts, which are encased in fiberglass will have to be dug out.
You are correct - there are no bolt holes on the new strut. Rudy indicated that they were drilled when the strut was mounted at the factory, and therefore there is no standard location. My plan is to remove the current strut, insert short screws into the holes, apply paint to the screw heads, position the new strut and thereby transfer the location on the old holes in the hull on the new strut, and finally, drill the holes.
Also, the boat was hauled a week ago, and I was able to compare the new with the old. I believe that there are two fasteners that are holding the OEM strut to the hull, in addition to a generous bed of 5200 (or similar) adhesive. In comparing the new and old strut, I have come to the conclusion that, despite the electrolytic corrosion that took place, the old strut is still mechanically up to the task. There are no cracks or any signs of weakness that I can discern. Also, I am not looking forward to dropping the rudder, and draining and lifting the (full) fuel tank in order to replace the strut. I will
therefore hold onto the strut until I see any sign of weakness, or until I sell the boat (not planned).
I am keeping the new one as a spare (did I not say this?). I was able to source a replacement - although it took some time. I would not bet on being able to source one next year. When (if?) I replace the strut, the tank must either be lifted vertically or removed so that I can have access to the hull under the tank. No need to touch the engine at all. Right now the tank is full (I always fill it before I have the boat hauled), so lifting the tank would be more complex than if it were empty.
I think the tank will have to come out to access the strut bolts - I just removed my tank last weekend, major pain if you don't want to cut fiberglass (I cut the tank). I don't think lifting it will give enough access as there's only about 6 inches of room above the tank.
I could not remove the cutlass bearing on my 30 CB. The collets for the removal tool where either too small and seemed to push the rubber and not the brass sleeve or too big and would not push the sleeve thru. Using a tool that one doesn't need to remove the shaft. So I did the next best thing. I just removed the screws from the strut and cut away the 4200 sealant. It came away and I just slid it off. Now to cut the bearing out, order a new sleeve and re install.
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jssailem
SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
- Oct 22, 2014
- 22,088
Those clean up nicely.
Not sure you needed to gold coat them for Christmas.
Not sure you needed to gold coat them for Christmas.
Beautiful. How hard was it to remove the backing plates inside the hull - I assume that's what they are, mine has a lump of resin/filler over them. I replaced my cutless a couple of years ago with this:
www.defender.com
Morse Marine BLOATER Brass Sleeved Shaft Bearings
Dimensions: 1" ID 1-3/8" OD 4" L, Material: Pollution-Free Naval Brass. Rubber Lined and Water Lubricated, Requires No Seals and No Oil or Grease for Lubrication
@ dmax. Not hard at all. I started with a large Philip's head on a ratchet tool. That loosened two of the four machine screws. The other two needed some talking to with a impact tool. Once loosened I backed them out with a large screw driver. I them pulled a little and with a Stanley knife I removed some or most of the 4200. I came away nicely. Turned it upside down on the shaft and slid it off. The nuts are captured inside. Of course I had already removed the keyway for the prop. I course brushed the strut and then had sanded. My intent was to get the blue ablative paint off. Not bad for a first once over. Now the question........Prop Speed or not? How much will this really help or should I use the $300 elsewhere.
I paint my strut with bottom paint but I use this on the shaft and prop - $7.00 and no barnacles at all: Rust-Oleum Professional 20 oz. Flat Gray Cold Galvanizing Compound Spray-7585838 - The Home Depot
@ Alan 2210. Thanks for the great picture of your finished shaft/strutt/anode set up. My question to you is: Having replaced the cutlass bearing, did you need to realign the shaft, or was the replacement as simple as just replacing and ready for immediate use?
Sorry I missed your post. This was a rather large project. I had to replace the strut, shaft, coupling, and stern tube with all new. A complete realignment was needed. The new strut was just enough different from the old one that the shaft and new coupling did not match up to the transmission flange. Normally just replacing the cutless bearing in an existing strut does not require realignment.