I remember getting a box just like that almost two years ago. :dance:
TAX REFUND? We haven't even filed our taxes yet!:cussing:
Don
TAX REFUND? We haven't even filed our taxes yet!:cussing:
Don
Restoration of 1981 C-22 swing keel #10580
- Thread starter CloudDiver
- Start date
I HATE unboxing videos...
When searching for reviews of products I often come across 'unboxing' videos on YouTube. Dear Lord are they some of the STUPIEST things I have ever seen! Most of them tell you NOTHING about the product in the box, at most you just get a review of how it is packaged (which could be useful info for sensitive things, but that is about it). Usually, I just think 'unboxing videos' are just silly people who get overly excited about finally receiving something they've been waiting for...
With that said.... here is a pic of my new Tohatsu 6HP SailPro in the box!
When searching for reviews of products I often come across 'unboxing' videos on YouTube. Dear Lord are they some of the STUPIEST things I have ever seen! Most of them tell you NOTHING about the product in the box, at most you just get a review of how it is packaged (which could be useful info for sensitive things, but that is about it). Usually, I just think 'unboxing videos' are just silly people who get overly excited about finally receiving something they've been waiting for...
With that said.... here is a pic of my new Tohatsu 6HP SailPro in the box!
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Someone had asked about pics of where I place my Keel spacers so here it is, posted below. This location is not exactly where the CD instructions indicated, but it is very close and I wanted to be sure the starboard spacer was well away from the keel bolt arc. Long and short of this that I will still need to grind these off, they make the keel too wide at the top to seat in the pocket. Interesting note, even if I had placed them in CD recommended spot it would have the same effect.
With all the build up of epoxy filler and fairing compound the top portion of my keel is just too thick by about .25 inch. I have made some progress with my keel 'blank' foam model and I will continue to shape it until I get the correct fit and then transfer those dimensions to the real keel before painting. I may not need to order a new set of spacers at all, but if I do they will be in a different place. More on this later.
With all the build up of epoxy filler and fairing compound the top portion of my keel is just too thick by about .25 inch. I have made some progress with my keel 'blank' foam model and I will continue to shape it until I get the correct fit and then transfer those dimensions to the real keel before painting. I may not need to order a new set of spacers at all, but if I do they will be in a different place. More on this later.
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Here is the hull after filling all the blister pockets that I ground out. I had ground the blisters with a rounded end carbide burr before I sanded off the gelcoat, so the depressions were actually pretty shallow.
I used Interlux Watertite epoxy filler. The two parts mix 1 to 1 so it is pretty easy to mix up small batches and not have waste, also the pot life is about 20 minutes. I will say though that it is not nearly as easy to sand as epoxy with WEST fairing filler, and actually colloidal silica was just as easy to sand (I had used some of that to fill a few holes when I had it left over from other tasks).
The fun part was that I filled the holes and sanded them fair, then found about a dozen that I missed. So I filled them too and sanded later and found another dozen holes I missed. After I sanded those I still kept finding 3 to 6 little holes I missed or others that needed to be fixed. This went on for basically about 5 rounds of filling, fairing, and finding the ones I missed. Now, after a week I think I am finally done!
I used Interlux Watertite epoxy filler. The two parts mix 1 to 1 so it is pretty easy to mix up small batches and not have waste, also the pot life is about 20 minutes. I will say though that it is not nearly as easy to sand as epoxy with WEST fairing filler, and actually colloidal silica was just as easy to sand (I had used some of that to fill a few holes when I had it left over from other tasks).
The fun part was that I filled the holes and sanded them fair, then found about a dozen that I missed. So I filled them too and sanded later and found another dozen holes I missed. After I sanded those I still kept finding 3 to 6 little holes I missed or others that needed to be fixed. This went on for basically about 5 rounds of filling, fairing, and finding the ones I missed. Now, after a week I think I am finally done!
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Finalizing the blister repair
Yesterday I got home from work and found that my order of 8.9 oz fiberglass cloth had arrived from US Composites. It was pretty cheap at 7.60 a yard, so I got 15 yards at 50 inches wide was $110. This will cover each half of the hull in one shot with a single seam up the middle. There will be plenty of trimmed off cloth that will come in handy for other repairs.
After much online shopping I found US Composites to be the best prices and selection; http://www.shopmaninc.com/index.html
Yesterday I got home from work and found that my order of 8.9 oz fiberglass cloth had arrived from US Composites. It was pretty cheap at 7.60 a yard, so I got 15 yards at 50 inches wide was $110. This will cover each half of the hull in one shot with a single seam up the middle. There will be plenty of trimmed off cloth that will come in handy for other repairs.
After much online shopping I found US Composites to be the best prices and selection; http://www.shopmaninc.com/index.html
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Prep is important on this step. Wetting out such a large area could be messy, and I don't want resin on my hull primer or the finished paint on the rub-rail.
I did a QA check with the sander on all the filler I put in the blister pockets. Good thing I did, I found areas that needed more attention. A fair pocket of filler will be feathered around the circumference of the repair and the filler will be translucent. You can clearly see the darker area of filler in the shape of the pocket itself. If you close your eyes a glide your finger tips over it you'll feel no edges or changes in shape, just a smooth plane. This method is even more effective with water.
I blew down with compressed air and dusted again with a clean rag, then washed down with acetone (I'm almost out of lacquer thinner). I taped a line up the center of the hull, the edge of the tape on center favoring the starboard side. I also taped on the inside edge of the keel pocket and hanger pocket. If resin drips down in there it not a big deal but just a pain to sand out later by hand.
Following all that I taped off the boot stripe and then covered the starboard side with plastic. I did all this work outside because it made it much quicker to move on all sides of the hull. It was close to 78 degrees at 4pm, so I rolled it back inside to apply the epoxy. I forgot to take a pic of how the cloth was laying on the hull and trimmed before I wet it out.
I did a QA check with the sander on all the filler I put in the blister pockets. Good thing I did, I found areas that needed more attention. A fair pocket of filler will be feathered around the circumference of the repair and the filler will be translucent. You can clearly see the darker area of filler in the shape of the pocket itself. If you close your eyes a glide your finger tips over it you'll feel no edges or changes in shape, just a smooth plane. This method is even more effective with water.
I blew down with compressed air and dusted again with a clean rag, then washed down with acetone (I'm almost out of lacquer thinner). I taped a line up the center of the hull, the edge of the tape on center favoring the starboard side. I also taped on the inside edge of the keel pocket and hanger pocket. If resin drips down in there it not a big deal but just a pain to sand out later by hand.
Following all that I taped off the boot stripe and then covered the starboard side with plastic. I did all this work outside because it made it much quicker to move on all sides of the hull. It was close to 78 degrees at 4pm, so I rolled it back inside to apply the epoxy. I forgot to take a pic of how the cloth was laying on the hull and trimmed before I wet it out.
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I used 206 slow hardener for the wet out, no way I was using fast cure on this. I applied the epoxy and worked it into the cloth using a plastic spreader. I had a foam roller on hand but it was not effective at wetting out the cloth, however it was great for rolling back over the area to pick up and smooth out wet edges of resin left by the spreader. I worked in batches of 12 pumps, I ended up using 4 batches up to the bow where the last batch was 6 pumps and I had about 3 oz left over. Its important to work in small batches to control the liquid and work it into the cloth quickly. Much easier on the flatter areas of the hull, but you can get in trouble fast on steep areas at the bow and along the water-line.
Here is the starboard side after wet out. It was pretty warm, even out of the sun in the shop it was probably 74 degrees. The hull was also baking in the sun while I was at work so it was quite warm too. I think it took me about 30 to 40 minutes to mix batches and work from stern to bow.
Here is the starboard side after wet out. It was pretty warm, even out of the sun in the shop it was probably 74 degrees. The hull was also baking in the sun while I was at work so it was quite warm too. I think it took me about 30 to 40 minutes to mix batches and work from stern to bow.
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Question for those who know fiberglass and paint
I wanted to solicit opinions on this because I don't want to make any mistakes at this point, no way I want to re-do any part of this job!
This 8.9 oz glass is showing its pattern pretty tall through the cured resin. I'll do my amine blush scrub down and then sand with 80 grit to prep for paint but I'm sure that pattern will still show through.
I figure the planned 4 coats of Interprotect 2000 will cover the glass pattern by the last coat but I don't want to take any chances. If I go after it with 80 grit on the orbital until its totally smooth I will actually be cutting into the fibers way too much. So I figure a skim coat of fairing filler over the entire hull. I'll mix it somewhat thin (no peanut butter), just enough so that it stays put in a thin coating but retains its self leveling ability.
Am on the right track with this method? I've never used this heavy weight of a cloth on the outermost layer of a hull before so I've not had to deal with painting over it.
I wanted to solicit opinions on this because I don't want to make any mistakes at this point, no way I want to re-do any part of this job!
This 8.9 oz glass is showing its pattern pretty tall through the cured resin. I'll do my amine blush scrub down and then sand with 80 grit to prep for paint but I'm sure that pattern will still show through.
I figure the planned 4 coats of Interprotect 2000 will cover the glass pattern by the last coat but I don't want to take any chances. If I go after it with 80 grit on the orbital until its totally smooth I will actually be cutting into the fibers way too much. So I figure a skim coat of fairing filler over the entire hull. I'll mix it somewhat thin (no peanut butter), just enough so that it stays put in a thin coating but retains its self leveling ability.
Am on the right track with this method? I've never used this heavy weight of a cloth on the outermost layer of a hull before so I've not had to deal with painting over it.
Luke looking great, I buy all my glass, epoxy, supplies from USC also. Stuff works great for me, used it on a floor replacement for my maxum21. I think you are doing it the right way from all I have read. I was the one who asked where you placed your spacers on your keel. My kit did not come with instructions but there was one left on my keel before I stripped it down and I believe it was in the same place that you put yours so that it where I will put the new spacers.
I wouldn't do that! Mine are not right and I have already belt sanded one off. I found a better place to put them using the model I made. I'll take more pics of the model this weekend and post them. If they go at the top where mine are the keel won't even go down all the way without over flexing or possibly cracking the keel pocket!
My Mom was born and raised in Mobile. I spent many years if my childhood there with my Nanaw while my dad was in the Navy and Deployed.
Luke I measured my keel pocket and it is wider than you said yours is I will have to check its been a while, but before I glue them I will check and recheck the pocket. maybe its the year difference mine is an 84 don't know for sure. if they are different?
that is the way that I prep glass for finishing... thicken up some epoxy to gel/thick gel consistency and squeegee on in a skim layer then lightly sand that down. from that point forward the paint should be able to fill the rest
I just finished it for the most part. Its about 85 and the sun is blasting today. I rolled the cradle into the garage to lay the port side glass down. Even using slow cure hardener it kicked off pretty quick. Interlux and West Systems tech support both recommended just one rolled coat of un-thickened epoxy would fill the weave, so I did it right away when the epoxy was still only a little tacky. On the forward third of the hull at the bow I used a 3 three inch brush to tip it after I laid it down with a spreader, that area looks good to go. The rest where I just rolled it I wish I had thickened it a little. Big waste of epoxy! When it is thickened a much smaller amount of epoxy covers a much larger area. Oh well, it is baking in the sun right now and already dry to the touch. I should be able to pull all the plastic and edge tape and sand with 80 grit tonight before it gets dark and I'll see how much weave I will have to fill. All of this today plus laying the first half of glass yesterday has burned through another 2/3 gallon of epoxy.
Blister repair complete... ughhh...
The 8.9 oz layer of fiberglass is done on both sides, mostly sanded with some light fairing in a few places. There are just a few shiny spots here and there so I will be doing some QA sanding tomorrow after work. I don't want to see any shiny spots sparking in the sun before I begin rolling on the Interprotect 2000 coats.
Looking back, it has been about 40 days since I finished sanding off the old bottom paint and was going to start the new barrier coat before I came to the conclusion that I needed to address the blisters. I guess it was worth it since I would really be mad in the future if the blisters reformed. On the other hand I would probably have finished all the paint and have her flipped back over now, keel re-installed and back on the trailer. At this point I'm kind of thinking I may miss most of the summer sailing while I am still working on this resto/re-manufacture. By quick math in my head I think I have about an additional $600 into materials (resin/hardener/glass cloth) and consumables (tape, rollers, plastic pales, brushes, etc). That cuts deep, I am trying to refrain from spending a fortune and save the money for much needed hardware and running rigging. Sigh.
The 8.9 oz layer of fiberglass is done on both sides, mostly sanded with some light fairing in a few places. There are just a few shiny spots here and there so I will be doing some QA sanding tomorrow after work. I don't want to see any shiny spots sparking in the sun before I begin rolling on the Interprotect 2000 coats.
Looking back, it has been about 40 days since I finished sanding off the old bottom paint and was going to start the new barrier coat before I came to the conclusion that I needed to address the blisters. I guess it was worth it since I would really be mad in the future if the blisters reformed. On the other hand I would probably have finished all the paint and have her flipped back over now, keel re-installed and back on the trailer. At this point I'm kind of thinking I may miss most of the summer sailing while I am still working on this resto/re-manufacture. By quick math in my head I think I have about an additional $600 into materials (resin/hardener/glass cloth) and consumables (tape, rollers, plastic pales, brushes, etc). That cuts deep, I am trying to refrain from spending a fortune and save the money for much needed hardware and running rigging. Sigh.
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Luke , you are doing it the right way and it looks great, plus you know that it will last besides increasing the value.
Hey Luke,
I think you know that the satisfaction of doing a job right is simply priceless. Your boat is coming along very nicely, and quickly too, if you wanted to use mine as a comparison!
These projects always take more time and money than expected. But think about it, how many people outside of this forum/community, do you know that would even attempt what we are doing? This is a unique thing to restore an old sailboat, and I for one, am looking forward to showing off my "brand new, 40 year old boat!"
Keep up the good work!
Jerry
I think you know that the satisfaction of doing a job right is simply priceless. Your boat is coming along very nicely, and quickly too, if you wanted to use mine as a comparison!
These projects always take more time and money than expected. But think about it, how many people outside of this forum/community, do you know that would even attempt what we are doing? This is a unique thing to restore an old sailboat, and I for one, am looking forward to showing off my "brand new, 40 year old boat!"
Keep up the good work!
Jerry