Yanmar 3GM30F: Wiring Harness & Aftermarket Panel

[Clutch Cargo]

I have DOM 1993 Yanmar 3GM30F in my boat and the engine runs fine with the exception of the ubiquitous and occasional "click" starting problem. However, a few weeks ago, I could not get it started (the solenoid is extremely difficult to access) and have decided to tackle this matter during the winter. In the interim, I did clean the engine ground, the hot side of the solenoid and any other connections that were accessible.

My winter work plan is as follows:

1. Improve accessibility by creating a removable panel in the port side engine compartment bulkhead.
2. Replace the starter solenoid. This was a repower, and the one currently installed looks to be for a right-side mounted starter. The ground tab is inboard against the block and virtually impossible to get at.
3. Replace the wiring harness and panel. Both are original and the latter was a pretty ratty install. it is not recessed and I've bent the key on more than one occasion. Also the tachometer only works sporadically.

My question for the group is regarding the panel. Has anyone purchased an aftermarket one from AC DC marine in California? They seem to be very good to work with and will modify one of their standard panels to meet my needs. I am concerned because one of the things I've learned is that the resistance provide by the incandescent "charge" bulb on the panel is related to field excitation on the alternator. Does anyone know any more about this? The new panel will obviously not have any incandescent bulbs.

 

[kloudie1]

No comment on the alternator field and regulator.... just reference, this is a picture of the OEM solenoid just below the air filter housing.
.

 

[Clutch Cargo]

No comment on the alternator field and regulator.... just reference, this is a picture of the OEM solenoid just below the air filter housing.

Thanks for the prompt reply. Mine is the similar except as mentioned, the terminal for the white wire from the starter button is on the opposite side facing the block, and there is no way for me to get a screwdriver in there. Now it could be that I can just remove the starter and rotate the solenoid 180 degrees. This coming week I'll consult with some Yanmar guys I know.

 

[Ralph Johnstone]

I understand your need to replace the ratty panel but the one thing I can't agree with is :

2. Replace the starter solenoid.

From what you describe with your problm with the starter motor being reluctant to start cranking when you push the button, this is the simplest and most inexpensive thing you could do for a 100% solution to the problem :

Now you only need to pass 0.69A through the whonky harness as opposed to around 18A to the starter motor.

 

[Clutch Cargo]

Thank you Ralph for your reply. Yes, I've read many posts articles etc. regarding changing the starting circuit, and largely agree with you. My problem is primarily one of access and real estate. Putting a 3GM30F in an O'day 28 is just like the proverbial 10 pounds of excrement in a 5 pound bag. A 2GM20F would've been sufficient, but it's a little late now. I may PM you regarding your layout. Thanks much.

 

[Ralph Johnstone]

Putting a 3GM30F in an O'day 28 is just like the proverbial 10 pounds of excrement in a 5 pound bag.

An excellent design concept . I've used it several times on the boat.

What could be neater ?

 

[kloudie1]

The question is whether the LED will allow enough current to activate (excite) the field. My guess is no, but I really don't know. Try calling the panel guys to see how they deal with that.. They may simply use one incandescent to accomplish that task or they may use a resistor...They've probably dealt with that before.. Good luck!