I'm sure this is old hat to most of you but I have never replaced a raw water pump. It is pretty straight forward but I need help about what type of connectors since it is a straight wired pump. The old one doesn't look too professional so please offer your advice. Thanks.
Wiring Connectors...
- Thread starter SailFysh
- Start date
I use wire nuts even though most mariners say no. My experience says to oil wire ends, fill nut with grease and twist her on! Use only inside though.
Chief
Chief
You will fail an insurance survey, if the surveyor is actually competent, by using wire nuts, and should..
Yep, I second the motion for Crimpable, Heat Seal Butt Splices...couldn't be easier and offer protection (if heated and shrunk properly) even under water, like in the bilge.
One of the most important things you can do for your new installation is to use PLENTY of wire and make a big loop. Why? 'Cuz the other day we were contemplating a replacement of our fresh water domestic pump under our galley sink. The OEM wiring was pretty tight, and the butt connectors were almost impossible to get to. Sure, I would have cut the wire off closer to access, but then I'd have two butt splices where only one would be required.
Plan ahead for the NEXT time, so it ain't so hard to do.
Plan ahead for the NEXT time, so it ain't so hard to do.
I'm a belt and suspenders guy.
I'd coat those heat shrink connectors with plastic dip. (liquid electric tape).
-does any one recommend soldering the wires?
And buy a decent ratcheting crimper.
And no on the soldering, although when in Naval air, (long long ago
) I did a lot of soldering of wires in the old AD Skywarriors
And no on the soldering, although when in Naval air, (long long ago
) I did a lot of soldering of wires in the old AD Skywarriors
i only use them to seal my sealant tubes....just don't trust them on a boat ....hell i don't even use them on boat trailer lights .....
Thanks all. Install and prime the pump? Never primed the old one so not sure about that either. It is a march pump. Centrifugal mag. I guess just make sure it has water coming in to the inlet hose from the seacock and turn it on...
March pumps are not self-priming. That's why the installations I have seen are below the waterline. But you can still get air in the inlet hose when you haul out, or in your case, when you install a new pump. What I did was to slip the raw water inlet hose off the nipple of the pump, open the seacock, and then push the hose back on the pump. It's not good for the pump to be run dry for long.
Unless Maine Sail, kicks my azz, I have ordered these to use with a heat gun.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KU0V586/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I was taught to mechanically connect the two wires first, then solder, and heat shrink.
It may be a bit "overkill" but I agree with MrBill_FLL to dip too.
Jim...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KU0V586/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I was taught to mechanically connect the two wires first, then solder, and heat shrink.
It may be a bit "overkill" but I agree with MrBill_FLL to dip too.
Jim...
ABYC says no soldering - use crimp connectors. And avoid taping them - they have to be visible so you can see if there is corrosion.
My favourite "connector story" was on my Catalina 36, which was a charter boat when I bought it. It was obvious a lot of users complained about the batteries not getting charged, and the Charter company did a lot of quick fixes: bigger alternator (not properly lined up), bigger house battery... I had a look at the wiring. The charging wire (about 14 Ga) went from the alternator through a connector to another connector at the control panel, through an ammeter, and back through the two connectors.
Guess what? One of the connectors was so corroded there was about a 1/8" gap the current had to jump across to get through! I replaced the whole wiring with #2 welding cable, through an ammeter on the DC panel (with properly-done connectors!) and to the battery switch. Charging current went from 5 A to over 30 A.
I don't understand why boat companies try to save $20 on wiring on a $150K boat.
druid
My favourite "connector story" was on my Catalina 36, which was a charter boat when I bought it. It was obvious a lot of users complained about the batteries not getting charged, and the Charter company did a lot of quick fixes: bigger alternator (not properly lined up), bigger house battery... I had a look at the wiring. The charging wire (about 14 Ga) went from the alternator through a connector to another connector at the control panel, through an ammeter, and back through the two connectors.
Guess what? One of the connectors was so corroded there was about a 1/8" gap the current had to jump across to get through! I replaced the whole wiring with #2 welding cable, through an ammeter on the DC panel (with properly-done connectors!) and to the battery switch. Charging current went from 5 A to over 30 A.
I don't understand why boat companies try to save $20 on wiring on a $150K boat.
druid
Well since I have a copy of at least 2003 E-11 ABYC, because of Maine Sail
, I will not give an opinion but let you read the section of the discussion on to solder or not to solder.But...
which if twisted together properly works and/or, as Maine pointed out... properly crimped.
Jim...
PS: Woodster, I ain't rubbing my azz or
yet.
Mainsail covered this, and yet we go on and on.
Even the USCG bans wire nuts outside a waterproof enclosure. The answer is simply NO.
Heat shrink IS the belt and suspenders. Properly crimped, a butt connector will not fail, even under water for years. The concern is stray current; make certain the connection is not in the water (the bilge should be dry, but that is another topic).
Twisted together and soldered does not meet the code. That is not a mechanical connection in this age.
----
Why even consider any of this Mickey Mouse stuff when even Home Depot sells everything you need to do the job correctly? Ever had a fire on board because of faulty wiring? I did (PO short cut twisting wires together, yes I was offshore). It will get your blood pumping since there is no place to go. Is that something you want to do to the next owner? If you can't do it right, just don't do it.
Even the USCG bans wire nuts outside a waterproof enclosure. The answer is simply NO.
Heat shrink IS the belt and suspenders. Properly crimped, a butt connector will not fail, even under water for years. The concern is stray current; make certain the connection is not in the water (the bilge should be dry, but that is another topic).
Twisted together and soldered does not meet the code. That is not a mechanical connection in this age.
----
Why even consider any of this Mickey Mouse stuff when even Home Depot sells everything you need to do the job correctly? Ever had a fire on board because of faulty wiring? I did (PO short cut twisting wires together, yes I was offshore). It will get your blood pumping since there is no place to go. Is that something you want to do to the next owner? If you can't do it right, just don't do it.
that would be a bell splice for sure ....which if twisted together properly works and/or, as Maine pointed out... properly crimped.
Jim...
if you do a bell splice and solder at the proper heat and alloy ..... then cover with transparent heat shrink you should be good to go ....but i find it a lot easier to butt connect and heat shrink when in the water than solder