The Official "What Did You Do To Your Mac Today" Thread!
- Thread starter Sock Puppet
- Start date
As I posted before. Mistress's CB fell down and was wedged between the trailer crossbar and the boat ramp, causing me to cut a significant piece off of the CB to unwedge her.
I finally got all the parts in yesterday and replaced the CB today. That was a thankless job! It all came off easy enough, but putting the CB back in the belly of the boat meant that I had to elevate Mistress ~1ft above the trailer and block her with a lot of 4x4's. It took a special 9/16 ratcheting socket wrench to easily access the locking nuts in the hull, and those brackets just did not want to line up with only two hands. ........ Yeah furgitaboutit....there was no way the Admiral was going to climb under the boat, especially since I was laying on the only dolly.
Issues:
1. The new CB has a pre-drilled hole for the uphaul line. Too bad that it's too small. I had to bore the hole out more to pass the pre-swaged wire rope through that hole. The loop of wire rope wasn't the problem as much as the swage itself.
2. The new wire rope ass'y comes pre-assembled with a bracket and a stop. That requires you to pass the wire rope through the sheave under the galley and down from under the galley before attaching to the CB. It seems like it would have been easier to attach to the CB under the boat, then using the old line, pull the new one through.
3. The bolt assembly that secures the wire rope consists of a bolt, 2 ea. regular nuts, and a locking nut. There is no hole to mechanically attach it to the CB. I drilled a hole in the CB and added a 1" washer on the outside, while using 1 less regular nut. IMO- this is a much more secure assembly.
4. There is significant play in the CB. I haven't seen a way to reduce that to keep the CB from moving side to side while in an anchorage.
The upper hole is for the pivot assembly; the lower hole with the notch in the trailing edge is for the uphaul line. The line is passed through the notch into the CB, then the bolt ass'y secures it inside the lower hole.
This shot is of the new bed made from 5/4 decking coated with resin (Thanks for saving me some big bucks Sumner!). This is to make sure a repeat of the CB dropping down doesn't re-occur. You can now see why I painted the CB with dayglo yellow. Mistress is still blocked and the CB hasn't been secured in the full up position in this shot.
All-in-all, it was a learning experience. I also found a hole in the hull, right next to where the CB brackets attach. Since that area is normally flooded when in the water, it wasn't a big problem, but I went ahead and patched it while I was down there.
Sorry about the lousy quality of pictures. I was using my cell phone instead of a dedicated camera.
- James
I finally got all the parts in yesterday and replaced the CB today. That was a thankless job! It all came off easy enough, but putting the CB back in the belly of the boat meant that I had to elevate Mistress ~1ft above the trailer and block her with a lot of 4x4's. It took a special 9/16 ratcheting socket wrench to easily access the locking nuts in the hull, and those brackets just did not want to line up with only two hands. ........ Yeah furgitaboutit....there was no way the Admiral was going to climb under the boat, especially since I was laying on the only dolly.
Issues:
1. The new CB has a pre-drilled hole for the uphaul line. Too bad that it's too small. I had to bore the hole out more to pass the pre-swaged wire rope through that hole. The loop of wire rope wasn't the problem as much as the swage itself.
2. The new wire rope ass'y comes pre-assembled with a bracket and a stop. That requires you to pass the wire rope through the sheave under the galley and down from under the galley before attaching to the CB. It seems like it would have been easier to attach to the CB under the boat, then using the old line, pull the new one through.
3. The bolt assembly that secures the wire rope consists of a bolt, 2 ea. regular nuts, and a locking nut. There is no hole to mechanically attach it to the CB. I drilled a hole in the CB and added a 1" washer on the outside, while using 1 less regular nut. IMO- this is a much more secure assembly.
4. There is significant play in the CB. I haven't seen a way to reduce that to keep the CB from moving side to side while in an anchorage.
The upper hole is for the pivot assembly; the lower hole with the notch in the trailing edge is for the uphaul line. The line is passed through the notch into the CB, then the bolt ass'y secures it inside the lower hole.
This shot is of the new bed made from 5/4 decking coated with resin (Thanks for saving me some big bucks Sumner!). This is to make sure a repeat of the CB dropping down doesn't re-occur. You can now see why I painted the CB with dayglo yellow. Mistress is still blocked and the CB hasn't been secured in the full up position in this shot.
All-in-all, it was a learning experience. I also found a hole in the hull, right next to where the CB brackets attach. Since that area is normally flooded when in the water, it wasn't a big problem, but I went ahead and patched it while I was down there.
Sorry about the lousy quality of pictures. I was using my cell phone instead of a dedicated camera.
- James
lowes sales vinyl flooring that is waterproof and snaps together like the pergo flooring, easy down and up
I finished fairing over the weekend. Then today I got out of work early and figured out a solid foot for my mast brackets. First I jacked up one side of the trailer till I got the boat level, then laid down tape to contain the epoxy. Mixed it with a bit of glass fiber and thickening compound and poured it in. Totally happy with how it turned out:
Looks good, I thought of doing something like that when I filled in my old leaking speed/depth finders but instead I pain stakingly put piece after piece of fiberglass to fill the 1/2" thick holes.
Yesterday I motored out onto the Sea of Cortez, hauled yards, got scared, so then pretty much immediately struck them down.
Motor seemed to be weakly peeing seawater, so when I got back into port I tore into the lower unit to check the impeller.
Darned thing was fine, so I guess there's some salt blockage in the cooling system, but not enough to worry about yet. When I haul out in a day or two I'll give it a freshwater flush.
Motor seemed to be weakly peeing seawater, so when I got back into port I tore into the lower unit to check the impeller.
Darned thing was fine, so I guess there's some salt blockage in the cooling system, but not enough to worry about yet. When I haul out in a day or two I'll give it a freshwater flush.
I have kept a very small inflatable raft up in the Vberth storage area for several years. It stays there all the time and has been handy a few times. I like this setup (except how it performs on the water) since its stored inside the boat in the Vberth and has almost no impact on how the boat sails. Its also relatively low hassle setting up and taking down.
However.. I wanted something that would make a better tender and also that "might" be somewhat fun for two person to use as a kayak and do a little paddling - exploring while on anchor. So I just ordered this two person inflatable kayak https://airkayaks.wordpress.com/201...ge-2-inflatable-kayak-from-advanced-elements/
I somewhat randomly picked this one - read some reviews but this one has a rudder so Im hoping it will track sort of well despite its length and being inflatable. This company has larger inflatables that no doubt work better but this one only weighs 31.5 pounds and the deflated size is 31x18x10 inch. That weight will be important mostly when I have to carry the folded up kayak up to the Vberth - probably on my knees.. and then its still going to feel HEAVY for this old guy LOL. This one is 11 foot 2 inch length and speced for 400 pounds.
If things work out.. I will try it at Catalina Island this summer - use it as my exploring dingy.
However.. I wanted something that would make a better tender and also that "might" be somewhat fun for two person to use as a kayak and do a little paddling - exploring while on anchor. So I just ordered this two person inflatable kayak https://airkayaks.wordpress.com/201...ge-2-inflatable-kayak-from-advanced-elements/
I somewhat randomly picked this one - read some reviews but this one has a rudder so Im hoping it will track sort of well despite its length and being inflatable. This company has larger inflatables that no doubt work better but this one only weighs 31.5 pounds and the deflated size is 31x18x10 inch. That weight will be important mostly when I have to carry the folded up kayak up to the Vberth - probably on my knees.. and then its still going to feel HEAVY for this old guy LOL. This one is 11 foot 2 inch length and speced for 400 pounds.
If things work out.. I will try it at Catalina Island this summer - use it as my exploring dingy.
Looks like a pretty well thought out design Walt. decent price for what it is also. I like the way the seats attach. those of us with bad backs like support. does the paddle come apart for storage and can you feather the two blades? It's a lot easier to paddle a kayak with proper blade angles.
I can't get the link to open but I'll try again later. We used an inflatable kayak for a dinghy the first time we went to Catalina Island. It worked out quite well. We had a lot of fun paddling around all the fancy boats and talking to whomever was onboard.
This link might work? http://www.airkayaks.com/advanced-elements-island-voyage-2-inflatable-kayak-ae3023/
What I bought (in the link) does not come with either paddles or a pump but I already have a bunch of kayak paddles that are two piece that have the 90 degree adjustment (is this what you mean?). This kayak takes 2 PSI and I think my manual pump will go that high. I have a 12 volt "mattress" pump on the boat that I use to blow the ballast and it will be used to get most of the air in the kayak. The 12 volt pump only goes a little over 1 psi, the manual pump will get the final pressure (at least.. that is what I think will happen..).
What I bought (in the link) does not come with either paddles or a pump but I already have a bunch of kayak paddles that are two piece that have the 90 degree adjustment (is this what you mean?). This kayak takes 2 PSI and I think my manual pump will go that high. I have a 12 volt "mattress" pump on the boat that I use to blow the ballast and it will be used to get most of the air in the kayak. The 12 volt pump only goes a little over 1 psi, the manual pump will get the final pressure (at least.. that is what I think will happen..).
Paint your center board with bottom paint. I painted the board and tunnel with 4 coats each. Too much paint, took the board back down and sanded almost all off the top, head of the board. It drops easy now and no slop.
I'm so close to finishing this project! I skipped a few photos, but here it is with the second coat of Interlux Pre-Kote applied and all the mounting holes drilled (after drilling them out big, filling with epoxy and re-drilling to appropriate size). I also installed a Beckson inspection plate into one of those "channels" in the cabin top down below so I could use nuts/bolts to mount my new hardware instead of the original screws.
One more coat of primer with a non-skid additive, mount my hardware and this project is done for the season. My plan is to get through this summer with just the ugly primer. Then, next winter; strip all the hardware, fix all the little stress cracks and repaint the entire topsides.
One more coat of primer with a non-skid additive, mount my hardware and this project is done for the season. My plan is to get through this summer with just the ugly primer. Then, next winter; strip all the hardware, fix all the little stress cracks and repaint the entire topsides.
Ok, Willsnow is making me look bad, but I did get a little project done. You can see the line wranglers I added (ignore the hastily applied, just seal the d*mn hole epoxy job next to it). One for the furling line and one for the dagger board line. Regrets on the absence of true nautical terms.
